Rustyj

Hi Mark -
 
Best of success with the small boat.  Since you are using a lift method for their hulls, here is a tip from Dynamite Payson that I have used with good success:  You probably know it already, but if not, it's one to add to your toolbox.
 
Once you have carved the outer shape of the boat, get a strong light source and hold the boat up to it as you carve the inner shape.  When it starts to get to the right thickness you will see light coming through.  The strength of the light will show you where you have different thicknesses of wood and where you have to thin it some more.
 
Hope that helps.
 
Dan

This ship's boat business is giving me serious pause for reflection.  I at first thought: "Well, I've got a couple of the ME low-budget ship's boat kits...."   But they are too generic and not right.  If I'm going to do this, I'm going to do it right.
 
This first pic shows the kit boat with a new keel I thought I'd use...
 

 
So it's in the scrap box...
 
I dug through Frolich's book, re-examined the plans, and also looked at the Bonhomme Richard plans.  Seems the French pretty much standardized what boats and sized them accordingly.  I dug some more on the best way to do this... Frolich, Bello, various builds here on MSW, etc.  Ah-ha!!! Lifts!
 
After scaling the plans appropriately for all three boats, I generated a set of lifts for the longboat.  The barge and cutter will follow if this works.     The other alternative is to generate a series of bulkheads/frames like Chuck designed for his boats but I'm trying the lifts first.  The one thing that I'll change between the plans and the build is the framing wood dimension.  The plans show the frames to be 1/32" X 1/32" (~0.5 mm).. I've tried but I can't cut wood that small, so I'll be using 1/16" X 1/16"(~1 mm) for the frames.  Here's where I am now... cutting out the lifts on wood of the appropriate thickness.  There's also a small pile of cherry cut to the frame size and a wide strip for the keel, etc.
 

 
Now to go see where this path leads.... 

Hi and thanks for the comments and likes.
 
As well as making the acrylic stands that will hold the stem/stern in place on the buildboard I have also started the stern framing.
 
Here is the all important Wing transom cut out of 18" stock and the 3" roundup sanded in so the piece is 15" all the way across. Now to start the shaping. I have left the ends 1/32 oversize to allow adjustment with the cant frame.
 
Ben

Thanks for stopping by Daniel.
 
Well I'm back and I have got a start on cutting the bulkheads out.
 
Care was used to ensure the plywood I have is free of warping. There are 27 bulkheads
to cut out. I used my standard method of cutting the individual bulkheads from the plans
and glued them one at a time to the plywood using a temporary paper craft glue. This
allows for removal of the plans should I so desire.
 
 
 
Once the bulkheads have been cut on the scroll saw I use my x-acto knife to score the
various reference lines that will be needed later. This is done just in case the plans are
removed from the bulkhead later.
 

 
I then take the bulkheads and make stacks of about 6 bulkheads of similar size and shape
and place a heavy weight on the to help ensure that they do not warp while I finish cutting
the remaining bulkheads and the former.
 

 
Well I'm off to cut more bulkheads out.  
 

Send along Ben. I can screw them up in a heart beat!  

Thanks for stopping by Daniel.
 
Well I'm back and I have got a start on cutting the bulkheads out.
 
Care was used to ensure the plywood I have is free of warping. There are 27 bulkheads
to cut out. I used my standard method of cutting the individual bulkheads from the plans
and glued them one at a time to the plywood using a temporary paper craft glue. This
allows for removal of the plans should I so desire.
 
 
 
Once the bulkheads have been cut on the scroll saw I use my x-acto knife to score the
various reference lines that will be needed later. This is done just in case the plans are
removed from the bulkhead later.
 

 
I then take the bulkheads and make stacks of about 6 bulkheads of similar size and shape
and place a heavy weight on the to help ensure that they do not warp while I finish cutting
the remaining bulkheads and the former.
 

 
Well I'm off to cut more bulkheads out.  
 

