RossR

I know you put the production of your ropewalk on hold due to tariff issues, any plans to reprice it and start production again. I might be interested in paying a few dollars more to get one.

I have built two Occre ships with the 0.6 mm second layer material, I wish you the best of luck trying to bend the material laterally, but I haven’t seen anyone pull it off successfully on the forum. if you figure out a method that works please post about it. A lot of users would be interested. Good luck.

I posted some pictures of my shipyard a year or so ago, but over the weekend I make some changes. The two work surfaces used to be opposite of each other with the took box in between. I decided to create an L shaped work surface to take better advantage of the light from the window. I still have my comfortable chair for watching the Premier League on Saturday and Sunday mornings.

I was just looking at my Beagle, and with the boat mounted on the deck you can barely see the windlass. Your work looks so good you may want to consider not mounting the boat so you can see the other features better.

Your workmanship is fantastic. I really like the way your windlass turned out.

I really like the look of individual planks vs drawing the joints. Great job.

Your build looks fantastic. I think Occre does a great job on these street car and tram models. Can't wait to continue following your progress.

Fairing the interior of the bulwarks is going slow, but I am starting to make some progress. I have been practicing working with Syren's 3/32 blocks that I hope to use for the rigging on the guns. These are incredibly small and after many attempts that failed I am starting to get some better results. This is one of the first almost passable attempts I made. The rope is .008 inch diameter. I am struggling to get the rope through the holes on the blocks, so I have been drilling the holes out. I am trying to use the techniques Chuck has shared using CA to help secure the block. This attempt is a little shinier than I would like from the CA used. I am using 150 weight Gutterman Mara thread for the sizing. I was hoping to use some that was even thinner, but I am struggling to find any in the US. Chuck shared a reseller in the UK that sells it, but I am a little nervous about navigating the tariff mess we now all have to live with right now. This is another attempt that I am a little happier with. I made the hooks from small Brass eyepins. They measure about 1/8 inch long. I would like them to be a little smaller, but I don't think I can make them any smaller. I have ordered some 1/8 inch blocks from Syren. If the .008 inch rope with fit through the holes on those without being drilled out, and they don't look too big I might use them instead of the 3/32 to avoid having to do all the drilling. I suspect in the end I will drill out the 3/32 inch blocks to keep things in the proper scale.

I have been practicing with 3/32 inch (2.5mm) for my USF Essex and I can attest to how difficult it is working with blocks this small. Practicing is helping. I have some time before I am ready to rig the guns.

I think they look pretty good. Keep it up.

I have made repairs to the gun port frames that ended up a little concave due to my aggressive sanding. Here is a picture showing what I am talking about. After adding a piece of 1/32 inch or in a couple cases 1/16 inch material I sanded them flush using a finer grit wheel on my Dremel. 120 and 240 were used. Now on to the interior work on the gun port frames.

I haven’t had the pleasure of working with most of the woods you are listing, but with those options I would leave basswood off the list.

Thanks I appreciate the tip. In my post about the outsides I said I started with 60 grit disks. After further inspection of my work, that was a little aggressive. Some of my lintels and sills have a concave surface that I will be addressing this weekend. I will include pictures of the issue and the fix on my next post.

Thanks for sharing this. Considering upgrading the cannons on my current build. I will check this KTL model shop a look.

I have made some progress on sanding the gun port frames on the outside of the hull. I used a disk sander on my Dremel. I used a 60 grit disk for parts were a lot of material needed to be removed and then 120 grit for the finer work. I still need to do a little fine sanding. A the bow I needed to add extra material to get the curve of the bow right. I still need to sand the extra material down. I also need to start the interior. This will be a challenge as my Dremel, even with the flex tool will not reach into the interior with the disk sander. I am looking at purchasing the right angle attachment. getting into the bow and under the interior section that slopes toward the interior of the ship will be difficult. If anyone has any other suggestions for how to get in there to sand I would love to hear it. I can't wait to get this part done and start the planking.