Jaager

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Member's Build Logs
Build Logs for SHIP MODEL KITS
Pinned  18th century English Longboat - by Chuck - c.1760
 
Your very kit - as done by the developer of the kit -

Look higher up in the forum:
 
Member's Build Logs
Build Logs for SHIP MODEL KITS
Pinned  18th century English Longboat - by Chuck - c.1760
 
Your very kit - as done by the developer of the kit -

Tom, if you use it a lot, with the Byrnes, you will make up the difference in sanding media cost in short order.   WoodCraft has cloth backed media - wide variety of grits - sold by the yard - I have only paid attention to the 4" Klingspor, but they have Norton 3".  Also, get the gum rubber shoe sole - sandpaper cleaning stick. Unclogs the grit.

Apple -
For me - I would have it cut into 1"- 1 1/2 " slabs.  Seal any cut ends - including branch knots -  Parafin works, but so does a couple of thick coats of left over latex paint.  Stack it somewhere protected - unheated attic works.  Sticker the slabs  = separate the slabs with 1/4 x 1/4 to 1/2 x 1/2 inch sticks to allow good air circulation around the whole plank.  Should be dry in 12-18 months.  If I was in a hurry, I would put my home made kiln back together and it would probably be dry in 2-3 months.   All it is-  a box made from foil faced 1 inch house foam insulating sheathing - heat source  200-300 W of incandescent light bulbs -  their output is mostly IR- heat -  and a surplus computer cooling fan to suck the water vapor out - Amazon has low cost fans - the tricky part for me - matching up the proper DC power supply.   Nothing industrial - I just wanted the environment to be hotter than Blue Mold would like - since I was drying green Holly.  Apple can be subject to fungus attack.   The difference is that Blue Mold just discolors the wood - it is still just as strong - might even work as a Sun bleached decking material - for a deck that had not been holystoned,   while the fungus that goes after Apple rots the wood.
 
Congrats on finding the wood.  Make sure you get enough.
 
I do not have a jointer or a planer.  Way back when, I tried to make do with a table saw - it worked to a point - would not buy one now -  I discovered that a big band saw is better, more efficient and safer.  I have a thickness sander that I made myself - at the time - the only way to have one.  Now I would get a Byrnes thickness sander.  An edger would be nice, but I made my own drum sanding table and added a fence to use it as an edger - the main problem is that I use a 1/6 HP motor - it is not powerful enough to take off much wood at a pass - it is fine for sanding frames - but 1-1.5 inch thick billet 16 inches long is a lot of work.

Apple -
For me - I would have it cut into 1"- 1 1/2 " slabs.  Seal any cut ends - including branch knots -  Parafin works, but so does a couple of thick coats of left over latex paint.  Stack it somewhere protected - unheated attic works.  Sticker the slabs  = separate the slabs with 1/4 x 1/4 to 1/2 x 1/2 inch sticks to allow good air circulation around the whole plank.  Should be dry in 12-18 months.  If I was in a hurry, I would put my home made kiln back together and it would probably be dry in 2-3 months.   All it is-  a box made from foil faced 1 inch house foam insulating sheathing - heat source  200-300 W of incandescent light bulbs -  their output is mostly IR- heat -  and a surplus computer cooling fan to suck the water vapor out - Amazon has low cost fans - the tricky part for me - matching up the proper DC power supply.   Nothing industrial - I just wanted the environment to be hotter than Blue Mold would like - since I was drying green Holly.  Apple can be subject to fungus attack.   The difference is that Blue Mold just discolors the wood - it is still just as strong - might even work as a Sun bleached decking material - for a deck that had not been holystoned,   while the fungus that goes after Apple rots the wood.
 
Congrats on finding the wood.  Make sure you get enough.
 