I have the distinct honor of being able to work with Chuck again on my  next project,
the HMS Winchelsea.  This is the same ship that Chuck is designing and currently
building. I cannot put into words my gratitude to Chuck for allowing me to participate
in his project. I will make every effort to build her as described in the plans and
practicum although I will never be able to reach the outstanding level of craftsmanship
Chuck has set.
 
 The HMS Winchelsea was launched in 1764 and is a Niger class 32 gun frigate. This
build will show how she appeared during the American Revolution. The model will be
fully rigged at 3/16" scale. I will be using various woods throughout the build but the
primary wood used will be Boxwood, Holly and Swiss Pear. All of these woods are
from Jeff at Hobby Mill.
 
As Chuck has very eloquently detailed his log and I could never reproduce that either.
I will just show how I worked my way through the build.
 
Here is a sample of some the plans that I will be using to build the Winchelsea.
 

 
The first step in the build will be to cut out and assemble the knee of the head. There are
eleven parts to the head knee assembly and they will all be cut from 3/16" Boxwood. The
pieces were rough cut with the scroll saw and finished with files, sandpaper and chisels.
To simulate the caulked joints.
 
Once assembled Chuck states " The entire assembly must be tapered. This taper extends
from the upper stem piece towards the bobstay piece.  The aft edge of the upper stem
should remain 3/16” thick.  It should gradually be reduced to 3/32” thick along the
forward edge of the bobstay piece. The taper is 3/32” at the top of the bobstay piece
but it also gradually widens back to 3/16” as it works its way down towards the cutwater. "
 
Hopefully you can see this taper in the photograph.
 

 
Next it will be time to cut out the bulkheads and the bulkhead former. These will all cut
from Birch 3/16" aircraft 4 ply plywood. As there are so many bulkheads, a total of 27,
I anticipate it taking a least a week to cut them out and fit them prior to gluing.
 
That is if my mind doesn't wander!  

I have the distinct honor of being able to work with Chuck again on my  next project,
the HMS Winchelsea.  This is the same ship that Chuck is designing and currently
building. I cannot put into words my gratitude to Chuck for allowing me to participate
in his project. I will make every effort to build her as described in the plans and
practicum although I will never be able to reach the outstanding level of craftsmanship
Chuck has set.
 
 The HMS Winchelsea was launched in 1764 and is a Niger class 32 gun frigate. This
build will show how she appeared during the American Revolution. The model will be
fully rigged at 3/16" scale. I will be using various woods throughout the build but the
primary wood used will be Boxwood, Holly and Swiss Pear. All of these woods are
from Jeff at Hobby Mill.
 
As Chuck has very eloquently detailed his log and I could never reproduce that either.
I will just show how I worked my way through the build.
 
Here is a sample of some the plans that I will be using to build the Winchelsea.
 

 
The first step in the build will be to cut out and assemble the knee of the head. There are
eleven parts to the head knee assembly and they will all be cut from 3/16" Boxwood. The
pieces were rough cut with the scroll saw and finished with files, sandpaper and chisels.
To simulate the caulked joints.
 
Once assembled Chuck states " The entire assembly must be tapered. This taper extends
from the upper stem piece towards the bobstay piece.  The aft edge of the upper stem
should remain 3/16” thick.  It should gradually be reduced to 3/32” thick along the
forward edge of the bobstay piece. The taper is 3/32” at the top of the bobstay piece
but it also gradually widens back to 3/16” as it works its way down towards the cutwater. "
 
Hopefully you can see this taper in the photograph.
 

 
Next it will be time to cut out the bulkheads and the bulkhead former. These will all cut
from Birch 3/16" aircraft 4 ply plywood. As there are so many bulkheads, a total of 27,
I anticipate it taking a least a week to cut them out and fit them prior to gluing.
 
That is if my mind doesn't wander!  

Moving along nicely Rusty, I'll send some of my Pegasus cant frames to you as you always seem to work twice as fast as me.
 
Ben

Thanks for stopping by Daniel.
 
