Jaager

You may have better luck if the English word is spelled correctly not david  but davit.
I think that a rough definition using "fish" as a verb   is:   
a fish davit would be  a line with a hook on the distant end attached to the outer end of a pole
 
to fish means hooking something in the water and pulling it up.
 a cathead crane can get a heavy anchor up and out of the water but it will hang like a bell
to tie it down means rotating it ~ 90 degrees and securing it to the side of the ship so that it is not a wrecking ball.
Given the weight of the anchor on a liner fishing and rotating the fluke end was probably a non-trivial chore.
I wonder if the tool used to do it - the fish davit - could not be loose -  a disposable item - not really a permanent part of the hull?

All of this looks to me like something that a team of ship's carpenters could alter on their own in an afternoon or two.
I do not think that obsessing about there being a single "answer to it" would have a definitive solution.  I see it as a moving target.
Anything contemporary could be and probably is correct.  Just avoid anachronism. 
 
It may be an artifact from the photography, but the holes for the pins look to have about twice the probable diameter.

As I was doing yet another of my denken experimenten  (slang from my German American major professor) about this
 
I am seeing that something more involved than just loosing the end of a rope was involved in setting an anchor.
I can see that the fluke could rip a chunk out the the channel or even the wale unless the anchor was swung out before letting gravity take control.  A fish davit could have a two way function.

As I was doing yet another of my denken experimenten  (slang from my German American major professor) about this
 
I am seeing that something more involved than just loosing the end of a rope was involved in setting an anchor.
I can see that the fluke could rip a chunk out the the channel or even the wale unless the anchor was swung out before letting gravity take control.  A fish davit could have a two way function.

The first step is to seal the cut ends.  What you use is not critical.  Hot paraffin, shellac,  old varnish,  old paint - oil based is probably better.  Thick - the object is to make it difficult for the water to get out at open ends of the tubes that are wood.  Different rates water migration produce stress = splitting and checking
 
Length:  that depends on you - close to the longest that you use on your bench - a tad more to account for loss from seasoning.
De-bark:  now if you have the patience.   It allows the water easier egress.  It removes the eggs and larvae of wood borers. 
A draw knife or spoke shave makes a quick job of it if the branch is secured from moving.
The old rule is one year per inch of thickness to reach water concentration equilibrium. 
I would aim at ~2" thickness and 2 foot length for my system.
Seal the ends NOW.
 
Wood can do ugly things as it dries,  splits and checks ate the worse-  bow and twist is not helpful -
Protect for the elements - no rain or snow - direct sun = uneven drying
good air flow around all sides = sticker the rick
Serious downward pressure - weights on top of the rick may reduce twist and bow
 
 

It all depends on just which products you are calling a stain. 
If it is a commercial product in the US and it is labeled as being a Stain - think surface product - a wood shade pigment in a binder that is thin enough to let some grain show thru.  It may also include a dye component,  but a commercial product = Stain - is intended to be used on a 1:1 scale object.
This is not an especially favorable product to have in the way of a bonding surface.
 
If it is a true solution.  a pigment - in alcohol or water - or a dry powder that you get into solution -  and a solution does not need mixing or shaking - it is a single unit that requires a physical action to separate -
it goes into the wood - it becomes part of the wood - it does not affect a glue bond.
 
We need to be on the same page as far as the definition of the terms.  
 
Chuck :  a commercial STAIN - would probably have an unfavorable outcome if that is used before bonding.  
A dye has very little surface tension. it runs everywhere.  if you have adjacent planks with different colors dying after bonding and avoiding bleed over would be difficult.
 
OllieS :   if the UK terms a dye as being a stain - you are correct -  but  noun stain  and verb stain  are causing confusion.
 