I do not have a jointer or a planer.  Way back when, I tried to make do with a table saw - it worked to a point - would not buy one now -  I discovered that a big band saw is better, more efficient and safer.  I have a thickness sander that I made myself - at the time - the only way to have one.  Now I would get a Byrnes thickness sander.  An edger would be nice, but I made my own drum sanding table and added a fence to use it as an edger - the main problem is that I use a 1/6 HP motor - it is not powerful enough to take off much wood at a pass - it is fine for sanding frames - but 1-1.5 inch thick billet 16 inches long is a lot of work.

Apple -
For me - I would have it cut into 1"- 1 1/2 " slabs.  Seal any cut ends - including branch knots -  Parafin works, but so does a couple of thick coats of left over latex paint.  Stack it somewhere protected - unheated attic works.  Sticker the slabs  = separate the slabs with 1/4 x 1/4 to 1/2 x 1/2 inch sticks to allow good air circulation around the whole plank.  Should be dry in 12-18 months.  If I was in a hurry, I would put my home made kiln back together and it would probably be dry in 2-3 months.   All it is-  a box made from foil faced 1 inch house foam insulating sheathing - heat source  200-300 W of incandescent light bulbs -  their output is mostly IR- heat -  and a surplus computer cooling fan to suck the water vapor out - Amazon has low cost fans - the tricky part for me - matching up the proper DC power supply.   Nothing industrial - I just wanted the environment to be hotter than Blue Mold would like - since I was drying green Holly.  Apple can be subject to fungus attack.   The difference is that Blue Mold just discolors the wood - it is still just as strong - might even work as a Sun bleached decking material - for a deck that had not been holystoned,   while the fungus that goes after Apple rots the wood.
 
Congrats on finding the wood.  Make sure you get enough.
 
I do not have a jointer or a planer.  Way back when, I tried to make do with a table saw - it worked to a point - would not buy one now -  I discovered that a big band saw is better, more efficient and safer.  I have a thickness sander that I made myself - at the time - the only way to have one.  Now I would get a Byrnes thickness sander.  An edger would be nice, but I made my own drum sanding table and added a fence to use it as an edger - the main problem is that I use a 1/6 HP motor - it is not powerful enough to take off much wood at a pass - it is fine for sanding frames - but 1-1.5 inch thick billet 16 inches long is a lot of work.

Because this is your first adventure with POF,  I second Grsjax.  Hard Maple is fairly close to Boxwood in hardness and will serve quite well for framing timbers, beams, breast hooks,  keelson, clamps, .....  It is at the lower end as far as cost - redoing mistakes will not break the bank and should be  available from a local hardwood supplier --  Black Cherry will also work for most everything - where you want contrast - I just would not use it for deck planking as it is sorta at the wrong end as far as color.  Also available from local hardwood -  just checked - I take it that everything is close in RI-  Dwyer Hardwoods, L.Sweet Lumber, and a jackpot- RI Sawmill -  kiln dried  Hard Maple ( I dislike Soft Maple ) Cherry, Poplar,  Pear ( if you can believe it ),  Mulberry ( I don't know what it is like, but I have some firewood pieces drying to try it out,  and what to me is the king- Apple - can be a beautiful wood, works like a charm, bends, is strong..
 
As far as Mayflower-  it is from the end of the 16th or early 17th C.   I believe that the framing would have been similar to Admiralty/Dockyard - the actual Admiralty style - not what some here call Admiralty.  The space is within the frame - not beside it - there is a solid band of solid timber running fore and aft where the floor overlaps the 1st futtock and 1st futtock  overlaps the 2nd, etc.   The models were very stylized versions of actual practice.  It evolved from having the outside planking first and adding the timbers to hold and strengthen. By this stage, the floors would go first, then planked to the head (end). The 1st futtock then mounted between the floors and planked to its head.  etc.   In this case, the scarf would be the side-side mating - not end to end.  In actual practice the scarfs may have had chocks in between rather than actually touching - the wood did not need to be precisely sided  and it allowed for air circulation to reduce rot.  The point being- the actual ships were probably much less attractively framed than what the models show.