Well I'm back and I have got a start on cutting the bulkheads out.
 
Care was used to ensure the plywood I have is free of warping. There are 27 bulkheads
to cut out. I used my standard method of cutting the individual bulkheads from the plans
and glued them one at a time to the plywood using a temporary paper craft glue. This
allows for removal of the plans should I so desire.
 
 
 
Once the bulkheads have been cut on the scroll saw I use my x-acto knife to score the
various reference lines that will be needed later. This is done just in case the plans are
removed from the bulkhead later.
 

 
I then take the bulkheads and make stacks of about 6 bulkheads of similar size and shape
and place a heavy weight on the to help ensure that they do not warp while I finish cutting
the remaining bulkheads and the former.
 

 
Well I'm off to cut more bulkheads out.  
 

Thanks for stopping by Daniel.
 
Well I'm back and I have got a start on cutting the bulkheads out.
 
Care was used to ensure the plywood I have is free of warping. There are 27 bulkheads
to cut out. I used my standard method of cutting the individual bulkheads from the plans
and glued them one at a time to the plywood using a temporary paper craft glue. This
allows for removal of the plans should I so desire.
 
 
 
Once the bulkheads have been cut on the scroll saw I use my x-acto knife to score the
various reference lines that will be needed later. This is done just in case the plans are
removed from the bulkhead later.
 

 
I then take the bulkheads and make stacks of about 6 bulkheads of similar size and shape
and place a heavy weight on the to help ensure that they do not warp while I finish cutting
the remaining bulkheads and the former.
 

 
Well I'm off to cut more bulkheads out.  
 

Thanks for stopping by Daniel.
 
Well I'm back and I have got a start on cutting the bulkheads out.
 
Care was used to ensure the plywood I have is free of warping. There are 27 bulkheads
to cut out. I used my standard method of cutting the individual bulkheads from the plans
and glued them one at a time to the plywood using a temporary paper craft glue. This
allows for removal of the plans should I so desire.
 
 
 
Once the bulkheads have been cut on the scroll saw I use my x-acto knife to score the
various reference lines that will be needed later. This is done just in case the plans are
removed from the bulkhead later.
 

 
I then take the bulkheads and make stacks of about 6 bulkheads of similar size and shape
and place a heavy weight on the to help ensure that they do not warp while I finish cutting
the remaining bulkheads and the former.
 

 
Well I'm off to cut more bulkheads out.  
 

Thanks for stopping by Daniel.
 
Well I'm back and I have got a start on cutting the bulkheads out.
 
Care was used to ensure the plywood I have is free of warping. There are 27 bulkheads
to cut out. I used my standard method of cutting the individual bulkheads from the plans
and glued them one at a time to the plywood using a temporary paper craft glue. This
allows for removal of the plans should I so desire.
 
 
 
Once the bulkheads have been cut on the scroll saw I use my x-acto knife to score the
various reference lines that will be needed later. This is done just in case the plans are
removed from the bulkhead later.
 

 
I then take the bulkheads and make stacks of about 6 bulkheads of similar size and shape
and place a heavy weight on the to help ensure that they do not warp while I finish cutting
the remaining bulkheads and the former.
 

 
Well I'm off to cut more bulkheads out.  
 

Thanks for stopping by Daniel.
 
Well I'm back and I have got a start on cutting the bulkheads out.
 
Care was used to ensure the plywood I have is free of warping. There are 27 bulkheads
to cut out. I used my standard method of cutting the individual bulkheads from the plans
and glued them one at a time to the plywood using a temporary paper craft glue. This
allows for removal of the plans should I so desire.
 
 
 
Once the bulkheads have been cut on the scroll saw I use my x-acto knife to score the
various reference lines that will be needed later. This is done just in case the plans are
removed from the bulkhead later.
 

 
I then take the bulkheads and make stacks of about 6 bulkheads of similar size and shape
and place a heavy weight on the to help ensure that they do not warp while I finish cutting
the remaining bulkheads and the former.
 