Chuck :
An oil finish -   does leave layer on a primed surface.
A primer can be a coat of half saturated shellac or half saturated oil.  It fills the pores and voids in the wood.  follow on coats stay on the surface.  Unless the coat is too thick or the oil has deteriorated - it then polymerizes and is a layer - one big single unit.  How thick the layer is depends - on the volume applied - which oil it is - 
I think the thickest is polyurethane -  but then polyurethane is a true synthetic plastic -  it might as well be polyethylene - polyvinyl - polypropylene - etc  a better living thru chemistry sort of thing
 
 
 

It all depends on just which products you are calling a stain. 
If it is a commercial product in the US and it is labeled as being a Stain - think surface product - a wood shade pigment in a binder that is thin enough to let some grain show thru.  It may also include a dye component,  but a commercial product = Stain - is intended to be used on a 1:1 scale object.
This is not an especially favorable product to have in the way of a bonding surface.
 
If it is a true solution.  a pigment - in alcohol or water - or a dry powder that you get into solution -  and a solution does not need mixing or shaking - it is a single unit that requires a physical action to separate -
it goes into the wood - it becomes part of the wood - it does not affect a glue bond.
 
We need to be on the same page as far as the definition of the terms.  
 
Chuck :  a commercial STAIN - would probably have an unfavorable outcome if that is used before bonding.  
A dye has very little surface tension. it runs everywhere.  if you have adjacent planks with different colors dying after bonding and avoiding bleed over would be difficult.
 
OllieS :   if the UK terms a dye as being a stain - you are correct -  but  noun stain  and verb stain  are causing confusion.
 
Chuck :
An oil finish -   does leave layer on a primed surface.
A primer can be a coat of half saturated shellac or half saturated oil.  It fills the pores and voids in the wood.  follow on coats stay on the surface.  Unless the coat is too thick or the oil has deteriorated - it then polymerizes and is a layer - one big single unit.  How thick the layer is depends - on the volume applied - which oil it is - 
I think the thickest is polyurethane -  but then polyurethane is a true synthetic plastic -  it might as well be polyethylene - polyvinyl - polypropylene - etc  a better living thru chemistry sort of thing
 
 
 

Ah,  the place where an RN admiral was executed on his quarter deck for being too timid.
 
A 22 gun is essentially a corvette (Sloop-of-War)  not as bad as a frigate but it is still a formidable subject as a first wooden model - coming from plastic or coming in cold.
 
I imagine it is a difficult read in translation, but you could read the "For Beginners-" post at the top of this forum
If you do start with the 22 gun  and it becomes too much - the beginners topic may show you a way to recover your ambition by taking a smaller bite and succeeding at it.
Plastic is probably more of a negative stepping stone into wood and sail  - assembly instructions (plastic) and fabrication plans (wood) are different things.
 

Ah,  the place where an RN admiral was executed on his quarter deck for being too timid.
 
A 22 gun is essentially a corvette (Sloop-of-War)  not as bad as a frigate but it is still a formidable subject as a first wooden model - coming from plastic or coming in cold.
 
I imagine it is a difficult read in translation, but you could read the "For Beginners-" post at the top of this forum
If you do start with the 22 gun  and it becomes too much - the beginners topic may show you a way to recover your ambition by taking a smaller bite and succeeding at it.
Plastic is probably more of a negative stepping stone into wood and sail  - assembly instructions (plastic) and fabrication plans (wood) are different things.
 

It all depends on just which products you are calling a stain. 
If it is a commercial product in the US and it is labeled as being a Stain - think surface product - a wood shade pigment in a binder that is thin enough to let some grain show thru.  It may also include a dye component,  but a commercial product = Stain - is intended to be used on a 1:1 scale object.
This is not an especially favorable product to have in the way of a bonding surface.
 
If it is a true solution.  a pigment - in alcohol or water - or a dry powder that you get into solution -  and a solution does not need mixing or shaking - it is a single unit that requires a physical action to separate -
it goes into the wood - it becomes part of the wood - it does not affect a glue bond.
 
We need to be on the same page as far as the definition of the terms.  
 
