Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Scalpel and tool storage
In a contest, I doubt polystyrene would offer much effect on steel, but actually, it is the handle that contacts the foam in the hole, if you are concerned, use a butter knife, or spoon handle to make the hole.
I keep pencils, Sharpe, 6 inch steel rulers, Dremel bit wrenches, scissors ......
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Scalpel and tool storage
An easy tool storage method = a block of Styrofoam interior insulation, glued to a wooden base. Just stick tools, point down into holes in the block - they are readily available and both you and the tools are protected.
The size - 2 inches thick - 6-8 inches long and 3-4 inches wide, Over here it is pink or blue or off brand - amber.
Home Depot sells small 1 inch thick sheets for "projects". It does not react well to hot glue, but contact cement should do.
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Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in Scalpel and tool storage
An easy tool storage method = a block of Styrofoam interior insulation, glued to a wooden base. Just stick tools, point down into holes in the block - they are readily available and both you and the tools are protected.
The size - 2 inches thick - 6-8 inches long and 3-4 inches wide, Over here it is pink or blue or off brand - amber.
Home Depot sells small 1 inch thick sheets for "projects". It does not react well to hot glue, but contact cement should do.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Long Term Paint Storage
Giving more thought to the bottle seals - cardboard does not seem likely to make that tight a long term complete closure, and plastic may potentially react with or to components in the paint - especially oil based paint. Why not try to go Old School? I am thinking that auto parts dealers may have cork veneer - thin sheets of cork used to make gaskets. Plug disks could be cut and used to seal the paint bottles.
The ultimate would be glass bottles with ground glass plugs. In the Lab, we stored sensitive chemicals inside a large jar, with a wide lid - mating ground glass rims, coated with a silicon grease and a top port that could be connected to a vacuum line and then closed off.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Long Term Paint Storage
A trick recommended for storing Tung oil may work for paint: add marbles, or in this case glass beads to reduce the volume of air in the jar.
Store the bottles in a Mason jar, an open bottle of water in the sealed jar would saturate the environment with water vapor and greatly reduce any loss of water the paint bottles. A similar setup with oil based paint with excess solvent in the jar environment should reduce any tendency for the paint solvent to evaporate.
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Jaager got a reaction from JesseLee in CA for rigging
Ulises,
100/3 , 80/3 , 18/3 are the size of the linen in an old standard termed LEA.
18 is much larger than 100.
It is the yarn size.
Fibers twist into Yarn twist into Thread (or model rope) twist into (for our purposes) Rope.
62/1 is a linen yarn. It is a single unit of twisted plant fibers.
100/3 is a linen thread. It is three 100 yarns twisted into a three strand thread.
Linen is much more coarse than cotton. Most linen yarns are much larger than cotton thread. The 62/1 linen is not much different from a #100 cotton thread.
The whole subject of rope size can be confusing.
Rope is subject to compression, so "micrometering" it does not give reproducible results.
The most common way for us to measure size is to wrap a section of the rope around a dowel (closely packed, but not extreme) and count the number of revolutions in an inch. This gives the rope diameter.
The reference books like Steele have tables of sizes - as rope circumference.
Take our diameter measurement and multiply by pi (3.1416..........) to get the circumference.
I suspect that there are models out there with rigging that is 3 times out of scale.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in scroll saw choice
I support what Bill says about using a band saw instead of a scroll saw. A bench top 9 inch saw can be had for under $150 US.
With an $80 upgrade by adding a Carter Products Blade Stabilizer, an 1/8" blade will almost do a "wheely" as far as how tight a
curve you can cut. The blades have set, so you must be mindful about how close you cut to the line. The blade only cuts downward,
so there is no up/down vibration on the piece being cut.
I do POF, so there are no inside cuts - any such cuts for components - a hand fret saw will probably do.
A 9 inch band saw will not do saw mill duty and will be limited in how thick resawing stock can be. It is not the tool to turn an Apple log into model scale stock. But for the cost a Hegner, you can get a 9 inch band saw and a 1.5-2 HP floor model band saw and also be a sawmill.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in scroll saw choice
I support what Bill says about using a band saw instead of a scroll saw. A bench top 9 inch saw can be had for under $150 US.
With an $80 upgrade by adding a Carter Products Blade Stabilizer, an 1/8" blade will almost do a "wheely" as far as how tight a
curve you can cut. The blades have set, so you must be mindful about how close you cut to the line. The blade only cuts downward,
so there is no up/down vibration on the piece being cut.
