Jaager

I second Bob's rec. of having 220V.   It is expensive to retro fit.  and again with Bob over engineer the amps. 
Any proper 14" bandsaw will need 220V.   You being your own sawmill = big boy bandsaw.

You are missing a real opportunity in not taking full advantage of this separate room.
Put your shop vac in there.  Add a radio controlled On/Off.  The 4" or 2.5" hole in the wall for the vac hose can also take the power cord for the vac.  In place of the vac under the bench, put a Dust Deputy cyclone trap -  or whatever brand or type you like.   A vac with no noise is a luxury that most of us can only dream about.   My only annoyance with the Dust Deputy is that the 5 gal bottom trap does not play nice if a kitchen 22 gal plastic trash bag is in it.  Dumping a full 5 gal bucket into a plastic bag is messy - an outdoors job that gets flocculant mess everywhere - no matter how tightly closed the bag is during the dump.

Might I also suggest AC outlets in the front of workbenches just below the bench top?. These make it very easy to plug, unplug, and use hand-held corded power tools like Dremels and soldering irons at the bench with the cords hanging down in front of the bench rather than running across the bench top where they can foul on stuff on the bench top.  Each power outlet circuit should have a ground-fault interrupter on it for those occasions when you inadvertently lay your hot soldering iron across it's plastic power cord.  
 
15 amp service is fine for lighting and small power tools, but I'd suggest you provide 30 amp service to all outlets for when you may need it. (Like when your electric coffee pot, microwave, and portable space heater are all running at the same time.  )  As you anticipate doing full-size woodworking in your shop, I think you'd also be wise to run 220 VAC to power outlets in appropriate areas. You may well come across a really great deal on a used stationary power tool that requires 220 VAC power, as all the best ones do. Having 220 VAC available, will greatly increase the number of available quality used tools for sale to pick from and if you are going to spring for a new 10" table saw or other stationary power tool, the 220 VAC will enable your stationary tool to operate at its full potential
 
In addition to workbenches against the wall, I suggest you also acquire a free-standing workbench on locking casters that can be rolled around as the job requires. It should as big as you can make it, 8'X10', if possible, and be the same height as your table saw + router table (in the saw table extension) so the bench can serve as an extension table if needed. I've found a free-standing, solid, heavy, rolling table is necessary for working on things that are too large to fit on the wall-mounted bench, like furniture and model cases. Since you are planning on doing full-sized work, your rolling workbench should have a decent below the bench top woodworking vise mounted on it (preferably one with a raising bench-dog bar on it) and your wall-mounted bench should have the biggest machinist's vise the bench can handle (4" jaws minimum) very securely mounted on a corner of the wall-mounted bench. (Think in terms of something that will hold a workpiece rock steady while you really put your back into a pipe wrench with a breaker bar.) A large rolling workbench can have drawers and cabinets installed in the body of it for tool storage. The added weight of the tools contributes to the stability of the table.
 
Since this workshop area will be in the back of your garage, I'd suggest you provide a way to roll your free-standing workbench and stationary power tools out to the drive way or at least to the threshold of the garage doors and, if it's not a huge undertaking, that may involve running 120 and 220 VAC outlets closer to the doors. When this is possible, and with a large fan at your back, spray painting, powered sanding, table sawing, and other messy jobs can be done without resorting to an expensive built-in sawdust and shavings vacuum system. The fan will blow a large amount of the airborne fine dust outside and save you a lot of shop cleanup time. (This practice is subject to the circumstances however... Some neighbors take exception to late-night power tool operating noise and perceive a cloud of sawdust drifting towards their front porch like it was mustard gas.) 
 
As your new workshop in the garage is presumably attached to the house and not removed some inconvenient distance away, you will almost certainly encounter the problem of household members employing your shop benches and tabletops... indeed any available horizontal surface in your shop... as a place to dump whatever they don't want to be inside the house at any given moment. Alas, as hard as I've tried, I've never discovered a solution to this problem that didn't involve getting a divorce. If anybody's solved this problem, please share your secret!  

If it just going to be for ship modeling,  a bench top that is robust enough to stand up to a ball-pene hammer or need to use a full size hand saw is not likely to be necessary.
 
Will you be always standing or sitting on a bar stool?  If yes, then knee room is not a factor.
 