Chuck :  a commercial STAIN - would probably have an unfavorable outcome if that is used before bonding.  
A dye has very little surface tension. it runs everywhere.  if you have adjacent planks with different colors dying after bonding and avoiding bleed over would be difficult.
 
OllieS :   if the UK terms a dye as being a stain - you are correct -  but  noun stain  and verb stain  are causing confusion.
 
Chuck :
An oil finish -   does leave layer on a primed surface.
A primer can be a coat of half saturated shellac or half saturated oil.  It fills the pores and voids in the wood.  follow on coats stay on the surface.  Unless the coat is too thick or the oil has deteriorated - it then polymerizes and is a layer - one big single unit.  How thick the layer is depends - on the volume applied - which oil it is - 
I think the thickest is polyurethane -  but then polyurethane is a true synthetic plastic -  it might as well be polyethylene - polyvinyl - polypropylene - etc  a better living thru chemistry sort of thing
 
 
 

It all depends on just which products you are calling a stain. 
If it is a commercial product in the US and it is labeled as being a Stain - think surface product - a wood shade pigment in a binder that is thin enough to let some grain show thru.  It may also include a dye component,  but a commercial product = Stain - is intended to be used on a 1:1 scale object.
This is not an especially favorable product to have in the way of a bonding surface.
 
If it is a true solution.  a pigment - in alcohol or water - or a dry powder that you get into solution -  and a solution does not need mixing or shaking - it is a single unit that requires a physical action to separate -
it goes into the wood - it becomes part of the wood - it does not affect a glue bond.
 
We need to be on the same page as far as the definition of the terms.  
 
Chuck :  a commercial STAIN - would probably have an unfavorable outcome if that is used before bonding.  
A dye has very little surface tension. it runs everywhere.  if you have adjacent planks with different colors dying after bonding and avoiding bleed over would be difficult.
 
OllieS :   if the UK terms a dye as being a stain - you are correct -  but  noun stain  and verb stain  are causing confusion.
 
Chuck :
An oil finish -   does leave layer on a primed surface.
A primer can be a coat of half saturated shellac or half saturated oil.  It fills the pores and voids in the wood.  follow on coats stay on the surface.  Unless the coat is too thick or the oil has deteriorated - it then polymerizes and is a layer - one big single unit.  How thick the layer is depends - on the volume applied - which oil it is - 
I think the thickest is polyurethane -  but then polyurethane is a true synthetic plastic -  it might as well be polyethylene - polyvinyl - polypropylene - etc  a better living thru chemistry sort of thing
 
 
 

I personally would not stain a ship model with any kind of wipe on oil or resin based product intended for full sized objects.  I believe that like everything else involving models the coating thickness needs to be to scale.  Heavy buildups of wipe on oils is undesirable.  If you use classic ship model woods to scratch build Dockyard type models staining should not be required.  Most woods supplied with kits are better painted.
 
Roger

You may wish you had done a test first.  Take some scrap pieces of the same wood to the stain shop.  Color the part that will be so treated on the model, dry. bond. After a time, test the bond strength as compared to a control of bare wood to bare wood.  
A strength over time test could be done but it is not worth the trouble -  i.e.  a chemical reaction rate doubles with every 10 degree C rise in temp.  a low temp oven -

You may wish you had done a test first.  Take some scrap pieces of the same wood to the stain shop.  Color the part that will be so treated on the model, dry. bond. After a time, test the bond strength as compared to a control of bare wood to bare wood.  
A strength over time test could be done but it is not worth the trouble -  i.e.  a chemical reaction rate doubles with every 10 degree C rise in temp.  a low temp oven -

"Stain"  can have more than one meaning as it is commonly used.
it is often used to describe any product that colors wood.  This comes from turning the verb "to stain", meaning anything that colors, into a noun.
In general two different agents are used.
 
An actual "stain" is a semi transparent paint.  If you use this on wood before using PVA, there is a possibility of the pores and fiber irregularities being filled. A weak PVA bond is possible.
If CA is used - it will bond to the paint layer.  Its strength will be the strength of the paint to the wood.
Some stain products advertise as being "penetrating".  This probably means that there is a mixture of paint and dye in the product.
 
