Jaager

None of the wood species on my list for possibles for you will be available at a commercial hardwood dealer.  Do you have local tree services?  I would doubt that firewood would be a big deal there, so that is not a likely source - it is not really all that useful here - they deal in wood that is mostly open pore and coarse grain.   Is smoking your own meat a hobby there?   Are there county extension agents for farmers?  They may know of farmers who have useful species of trees if you tell them what you are looking for. 
A two foot long log is as long as you need.  If a log has too much diameter, a wedge can bisect it. 
Any tree harvesters on the island?  The stuff that you want is the stuff in their way.  Trash that they are happy to get rid of.
You will need a "friend" with a 14" or larger bandsaw.  You supply his blades.  Study on seasoning?  Look up how to make your own kiln.  Speed will not be an imperative, so a lower temp will work - it just needs to be high enough to suspend or kill fungus and wood eating insects.
 

There is a joy involved with working with species of wood that are appropriate for our uses.
An unfortunate factor is when a wood with a limited supply and is harvested from the wild reaches fad status.  The result is a high price and or unavailability.
Harvesting your own - making a deal for tool use if you do not have them would be productive and sustainable.
 
Is Calycophyllum candidissimum - Lemonwood, Degame  grown in Puerto Rico?   Eriobotrya japonica -Loquat, Japanese Plum?   Citrus sp. - Orange/Lemon/Lime?   Zanthoxylum flavum - West Indian Satinwood?  Any species of Rosewood?
 
Going domestic is less expensive.  Using trees that are too small for commercial exploitation opens many more possibilities.   Most authors and members live in temperate or colder regions so species that we can get are the ones written about.  That does not mean that wood that is growing close to you cannot be just as useful.

None of the wood species on my list for possibles for you will be available at a commercial hardwood dealer.  Do you have local tree services?  I would doubt that firewood would be a big deal there, so that is not a likely source - it is not really all that useful here - they deal in wood that is mostly open pore and coarse grain.   Is smoking your own meat a hobby there?   Are there county extension agents for farmers?  They may know of farmers who have useful species of trees if you tell them what you are looking for. 
A two foot long log is as long as you need.  If a log has too much diameter, a wedge can bisect it. 
Any tree harvesters on the island?  The stuff that you want is the stuff in their way.  Trash that they are happy to get rid of.
You will need a "friend" with a 14" or larger bandsaw.  You supply his blades.  Study on seasoning?  Look up how to make your own kiln.  Speed will not be an imperative, so a lower temp will work - it just needs to be high enough to suspend or kill fungus and wood eating insects.
 

There is a joy involved with working with species of wood that are appropriate for our uses.
An unfortunate factor is when a wood with a limited supply and is harvested from the wild reaches fad status.  The result is a high price and or unavailability.
Harvesting your own - making a deal for tool use if you do not have them would be productive and sustainable.
 
Is Calycophyllum candidissimum - Lemonwood, Degame  grown in Puerto Rico?   Eriobotrya japonica -Loquat, Japanese Plum?   Citrus sp. - Orange/Lemon/Lime?   Zanthoxylum flavum - West Indian Satinwood?  Any species of Rosewood?
 
Going domestic is less expensive.  Using trees that are too small for commercial exploitation opens many more possibilities.   Most authors and members live in temperate or colder regions so species that we can get are the ones written about.  That does not mean that wood that is growing close to you cannot be just as useful.

A bit of exploration about wood:
Some of it is 100's if not more years old before it is even cut.  Except for a thin layer just under the bark, it is dead even on the hoof.
In a living tree, it is wet.  One of its jobs is to circulate water and nutrients.   When wood is cut and milled, one of the other processes is to get the excess water out = seasoning'
Wood "likes" water.  It will always have a water content that is in proportion to the concentration of water vapor in the air surrounding it.  Wood cannot get drier than this.
Wood is cellulose and lignin.  Cellulose is a polymer of sugars.  It will oxidize.  Very slowly if it is just in contact with atmospheric oxygen at ambient temp.   Very quickly at 451 F. in the presence of oxygen,  or an an aqueous environment and exposed to the right enzymes from gut bacteria.  The reverse is that exposed to elevated temp in the absence of oxygen, it will reduce to elemental carbon - charcoal.
 