Bench top depth is very helpful.  Determine how far back you can comfortably reach and make it at least that deep.
A 4"-6" high back splash helps  stop loss over the back. 
110V outlets that are above back splash height - and more of them than you think you will need.  If you want to splurge, make each of them have their own individual ON/OFF rocker switch.
 
Longer is better.
 
Drop down - foot locking castors - 4 of them  - the back ones - give a thought to how to get at them - if you do not have them, there will likely come a time when you wish that you did.
 
A provision for shop vac hoses makes life easier.
Life is easier if the machine in use is the only one on the bench top.
Strong sliding out shelves under the bench is a handy place to store them.  Being able to lift them straight down or up allows for easier storage. 
There is significant weight so the shelf support strength may make this impractical.  But in any case,  being able to easily park tools not in use under the bench is helpful  
For my Byrnes saw, I bought a wooden box from Michaels to store all of the wrenches, blades, etc.  I PVAed a wooden block under the lid and drilled hole to hold all the the needed Allen wrenches.  No digging for the often needed tools.
 
Even though you may never have a need to hand plane the edge of a 6' -8' board,  an under the bench top vise has uses.  A quick release  feature may be frivolous - but going economy leads to frustration.   Poorly made one tend to rack when they are tightened.   
I bought a 2x12 plank and cut it up to be a series of bases for various full size tools that are usually fixed to the bench top.
A grinder,  a machinist's vise,  a bare one for pounding on.  an old B&D drill press that is actually powered by a hand drill motor - it is an inheritance.  all are occasional tools.   I used lag screws to attach a piece of 2x4 or 2x6 at a right angle under the front of the 12" deck so that the under the bench vise could hold everything as though it was directly bolted to the bench top.
 
Under the top drawers - I used wire basket rectangles - for sandpaper sheets and big boxes holding small boxes of screws.

If it just going to be for ship modeling,  a bench top that is robust enough to stand up to a ball-pene hammer or need to use a full size hand saw is not likely to be necessary.
 
Will you be always standing or sitting on a bar stool?  If yes, then knee room is not a factor.
 
Bench top depth is very helpful.  Determine how far back you can comfortably reach and make it at least that deep.
A 4"-6" high back splash helps  stop loss over the back. 
110V outlets that are above back splash height - and more of them than you think you will need.  If you want to splurge, make each of them have their own individual ON/OFF rocker switch.
 
Longer is better.
 
Drop down - foot locking castors - 4 of them  - the back ones - give a thought to how to get at them - if you do not have them, there will likely come a time when you wish that you did.
 
A provision for shop vac hoses makes life easier.
Life is easier if the machine in use is the only one on the bench top.
Strong sliding out shelves under the bench is a handy place to store them.  Being able to lift them straight down or up allows for easier storage. 
There is significant weight so the shelf support strength may make this impractical.  But in any case,  being able to easily park tools not in use under the bench is helpful  
For my Byrnes saw, I bought a wooden box from Michaels to store all of the wrenches, blades, etc.  I PVAed a wooden block under the lid and drilled hole to hold all the the needed Allen wrenches.  No digging for the often needed tools.
 
Even though you may never have a need to hand plane the edge of a 6' -8' board,  an under the bench top vise has uses.  A quick release  feature may be frivolous - but going economy leads to frustration.   Poorly made one tend to rack when they are tightened.   
I bought a 2x12 plank and cut it up to be a series of bases for various full size tools that are usually fixed to the bench top.
A grinder,  a machinist's vise,  a bare one for pounding on.  an old B&D drill press that is actually powered by a hand drill motor - it is an inheritance.  all are occasional tools.   I used lag screws to attach a piece of 2x4 or 2x6 at a right angle under the front of the 12" deck so that the under the bench vise could hold everything as though it was directly bolted to the bench top.
 
Under the top drawers - I used wire basket rectangles - for sandpaper sheets and big boxes holding small boxes of screws.

If it just going to be for ship modeling,  a bench top that is robust enough to stand up to a ball-pene hammer or need to use a full size hand saw is not likely to be necessary.
 
Will you be always standing or sitting on a bar stool?  If yes, then knee room is not a factor.
 
Bench top depth is very helpful.  Determine how far back you can comfortably reach and make it at least that deep.
A 4"-6" high back splash helps  stop loss over the back. 
110V outlets that are above back splash height - and more of them than you think you will need.  If you want to splurge, make each of them have their own individual ON/OFF rocker switch.
 