Apple -
For me - I would have it cut into 1"- 1 1/2 " slabs.  Seal any cut ends - including branch knots -  Parafin works, but so does a couple of thick coats of left over latex paint.  Stack it somewhere protected - unheated attic works.  Sticker the slabs  = separate the slabs with 1/4 x 1/4 to 1/2 x 1/2 inch sticks to allow good air circulation around the whole plank.  Should be dry in 12-18 months.  If I was in a hurry, I would put my home made kiln back together and it would probably be dry in 2-3 months.   All it is-  a box made from foil faced 1 inch house foam insulating sheathing - heat source  200-300 W of incandescent light bulbs -  their output is mostly IR- heat -  and a surplus computer cooling fan to suck the water vapor out - Amazon has low cost fans - the tricky part for me - matching up the proper DC power supply.   Nothing industrial - I just wanted the environment to be hotter than Blue Mold would like - since I was drying green Holly.  Apple can be subject to fungus attack.   The difference is that Blue Mold just discolors the wood - it is still just as strong - might even work as a Sun bleached decking material - for a deck that had not been holystoned,   while the fungus that goes after Apple rots the wood.
 
Congrats on finding the wood.  Make sure you get enough.
 
I do not have a jointer or a planer.  Way back when, I tried to make do with a table saw - it worked to a point - would not buy one now -  I discovered that a big band saw is better, more efficient and safer.  I have a thickness sander that I made myself - at the time - the only way to have one.  Now I would get a Byrnes thickness sander.  An edger would be nice, but I made my own drum sanding table and added a fence to use it as an edger - the main problem is that I use a 1/6 HP motor - it is not powerful enough to take off much wood at a pass - it is fine for sanding frames - but 1-1.5 inch thick billet 16 inches long is a lot of work.

Apple -
For me - I would have it cut into 1"- 1 1/2 " slabs.  Seal any cut ends - including branch knots -  Parafin works, but so does a couple of thick coats of left over latex paint.  Stack it somewhere protected - unheated attic works.  Sticker the slabs  = separate the slabs with 1/4 x 1/4 to 1/2 x 1/2 inch sticks to allow good air circulation around the whole plank.  Should be dry in 12-18 months.  If I was in a hurry, I would put my home made kiln back together and it would probably be dry in 2-3 months.   All it is-  a box made from foil faced 1 inch house foam insulating sheathing - heat source  200-300 W of incandescent light bulbs -  their output is mostly IR- heat -  and a surplus computer cooling fan to suck the water vapor out - Amazon has low cost fans - the tricky part for me - matching up the proper DC power supply.   Nothing industrial - I just wanted the environment to be hotter than Blue Mold would like - since I was drying green Holly.  Apple can be subject to fungus attack.   The difference is that Blue Mold just discolors the wood - it is still just as strong - might even work as a Sun bleached decking material - for a deck that had not been holystoned,   while the fungus that goes after Apple rots the wood.
 
Congrats on finding the wood.  Make sure you get enough.
 
I do not have a jointer or a planer.  Way back when, I tried to make do with a table saw - it worked to a point - would not buy one now -  I discovered that a big band saw is better, more efficient and safer.  I have a thickness sander that I made myself - at the time - the only way to have one.  Now I would get a Byrnes thickness sander.  An edger would be nice, but I made my own drum sanding table and added a fence to use it as an edger - the main problem is that I use a 1/6 HP motor - it is not powerful enough to take off much wood at a pass - it is fine for sanding frames - but 1-1.5 inch thick billet 16 inches long is a lot of work.

Because this is your first adventure with POF,  I second Grsjax.  Hard Maple is fairly close to Boxwood in hardness and will serve quite well for framing timbers, beams, breast hooks,  keelson, clamps, .....  It is at the lower end as far as cost - redoing mistakes will not break the bank and should be  available from a local hardwood supplier --  Black Cherry will also work for most everything - where you want contrast - I just would not use it for deck planking as it is sorta at the wrong end as far as color.  Also available from local hardwood -  just checked - I take it that everything is close in RI-  Dwyer Hardwoods, L.Sweet Lumber, and a jackpot- RI Sawmill -  kiln dried  Hard Maple ( I dislike Soft Maple ) Cherry, Poplar,  Pear ( if you can believe it ),  Mulberry ( I don't know what it is like, but I have some firewood pieces drying to try it out,  and what to me is the king- Apple - can be a beautiful wood, works like a charm, bends, is strong..
 
