chris watton
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Everything posted by chris watton
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Thank you Regarding parts, I am not sure, never counted them all up. You can however download the manual on the Sphinx page on my site: HMS Sphinx – 1775 – VANGUARD MODELS The full parts list is near the end. As for sails, I honestly haven't really given them much thought, as I prefer the models 'Dockyard Style', with just masts, yards and rigging. I include sail options for smaller kits, as I can appreciate many prefer to have the choice, and they seem to suit smaller craft.- 355 replies
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- vanguard models
- Sphinx
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Yes, there are only 2 lots of planking strip, the 1x5mm limewood for first planking, and the 0.8mm pear for second planking.
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I would say it is a kit most could build. BUT, they need to take their time at every stage and not rush anything. The batch of 0.8x4mm pear strip I ordered for these kits is the best I have seen, nice and light, too, so will look fantastic under the blue and gold upper works. If I were building it again, I would use the planking under the upper half of the pre etched and cut sides.
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I am stunned, thank you all for your support. I never thought I would sell so many. I did enough for 50 in total, as I always order 50 PE sets (which weigh in at 20kg for Sphinx). But castings, thread and anything else non PE and laser cut, I ordered 100 kits worth. I will add a couple more to stock, but damn, thank you! I have put in a repeat order for the photo etched sets, and will start another production run of laser cut parts, each kit takes well over 6 hours cutting/engraving time.. And again, thank you!
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I always use a length of 0.8mm ply, about an inch or so wide with sand paper wrapped around it to sand the bulkheads. I find this works really well as I it is flexible enough to bend and sand all edges it comes into contact with (both convex and concave). I usually sand until most of the laser char is removed.
- 341 replies
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- Duchess Of Kingston
- Vanguard Models
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No, it's a nightmare right now, I only have the smallest of surfaces left to do work on my two new developments, a little corner of the dining room table! Luckily, the two I am working on are quite small, as you can see in these pics of Nisha, the smallest! We have had a quote from some builders to convert our large double garage into a proper unit. Supposed to start this next month, but knowing builders, they probably won't show up... I have ordered more materials (pear sheet) to make a new batch of kits in October/November time
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We are hoping to have the manual on the website soon (Sphinx page), all plans, manual and box art complete and with printers. The manual is so large that we have had to increase the upload limits on the server!
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New member from Scotland (Falkirk)
chris watton replied to Razorbill's topic in New member Introductions
James has build logs of both the Zulu and Fifie: Both of these were designed with the complete beginner in mind -
Am always tempted do a Caledonia or Commerce de Marseille, just to see the look on my wife's face as the skeletal structure grows on the dining room table...
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Yes, Sphinx is rigged - all standing rigging, and running rigging has all yard associated rig, tie, jeers, lifts and braces. Other rig included sheets, clew's and tacks if you want to go that far. For future reference, I have never designed a period ship kit that does not include rigging. For Sphinx, there are 8 50x70cm plan sheets dedicated to masts and rig, plus quite a few pages in the manual showing mast and yard assembly.
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That looks fantastic, Derek! I got the idea of using a clear material for the stand when looking through the AOTS book of Alert. There's a picture showing a contemporary model on a clear stand and I thought that would be cool if I could do the same, as I don't think any other mainstream kits do this. They are also a lot less intrusive, as the whole hull can still be seen. The MDF cradle is a throwaway item, to be discarded once the model is complete. Another little note on why stands/cradles are so important to be included (in my opinion), is that they give the model the correct stance/angle for marking the waterline. Out of the 9 kits I have thus far developed (including the two I am doing now), only one, the Sphinx has the waterline more or less parallel to the keel. The other 8 do not. Each cradle needs to be designed with each unique angle in mind - off the shelf turned columns just wouldn't do.
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In every kit, I include two stands, the one shown above, which is for the build only, and a much nicer acetate stand to display the finished model which, for Sphinx, has a laser engraved nameplate for each side. I know that a lot of kits do not include any stand, and if they do, they call it a 'Bonus'! I have attached a pic of the display stand for Sphinx, and next to it is the two stands for my upcoming sub £100 kit - the MDF is for the build and the acetate version with nameplates is for the final display. No matter what cost the kit, they all have the two stands.
