Jaager

I have no doubt that this is a frequent occurrence with the older POB kits from some companies.
I do question the explanation.  Wood is fairly to significantly old before it is even harvested.
Once felled, the wood will then have its original water content reduced to ambient humidity (seasoning).
How long this takes involves a number of factors - thickness being a major one.  From then on wood will
change its concentration of water to be in balance with the humidity of its surrounding air.
 
I propose that the major problem with these older kits lies with the choice of wood species selected for inclusion in the kit.
From day one with these kits it is GIGO as far as how the wood behaves.  Using glue, finishing agents, paint, etc.  will alter how it responds over time.
 
However you factor this out,  our dominant investment by far is: TIME.
We never get it back. 
We will never be compensated at any hourly rate commensurate with that of professionals doing similar skill level jobs.
Quality wood does not fight you at ever step.  Its presentation is more appropriate.
 
Your time would be better spent building quality kits.  The intangible feeling is more pleasurable.
If you are determined to proceed with this,  your experience will be more rewarding if you were to replace every wooden part with a quality wood.  Use the original wood as patterns where this is worth doing.  If the cost of the second hand kit does not make this economical to do, you would be spending too much.

Moran tugs have an ongoing presence here in the lower Bay.
There is a Dumas kit for Carol Moran
Plans for Moran tugs do not jump out at you.
 
If you want a Revolutionary War vessel - There are NMM plans for the frigate Roebuck -  a first generation sister was Charon - who's  coppered lower hull is still on the bottom of the York right at where your daughter lives (I think). 
 
Any of the NMM plans for Revolution War era British sailing merchantmen could stand for the ones sunk during the Yorktown campaign.
 
 
I searched for plans for the tug Dorothy 1891 - Newport News Shipbuilding and Drydock hull #1
DOROTHY: HULL NUMBER ONE COMES HOME
FOX,WM A
NAUTICAL RESEARCH JOURNAL
1976
22
183-202  
STEAM BOAT NA 19TH
A
DOROTHY
This article contains a full set of plans -  The CD ....
 

I have done the thought experiment of how to place a strake - that looks like a strake - made up of two different species of wood and have them butt at the waterline and have all of the other strakes that cross the waterline - when seen together - have that waterline appear to be a straight line.  There are at least two variables in play with this.   I think juggling one ball at a time is enough for me.   Just running the bottom planking as is normal starting below the wale as a single species - seems to be the best way to keep sane.
 
The early ANCRE volumes came with a sheet of color chips.
I have a vague recollection that EAR Jr.  had early 19th century color chips in the journal - As long as they were based on mineral paints, they should be valid as likely shades possible  - for thousands, if not millions of years.

I have done the thought experiment of how to place a strake - that looks like a strake - made up of two different species of wood and have them butt at the waterline and have all of the other strakes that cross the waterline - when seen together - have that waterline appear to be a straight line.  There are at least two variables in play with this.   I think juggling one ball at a time is enough for me.   Just running the bottom planking as is normal starting below the wale as a single species - seems to be the best way to keep sane.
 
The early ANCRE volumes came with a sheet of color chips.
I have a vague recollection that EAR Jr.  had early 19th century color chips in the journal - As long as they were based on mineral paints, they should be valid as likely shades possible  - for thousands, if not millions of years.

I have done the thought experiment of how to place a strake - that looks like a strake - made up of two different species of wood and have them butt at the waterline and have all of the other strakes that cross the waterline - when seen together - have that waterline appear to be a straight line.  There are at least two variables in play with this.   I think juggling one ball at a time is enough for me.   Just running the bottom planking as is normal starting below the wale as a single species - seems to be the best way to keep sane.
 
The early ANCRE volumes came with a sheet of color chips.
I have a vague recollection that EAR Jr.  had early 19th century color chips in the journal - As long as they were based on mineral paints, they should be valid as likely shades possible  - for thousands, if not millions of years.