Longer is better.
 
Drop down - foot locking castors - 4 of them  - the back ones - give a thought to how to get at them - if you do not have them, there will likely come a time when you wish that you did.
 
A provision for shop vac hoses makes life easier.
Life is easier if the machine in use is the only one on the bench top.
Strong sliding out shelves under the bench is a handy place to store them.  Being able to lift them straight down or up allows for easier storage. 
There is significant weight so the shelf support strength may make this impractical.  But in any case,  being able to easily park tools not in use under the bench is helpful  
For my Byrnes saw, I bought a wooden box from Michaels to store all of the wrenches, blades, etc.  I PVAed a wooden block under the lid and drilled hole to hold all the the needed Allen wrenches.  No digging for the often needed tools.
 
Even though you may never have a need to hand plane the edge of a 6' -8' board,  an under the bench top vise has uses.  A quick release  feature may be frivolous - but going economy leads to frustration.   Poorly made one tend to rack when they are tightened.   
I bought a 2x12 plank and cut it up to be a series of bases for various full size tools that are usually fixed to the bench top.
A grinder,  a machinist's vise,  a bare one for pounding on.  an old B&D drill press that is actually powered by a hand drill motor - it is an inheritance.  all are occasional tools.   I used lag screws to attach a piece of 2x4 or 2x6 at a right angle under the front of the 12" deck so that the under the bench vise could hold everything as though it was directly bolted to the bench top.
 
Under the top drawers - I used wire basket rectangles - for sandpaper sheets and big boxes holding small boxes of screws.

If it just going to be for ship modeling,  a bench top that is robust enough to stand up to a ball-pene hammer or need to use a full size hand saw is not likely to be necessary.
 
Will you be always standing or sitting on a bar stool?  If yes, then knee room is not a factor.
 
Bench top depth is very helpful.  Determine how far back you can comfortably reach and make it at least that deep.
A 4"-6" high back splash helps  stop loss over the back. 
110V outlets that are above back splash height - and more of them than you think you will need.  If you want to splurge, make each of them have their own individual ON/OFF rocker switch.
 
Longer is better.
 
Drop down - foot locking castors - 4 of them  - the back ones - give a thought to how to get at them - if you do not have them, there will likely come a time when you wish that you did.
 
A provision for shop vac hoses makes life easier.
Life is easier if the machine in use is the only one on the bench top.
Strong sliding out shelves under the bench is a handy place to store them.  Being able to lift them straight down or up allows for easier storage. 
There is significant weight so the shelf support strength may make this impractical.  But in any case,  being able to easily park tools not in use under the bench is helpful  
For my Byrnes saw, I bought a wooden box from Michaels to store all of the wrenches, blades, etc.  I PVAed a wooden block under the lid and drilled hole to hold all the the needed Allen wrenches.  No digging for the often needed tools.
 
Even though you may never have a need to hand plane the edge of a 6' -8' board,  an under the bench top vise has uses.  A quick release  feature may be frivolous - but going economy leads to frustration.   Poorly made one tend to rack when they are tightened.   
I bought a 2x12 plank and cut it up to be a series of bases for various full size tools that are usually fixed to the bench top.
A grinder,  a machinist's vise,  a bare one for pounding on.  an old B&D drill press that is actually powered by a hand drill motor - it is an inheritance.  all are occasional tools.   I used lag screws to attach a piece of 2x4 or 2x6 at a right angle under the front of the 12" deck so that the under the bench vise could hold everything as though it was directly bolted to the bench top.
 
Under the top drawers - I used wire basket rectangles - for sandpaper sheets and big boxes holding small boxes of screws.

In reference to the last question in the title:  Am I alone in this?
While it works about as well as can be wished for iron and steel,  plastic is |absolutely| unconvincing and inappropriate in representing wood. 
So the answer is: No.

Another old old suggestion (I do no remember the author)  was to chisel a flap of wood, drill the hole under the flap, and when all was done, counter sink the pin and glue the flap back down.   Wait!  I think that was for Oak quarter round.

It does not come down to any sort of comparative contest.  About the only way to get a proper run of planking strakes on a hull is for them to have proper support that is also fared to the proper conformation.  A support that is 50% room and 50% space is probably right at the bitter edge of being enough.  A support that is a single edge of narrow plywood and with it being mostly weak end grain is potential disaster.
 