I do POF, so there are no inside cuts - any such cuts for components - a hand fret saw will probably do.
A 9 inch band saw will not do saw mill duty and will be limited in how thick resawing stock can be. It is not the tool to turn an Apple log into model scale stock. But for the cost a Hegner, you can get a 9 inch band saw and a 1.5-2 HP floor model band saw and also be a sawmill.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Any rules re planks between butt joints?
Record of American and Foreign Shipping
of
American Shipmasters' Association
1870 & 1885
Deck Plank
section 25.
The upper or main deck planking should be of the greatest obtainable length,
and free from defects, close-jointed and fastened with two spikes in each beam,
and one in each carling. No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other
than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes the distance of one beam
will be allowed). No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three
strakes between them.
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Jaager got a reaction from model mike in Any rules re planks between butt joints?
Record of American and Foreign Shipping
of
American Shipmasters' Association
1870 & 1885
Deck Plank
section 25.
The upper or main deck planking should be of the greatest obtainable length,
and free from defects, close-jointed and fastened with two spikes in each beam,
and one in each carling. No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other
than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes the distance of one beam
will be allowed). No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three
strakes between them.
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Jaager got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Sovereign of The Seas by SawdustDave - FINISHED
There are 2 relatively recent books about this vessel: authors - James Sephton, 2011 and Hendrick Basmann, 2002.
Before you cut wood, you may wish to check the following:
Possible - about the time that these plans were drawn, there was misunderstanding about hull length.
After about 1700, the given length was that of LBP (length between perpendiculars) with the perpendiculars being where the inside of the scarph at the stempost and sternpost meet the line of the gundeck (or main deck). There were slight variations in nominclature. There was at least one set of plans for a 17th century warship drawn using this to match the published hull length.
Before ~1700, the given length was "touch" ( the portion of the keel assembly that is congruent with the baseline). The stem and sternpost made the actual length longer.
If the published length matches what would be LBP - then the plans have the vessel about 20% too short.
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Jaager got a reaction from reklein in Any rules re planks between butt joints?
Record of American and Foreign Shipping
of
American Shipmasters' Association
1870 & 1885
Deck Plank
section 25.
The upper or main deck planking should be of the greatest obtainable length,
and free from defects, close-jointed and fastened with two spikes in each beam,
and one in each carling. No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other
than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes the distance of one beam
will be allowed). No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three
strakes between them.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Any rules re planks between butt joints?
Record of American and Foreign Shipping
of
American Shipmasters' Association
1870 & 1885
Deck Plank
section 25.
The upper or main deck planking should be of the greatest obtainable length,
and free from defects, close-jointed and fastened with two spikes in each beam,
and one in each carling. No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other
than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes the distance of one beam
will be allowed). No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three
strakes between them.
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Jaager got a reaction from Altduck in Any rules re planks between butt joints?
Record of American and Foreign Shipping
of
American Shipmasters' Association
1870 & 1885
Deck Plank
section 25.
The upper or main deck planking should be of the greatest obtainable length,
and free from defects, close-jointed and fastened with two spikes in each beam,
and one in each carling. No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other
than the space of two beams ( when a strake intervenes the distance of one beam
will be allowed). No butts should meet on the same beam, unless there be three
strakes between them.
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Jaager got a reaction from ScottRC in Heavily decorated ships
You may wish to take a look at these 2 vessels - plans produced and sold by AAMM:
LA COURONNE
LA REALE DE FRANCE
Taubman
these later 17th Century 3 deck vessels
ROYAL KATHERINE
PRINCE
I think these are kit plans, I would verify that the hull is the correct length before I used them.
There was a set of plans where the person drafting the kit plans mistook keel length= touch for keel length= LBP.
generating a vessel that was about 25 feet too short in hull length.
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Jaager got a reaction from Bobstrake in Using Cherry for ship builds
Black Cherry - there is big difference in the color between the sapwood and heartwood. The heartwood contains significantly more material stored within the cell walls. Included are compounds that are subject to oxidation - which produces a color change. The sapwood does not contain as much of these compounds which limits its color change. There is a finite amount in a cell and when all of it is oxidized, there is no further color change.
The sapwood plank on Dave's hull adds character, interest, and makes it evident that the hull is indeed made up of individual planks. A story could be told about the need to replace a damaged plank while on a distant voyage - using local lumber. Certainly not a far fetched scenario.