A dye soaks into the wood. It is a clear solution of dye molecules in the solvent base,  It does not affect the surface or the pores.
There are two types of dye - water based and alcohol based. 
The water based dye soaks in more deeply.  On a piece of furniture, this can make a difference in the quality of the look.
At model scales,  the surface is too small for a deeper color to be visible.  Water base will cause wood to swell with the first application or two - sanding and or scraping is needed to fix this.
Just water can be used first, sanded and then dyed - it may save a second dye application to hide what the sanding did to the color.
Alcohol based dye saves all that. The wood does not swell and it dries more quickly.
 
A stain product makes its living by turning cheap and poor quality wood into something that looks better - to partially hide boring grain - often on open pore wood species that need a thick pore filler.
A dye is meant for high quality wood, where the grain wants being accentuated instead of being hidden.

"Stain"  can have more than one meaning as it is commonly used.
it is often used to describe any product that colors wood.  This comes from turning the verb "to stain", meaning anything that colors, into a noun.
In general two different agents are used.
 
An actual "stain" is a semi transparent paint.  If you use this on wood before using PVA, there is a possibility of the pores and fiber irregularities being filled. A weak PVA bond is possible.
If CA is used - it will bond to the paint layer.  Its strength will be the strength of the paint to the wood.
Some stain products advertise as being "penetrating".  This probably means that there is a mixture of paint and dye in the product.
 
A dye soaks into the wood. It is a clear solution of dye molecules in the solvent base,  It does not affect the surface or the pores.
There are two types of dye - water based and alcohol based. 
The water based dye soaks in more deeply.  On a piece of furniture, this can make a difference in the quality of the look.
At model scales,  the surface is too small for a deeper color to be visible.  Water base will cause wood to swell with the first application or two - sanding and or scraping is needed to fix this.
Just water can be used first, sanded and then dyed - it may save a second dye application to hide what the sanding did to the color.
Alcohol based dye saves all that. The wood does not swell and it dries more quickly.
 
A stain product makes its living by turning cheap and poor quality wood into something that looks better - to partially hide boring grain - often on open pore wood species that need a thick pore filler.
A dye is meant for high quality wood, where the grain wants being accentuated instead of being hidden.

"Stain"  can have more than one meaning as it is commonly used.
it is often used to describe any product that colors wood.  This comes from turning the verb "to stain", meaning anything that colors, into a noun.
In general two different agents are used.
 
An actual "stain" is a semi transparent paint.  If you use this on wood before using PVA, there is a possibility of the pores and fiber irregularities being filled. A weak PVA bond is possible.
If CA is used - it will bond to the paint layer.  Its strength will be the strength of the paint to the wood.
Some stain products advertise as being "penetrating".  This probably means that there is a mixture of paint and dye in the product.
 
A dye soaks into the wood. It is a clear solution of dye molecules in the solvent base,  It does not affect the surface or the pores.
There are two types of dye - water based and alcohol based. 
The water based dye soaks in more deeply.  On a piece of furniture, this can make a difference in the quality of the look.
At model scales,  the surface is too small for a deeper color to be visible.  Water base will cause wood to swell with the first application or two - sanding and or scraping is needed to fix this.
Just water can be used first, sanded and then dyed - it may save a second dye application to hide what the sanding did to the color.
Alcohol based dye saves all that. The wood does not swell and it dries more quickly.
 
A stain product makes its living by turning cheap and poor quality wood into something that looks better - to partially hide boring grain - often on open pore wood species that need a thick pore filler.
A dye is meant for high quality wood, where the grain wants being accentuated instead of being hidden.

"Stain"  can have more than one meaning as it is commonly used.
it is often used to describe any product that colors wood.  This comes from turning the verb "to stain", meaning anything that colors, into a noun.
In general two different agents are used.
 