I have done the thought experiment of how to place a strake - that looks like a strake - made up of two different species of wood and have them butt at the waterline and have all of the other strakes that cross the waterline - when seen together - have that waterline appear to be a straight line.  There are at least two variables in play with this.   I think juggling one ball at a time is enough for me.   Just running the bottom planking as is normal starting below the wale as a single species - seems to be the best way to keep sane.
 
The early ANCRE volumes came with a sheet of color chips.
I have a vague recollection that EAR Jr.  had early 19th century color chips in the journal - As long as they were based on mineral paints, they should be valid as likely shades possible  - for thousands, if not millions of years.

Moran tugs have an ongoing presence here in the lower Bay.
There is a Dumas kit for Carol Moran
Plans for Moran tugs do not jump out at you.
 
If you want a Revolutionary War vessel - There are NMM plans for the frigate Roebuck -  a first generation sister was Charon - who's  coppered lower hull is still on the bottom of the York right at where your daughter lives (I think). 
 
Any of the NMM plans for Revolution War era British sailing merchantmen could stand for the ones sunk during the Yorktown campaign.
 
 
I searched for plans for the tug Dorothy 1891 - Newport News Shipbuilding and Drydock hull #1
DOROTHY: HULL NUMBER ONE COMES HOME
FOX,WM A
NAUTICAL RESEARCH JOURNAL
1976
22
183-202  
STEAM BOAT NA 19TH
A
DOROTHY
This article contains a full set of plans -  The CD ....
 

I think that I still have a large scale set of plans for Dorothy.  Back in the ‘80’s NRG held a conference at Point Comfort, VA and I met someone from NNSD who sent them to me.  If you decide to build a model of her I would be happy to send them to you.
 
Roger

Moran tugs have an ongoing presence here in the lower Bay.
There is a Dumas kit for Carol Moran
Plans for Moran tugs do not jump out at you.
 
If you want a Revolutionary War vessel - There are NMM plans for the frigate Roebuck -  a first generation sister was Charon - who's  coppered lower hull is still on the bottom of the York right at where your daughter lives (I think). 
 
Any of the NMM plans for Revolution War era British sailing merchantmen could stand for the ones sunk during the Yorktown campaign.
 
 
I searched for plans for the tug Dorothy 1891 - Newport News Shipbuilding and Drydock hull #1
DOROTHY: HULL NUMBER ONE COMES HOME
FOX,WM A
NAUTICAL RESEARCH JOURNAL
1976
22
183-202  
STEAM BOAT NA 19TH
A
DOROTHY
This article contains a full set of plans -  The CD ....
 

I looked again -  and brick is a bit small   
4"x11"   6"x9    pick a size and hope it matches your need .
I also made a smaller "table"  with a 1" foam top.  I made holes in it to hold my carving chisels - the height set to keep the tips hanging suspended, but the base is a layer of foam "just in case" it is not high enough.  The suspension keeps the blades in view so I can see which is which - side slots hold my scrapers - you want a set of small size luthier's scrapers -  shop - boy is there a wide range of prices  for a set like this:

Peachtree's $25 does not seem that bad.

I question if something that  ..... fixed .... specifically organized..?  would serve very well  with ship modeling - which has many varied stages - each with different tools.
 
I have had good luck   using project Styrofoam.
2 inches thick - about the size of a brick --  Home Depot sells smaller sheets of 1" project Styrofoam 
It is porous -so PVA will bond two cut to size pieces  which is then glued to a 1/2" plywood base with a lip/porch on all 4 sides - a longer porch on one side makes for a handy stage for in-use tools.
Punch holes in the top of the foam using the tool handles and they standup - fixed - visible and ready to grab -  there can be a different brick for each type of work. Easy to move and store.
 
PVA will not melt it - most plastic glues will - a hot glue gun was a disaster -  PVA does not work with most plastic but most plastic is not full of tiny holes.