As far as Mayflower-  it is from the end of the 16th or early 17th C.   I believe that the framing would have been similar to Admiralty/Dockyard - the actual Admiralty style - not what some here call Admiralty.  The space is within the frame - not beside it - there is a solid band of solid timber running fore and aft where the floor overlaps the 1st futtock and 1st futtock  overlaps the 2nd, etc.   The models were very stylized versions of actual practice.  It evolved from having the outside planking first and adding the timbers to hold and strengthen. By this stage, the floors would go first, then planked to the head (end). The 1st futtock then mounted between the floors and planked to its head.  etc.   In this case, the scarf would be the side-side mating - not end to end.  In actual practice the scarfs may have had chocks in between rather than actually touching - the wood did not need to be precisely sided  and it allowed for air circulation to reduce rot.  The point being- the actual ships were probably much less attractively framed than what the models show.

Tom, if you use it a lot, with the Byrnes, you will make up the difference in sanding media cost in short order.   WoodCraft has cloth backed media - wide variety of grits - sold by the yard - I have only paid attention to the 4" Klingspor, but they have Norton 3".  Also, get the gum rubber shoe sole - sandpaper cleaning stick. Unclogs the grit.

Are you sure you want to use cypress?  You might be happier using Hard Maple.  It is more work for a cutting edge and a disk sander or table saw will burn the face if you are too aggressive.  But it takes more work to overdo a cut, is much stronger,  has a wonderful surface to finish and does not move so much with humidity changes.

Tom, if you use it a lot, with the Byrnes, you will make up the difference in sanding media cost in short order.   WoodCraft has cloth backed media - wide variety of grits - sold by the yard - I have only paid attention to the 4" Klingspor, but they have Norton 3".  Also, get the gum rubber shoe sole - sandpaper cleaning stick. Unclogs the grit.

Tom, if you use it a lot, with the Byrnes, you will make up the difference in sanding media cost in short order.   WoodCraft has cloth backed media - wide variety of grits - sold by the yard - I have only paid attention to the 4" Klingspor, but they have Norton 3".  Also, get the gum rubber shoe sole - sandpaper cleaning stick. Unclogs the grit.

Because this is your first adventure with POF,  I second Grsjax.  Hard Maple is fairly close to Boxwood in hardness and will serve quite well for framing timbers, beams, breast hooks,  keelson, clamps, .....  It is at the lower end as far as cost - redoing mistakes will not break the bank and should be  available from a local hardwood supplier --  Black Cherry will also work for most everything - where you want contrast - I just would not use it for deck planking as it is sorta at the wrong end as far as color.  Also available from local hardwood -  just checked - I take it that everything is close in RI-  Dwyer Hardwoods, L.Sweet Lumber, and a jackpot- RI Sawmill -  kiln dried  Hard Maple ( I dislike Soft Maple ) Cherry, Poplar,  Pear ( if you can believe it ),  Mulberry ( I don't know what it is like, but I have some firewood pieces drying to try it out,  and what to me is the king- Apple - can be a beautiful wood, works like a charm, bends, is strong..
 
As far as Mayflower-  it is from the end of the 16th or early 17th C.   I believe that the framing would have been similar to Admiralty/Dockyard - the actual Admiralty style - not what some here call Admiralty.  The space is within the frame - not beside it - there is a solid band of solid timber running fore and aft where the floor overlaps the 1st futtock and 1st futtock  overlaps the 2nd, etc.   The models were very stylized versions of actual practice.  It evolved from having the outside planking first and adding the timbers to hold and strengthen. By this stage, the floors would go first, then planked to the head (end). The 1st futtock then mounted between the floors and planked to its head.  etc.   In this case, the scarf would be the side-side mating - not end to end.  In actual practice the scarfs may have had chocks in between rather than actually touching - the wood did not need to be precisely sided  and it allowed for air circulation to reduce rot.  The point being- the actual ships were probably much less attractively framed than what the models show.