Old brittle wood is probably that way because it is a species of young brittle wood.  The dry part is limited by the relative humidity.  Every species of wood in an environment will have about the same degree of "dryness".   The cure to your problem is to use a more appropriate species of wood.   

If I were building a J Boat Model I would not buy any planking. I would carve two half models using laminated lifts band sawed to waterline or buttock lines (aka, the bread and butter method). I would then pin and glue the carved halves together. The J Boats were steel or bronze plated with flush seams.  Planking, therefore, does not mimic actual construction and many of the old America’s Cup boats were built from half models so you would be following in the footsteps of the old Naval Architects.  
 
A properly carved hull will result in a highly accurate model.  I have been reading Rob Napier’s new book Caring For Ship Models and most of the old models that have survived have solid hulls;  a few are POF, none are POB.  POB hull construction is a relatively recent phenomena.  Time will tell how long these models will last.
 
Lumber yard select quality pine will make an excellent carved hull.

Jorge,
 
I mean this with no degree of authority.  More in the way of an old farmer telling a soldier:  you might want to go another way than walking thru the mind field (as well as minefield)  that is in the direction that you are going.
 
Are you sure that the person who made this gift to you is really a friend?😉
 
Without doing more than a superficial inspection I have the following poor opinion of the original iteration of Mamoli :
 
The number of molds is not adequate for the degree of support needed.
The  relationship of the plans to those of the actual ship is an accident  if it happens to be close.
It looks to me as though the same plans were used for the hull of the old versions of these three:  Beagle  - Bounty  - Endeavor
The trash wood - only good for making pallets - this quality of species used has been mentioned more than once. 
There is no real remediation.  Even if you can do something to reverse the effects of age, the wood that you have was probably sprouted as junk. 
Alchemy has always been a delusion, a mind altering substance generated dream.  Your efforts will probably be a form of alchemy.
 
There are plenty of plans of Victory 1765 floating around.  A check to see if the Mamoli plans lines are close to being authentic may be prudent.
 
I have been doing a bit of lofting and I find that the difference between even a 90 gun liner and a 100+ gun liner is more than just 10 more guns would suggest.
There is a significant jump.  A 100 gun liner is a monster.  It is so much work.  If all that you want is a decorator style model, this Mamoli project may be all that you need.
If your purpose is a bit more serious,  you may wish to begin with a better foundation.  Not matter your choice, this project will be a significant time sink.
 
Dean
 

Jorge,
 
I mean this with no degree of authority.  More in the way of an old farmer telling a soldier:  you might want to go another way than walking thru the mind field (as well as minefield)  that is in the direction that you are going.
 
Are you sure that the person who made this gift to you is really a friend?😉
 
Without doing more than a superficial inspection I have the following poor opinion of the original iteration of Mamoli :
 
The number of molds is not adequate for the degree of support needed.
The  relationship of the plans to those of the actual ship is an accident  if it happens to be close.
It looks to me as though the same plans were used for the hull of the old versions of these three:  Beagle  - Bounty  - Endeavor
The trash wood - only good for making pallets - this quality of species used has been mentioned more than once. 
There is no real remediation.  Even if you can do something to reverse the effects of age, the wood that you have was probably sprouted as junk. 
Alchemy has always been a delusion, a mind altering substance generated dream.  Your efforts will probably be a form of alchemy.
 
There are plenty of plans of Victory 1765 floating around.  A check to see if the Mamoli plans lines are close to being authentic may be prudent.
 
I have been doing a bit of lofting and I find that the difference between even a 90 gun liner and a 100+ gun liner is more than just 10 more guns would suggest.
There is a significant jump.  A 100 gun liner is a monster.  It is so much work.  If all that you want is a decorator style model, this Mamoli project may be all that you need.
If your purpose is a bit more serious,  you may wish to begin with a better foundation.  Not matter your choice, this project will be a significant time sink.
 