I looked again -  and brick is a bit small   
4"x11"   6"x9    pick a size and hope it matches your need .
I also made a smaller "table"  with a 1" foam top.  I made holes in it to hold my carving chisels - the height set to keep the tips hanging suspended, but the base is a layer of foam "just in case" it is not high enough.  The suspension keeps the blades in view so I can see which is which - side slots hold my scrapers - you want a set of small size luthier's scrapers -  shop - boy is there a wide range of prices  for a set like this:

Peachtree's $25 does not seem that bad.

I looked again -  and brick is a bit small   
4"x11"   6"x9    pick a size and hope it matches your need .
I also made a smaller "table"  with a 1" foam top.  I made holes in it to hold my carving chisels - the height set to keep the tips hanging suspended, but the base is a layer of foam "just in case" it is not high enough.  The suspension keeps the blades in view so I can see which is which - side slots hold my scrapers - you want a set of small size luthier's scrapers -  shop - boy is there a wide range of prices  for a set like this:

Peachtree's $25 does not seem that bad.

I question if something that  ..... fixed .... specifically organized..?  would serve very well  with ship modeling - which has many varied stages - each with different tools.
 
I have had good luck   using project Styrofoam.
2 inches thick - about the size of a brick --  Home Depot sells smaller sheets of 1" project Styrofoam 
It is porous -so PVA will bond two cut to size pieces  which is then glued to a 1/2" plywood base with a lip/porch on all 4 sides - a longer porch on one side makes for a handy stage for in-use tools.
Punch holes in the top of the foam using the tool handles and they standup - fixed - visible and ready to grab -  there can be a different brick for each type of work. Easy to move and store.
 
PVA will not melt it - most plastic glues will - a hot glue gun was a disaster -  PVA does not work with most plastic but most plastic is not full of tiny holes.

So far, I have found that the wood of closely related species has many if not most of the characteristics that we desire in the species on our list.
The color will probably be different, but the basic structure seems to hold.
If carving is of interest or perhaps bitts, catheads, belfry, etc.  It would probably be worth investigation.  
I am guessing that your neighbor wants to keep it and you would rather the situation was otherwise.
If you can get at it - all together now:  debark, seal the cut ends, and sticker - out of the weather😉.
 
Yup, I was discussing Pyracantha - the name was in deep memory and did not come in readily- painful to prune.  I had an even worse small thorny bush - the numerous thorns had a constriction just behind the tip, so that it would break off and stay in skin - really sharp so it went deep with little force. No wood with that one. Too small. 

I looked again -  and brick is a bit small   
4"x11"   6"x9    pick a size and hope it matches your need .
I also made a smaller "table"  with a 1" foam top.  I made holes in it to hold my carving chisels - the height set to keep the tips hanging suspended, but the base is a layer of foam "just in case" it is not high enough.  The suspension keeps the blades in view so I can see which is which - side slots hold my scrapers - you want a set of small size luthier's scrapers -  shop - boy is there a wide range of prices  for a set like this:

Peachtree's $25 does not seem that bad.

I question if something that  ..... fixed .... specifically organized..?  would serve very well  with ship modeling - which has many varied stages - each with different tools.
 
I have had good luck   using project Styrofoam.
2 inches thick - about the size of a brick --  Home Depot sells smaller sheets of 1" project Styrofoam 
It is porous -so PVA will bond two cut to size pieces  which is then glued to a 1/2" plywood base with a lip/porch on all 4 sides - a longer porch on one side makes for a handy stage for in-use tools.
Punch holes in the top of the foam using the tool handles and they standup - fixed - visible and ready to grab -  there can be a different brick for each type of work. Easy to move and store.
 
PVA will not melt it - most plastic glues will - a hot glue gun was a disaster -  PVA does not work with most plastic but most plastic is not full of tiny holes.

I believe that August Crabtree started his project while living in Oregon or Washington - he called it fire thorn.
That it is common there would explain his using it.
Here, fire thorn is a hedge - foundation plating - it is in the rose family and is plenty hard, but it only gets to stick diameter. 

I question if something that  ..... fixed .... specifically organized..?  would serve very well  with ship modeling - which has many varied stages - each with different tools.
 