Because this is your first adventure with POF,  I second Grsjax.  Hard Maple is fairly close to Boxwood in hardness and will serve quite well for framing timbers, beams, breast hooks,  keelson, clamps, .....  It is at the lower end as far as cost - redoing mistakes will not break the bank and should be  available from a local hardwood supplier --  Black Cherry will also work for most everything - where you want contrast - I just would not use it for deck planking as it is sorta at the wrong end as far as color.  Also available from local hardwood -  just checked - I take it that everything is close in RI-  Dwyer Hardwoods, L.Sweet Lumber, and a jackpot- RI Sawmill -  kiln dried  Hard Maple ( I dislike Soft Maple ) Cherry, Poplar,  Pear ( if you can believe it ),  Mulberry ( I don't know what it is like, but I have some firewood pieces drying to try it out,  and what to me is the king- Apple - can be a beautiful wood, works like a charm, bends, is strong..
 
As far as Mayflower-  it is from the end of the 16th or early 17th C.   I believe that the framing would have been similar to Admiralty/Dockyard - the actual Admiralty style - not what some here call Admiralty.  The space is within the frame - not beside it - there is a solid band of solid timber running fore and aft where the floor overlaps the 1st futtock and 1st futtock  overlaps the 2nd, etc.   The models were very stylized versions of actual practice.  It evolved from having the outside planking first and adding the timbers to hold and strengthen. By this stage, the floors would go first, then planked to the head (end). The 1st futtock then mounted between the floors and planked to its head.  etc.   In this case, the scarf would be the side-side mating - not end to end.  In actual practice the scarfs may have had chocks in between rather than actually touching - the wood did not need to be precisely sided  and it allowed for air circulation to reduce rot.  The point being- the actual ships were probably much less attractively framed than what the models show.

Because this is your first adventure with POF,  I second Grsjax.  Hard Maple is fairly close to Boxwood in hardness and will serve quite well for framing timbers, beams, breast hooks,  keelson, clamps, .....  It is at the lower end as far as cost - redoing mistakes will not break the bank and should be  available from a local hardwood supplier --  Black Cherry will also work for most everything - where you want contrast - I just would not use it for deck planking as it is sorta at the wrong end as far as color.  Also available from local hardwood -  just checked - I take it that everything is close in RI-  Dwyer Hardwoods, L.Sweet Lumber, and a jackpot- RI Sawmill -  kiln dried  Hard Maple ( I dislike Soft Maple ) Cherry, Poplar,  Pear ( if you can believe it ),  Mulberry ( I don't know what it is like, but I have some firewood pieces drying to try it out,  and what to me is the king- Apple - can be a beautiful wood, works like a charm, bends, is strong..
 
As far as Mayflower-  it is from the end of the 16th or early 17th C.   I believe that the framing would have been similar to Admiralty/Dockyard - the actual Admiralty style - not what some here call Admiralty.  The space is within the frame - not beside it - there is a solid band of solid timber running fore and aft where the floor overlaps the 1st futtock and 1st futtock  overlaps the 2nd, etc.   The models were very stylized versions of actual practice.  It evolved from having the outside planking first and adding the timbers to hold and strengthen. By this stage, the floors would go first, then planked to the head (end). The 1st futtock then mounted between the floors and planked to its head.  etc.   In this case, the scarf would be the side-side mating - not end to end.  In actual practice the scarfs may have had chocks in between rather than actually touching - the wood did not need to be precisely sided  and it allowed for air circulation to reduce rot.  The point being- the actual ships were probably much less attractively framed than what the models show.

