Jaager

So far, I have found that the wood of closely related species has many if not most of the characteristics that we desire in the species on our list.
The color will probably be different, but the basic structure seems to hold.
If carving is of interest or perhaps bitts, catheads, belfry, etc.  It would probably be worth investigation.  
I am guessing that your neighbor wants to keep it and you would rather the situation was otherwise.
If you can get at it - all together now:  debark, seal the cut ends, and sticker - out of the weather😉.
 
Yup, I was discussing Pyracantha - the name was in deep memory and did not come in readily- painful to prune.  I had an even worse small thorny bush - the numerous thorns had a constriction just behind the tip, so that it would break off and stay in skin - really sharp so it went deep with little force. No wood with that one. Too small. 

I looked again -  and brick is a bit small   
4"x11"   6"x9    pick a size and hope it matches your need .
I also made a smaller "table"  with a 1" foam top.  I made holes in it to hold my carving chisels - the height set to keep the tips hanging suspended, but the base is a layer of foam "just in case" it is not high enough.  The suspension keeps the blades in view so I can see which is which - side slots hold my scrapers - you want a set of small size luthier's scrapers -  shop - boy is there a wide range of prices  for a set like this:

Peachtree's $25 does not seem that bad.

I question if something that  ..... fixed .... specifically organized..?  would serve very well  with ship modeling - which has many varied stages - each with different tools.
 
I have had good luck   using project Styrofoam.
2 inches thick - about the size of a brick --  Home Depot sells smaller sheets of 1" project Styrofoam 
It is porous -so PVA will bond two cut to size pieces  which is then glued to a 1/2" plywood base with a lip/porch on all 4 sides - a longer porch on one side makes for a handy stage for in-use tools.
Punch holes in the top of the foam using the tool handles and they standup - fixed - visible and ready to grab -  there can be a different brick for each type of work. Easy to move and store.
 
PVA will not melt it - most plastic glues will - a hot glue gun was a disaster -  PVA does not work with most plastic but most plastic is not full of tiny holes.

I believe that August Crabtree started his project while living in Oregon or Washington - he called it fire thorn.
That it is common there would explain his using it.
Here, fire thorn is a hedge - foundation plating - it is in the rose family and is plenty hard, but it only gets to stick diameter. 

I question if something that  ..... fixed .... specifically organized..?  would serve very well  with ship modeling - which has many varied stages - each with different tools.
 
I have had good luck   using project Styrofoam.
2 inches thick - about the size of a brick --  Home Depot sells smaller sheets of 1" project Styrofoam 
It is porous -so PVA will bond two cut to size pieces  which is then glued to a 1/2" plywood base with a lip/porch on all 4 sides - a longer porch on one side makes for a handy stage for in-use tools.
Punch holes in the top of the foam using the tool handles and they standup - fixed - visible and ready to grab -  there can be a different brick for each type of work. Easy to move and store.
 
PVA will not melt it - most plastic glues will - a hot glue gun was a disaster -  PVA does not work with most plastic but most plastic is not full of tiny holes.

I question if something that  ..... fixed .... specifically organized..?  would serve very well  with ship modeling - which has many varied stages - each with different tools.
 
I have had good luck   using project Styrofoam.
2 inches thick - about the size of a brick --  Home Depot sells smaller sheets of 1" project Styrofoam 
It is porous -so PVA will bond two cut to size pieces  which is then glued to a 1/2" plywood base with a lip/porch on all 4 sides - a longer porch on one side makes for a handy stage for in-use tools.
Punch holes in the top of the foam using the tool handles and they standup - fixed - visible and ready to grab -  there can be a different brick for each type of work. Easy to move and store.
 
PVA will not melt it - most plastic glues will - a hot glue gun was a disaster -  PVA does not work with most plastic but most plastic is not full of tiny holes.

