Doreltomin

Excellent work, thank you for re-posting your log, I truly love how you managed to do it! Congratulations!

In the sailmaker's loft
 
One of the problems at working at this scale, 1:100 is to keep things in proportion. For example, using 5 mm dia. material for the main mast means it would  be a 5 metre diameter mast at deck level!
 
I used placemat material as pictured to make the battens.

Hello, I'm here with the gentlemen above: Don't fight with wood! All you have to do is taking a wider plank which you will then trim to make look like curved. I believe for practical reasons is always better to use in our models pre-shaped pieces which have no internal tension trying to reverse to some previous "flat" state. Of course you will need a wood with small grain which will not show the trick. 
 
As a disclaimer, haven't tried that myself, yet for practical reasons when doing planking, instead of using curved wood which comes up very poorly, I generally use 1 mm plywood from which I cut curved "planks". The curve is generally taken with a paper jig, so the finished piece is made to fit perfectly to its place without any need of edgeside bending. 

Very much beatiful presents, and beauty feels of this wonderful time wishes you,  me and my ship, thats currently being built.  Merry Christmas to zou   

After many weeks, i finally put some time to continue on this ship with my friend. Well, i never airbrush without my friend. It is a lot of fun. 

So next stage is finished... Uuuf, but it was lot of work.

If the wood is soft and wet you can slightly bend (edge set)  and it will stay in that shape when dry.  Harder woods cannot be easily edge set and will lift. 
There are several write ups on this site on planking, including spiling.  Why fight the wood when you can cut it to  the shape that will allow it to lay without trying to fight the wood?
 
Allan

I feel that Allan has given you the best answer, why fight it when you can make it to that shape. But there are write ups for edge bending you just need to do a search in the database for them.

takes some time with the time I have but thats ok...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
more to come...still some areas in need of cleaning up.

Hello folks. today I will teach you how to make gun barrels.
 
You first need a $1600 lathe and then.... no, no, no, just take some paper and... 
 
Thank you for your lesson, MASTER Doris!  

Hello folks. today I will teach you how to make gun barrels.
 
You first need a $1600 lathe and then.... no, no, no, just take some paper and... 
 
Thank you for your lesson, MASTER Doris!  

Hello folks. today I will teach you how to make gun barrels.
 
You first need a $1600 lathe and then.... no, no, no, just take some paper and... 
 
Thank you for your lesson, MASTER Doris!  

Hello folks. today I will teach you how to make gun barrels.
 
You first need a $1600 lathe and then.... no, no, no, just take some paper and... 
 
Thank you for your lesson, MASTER Doris!  

Hello folks. today I will teach you how to make gun barrels.
 
You first need a $1600 lathe and then.... no, no, no, just take some paper and... 
 
Thank you for your lesson, MASTER Doris!  

Hello folks. today I will teach you how to make gun barrels.
 
You first need a $1600 lathe and then.... no, no, no, just take some paper and... 
 
Thank you for your lesson, MASTER Doris!  

Hello, I just wonder if this computer-aided design of a period wooden ship isn't plain misleading. Don't misunderstand me, I also work as a professional architect, busy all the day long with my 3D models, but I remember the old days of the hand drawing and I have seen how this 3D models and uncanny precision of the CAD can modify your thinking. I mean, there may be too much precision which for practical reasons wouldn't be necessary for a wooden ship, where some 1-2 cm of adjustment and deviation from the standard dimensions would have been quite normal. 
 
Then, there is something else which annoys me from a long time ago and I am not yet sure how it was on a real ships.What do I mean:
 
I know all period plans of these ships show the vertical sides of a gunport to be a true vertical, while the "horizontals" are parallel with the respective gundeck. Is it like that on their period plans because it is plainly easier to draw or was it also true in reality?
Each gundeck lid would have been custom-built and then fixed to place, a tedious and time consuming process. 
 