This means filling between every mold.   The common method of using supposedly easy to shape Basswood or (don't do it!) Balsa is easy to fit between the molds  in a horizontal orientation-  disc sander.    But beyond this point it is seriously difficult the pare down and shape.  You are working on the whole hull.  It would probably be easier to have just done the hull as carved WL layers.
Doing the filling with construction Pine in a vertical orientation is easier.  It requires some basic lofting, but using existing lines. It is rough and near final shaped as individual units off the hull.
 
Using pins as clamps when the support is end grain ply seems like a path of endless frustration.  
I question whether your base kit is of sufficient quality to earn the privilege of having a bare wood hull. It probably needs to be painted.
1:84 is too small a scale to even think about having visible trunnels.  
If you choose trunnels, it is all or none.   Proper number per land in the proper orientation.
All brass or all bamboo or a mixture has precedent with models from the past.   Steel pins is a total disaster.  We live on a water planet.
 
Do the best you are able with the kit that you have,  but it is best to consider it a learning exercise.  sows ear - silk purse

The warped piece of plywood is telling you what shape it "wants" to take to be in equilibrium.  It can be flattened but it will be recidivant.
 
1. -Punt.
Replace it.   Quick check  Home Depot has  1/4" x 2' x2'  Poplar faced or Maple faced for $9.  A fret saw will allow you to free the new mold by hand.   Doing this will demonstrate that you are more independent from the kit maker than you realize.
 
2.   scab it with straight supports on either side.   something like 1/4" x 1/4".   two parallel rows  -  PVA - and using bamboo skewers as dowels.
The tricky part is cutting the openings in the central spine for the supports and then gluing it all.  What with the dowel insertion  and the clamping, the repaired mold will have to be applied to the spine before the two or so molds on either side of it.

It does not come down to any sort of comparative contest.  About the only way to get a proper run of planking strakes on a hull is for them to have proper support that is also fared to the proper conformation.  A support that is 50% room and 50% space is probably right at the bitter edge of being enough.  A support that is a single edge of narrow plywood and with it being mostly weak end grain is potential disaster.
 
This means filling between every mold.   The common method of using supposedly easy to shape Basswood or (don't do it!) Balsa is easy to fit between the molds  in a horizontal orientation-  disc sander.    But beyond this point it is seriously difficult the pare down and shape.  You are working on the whole hull.  It would probably be easier to have just done the hull as carved WL layers.
Doing the filling with construction Pine in a vertical orientation is easier.  It requires some basic lofting, but using existing lines. It is rough and near final shaped as individual units off the hull.
 
Using pins as clamps when the support is end grain ply seems like a path of endless frustration.  
I question whether your base kit is of sufficient quality to earn the privilege of having a bare wood hull. It probably needs to be painted.
1:84 is too small a scale to even think about having visible trunnels.  
If you choose trunnels, it is all or none.   Proper number per land in the proper orientation.
All brass or all bamboo or a mixture has precedent with models from the past.   Steel pins is a total disaster.  We live on a water planet.
 
Do the best you are able with the kit that you have,  but it is best to consider it a learning exercise.  sows ear - silk purse

It does not come down to any sort of comparative contest.  About the only way to get a proper run of planking strakes on a hull is for them to have proper support that is also fared to the proper conformation.  A support that is 50% room and 50% space is probably right at the bitter edge of being enough.  A support that is a single edge of narrow plywood and with it being mostly weak end grain is potential disaster.
 
This means filling between every mold.   The common method of using supposedly easy to shape Basswood or (don't do it!) Balsa is easy to fit between the molds  in a horizontal orientation-  disc sander.    But beyond this point it is seriously difficult the pare down and shape.  You are working on the whole hull.  It would probably be easier to have just done the hull as carved WL layers.
Doing the filling with construction Pine in a vertical orientation is easier.  It requires some basic lofting, but using existing lines. It is rough and near final shaped as individual units off the hull.
 
Using pins as clamps when the support is end grain ply seems like a path of endless frustration.  
I question whether your base kit is of sufficient quality to earn the privilege of having a bare wood hull. It probably needs to be painted.
1:84 is too small a scale to even think about having visible trunnels.  
If you choose trunnels, it is all or none.   Proper number per land in the proper orientation.
All brass or all bamboo or a mixture has precedent with models from the past.   Steel pins is a total disaster.  We live on a water planet.
 