I have had good luck   using project Styrofoam.
2 inches thick - about the size of a brick --  Home Depot sells smaller sheets of 1" project Styrofoam 
It is porous -so PVA will bond two cut to size pieces  which is then glued to a 1/2" plywood base with a lip/porch on all 4 sides - a longer porch on one side makes for a handy stage for in-use tools.
Punch holes in the top of the foam using the tool handles and they standup - fixed - visible and ready to grab -  there can be a different brick for each type of work. Easy to move and store.
 
PVA will not melt it - most plastic glues will - a hot glue gun was a disaster -  PVA does not work with most plastic but most plastic is not full of tiny holes.

I question if something that  ..... fixed .... specifically organized..?  would serve very well  with ship modeling - which has many varied stages - each with different tools.
 
I have had good luck   using project Styrofoam.
2 inches thick - about the size of a brick --  Home Depot sells smaller sheets of 1" project Styrofoam 
It is porous -so PVA will bond two cut to size pieces  which is then glued to a 1/2" plywood base with a lip/porch on all 4 sides - a longer porch on one side makes for a handy stage for in-use tools.
Punch holes in the top of the foam using the tool handles and they standup - fixed - visible and ready to grab -  there can be a different brick for each type of work. Easy to move and store.
 
PVA will not melt it - most plastic glues will - a hot glue gun was a disaster -  PVA does not work with most plastic but most plastic is not full of tiny holes.

Allan Yedlinsky - SCANTLINGS OF THE ROYAL NAVY 1719-1805
Seawatch Books 
is much easier to use and has much more data.  I have a
reprint of Steel by Sim Comfort but the Yedlinsky volume is 
easier to use -

Drilling down the center for the axle.
I propose to use a 1/2" steel rod with a key way already cut into it for the axle.
The drum would need two matching key way slots - one at either end to mate with the axle slot.  ?A 1/2" or so deep slot - enough for an off the shelf key?
I do not think a glue bond would be wise and I understand that Al to Fe welds do not work.
Then the drum would need to be trued and polished a bit.
Then a slot milled on the long axis  to match the wedges on the Byrnes sander and four tapped holes.
I guess truing the ends too.
 
Something like six separate operations -

My stock is 2 in.    But serious food for thought.  Looking on-line 12"  is more than wide enough,  most seem to accept 6" thick and 3" is the most that I will need. 
 
If I am reading you correctly,  the Aluminum milling will be too expensive?
It is beginning to look like there is more to this than appears at first glance,
 
I have a Ryobi 10" tables saw system - it will mount a router under the table - extra surface on either side of the blade- it is on wheels -  The table saw works  but I would rather not use it - I like having 10 fingers - plus the blade kerf and limited depth of cut per pass does not compare to my bandsaw for milling.  Right now, it is a table that holds my scroll saw and parks my sander off my work bench.  Now that I think on it,  I guess that I could park a CRAFTSMAN 12.25-in W 15-Amp Benchtop Planer ( favorable review and is $350 at SLowes -  65 lb)  on it and play musical chairs with the other tools.    Move it out to my driveway for use. 
 

Then there is a new problem - getting a 1/2" steel shaft fixed dead center in the long axis.
 
I am of the thought that 7x not very heavy is still not very heavy - at least  as far as a 1/2HP motor is concerned.
 
 
I will still have the old parts.  I can recover what I now have.
I will do search for commercial drum sanders.  My prejudice/supposition going in is that there are model size sanders -  and then there are commercial shop size.  I am guessing that the middle belongs to bench top cutting planers.  I will explore.
 
 
 

Drilling down the center for the axle.
I propose to use a 1/2" steel rod with a key way already cut into it for the axle.
The drum would need two matching key way slots - one at either end to mate with the axle slot.  ?A 1/2" or so deep slot - enough for an off the shelf key?
I do not think a glue bond would be wise and I understand that Al to Fe welds do not work.
Then the drum would need to be trued and polished a bit.
Then a slot milled on the long axis  to match the wedges on the Byrnes sander and four tapped holes.
I guess truing the ends too.
 
Something like six separate operations -