Sounds like you are pretty well set as far as tools are concerned. 
As far as scratch -POF - the only real difference is the framing and any innards you add below the lowest gun deck.
An easy way to get into scratch is to replace kit components with those you make yourself. 
If you get into heavy duty scratch and find that you want to harvest your own wood -  an economical way would be to
make friends with someone who has a big band saw and use their facilities to get logs, braches and firewood into Byrnes saw sized billets.
All it will cost you is the band saw blades - they are not inexpensive and they break or get dull.  The species of wood that we use is a lot tougher
on saw blades than what the average wood worker will use.
 
The greatest advantage in having the mill and lathe is that they are tools to make other tools. 
Another tool that I use is a small drill press.  The Eurotool DRL 300 works well for me- especially with a generic momentary power foot switch.
The mill will certainly double as a drill press and if you do not use that function all that often, the setup time saved by having a dedicated drill press will not be worth the expense. 
As far as hand drills -  I like the Dremel  Model 8050 Rotary Tool  - especially since they fixed the explode and burn problem.   I just wish it "remembered" the last speed setting.

Is the surface of the actual disk a smooth metal surface?
 
If so, after an adventure with Weldwood contact cement- it holds for sure - but it does so a bit too well - I used Naptha - a thinner/solvent to denature it - then had to scrape to get clean. A last resort choice.
I find that Elmer's or Best Test paper cement holds well enough - just apply a liberal coat to both surfaces and mount the sandpaper when it has dried a bit. It will rub off the metal surface with your thumb - once you peel the paper away.
 
Norton makes sheet sandpaper that holds up --  the 3X has plain paper backing and is excellent --  the 7X and 10X have a coating that is incompatible with both rubber cement and contact cement.   The paper cement actually took the Norton film with it, so perhaps it can be removed with Mineral Spirits - or other paint thinners/solvents and then used  OR  the 10X tends to get sticky from friction heat -  so I may try adhering a disc by laying it flat, putting the metal disk on top and heating up the disk with my heat gun.  My disk is Al so it transfers heat quickly.
WoodCraft has rolls of cloth backed sanding media - I use it on my sanding planer - 4" wide but I am pretty sure it comes wider - probably overkill for a 5" disc sander - but it will hold up.

Is the surface of the actual disk a smooth metal surface?
 
If so, after an adventure with Weldwood contact cement- it holds for sure - but it does so a bit too well - I used Naptha - a thinner/solvent to denature it - then had to scrape to get clean. A last resort choice.
I find that Elmer's or Best Test paper cement holds well enough - just apply a liberal coat to both surfaces and mount the sandpaper when it has dried a bit. It will rub off the metal surface with your thumb - once you peel the paper away.
 
Norton makes sheet sandpaper that holds up --  the 3X has plain paper backing and is excellent --  the 7X and 10X have a coating that is incompatible with both rubber cement and contact cement.   The paper cement actually took the Norton film with it, so perhaps it can be removed with Mineral Spirits - or other paint thinners/solvents and then used  OR  the 10X tends to get sticky from friction heat -  so I may try adhering a disc by laying it flat, putting the metal disk on top and heating up the disk with my heat gun.  My disk is Al so it transfers heat quickly.
WoodCraft has rolls of cloth backed sanding media - I use it on my sanding planer - 4" wide but I am pretty sure it comes wider - probably overkill for a 5" disc sander - but it will hold up.

Is the surface of the actual disk a smooth metal surface?
 
If so, after an adventure with Weldwood contact cement- it holds for sure - but it does so a bit too well - I used Naptha - a thinner/solvent to denature it - then had to scrape to get clean. A last resort choice.
I find that Elmer's or Best Test paper cement holds well enough - just apply a liberal coat to both surfaces and mount the sandpaper when it has dried a bit. It will rub off the metal surface with your thumb - once you peel the paper away.
 