 
Well I'm off to cut more bulkheads out.  
 

I have the distinct honor of being able to work with Chuck again on my  next project,
the HMS Winchelsea.  This is the same ship that Chuck is designing and currently
building. I cannot put into words my gratitude to Chuck for allowing me to participate
in his project. I will make every effort to build her as described in the plans and
practicum although I will never be able to reach the outstanding level of craftsmanship
Chuck has set.
 
 The HMS Winchelsea was launched in 1764 and is a Niger class 32 gun frigate. This
build will show how she appeared during the American Revolution. The model will be
fully rigged at 3/16" scale. I will be using various woods throughout the build but the
primary wood used will be Boxwood, Holly and Swiss Pear. All of these woods are
from Jeff at Hobby Mill.
 
As Chuck has very eloquently detailed his log and I could never reproduce that either.
I will just show how I worked my way through the build.
 
Here is a sample of some the plans that I will be using to build the Winchelsea.
 

 
The first step in the build will be to cut out and assemble the knee of the head. There are
eleven parts to the head knee assembly and they will all be cut from 3/16" Boxwood. The
pieces were rough cut with the scroll saw and finished with files, sandpaper and chisels.
To simulate the caulked joints.
 
Once assembled Chuck states " The entire assembly must be tapered. This taper extends
from the upper stem piece towards the bobstay piece.  The aft edge of the upper stem
should remain 3/16” thick.  It should gradually be reduced to 3/32” thick along the
forward edge of the bobstay piece. The taper is 3/32” at the top of the bobstay piece
but it also gradually widens back to 3/16” as it works its way down towards the cutwater. "
 
Hopefully you can see this taper in the photograph.
 

 
Next it will be time to cut out the bulkheads and the bulkhead former. These will all cut
from Birch 3/16" aircraft 4 ply plywood. As there are so many bulkheads, a total of 27,
I anticipate it taking a least a week to cut them out and fit them prior to gluing.
 
That is if my mind doesn't wander!  

Thanks Pete, Paddy and Grant.
 
 
 
 
Hi Ben, OK here is how I do it and is by no means a tutorial on how to do it.
Just a way that works for me.
 
Here are the tools. The top is a U.J. Ramelson chisel. Next is the x-acto blade
with the tip broken off (usually I get this from the sharp blade as I break the tip
while using it  ) and the bottom is a regular x-acto blade.
 

 
First I score the beam at the correct location
 

 
and then widen it to the proper width using the pointed x-acto.
 

 
Next I cut down each side
 

 
And then horizontally with the broken tipped x-acto down to the desired depth.
 

 
Then I use the chisel to clean it up.
 

 
And here is one roughly done. I fine tune them as I cut and fit each piece to them.
 

 
I hope this helps.
 
 

Thanks Joss, Larry, Runner63 and Grant.
 
No lathe yet Grant. Hopefully some day I’ll get one.
 
Well all of the gun deck beams are in place. And some light sanding
has been done. Next I’ll be working on all of those knees. Then I’ll have
to do all of the carlings and ledges.
 
That’ll keep me busy for a while!  

Thanks all. It's great to be back.
 
 
Coming up I'll be talking about treenailing the
inboard planking. I used a Dremel Stylus, with lithium-ion battery, that I
received for my birthday. Thanks to the Admiral for that one.
 
 
So having used it only occasionally so far I thought I would put to the test.
I gave it a full charge and then started drilling treenails. Over several days
I drill over 1100 treenails without recharging. Finally before I reached the
1200 mark the charge gave out. I couldn't have been more pleased. Now I
have a good sense how much drilling I can do before losing a charge. And
quite honestly I don't see a time I would drill that many treenails without
stopping so that adds a bit of comfort.
 


 
 
So now here I have the start of a row of trenails.
 

 
 
And now here are all the treenails added and sanded down.
 

 
Now awhile ago it was mentioned to me that I had not added the holes and
cuts for the limber boards. As they were not on the original plans I didn't
give them a thought. After looking at some other builders who did include
them I though I'd give it a go.
 