Dean
 

A bit of exploration about wood:
Some of it is 100's if not more years old before it is even cut.  Except for a thin layer just under the bark, it is dead even on the hoof.
In a living tree, it is wet.  One of its jobs is to circulate water and nutrients.   When wood is cut and milled, one of the other processes is to get the excess water out = seasoning'
Wood "likes" water.  It will always have a water content that is in proportion to the concentration of water vapor in the air surrounding it.  Wood cannot get drier than this.
Wood is cellulose and lignin.  Cellulose is a polymer of sugars.  It will oxidize.  Very slowly if it is just in contact with atmospheric oxygen at ambient temp.   Very quickly at 451 F. in the presence of oxygen,  or an an aqueous environment and exposed to the right enzymes from gut bacteria.  The reverse is that exposed to elevated temp in the absence of oxygen, it will reduce to elemental carbon - charcoal.
 
Old brittle wood is probably that way because it is a species of young brittle wood.  The dry part is limited by the relative humidity.  Every species of wood in an environment will have about the same degree of "dryness".   The cure to your problem is to use a more appropriate species of wood.   

The stay sharp longer  carbide bits are the wrong type for us.  They are for steel and for use in a precision machine.  The characteristic that makes them hold their edge also makes them brittle.
Hand held - pin vise or a rotary tool - and probably miniature drill press - into wood - involves a bit of flex at the beginning of the bore.  Carbide is not up to this abuse.
 
I don't know what a $30.50 bit can do, but I mainly suspect that the seller is trolling for dupes.
 
I think HHS is the type we want.  Quality steel yields a degree of survival from flex.   Bright is my choice.
I go with domestic manufacturers if given the option.
 
Here is a company that is a supplier - not a manufacturer - but with #70 bits at ~ $1.00 each - it will not cost much to test their products.
https://www.cmlsupply.com/bright-finish/
 
Up scale mills used as a drill press is practical if you do a lot of work with steel too.
We have had an on going vigorous debate about drill press choices.  Do a search in the tool forum for hours of discussion.  I suspect that when a subject has a lot of different favorites as for finding the right answer, that there are a lot of right answers.
The utility of a drill press depends on your style of building.   For some, it is a door stop.  For some, it is an everyday tool.

A bit of exploration about wood:
Some of it is 100's if not more years old before it is even cut.  Except for a thin layer just under the bark, it is dead even on the hoof.
In a living tree, it is wet.  One of its jobs is to circulate water and nutrients.   When wood is cut and milled, one of the other processes is to get the excess water out = seasoning'
Wood "likes" water.  It will always have a water content that is in proportion to the concentration of water vapor in the air surrounding it.  Wood cannot get drier than this.
Wood is cellulose and lignin.  Cellulose is a polymer of sugars.  It will oxidize.  Very slowly if it is just in contact with atmospheric oxygen at ambient temp.   Very quickly at 451 F. in the presence of oxygen,  or an an aqueous environment and exposed to the right enzymes from gut bacteria.  The reverse is that exposed to elevated temp in the absence of oxygen, it will reduce to elemental carbon - charcoal.
 
Old brittle wood is probably that way because it is a species of young brittle wood.  The dry part is limited by the relative humidity.  Every species of wood in an environment will have about the same degree of "dryness".   The cure to your problem is to use a more appropriate species of wood.   

A bit of exploration about wood:
Some of it is 100's if not more years old before it is even cut.  Except for a thin layer just under the bark, it is dead even on the hoof.
In a living tree, it is wet.  One of its jobs is to circulate water and nutrients.   When wood is cut and milled, one of the other processes is to get the excess water out = seasoning'
Wood "likes" water.  It will always have a water content that is in proportion to the concentration of water vapor in the air surrounding it.  Wood cannot get drier than this.
Wood is cellulose and lignin.  Cellulose is a polymer of sugars.  It will oxidize.  Very slowly if it is just in contact with atmospheric oxygen at ambient temp.   Very quickly at 451 F. in the presence of oxygen,  or an an aqueous environment and exposed to the right enzymes from gut bacteria.  The reverse is that exposed to elevated temp in the absence of oxygen, it will reduce to elemental carbon - charcoal.
 