Do the best you are able with the kit that you have,  but it is best to consider it a learning exercise.  sows ear - silk purse

Take the following as unverified suspicion - not fact
OcCre Polaris is probably a fantasy as far as representing an actual ship.  The source of the lines may be a real vessel - but one without marketing value.
My observation of various OcCre product build logs - and the frequency of the same wrong detail choices - leads me to believe that the company plays fast and loose when it comes to actual shipbuilding practice.   If you start with OcCre and you later have an interest in being historically accurate,  you may have to unlearn a series of bad habits and bad practices.

Take the following as unverified suspicion - not fact
OcCre Polaris is probably a fantasy as far as representing an actual ship.  The source of the lines may be a real vessel - but one without marketing value.
My observation of various OcCre product build logs - and the frequency of the same wrong detail choices - leads me to believe that the company plays fast and loose when it comes to actual shipbuilding practice.   If you start with OcCre and you later have an interest in being historically accurate,  you may have to unlearn a series of bad habits and bad practices.

I also have one and it is the tool that best does the job of fairing the frames in the hold of the several tools that seem like they could. 
Would a lighter touch produce less wear on the gear?  The tool will produce impressive volumes of dust and the job being done is a finesse sort that I prefer to do inside on a comfortable chair.

Take the following as unverified suspicion - not fact
OcCre Polaris is probably a fantasy as far as representing an actual ship.  The source of the lines may be a real vessel - but one without marketing value.
My observation of various OcCre product build logs - and the frequency of the same wrong detail choices - leads me to believe that the company plays fast and loose when it comes to actual shipbuilding practice.   If you start with OcCre and you later have an interest in being historically accurate,  you may have to unlearn a series of bad habits and bad practices.

I also have one and it is the tool that best does the job of fairing the frames in the hold of the several tools that seem like they could. 
Would a lighter touch produce less wear on the gear?  The tool will produce impressive volumes of dust and the job being done is a finesse sort that I prefer to do inside on a comfortable chair.

The TX is 1/3HP,  has a speed range of 500-15,000
This offers more power and control in the low range.  I do not think that 30,000 RPM is a wood thing.
 
I have desk top because I want to have the cutter moving as it comes at the wood.
I use a momentary foot switch with my drill press, because I want the drill bit to be on the drill site- (awl made starter hole) before I start the spin.   There are two stage speed controllers - so that once you have a favorite speed - it is not lost when turning the motor off.
 
Both of the main ones?   
StewMac has accessories  that require a hand piece that they supply -  course threads at the tip.
Two style router tables -   The high end one I mounted as a table to cut a rabbet.
There is also a block with 90 degree and 45 degree hand piece holders -  to vise mount the tool.
I think it is the thinner hand piece, so that if you do not mind the threads for hand held work, the Foredom sold one is not needed.
 
which ever one the hand pieces you buy require?
 
get the bench mount-   The bale does not cost much, so you can buy that just in case.
I bought a fold down shelf bracket  to hold the bale.   If there is a wall close behind your bench, this works.  There are hold along the support so there is adjustment.   The brackets come in pairs, so if both are mounted, you will have L/R options.
 
My problem with the 90 degree adapter is the it extends out too far.   The main job that I was after is fairing the frames inside the hull.   What I really want is a 45 degree tool mount and that seems to be a unicorn.
 
I think that I will find a belt sander to be a "it seemed like a good idea at the time" tool that may not be engineered for our sort of loads.
 
The drill press is surprisingly robust.  I had the money to burn, but as long as my DRL 3000 holds on, it will be a backup.  The hand pieces are designed for side loads, so the drill press could be a safe mill for the sort of wood milling that we do.  But then, there would have to be an XY table and a vise and the back clearance is tight.

The TX is 1/3HP,  has a speed range of 500-15,000
This offers more power and control in the low range.  I do not think that 30,000 RPM is a wood thing.
 
I have desk top because I want to have the cutter moving as it comes at the wood.
I use a momentary foot switch with my drill press, because I want the drill bit to be on the drill site- (awl made starter hole) before I start the spin.   There are two stage speed controllers - so that once you have a favorite speed - it is not lost when turning the motor off.
 