 
Not as good as Chad's and some of the others but I'm happy.
 
Well that brings me up to date and now it's on to framing the lower gun deck.
 



 
 
 


 

Here is the wales and hull planking 
 
I found 1 picture I forgot to repost and added it to the end. It shows the strip
I used to line up my treenail marks.

Thanks for the "likes"...
 
Sam,
I'm happy with the way this is going.  Really happy. 
 
Mobbsie,
I was hoping for some wise words... but I'm glad you like what you see. 
 
 
Update time,  yippee!!!
 
The backbone is complete.  (Almost.. forgot to finish trim the keel at the stern according to the picture).  The stem has been appropriately (I think) tapered and now attached to the keel.   The deadwood was made from the cherry since I didn't have any boxwood thin enough and attached along with the sternpost.   And, an rudder blank has been made. 
 
I discovered that misinterpreted the plans on V 1.0 for the stern deadwood and the sternpost.  The deadwood on V 2.0 isn't tapered but the sternpost and keel need to be.  It appears that the best way will be after planking when the planks, keel and sternpost can all be done at once.  Or least that's the way it appears in the Hahn photos.... 
 
I can now go wander off and fiddle with cleaning up the salvage parts, maybe make some bits and pieces, etc. while waiting for my framing wood to show up. 
 

Hi Mark, I guess I'm very productive then cause I've surely made a mess.
 
No thumb twiddling going on here although work has gotten in the way a bit. As
suggested I cut as deep as I could and the used a jewelers blade to finish the cut.
 
Here is the first barrel painted and just set in the carriage.
 

 

 
 
Now comes the fun part! Trying to duplicate a second barrel that comes close to the first.  

Thank you all for stopping by and the likes.
 
Thanks Dubz.
 
Mark I wouldn't want to be standing next to when it was fired let alone be down range
when she let loose!
 
Thanks Bob I am really happy with how she looks.
 
Hi Grant. Sorry to disappoint but I played with one 1/2" dowel while waiting for the rod to arrive.
 
Now I will make a confession. Machine equipment is no stranger to me. When I was a
young'in I had training in machining engines. I could bore an engine block, hone a cylinder
or machine a head to a couple of thousandths. I just never played with a lathe. Also it's
been 37 plus years since I used any of that equipment  so I wasn't sure if any feel was left.
 
Now all you lathe users I have a bit of a bone to pick with you! No one ever mentioned how
messy these things are. Now I'm no neat freak by any means but man it makes a mess.
 

 
Here is a the cannon barrel turned to the correct taper .
 

 
And here it is completed except I have now realized that I don't have a cut off tool!
 

 
 Oh goody something new to get! I can see where this can be very addictive.      

Thanks Augie, Ben and Paddy.
 
Well I'm barreling down the home stretch and speaking of barreling I have mounted the barrels
to their carriages and will be putting them in place once I'm back in town.
 

 

 
Thanks for stopping by.

The finishing of the lower hull has been completed.  In addition, all of the touching up on the painted areas has been done.
 
I decided to retain the natural finish of the lower hull.  As I wanted it lighter to contrast the above wale hull, I gave it a coat of Minwax Pre-Stain (I always use this on basswood), one coat of plain 'natural' stain. 2 coats of poly and one coat of dull acrylic.  It actually looks almost untreated but that's what I wanted.  In the photos it's the final one that shows the finished effect.
 

 

 

 
Thanks to everyone for offering your suggestions on the color.  I'll save the 'white stuff' idea for another model.  The Admiral is steaming but nothing that dinner and a show won't solve.  She has also decided that I'm planning on displaying her 'in the wrong direction ......  again !!  But that's normal.  No sense having those exposed framing beams on 'the wall side'.
 
Need to add those moldings we made weeks ago and then onto the stern galleries

Thanks Bob, The good news is that it will eventually be available through Seawatch Books!