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I think three weeks. I could get plans and manual printed right now, but prefer to wait until the model is complete - but I do want the actual release to be no later than three weeks. I will show you work in progress box art, some pics and text are just placeholders, and the bar code is for Duchess... PRE-ORDER KIT HERE: https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/hms-sphinx-1775/ PRE-ORDER PEAR BLOCK SET HERE: https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/hms-sphinx-pearwood-block-set/
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Just to let you know, Sphinx will be available for pre-order tomorrow, well, in about 90 minutes time. I now have everything with me apart from the plans and manual, which I cannot submit to the printers until the prototype model is complete (for final shots for box art and manual).
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They did, I now have everything here, all looks very good. Made some changes to PE sheets, a few alterations and also adding part numbers to each part on the sheet. All look very fine.
- 355 replies
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Started designs on a companion to the Brixham Mumble Bee Nisha, a larger relative from Plymouth, which was later converted into a yacht - great lines, so fine. Not sure if I shall develop these two together, like Fifie and Zulu, as these are a little more complex (larger one has 16 bulkheads, and only around 350mm long) but am hoping to have the smaller Nisha out first. I have drawn fittings specific to each, like winch drums and the distinctive tow posts. These will have 1x4mm limewood first planking, and 0.8x3mm pear for second planking.
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I would say between 400-800 hours. I do mention at the start of the manual the amount of parts, and not to be put off by this, it's just that the parts you usually have to make up yourself from stock timber are already pre cut. In some cases, a little bevelling or rounding off of the edges is required to finish the parts, but that's it. You have multiple sizes of yard cleats and mast and sling cleats (items you usually make up from wood strip), even the mast head battens are pre cut, as are the mast fids. So, a lot of parts and a lot of laser cut wood sheets, but this does not or should not translate into meaning more complicated than any standard kit. Quite the contrary, I am hoping... I did tell Jim that I do not mind how big the manual is or how many photos we use, the more info for the modeller the better, I believe. And what a job Jim is doing, he really is doing the kit justice.
- 355 replies
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- vanguard models
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I have been told that the photo etched sheets will be ready to pick up from Italy at the end of next week, so will receive the week after. If these are all good, I will think about changing the Sphinx to pre-order, as all will be with me. I even have the boxes, double walled, so very strong, and have just ordered the shipping sleeves. Manual is up to date, almost complete, but has a lot more pages than I initially thought, with close on 1000 pictures..
- 355 replies
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Just realised I never got back to you DelF. The reason for the difference in description for the new lanterns is because we wanted to differentiate between actual resin castings and and 3-d printed parts, which is a completely different resin anyway. I have just completed all laser cutting for Sphinx. I can now tell you that the laser time for each kit is six and a half hours. There are 33 separate laser cut sheets in 8 different thicknesses from 0.5-4mm One of the reasons I really need a second machine...
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Will have to check that. The lanterns are 3-D printed in the same hard resin as the Sphinx boat beam brackets. I am assuming it is a resin of some sort.
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I now have 2 sizes of new lanterns in stock. They are not cheap, but are very detailed and 3-D printed in very hard resin. I have them in 12 and 15mm sizes, the 15mm is the same that is used for Sphinx (ordered extra for fittings stock). They come in two parts for the main body and top canopy, brass rod and pre cut glazing. Lanterns – High Detail (sold individually) – VANGUARD MODELS
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I do like these lanterns, it wasn't until James took some real close ups that I realised the detail was there, door hinges, handle, and open vents around the upper canopy cylinder..
- 355 replies
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- vanguard models
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I think it is very important to make the kits as easy as they can be. It really doesn't matter what experience some have, or have not got. It is a kit, so it should include as many pre-made parts as possible to give everyone a fighting chance. There is always much room for improvement, depending on each modellers experience and preferences, and those that can, will still make their own stamp of the kits. At the same time, I am hoping that those who perhaps may have been a little scared off by other kits in the past will feel confident enough to tackle such subjects. For most, the kit is complete, but for a few, it is a blank canvas and only the start of what they plan to do to it. For example, you don't have to use the pre cut and etched lower side parts, as I will include enough pear strip to plank from bottom edge of the blue painted sides down, the choice is yours. Regarding the plastics, or resin, which is what I use, after having to use white metal for the best part of two decades, I would choose the resin every time - easier to use, bend, file, better definition and next to zero shrinkage - with zero shrinkage for 3-d printed parts like the cannon barrels, figurehead, boat beam brackets and lanterns. If the material suits the end result, I will use it. But never again white metal...
- 355 replies
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Meant to say, I will have these lanterns on my website soon, for individual fittings, I have 12 and 15mm sizes for this new design.
- 355 replies
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