Both of the main ones?   
StewMac has accessories  that require a hand piece that they supply -  course threads at the tip.
Two style router tables -   The high end one I mounted as a table to cut a rabbet.
There is also a block with 90 degree and 45 degree hand piece holders -  to vise mount the tool.
I think it is the thinner hand piece, so that if you do not mind the threads for hand held work, the Foredom sold one is not needed.
 
which ever one the hand pieces you buy require?
 
get the bench mount-   The bale does not cost much, so you can buy that just in case.
I bought a fold down shelf bracket  to hold the bale.   If there is a wall close behind your bench, this works.  There are hold along the support so there is adjustment.   The brackets come in pairs, so if both are mounted, you will have L/R options.
 
My problem with the 90 degree adapter is the it extends out too far.   The main job that I was after is fairing the frames inside the hull.   What I really want is a 45 degree tool mount and that seems to be a unicorn.
 
I think that I will find a belt sander to be a "it seemed like a good idea at the time" tool that may not be engineered for our sort of loads.
 
The drill press is surprisingly robust.  I had the money to burn, but as long as my DRL 3000 holds on, it will be a backup.  The hand pieces are designed for side loads, so the drill press could be a safe mill for the sort of wood milling that we do.  But then, there would have to be an XY table and a vise and the back clearance is tight.

The TX is 1/3HP,  has a speed range of 500-15,000
This offers more power and control in the low range.  I do not think that 30,000 RPM is a wood thing.
 
I have desk top because I want to have the cutter moving as it comes at the wood.
I use a momentary foot switch with my drill press, because I want the drill bit to be on the drill site- (awl made starter hole) before I start the spin.   There are two stage speed controllers - so that once you have a favorite speed - it is not lost when turning the motor off.
 
Both of the main ones?   
StewMac has accessories  that require a hand piece that they supply -  course threads at the tip.
Two style router tables -   The high end one I mounted as a table to cut a rabbet.
There is also a block with 90 degree and 45 degree hand piece holders -  to vise mount the tool.
I think it is the thinner hand piece, so that if you do not mind the threads for hand held work, the Foredom sold one is not needed.
 
which ever one the hand pieces you buy require?
 
get the bench mount-   The bale does not cost much, so you can buy that just in case.
I bought a fold down shelf bracket  to hold the bale.   If there is a wall close behind your bench, this works.  There are hold along the support so there is adjustment.   The brackets come in pairs, so if both are mounted, you will have L/R options.
 
My problem with the 90 degree adapter is the it extends out too far.   The main job that I was after is fairing the frames inside the hull.   What I really want is a 45 degree tool mount and that seems to be a unicorn.
 
I think that I will find a belt sander to be a "it seemed like a good idea at the time" tool that may not be engineered for our sort of loads.
 
The drill press is surprisingly robust.  I had the money to burn, but as long as my DRL 3000 holds on, it will be a backup.  The hand pieces are designed for side loads, so the drill press could be a safe mill for the sort of wood milling that we do.  But then, there would have to be an XY table and a vise and the back clearance is tight.

The TX is 1/3HP,  has a speed range of 500-15,000
This offers more power and control in the low range.  I do not think that 30,000 RPM is a wood thing.
 
I have desk top because I want to have the cutter moving as it comes at the wood.
I use a momentary foot switch with my drill press, because I want the drill bit to be on the drill site- (awl made starter hole) before I start the spin.   There are two stage speed controllers - so that once you have a favorite speed - it is not lost when turning the motor off.
 
Both of the main ones?   
StewMac has accessories  that require a hand piece that they supply -  course threads at the tip.
Two style router tables -   The high end one I mounted as a table to cut a rabbet.
There is also a block with 90 degree and 45 degree hand piece holders -  to vise mount the tool.
I think it is the thinner hand piece, so that if you do not mind the threads for hand held work, the Foredom sold one is not needed.
 
which ever one the hand pieces you buy require?
 
get the bench mount-   The bale does not cost much, so you can buy that just in case.
I bought a fold down shelf bracket  to hold the bale.   If there is a wall close behind your bench, this works.  There are hold along the support so there is adjustment.   The brackets come in pairs, so if both are mounted, you will have L/R options.
 
My problem with the 90 degree adapter is the it extends out too far.   The main job that I was after is fairing the frames inside the hull.   What I really want is a 45 degree tool mount and that seems to be a unicorn.
 
I think that I will find a belt sander to be a "it seemed like a good idea at the time" tool that may not be engineered for our sort of loads.
 