Old brittle wood is probably that way because it is a species of young brittle wood.  The dry part is limited by the relative humidity.  Every species of wood in an environment will have about the same degree of "dryness".   The cure to your problem is to use a more appropriate species of wood.   

The stay sharp longer  carbide bits are the wrong type for us.  They are for steel and for use in a precision machine.  The characteristic that makes them hold their edge also makes them brittle.
Hand held - pin vise or a rotary tool - and probably miniature drill press - into wood - involves a bit of flex at the beginning of the bore.  Carbide is not up to this abuse.
 
I don't know what a $30.50 bit can do, but I mainly suspect that the seller is trolling for dupes.
 
I think HHS is the type we want.  Quality steel yields a degree of survival from flex.   Bright is my choice.
I go with domestic manufacturers if given the option.
 
Here is a company that is a supplier - not a manufacturer - but with #70 bits at ~ $1.00 each - it will not cost much to test their products.
https://www.cmlsupply.com/bright-finish/
 
Up scale mills used as a drill press is practical if you do a lot of work with steel too.
We have had an on going vigorous debate about drill press choices.  Do a search in the tool forum for hours of discussion.  I suspect that when a subject has a lot of different favorites as for finding the right answer, that there are a lot of right answers.
The utility of a drill press depends on your style of building.   For some, it is a door stop.  For some, it is an everyday tool.

The stay sharp longer  carbide bits are the wrong type for us.  They are for steel and for use in a precision machine.  The characteristic that makes them hold their edge also makes them brittle.
Hand held - pin vise or a rotary tool - and probably miniature drill press - into wood - involves a bit of flex at the beginning of the bore.  Carbide is not up to this abuse.
 
I don't know what a $30.50 bit can do, but I mainly suspect that the seller is trolling for dupes.
 
I think HHS is the type we want.  Quality steel yields a degree of survival from flex.   Bright is my choice.
I go with domestic manufacturers if given the option.
 
Here is a company that is a supplier - not a manufacturer - but with #70 bits at ~ $1.00 each - it will not cost much to test their products.
https://www.cmlsupply.com/bright-finish/
 
Up scale mills used as a drill press is practical if you do a lot of work with steel too.
We have had an on going vigorous debate about drill press choices.  Do a search in the tool forum for hours of discussion.  I suspect that when a subject has a lot of different favorites as for finding the right answer, that there are a lot of right answers.
The utility of a drill press depends on your style of building.   For some, it is a door stop.  For some, it is an everyday tool.

The stay sharp longer  carbide bits are the wrong type for us.  They are for steel and for use in a precision machine.  The characteristic that makes them hold their edge also makes them brittle.
Hand held - pin vise or a rotary tool - and probably miniature drill press - into wood - involves a bit of flex at the beginning of the bore.  Carbide is not up to this abuse.
 
I don't know what a $30.50 bit can do, but I mainly suspect that the seller is trolling for dupes.
 
I think HHS is the type we want.  Quality steel yields a degree of survival from flex.   Bright is my choice.
I go with domestic manufacturers if given the option.
 
Here is a company that is a supplier - not a manufacturer - but with #70 bits at ~ $1.00 each - it will not cost much to test their products.
https://www.cmlsupply.com/bright-finish/
 
Up scale mills used as a drill press is practical if you do a lot of work with steel too.
We have had an on going vigorous debate about drill press choices.  Do a search in the tool forum for hours of discussion.  I suspect that when a subject has a lot of different favorites as for finding the right answer, that there are a lot of right answers.
The utility of a drill press depends on your style of building.   For some, it is a door stop.  For some, it is an everyday tool.

I can imagine that instead of a raised iron bolt head,  because of rusting,  the bolt would be counter sunk, then a packing of waterproofing gunk, then a wooden plug.  The plug grain oriented with the standard grain, so that only an outline would be visible and if painted, that detail hidden by the paint?
As far as authenticity - nothing may be closer to the mark?
As far as modelers convention - a trunnel - if belt and suspenders is your want -  or a brass or copper pin for show.