Norton makes sheet sandpaper that holds up --  the 3X has plain paper backing and is excellent --  the 7X and 10X have a coating that is incompatible with both rubber cement and contact cement.   The paper cement actually took the Norton film with it, so perhaps it can be removed with Mineral Spirits - or other paint thinners/solvents and then used  OR  the 10X tends to get sticky from friction heat -  so I may try adhering a disc by laying it flat, putting the metal disk on top and heating up the disk with my heat gun.  My disk is Al so it transfers heat quickly.
WoodCraft has rolls of cloth backed sanding media - I use it on my sanding planer - 4" wide but I am pretty sure it comes wider - probably overkill for a 5" disc sander - but it will hold up.

Two variations to consider:
Because of eye tricks due to scale effect, consider using paper that is at most 1/2 the thickness of the seam at scale.
Use Walnut dye rather than black - a lot of pre petrol tar was not really black and going lighter than black can modify scale effect.

Sounds like you are pretty well set as far as tools are concerned. 
As far as scratch -POF - the only real difference is the framing and any innards you add below the lowest gun deck.
An easy way to get into scratch is to replace kit components with those you make yourself. 
If you get into heavy duty scratch and find that you want to harvest your own wood -  an economical way would be to
make friends with someone who has a big band saw and use their facilities to get logs, braches and firewood into Byrnes saw sized billets.
All it will cost you is the band saw blades - they are not inexpensive and they break or get dull.  The species of wood that we use is a lot tougher
on saw blades than what the average wood worker will use.
 
The greatest advantage in having the mill and lathe is that they are tools to make other tools. 
Another tool that I use is a small drill press.  The Eurotool DRL 300 works well for me- especially with a generic momentary power foot switch.
The mill will certainly double as a drill press and if you do not use that function all that often, the setup time saved by having a dedicated drill press will not be worth the expense. 
As far as hand drills -  I like the Dremel  Model 8050 Rotary Tool  - especially since they fixed the explode and burn problem.   I just wish it "remembered" the last speed setting.

Sounds like you are pretty well set as far as tools are concerned. 
As far as scratch -POF - the only real difference is the framing and any innards you add below the lowest gun deck.
An easy way to get into scratch is to replace kit components with those you make yourself. 
If you get into heavy duty scratch and find that you want to harvest your own wood -  an economical way would be to
make friends with someone who has a big band saw and use their facilities to get logs, braches and firewood into Byrnes saw sized billets.
All it will cost you is the band saw blades - they are not inexpensive and they break or get dull.  The species of wood that we use is a lot tougher
on saw blades than what the average wood worker will use.
 
The greatest advantage in having the mill and lathe is that they are tools to make other tools. 
Another tool that I use is a small drill press.  The Eurotool DRL 300 works well for me- especially with a generic momentary power foot switch.
The mill will certainly double as a drill press and if you do not use that function all that often, the setup time saved by having a dedicated drill press will not be worth the expense. 
As far as hand drills -  I like the Dremel  Model 8050 Rotary Tool  - especially since they fixed the explode and burn problem.   I just wish it "remembered" the last speed setting.

Sounds like you are pretty well set as far as tools are concerned. 
As far as scratch -POF - the only real difference is the framing and any innards you add below the lowest gun deck.
An easy way to get into scratch is to replace kit components with those you make yourself. 
If you get into heavy duty scratch and find that you want to harvest your own wood -  an economical way would be to
make friends with someone who has a big band saw and use their facilities to get logs, braches and firewood into Byrnes saw sized billets.
All it will cost you is the band saw blades - they are not inexpensive and they break or get dull.  The species of wood that we use is a lot tougher
on saw blades than what the average wood worker will use.
 
The greatest advantage in having the mill and lathe is that they are tools to make other tools. 
Another tool that I use is a small drill press.  The Eurotool DRL 300 works well for me- especially with a generic momentary power foot switch.
The mill will certainly double as a drill press and if you do not use that function all that often, the setup time saved by having a dedicated drill press will not be worth the expense. 
As far as hand drills -  I like the Dremel  Model 8050 Rotary Tool  - especially since they fixed the explode and burn problem.   I just wish it "remembered" the last speed setting.