The drill press is surprisingly robust.  I had the money to burn, but as long as my DRL 3000 holds on, it will be a backup.  The hand pieces are designed for side loads, so the drill press could be a safe mill for the sort of wood milling that we do.  But then, there would have to be an XY table and a vise and the back clearance is tight.

Chuck,
When looking around the Wood Database  it looks to me that the species of Holly readily available in Europe is not snow white.  It is closer to Pine,  which would make the European species sort of realistic as deck planking.   As far as I can tell, there is no species of wood  commercially available for full size decking that is even close to snow white.
 
I wonder if a translation error is in play here.  I made a similar error when I mistook what Underhill meant when he recommended Sycamore - which for him was a species of Maple that is about 80-90% of the way to Hard Maple.  I thought he meant the American Sycamore species.  It is similar in color to Maple, and it is hard enough but not as hard,  but the grain is highly figured ( Lacewood), it stinks,  the grain fibers want to roll.
All in all sort of foul stuff.

The NRG saw jig is a small device that sits in a slot on the saw table.  Its function is to allow you use the side of the blade opposite the fence as the area where the finished slices are generated.  The small slices do not get bound between the blade and the fence and turned into a missile shot back at you - kickback.   The downside is that the fence has to be moved toward the blade after every slice.
 
Bob Cleek suggests using the eraser end of an old style wooden pencil as a push stick.  It does have a better friction hold.  I do say that a metal push stick is a very bad ideal.  I had to pay to have a carbide tooth welded back on to a Freud blade  because I used one.
 
As for a bandsaw,  - turning a large piece of lumber or a log section into rough stock thickness slices is termed 'resawing'.  Any 9" or 10" bench top bandsaw will be too under powered to be a serious resawing machine.  It takes a big boy floor model saw.  Going low end is false economy.  A machine that has enough power to drive the blade thru a thick piece of wood and engineered to keep the blade from moving while doing the work you ask of it is what is wanted.  If you have such a machine and the blade starts wandering or canting,  it is likely because the blade has become dull.
 
AP - after perpendicular
FP   fore perpenducular
These define the part of the hull that contains the frames.   Short hand naval architecture terms.
 
Scratch POF pretty much requires serious knowledge of basic naval architecture.  Serious scratch POF uses a lot of wood for the frames.  It is much less expensive than kits if you do more than a few hulls and you have the machinery to be your own saw mill.   It helps to be young, but harvesting your own lumber from near by trees really cuts down on the cost of wood.  It also gives access to wood species that are not commercially available  like Apple - the king.  
 
The bleeding from a table saw accident is probably the least of it.  The parts that have been amputated is worse.  I don't think we have access to a Niven autodoc to fix that.

The NRG saw jig is a small device that sits in a slot on the saw table.  Its function is to allow you use the side of the blade opposite the fence as the area where the finished slices are generated.  The small slices do not get bound between the blade and the fence and turned into a missile shot back at you - kickback.   The downside is that the fence has to be moved toward the blade after every slice.
 
Bob Cleek suggests using the eraser end of an old style wooden pencil as a push stick.  It does have a better friction hold.  I do say that a metal push stick is a very bad ideal.  I had to pay to have a carbide tooth welded back on to a Freud blade  because I used one.
 
As for a bandsaw,  - turning a large piece of lumber or a log section into rough stock thickness slices is termed 'resawing'.  Any 9" or 10" bench top bandsaw will be too under powered to be a serious resawing machine.  It takes a big boy floor model saw.  Going low end is false economy.  A machine that has enough power to drive the blade thru a thick piece of wood and engineered to keep the blade from moving while doing the work you ask of it is what is wanted.  If you have such a machine and the blade starts wandering or canting,  it is likely because the blade has become dull.
 
AP - after perpendicular
FP   fore perpenducular
These define the part of the hull that contains the frames.   Short hand naval architecture terms.
 
Scratch POF pretty much requires serious knowledge of basic naval architecture.  Serious scratch POF uses a lot of wood for the frames.  It is much less expensive than kits if you do more than a few hulls and you have the machinery to be your own saw mill.   It helps to be young, but harvesting your own lumber from near by trees really cuts down on the cost of wood.  It also gives access to wood species that are not commercially available  like Apple - the king.  
 
The bleeding from a table saw accident is probably the least of it.  The parts that have been amputated is worse.  I don't think we have access to a Niven autodoc to fix that.