Allan Yedlinsky - SCANTLINGS OF THE ROYAL NAVY 1719-1805
Seawatch Books 
is much easier to use and has much more data.  I have a
reprint of Steel by Sim Comfort but the Yedlinsky volume is 
easier to use -

Drilling down the center for the axle.
I propose to use a 1/2" steel rod with a key way already cut into it for the axle.
The drum would need two matching key way slots - one at either end to mate with the axle slot.  ?A 1/2" or so deep slot - enough for an off the shelf key?
I do not think a glue bond would be wise and I understand that Al to Fe welds do not work.
Then the drum would need to be trued and polished a bit.
Then a slot milled on the long axis  to match the wedges on the Byrnes sander and four tapped holes.
I guess truing the ends too.
 
Something like six separate operations -

My stock is 2 in.    But serious food for thought.  Looking on-line 12"  is more than wide enough,  most seem to accept 6" thick and 3" is the most that I will need. 
 
If I am reading you correctly,  the Aluminum milling will be too expensive?
It is beginning to look like there is more to this than appears at first glance,
 
I have a Ryobi 10" tables saw system - it will mount a router under the table - extra surface on either side of the blade- it is on wheels -  The table saw works  but I would rather not use it - I like having 10 fingers - plus the blade kerf and limited depth of cut per pass does not compare to my bandsaw for milling.  Right now, it is a table that holds my scroll saw and parks my sander off my work bench.  Now that I think on it,  I guess that I could park a CRAFTSMAN 12.25-in W 15-Amp Benchtop Planer ( favorable review and is $350 at SLowes -  65 lb)  on it and play musical chairs with the other tools.    Move it out to my driveway for use. 
 

Then there is a new problem - getting a 1/2" steel shaft fixed dead center in the long axis.
 
I am of the thought that 7x not very heavy is still not very heavy - at least  as far as a 1/2HP motor is concerned.
 
 
I will still have the old parts.  I can recover what I now have.
I will do search for commercial drum sanders.  My prejudice/supposition going in is that there are model size sanders -  and then there are commercial shop size.  I am guessing that the middle belongs to bench top cutting planers.  I will explore.
 
 
 

Drilling down the center for the axle.
I propose to use a 1/2" steel rod with a key way already cut into it for the axle.
The drum would need two matching key way slots - one at either end to mate with the axle slot.  ?A 1/2" or so deep slot - enough for an off the shelf key?
I do not think a glue bond would be wise and I understand that Al to Fe welds do not work.
Then the drum would need to be trued and polished a bit.
Then a slot milled on the long axis  to match the wedges on the Byrnes sander and four tapped holes.
I guess truing the ends too.
 
Something like six separate operations -

Drilling down the center for the axle.
I propose to use a 1/2" steel rod with a key way already cut into it for the axle.
The drum would need two matching key way slots - one at either end to mate with the axle slot.  ?A 1/2" or so deep slot - enough for an off the shelf key?
I do not think a glue bond would be wise and I understand that Al to Fe welds do not work.
Then the drum would need to be trued and polished a bit.
Then a slot milled on the long axis  to match the wedges on the Byrnes sander and four tapped holes.
I guess truing the ends too.
 
Something like six separate operations -

My stock is 2 in.    But serious food for thought.  Looking on-line 12"  is more than wide enough,  most seem to accept 6" thick and 3" is the most that I will need. 
 
If I am reading you correctly,  the Aluminum milling will be too expensive?
It is beginning to look like there is more to this than appears at first glance,
 
I have a Ryobi 10" tables saw system - it will mount a router under the table - extra surface on either side of the blade- it is on wheels -  The table saw works  but I would rather not use it - I like having 10 fingers - plus the blade kerf and limited depth of cut per pass does not compare to my bandsaw for milling.  Right now, it is a table that holds my scroll saw and parks my sander off my work bench.  Now that I think on it,  I guess that I could park a CRAFTSMAN 12.25-in W 15-Amp Benchtop Planer ( favorable review and is $350 at SLowes -  65 lb)  on it and play musical chairs with the other tools.    Move it out to my driveway for use. 
 