For the real ship I believe it would have been easier to do it otherwise. I mean, on the shipyard there must have been a logical development of the things. First, the frames were erected and put to place. Then, the external wooden skin was put to place, then the gundeck beams were fixed inside and the gundeck put over. Then, I believe for practical reasons it would have been easier for them to make a wooden jig of exactly the needed size for the gunport aperture including two "legs' to align it do the deck at the needed height, mark the place and then cut the gunport along the marks. If it was needed, the true vertical of the frame was adjusted away to make room for the gunport aperture. This way the "horizontals" would be paralel with the deck, the "verticals" of the gunports wouldn't be true verticals anymore, however the gunport lids would have been at 90 degrees each, easy to build, easy to adjust and easy to switch from one gunport to another if needed. 
 
What do you think?

Excellent thread, thank you for your building tips, Paragraf. Although technically your Victory is a paper model, in fact your tips are certainly good for wooden modelling too. Will follow your build with much interest!
 
Cheers!

Thanks Russ, Popeye, Frank - it is indeed a VERY well done kit;  I am very impressed so far with the instructions, the fit and just how enjoyable it is to put together.   I would highly recommend this kit to anyone wanting to give one a go.  It, so far, has been a very enjoyable time!
 
I have done a little more;  really just trying to get myself setup for the (/queue sinister music/) Planking!
 
I went through and finished up the gunports;  not really a lot to say there.   Used a tick strip as suggested to transfer the spacing from the plans to the ship and framed up the gunports.  I think I may do a mix ,a couple open a couple closed - but still will see.
 
 

 
 
Once that was all set I went through and did my best to fair up the buikheads.   I hope I got them done right, I have to say I was expecting a lot more to be needed but the battens are laying pretty darn well across them all - so it seems to be pretty good.   I figure when I lay them exactly in place I may come across some oddities but will fine tune it then.
 
 
 

 
 
In addition to fairing the bulkheads went through and sanded the gun ports to follow the curvature and lay flat with the heads so the planks will set nicely over them and then faired up the deck areas.   Once all that sanding was done I just layed out the false decks and have her set aside to dry overnight.
 
 
 

 
 
 
Tomorrow - I guess..... :gulp:  time to plank.   Don't mind saying - a bit nervous.. but,  anxious as well =)
 
So until then!!
 
Thank you all for taking interest, it is greatly appreciated!!!
 
Enjoy!!!
 
-Adam.

With the dry fit passed! I pulled them out and began gluing them in.   I had seen from the old boards that a few members use high technology to ensure their bulkheads were aligned correctly so
I figured, good enough for them good enough for me.
 
My first bulkhead glued in place and aligned with a high tech alignment unit.

 



It was great being out with the wife and telling her I had to stop to pick up some legos =)

 
Moved down the row, gluing each at a time and letting the glue setup before moving on to the next to ensure each one was nice and tight.  I used PVA glue and it really didn’t take long to dry in place. Once they were all in and secure the entire unit is set aside to dry over night!
 



Now I would like to say that this early in the game I did not encounter any issues.  Sadly, I
cannot say that.  The kit was great!  The Materials superb! The instructions so far outstanding!  This is 100% operator error and quite embarrassed.   I apparently glued the aft bulkheads in backwards; the reference lines are facing forward =(. 
 
I looked it over and do not believe this will sink me just embarrassed that I made such a silly error so early in the process.
 

 
However, learn from it I will and move on I must.
 
Thanks for stopping in folks!


Until later, and as always – whatever  you do, and however you do it… enjoy it!
 
-Adam


 

First test to align the mast fish and the mast with the rest of the boot.

23:rd post. Reposting continues...

11:th post - More mast things...

Something to do with prohibition, perhaps?

Part 3:
 
Pics and not so many words.
 

 

 
Rudders:

 
Dry transfer decals:

 
Second deck:

 

 

 

 

 
The open deck:

 

 
Wim
 

When I saw your build in my notifications I thought: "Yay, Doris has posted an update with more pictures!" Your updates never disappoint, and as always, your work is absolutely beautiful!