I can imagine that instead of a raised iron bolt head,  because of rusting,  the bolt would be counter sunk, then a packing of waterproofing gunk, then a wooden plug.  The plug grain oriented with the standard grain, so that only an outline would be visible and if painted, that detail hidden by the paint?
As far as authenticity - nothing may be closer to the mark?
As far as modelers convention - a trunnel - if belt and suspenders is your want -  or a brass or copper pin for show.

In which case, go with the max allowed:  twice the beam.

In which case, go with the max allowed:  twice the beam.

A primer of half saturated shellac is easily applied using a cotton rag - a worn out T shirt or bed sheet - it soaks into the wood.  Using the rag  - no ponds are left on the surface - it does not hide detail.
Indeed, if you had used an open pore wood species like Oak or Walnut, the open pores would still be there.  The application is less involved than using an air brush.  It is quick and simple to use.  It takes many applications of full strength to build any sort of thickness - an application is just a wet layer, not a coat.
Use scrap wood and practice a few times - you will then realize that it is not as complicated as imagined.  You can buff with a Scotch Brite pad when dry - 0000 steel wool is traditional, but the steel shards - not seen, but there - make themselves known when they turn to rust and leave a stain.

A primer of half saturated shellac is easily applied using a cotton rag - a worn out T shirt or bed sheet - it soaks into the wood.  Using the rag  - no ponds are left on the surface - it does not hide detail.
Indeed, if you had used an open pore wood species like Oak or Walnut, the open pores would still be there.  The application is less involved than using an air brush.  It is quick and simple to use.  It takes many applications of full strength to build any sort of thickness - an application is just a wet layer, not a coat.
Use scrap wood and practice a few times - you will then realize that it is not as complicated as imagined.  You can buff with a Scotch Brite pad when dry - 0000 steel wool is traditional, but the steel shards - not seen, but there - make themselves known when they turn to rust and leave a stain.

Thinking about it, it sort of makes sense.   I think that the channels are parallel to the midline.   The data points in the Establishments are the place where they are most narrow.   For the mizzen, the slope of the tops is a small rate of change.   That said, I would probably still make it parallel  - then the after end would be slightly wider.    They would not be parallelograms when viewed from above, they would be a section of a large triangle.  (Plane Geometry was in 1962 and I forget the name of a 4 side with all sides unequal.)
OR
if it is parallel with the side of the ship, only the one data point would be needed.  In this case they would be parallelograms.
 

I have not seen the term before, but on an open boat, the painter is a section of rope at the bow that is used to tie it to the back of the ship - or whatever else is towing it.   It supplies a metaphor? for removing someone from your support: " cutting the painter".   To fit that name, I would guess that the chain is a relatively short length with the distant end not attached to anything - until it is used to temporarily secure an anchor or boat.
 
Looking at your deadeyes,  I wonder if a two part strop would work?  
1- a belt that wraps around the body with ends that meet at the bottom.
2- a hole in the deadeye at that bottom site where an eye is glued into the hole.  The end of the eye being a pointed tap - twisted?
 
Would this be faster to mass produce?  I can see that a two part epoxy would make this a "forever" unit.

Siggi,
Goodwin describes a canvas "boot"  with a secure rope binding at the top and a on-off rope binding at the deck level. It was tar coated. 
The bottom was removable for inspection - especially after a storm.  These would likely be at every deck that is subject to flooding.  I can't see how the bottom could be tied down unless some sort of wedge - even if loose - was in place.
 
 
 
 
 
 

A primer of half saturated shellac is easily applied using a cotton rag - a worn out T shirt or bed sheet - it soaks into the wood.  Using the rag  - no ponds are left on the surface - it does not hide detail.
Indeed, if you had used an open pore wood species like Oak or Walnut, the open pores would still be there.  The application is less involved than using an air brush.  It is quick and simple to use.  It takes many applications of full strength to build any sort of thickness - an application is just a wet layer, not a coat.
Use scrap wood and practice a few times - you will then realize that it is not as complicated as imagined.  You can buff with a Scotch Brite pad when dry - 0000 steel wool is traditional, but the steel shards - not seen, but there - make themselves known when they turn to rust and leave a stain.