Then there is a new problem - getting a 1/2" steel shaft fixed dead center in the long axis.
 
I am of the thought that 7x not very heavy is still not very heavy - at least  as far as a 1/2HP motor is concerned.
 
 
I will still have the old parts.  I can recover what I now have.
I will do search for commercial drum sanders.  My prejudice/supposition going in is that there are model size sanders -  and then there are commercial shop size.  I am guessing that the middle belongs to bench top cutting planers.  I will explore.
 
 
 

Mostly for the ability to clamp the sandpaper instead of using glue.
 
 
Plus - the Maple is no longer a uniform diameter -  not a serious problem when its job is to get bandsaw slices to 80 grit surfaced stock that is close to final thickness to finish using my Byrnes unit for 150 and 220. 

The cooling  - new motor - now TEFC - and wide open cross ventilation because I cut away the two sides of the box.
The 1/2 HP is powerful enough I think. 
The old pillow bearings may not stand up to twice the RPM.  I will watch.  And probably opt for a new belt and keep the 4" drum pulley if I decide to increase the axle height. 
 
Same UCP pillow block  =  $10 vs $17 vs $23 on line -  the serious ones have grease fittings - and I left my grease gun back in KY with my John Deere.
A small gun for 3oz cart not too expensive
 
This is getting more and more involved - 
 
 
I had been thinking that Maple was fairly dense,  but my back of the envelope calculations 
s.g.  Map 0.71   Al  2.7
3" = 1.5 squared   4" =  2 squared   pi and length cancel -   2.25x0.71  vs 4x2.7 =  1.6 vs 10.8  = 6.75 times heavier  WOW
 
Every time I approach building a new hull, I forget just how much time and work are involved in getting enough framing stock.
At 1:60 scale  I am estimating that I will need  60 x 2' x 2"  for a 3rd rate    and 100 x 2' x 2"  for a 1st rate for framing stock
The wood needed for everything else is trivial in comparison.
I don't think scratch POF is feasible if you are not your own sawmill.

 

That is the factor that concerns me.  I see a balance  between the friction and the contact time being half and the longer trip around the drum allowing for more cooling.  
If the fabricator can and will do it, and does not want a king's ransom I guess I will just try it and see.   If heat is a problem, I can fit a larger pulley on the drum and take the machine to a local belt supplier and get the correct new belt.
 
I see a challenge feeding a two foot plank that is 2" thick and 7-8" wide.  It weighs a lot more than a 1/3" slice.
 
Bandsaw observation:
The 2x4 framing timber slices are a lot straighter than a fuzzy cupped hardwood plank allows.   
The blade seems to cut straighter if the convex side is on the table.

Then there is a new problem - getting a 1/2" steel shaft fixed dead center in the long axis.
 
I am of the thought that 7x not very heavy is still not very heavy - at least  as far as a 1/2HP motor is concerned.
 
 
I will still have the old parts.  I can recover what I now have.
I will do search for commercial drum sanders.  My prejudice/supposition going in is that there are model size sanders -  and then there are commercial shop size.  I am guessing that the middle belongs to bench top cutting planers.  I will explore.
 
 
 

Mostly for the ability to clamp the sandpaper instead of using glue.
 
 
Plus - the Maple is no longer a uniform diameter -  not a serious problem when its job is to get bandsaw slices to 80 grit surfaced stock that is close to final thickness to finish using my Byrnes unit for 150 and 220. 

Mostly for the ability to clamp the sandpaper instead of using glue.
 
 
Plus - the Maple is no longer a uniform diameter -  not a serious problem when its job is to get bandsaw slices to 80 grit surfaced stock that is close to final thickness to finish using my Byrnes unit for 150 and 220. 