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Jaager got a reaction from Bobstrake in Using Cherry for ship builds
Cherry is one of two readily available domestic hardwoods that are worth consideration -
It is softer than I had thought, but it does work well and carves nicely - cuts where the blade goes instead of splitting off at an angle.
The other is Acer saccharum - Hard Maple (rock/sugar) - harder than Cherry - but worth a look as a replacement for Buxus sempervirens .
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Jaager got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Long Term Paint Storage
A trick recommended for storing Tung oil may work for paint: add marbles, or in this case glass beads to reduce the volume of air in the jar.
Store the bottles in a Mason jar, an open bottle of water in the sealed jar would saturate the environment with water vapor and greatly reduce any loss of water the paint bottles. A similar setup with oil based paint with excess solvent in the jar environment should reduce any tendency for the paint solvent to evaporate.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Long Term Paint Storage
Giving more thought to the bottle seals - cardboard does not seem likely to make that tight a long term complete closure, and plastic may potentially react with or to components in the paint - especially oil based paint. Why not try to go Old School? I am thinking that auto parts dealers may have cork veneer - thin sheets of cork used to make gaskets. Plug disks could be cut and used to seal the paint bottles.
The ultimate would be glass bottles with ground glass plugs. In the Lab, we stored sensitive chemicals inside a large jar, with a wide lid - mating ground glass rims, coated with a silicon grease and a top port that could be connected to a vacuum line and then closed off.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Using Cherry for ship builds
Black Cherry - there is big difference in the color between the sapwood and heartwood. The heartwood contains significantly more material stored within the cell walls. Included are compounds that are subject to oxidation - which produces a color change. The sapwood does not contain as much of these compounds which limits its color change. There is a finite amount in a cell and when all of it is oxidized, there is no further color change.
The sapwood plank on Dave's hull adds character, interest, and makes it evident that the hull is indeed made up of individual planks. A story could be told about the need to replace a damaged plank while on a distant voyage - using local lumber. Certainly not a far fetched scenario.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Long Term Paint Storage
Giving more thought to the bottle seals - cardboard does not seem likely to make that tight a long term complete closure, and plastic may potentially react with or to components in the paint - especially oil based paint. Why not try to go Old School? I am thinking that auto parts dealers may have cork veneer - thin sheets of cork used to make gaskets. Plug disks could be cut and used to seal the paint bottles.
The ultimate would be glass bottles with ground glass plugs. In the Lab, we stored sensitive chemicals inside a large jar, with a wide lid - mating ground glass rims, coated with a silicon grease and a top port that could be connected to a vacuum line and then closed off.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Long Term Paint Storage
A trick recommended for storing Tung oil may work for paint: add marbles, or in this case glass beads to reduce the volume of air in the jar.
Store the bottles in a Mason jar, an open bottle of water in the sealed jar would saturate the environment with water vapor and greatly reduce any loss of water the paint bottles. A similar setup with oil based paint with excess solvent in the jar environment should reduce any tendency for the paint solvent to evaporate.
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Jaager got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in Long Term Paint Storage
Giving more thought to the bottle seals - cardboard does not seem likely to make that tight a long term complete closure, and plastic may potentially react with or to components in the paint - especially oil based paint. Why not try to go Old School? I am thinking that auto parts dealers may have cork veneer - thin sheets of cork used to make gaskets. Plug disks could be cut and used to seal the paint bottles.
The ultimate would be glass bottles with ground glass plugs. In the Lab, we stored sensitive chemicals inside a large jar, with a wide lid - mating ground glass rims, coated with a silicon grease and a top port that could be connected to a vacuum line and then closed off.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Long Term Paint Storage
A trick recommended for storing Tung oil may work for paint: add marbles, or in this case glass beads to reduce the volume of air in the jar.
Store the bottles in a Mason jar, an open bottle of water in the sealed jar would saturate the environment with water vapor and greatly reduce any loss of water the paint bottles. A similar setup with oil based paint with excess solvent in the jar environment should reduce any tendency for the paint solvent to evaporate.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Erik W in Using Cherry for ship builds
Black Cherry - there is big difference in the color between the sapwood and heartwood. The heartwood contains significantly more material stored within the cell walls. Included are compounds that are subject to oxidation - which produces a color change. The sapwood does not contain as much of these compounds which limits its color change. There is a finite amount in a cell and when all of it is oxidized, there is no further color change.
The sapwood plank on Dave's hull adds character, interest, and makes it evident that the hull is indeed made up of individual planks. A story could be told about the need to replace a damaged plank while on a distant voyage - using local lumber. Certainly not a far fetched scenario.
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