An actual "stain" is a semi transparent paint.  If you use this on wood before using PVA, there is a possibility of the pores and fiber irregularities being filled. A weak PVA bond is possible.
If CA is used - it will bond to the paint layer.  Its strength will be the strength of the paint to the wood.
Some stain products advertise as being "penetrating".  This probably means that there is a mixture of paint and dye in the product.
 
A dye soaks into the wood. It is a clear solution of dye molecules in the solvent base,  It does not affect the surface or the pores.
There are two types of dye - water based and alcohol based. 
The water based dye soaks in more deeply.  On a piece of furniture, this can make a difference in the quality of the look.
At model scales,  the surface is too small for a deeper color to be visible.  Water base will cause wood to swell with the first application or two - sanding and or scraping is needed to fix this.
Just water can be used first, sanded and then dyed - it may save a second dye application to hide what the sanding did to the color.
Alcohol based dye saves all that. The wood does not swell and it dries more quickly.
 
A stain product makes its living by turning cheap and poor quality wood into something that looks better - to partially hide boring grain - often on open pore wood species that need a thick pore filler.
A dye is meant for high quality wood, where the grain wants being accentuated instead of being hidden.

"Stain"  can have more than one meaning as it is commonly used.
it is often used to describe any product that colors wood.  This comes from turning the verb "to stain", meaning anything that colors, into a noun.
In general two different agents are used.
 
An actual "stain" is a semi transparent paint.  If you use this on wood before using PVA, there is a possibility of the pores and fiber irregularities being filled. A weak PVA bond is possible.
If CA is used - it will bond to the paint layer.  Its strength will be the strength of the paint to the wood.
Some stain products advertise as being "penetrating".  This probably means that there is a mixture of paint and dye in the product.
 
A dye soaks into the wood. It is a clear solution of dye molecules in the solvent base,  It does not affect the surface or the pores.
There are two types of dye - water based and alcohol based. 
The water based dye soaks in more deeply.  On a piece of furniture, this can make a difference in the quality of the look.
At model scales,  the surface is too small for a deeper color to be visible.  Water base will cause wood to swell with the first application or two - sanding and or scraping is needed to fix this.
Just water can be used first, sanded and then dyed - it may save a second dye application to hide what the sanding did to the color.
Alcohol based dye saves all that. The wood does not swell and it dries more quickly.
 
A stain product makes its living by turning cheap and poor quality wood into something that looks better - to partially hide boring grain - often on open pore wood species that need a thick pore filler.
A dye is meant for high quality wood, where the grain wants being accentuated instead of being hidden.

It looks like the General pin vise that I bought when I started all this -  the early "70's.  It was/is better quality than the now stuff, the collets = two units - different bore at each end - there is a storage cavity at the swivel end. 
Still my go to- mostly. 
I have never been introduced to the Starrett version.  A four unit set would probably be worth it if the buyer was young.

It looks like the General pin vise that I bought when I started all this -  the early "70's.  It was/is better quality than the now stuff, the collets = two units - different bore at each end - there is a storage cavity at the swivel end. 
Still my go to- mostly. 
I have never been introduced to the Starrett version.  A four unit set would probably be worth it if the buyer was young.

It looks like the General pin vise that I bought when I started all this -  the early "70's.  It was/is better quality than the now stuff, the collets = two units - different bore at each end - there is a storage cavity at the swivel end. 
Still my go to- mostly. 
I have never been introduced to the Starrett version.  A four unit set would probably be worth it if the buyer was young.

I would guess that it would be a tedious process,  but to reduce the chemical acceleration back to ambient rate , would not a neutralization step be needed?
A treatment with a dilute sodium bicarbonate solution and a couple of rinses with distilled water?
 
 
 

I would guess that it would be a tedious process,  but to reduce the chemical acceleration back to ambient rate , would not a neutralization step be needed?
A treatment with a dilute sodium bicarbonate solution and a couple of rinses with distilled water?