The cooling  - new motor - now TEFC - and wide open cross ventilation because I cut away the two sides of the box.
The 1/2 HP is powerful enough I think. 
The old pillow bearings may not stand up to twice the RPM.  I will watch.  And probably opt for a new belt and keep the 4" drum pulley if I decide to increase the axle height. 
 
Same UCP pillow block  =  $10 vs $17 vs $23 on line -  the serious ones have grease fittings - and I left my grease gun back in KY with my John Deere.
A small gun for 3oz cart not too expensive
 
This is getting more and more involved - 
 
 
I had been thinking that Maple was fairly dense,  but my back of the envelope calculations 
s.g.  Map 0.71   Al  2.7
3" = 1.5 squared   4" =  2 squared   pi and length cancel -   2.25x0.71  vs 4x2.7 =  1.6 vs 10.8  = 6.75 times heavier  WOW
 
Every time I approach building a new hull, I forget just how much time and work are involved in getting enough framing stock.
At 1:60 scale  I am estimating that I will need  60 x 2' x 2"  for a 3rd rate    and 100 x 2' x 2"  for a 1st rate for framing stock
The wood needed for everything else is trivial in comparison.
I don't think scratch POF is feasible if you are not your own sawmill.

 

That is the factor that concerns me.  I see a balance  between the friction and the contact time being half and the longer trip around the drum allowing for more cooling.  
If the fabricator can and will do it, and does not want a king's ransom I guess I will just try it and see.   If heat is a problem, I can fit a larger pulley on the drum and take the machine to a local belt supplier and get the correct new belt.
 
I see a challenge feeding a two foot plank that is 2" thick and 7-8" wide.  It weighs a lot more than a 1/3" slice.
 
Bandsaw observation:
The 2x4 framing timber slices are a lot straighter than a fuzzy cupped hardwood plank allows.   
The blade seems to cut straighter if the convex side is on the table.

I have a drum sander made using plans from the guild - probably from the 1970's
I use it now for 60-80 grit  to get two clear smooth surfaces -  my bandsaw slices need ~0.045" planed on each surface for scar and wander removal.
 
The old motor - a 1/3 HP cap. start finally died - I was a bad daddy = poor vent closed box - did not see the ocean of saw dust that was haft way up the motor.
 
I have replaced it with a new Granger  1/2 HP 1700 rpm TEFC GP no cap. and I cut large holes in each side for air flow.  It works really well.
The new 1/2HP has a 5/8" shaft instead of a 1/2".  I bought a new 4: x 5/8" pulley that got here the same day as the new motor.
 
I do not have room for an actual planer -  It would be that or my car in the garage.  The constant salt air - not good for a car.
 
Now I want to tempt Fate.
The drum is 3" x 11"  Hard Maple -  it is showing cracks -  way back when 9x11 paper was it and this drum fits that exactly.
I use Weldwood Contact cement to hold the medium.  Even though I now use cloth backed medium, it is still a chore to replace - nothing that I have tried will dissolve the contact cement.  Mineral spirits and Naptha will kill it and turn it into sticky balls, but it is work to clean.
 
I can get an Aluminum rod - custom cut to 11" -  3"  but I thick I want to get a 4" diameter.
The increase in diameter will increase the area per unit time of sandpaper at a given RPM.  Should be OK for the new motor I think.
If I leave the pillow blocks where they are - I will lose 1/2" of stock thickness.
My drum has a 6" pulley
My motor has a 4" pulley
This means that the drum is rotating 66%  of the motor.
 
 
If I get a 4" Al drum - custom cut to 11"  from MetalsDepot,
I found a 1/2" steel  keyed rotary shaft at M-C ,
If I get two 6" wedges from MM  -  with a wedge mechanical paper hold like Jim's design - paper change will be easy.
If I raise the pillow blocks to be able to sand thicker stock,  I can keep my present belt if I replace the 6" drum pulley with the 4" pulley from my old motor.
I will get an additional 1.75" of possible stock thickness
 
I just need a local shop to dill a 1/2" hole down the center of the AL rod.  Mill a key way into the inside hole to connect the shaft to the drum - partway at one or either end should do the trick?  Mill a wedge slot and tap for 4 holes.  I figure that trimming 1/4" from each end of the two 6" wedges should be no problem?
 
 
Now the question:
Will increasing the drum circumference from 9.4" to 12.5" and increasing the RPM of the drum from 1100 RPM to 1700 RPM  -  thus increasing the area of sanding medium per unit time cause a problem?
If it does, I guess I can get a larger diameter drum pulley and try to find a new belt that fits.
 
I am of a hope that I will find out Tuesday if I can find a local shop to mill the Aluminum and if the cost is acceptable.
I really would like to surface my rough 8x4 by 2 foot Maple and Cherry to play nicer with my bandsaw,
 

I have a drum sander made using plans from the guild - probably from the 1970's
I use it now for 60-80 grit  to get two clear smooth surfaces -  my bandsaw slices need ~0.045" planed on each surface for scar and wander removal.
 
The old motor - a 1/3 HP cap. start finally died - I was a bad daddy = poor vent closed box - did not see the ocean of saw dust that was haft way up the motor.
 
I have replaced it with a new Granger  1/2 HP 1700 rpm TEFC GP no cap. and I cut large holes in each side for air flow.  It works really well.
The new 1/2HP has a 5/8" shaft instead of a 1/2".  I bought a new 4: x 5/8" pulley that got here the same day as the new motor.
 
I do not have room for an actual planer -  It would be that or my car in the garage.  The constant salt air - not good for a car.
 
Now I want to tempt Fate.
The drum is 3" x 11"  Hard Maple -  it is showing cracks -  way back when 9x11 paper was it and this drum fits that exactly.
I use Weldwood Contact cement to hold the medium.  Even though I now use cloth backed medium, it is still a chore to replace - nothing that I have tried will dissolve the contact cement.  Mineral spirits and Naptha will kill it and turn it into sticky balls, but it is work to clean.
 
I can get an Aluminum rod - custom cut to 11" -  3"  but I thick I want to get a 4" diameter.
The increase in diameter will increase the area per unit time of sandpaper at a given RPM.  Should be OK for the new motor I think.
If I leave the pillow blocks where they are - I will lose 1/2" of stock thickness.
My drum has a 6" pulley
My motor has a 4" pulley
This means that the drum is rotating 66%  of the motor.
 
 
If I get a 4" Al drum - custom cut to 11"  from MetalsDepot,
I found a 1/2" steel  keyed rotary shaft at M-C ,
If I get two 6" wedges from MM  -  with a wedge mechanical paper hold like Jim's design - paper change will be easy.
If I raise the pillow blocks to be able to sand thicker stock,  I can keep my present belt if I replace the 6" drum pulley with the 4" pulley from my old motor.
I will get an additional 1.75" of possible stock thickness
 
I just need a local shop to dill a 1/2" hole down the center of the AL rod.  Mill a key way into the inside hole to connect the shaft to the drum - partway at one or either end should do the trick?  Mill a wedge slot and tap for 4 holes.  I figure that trimming 1/4" from each end of the two 6" wedges should be no problem?
 
 
Now the question:
Will increasing the drum circumference from 9.4" to 12.5" and increasing the RPM of the drum from 1100 RPM to 1700 RPM  -  thus increasing the area of sanding medium per unit time cause a problem?
If it does, I guess I can get a larger diameter drum pulley and try to find a new belt that fits.
 
I am of a hope that I will find out Tuesday if I can find a local shop to mill the Aluminum and if the cost is acceptable.
I really would like to surface my rough 8x4 by 2 foot Maple and Cherry to play nicer with my bandsaw,
 

A license and inspection is not needed for home built furniture, but if you use a simple plate glass and some sort of accident happens and the glass breaks into obsidian sharp spear points you might wish that you had been required to use a tempered glass that shatters into harmless balls.