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chris watton

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Everything posted by chris watton

  1. My collection has grown even more the past year or so, after discovering Ancre and Seawatch (plus a couple of stunning new books by Richard Endsor relating to Restoration warships). I have had to have a large cull of many of my paperbacks, all read many times over and bought only for reading when on lunch breaks when I had a day job, to free up space for new books.
  2. Just thought I'd post to say that Ranger kits are now complete and in stock, so all orders will be sent next week. Also, I have a quite a few emails recommending books. I think over the years, I have bought any book I feel relevant to hobby, and later job. The first books on this subject I bought were in the late '80's, early '90's, Frank Fox's The Battlefleet of King Charles II and Lavery's Ship of the Line. (And the Sailing Navy List being the most perused by far..) The older books have been moved around 8 times over the years, so some look a little worse for wear, both from travel and me reading them. The latest are from Ancre and Seawatch. Only one book doesn't fit, and that the mammoth Commerce De Marseille monograph! James Lees Masting and Rigging is missing from the pics, as I am using it right now.
  3. I think when I drew that side profile, the forecastle and quarterdeck show the position ad their highest-level at the centreline. However, because the gangways do not have this, they are shown at hull side level At least, that's that I think that is (23 years' ago...) That one bulkhead that sticks out, if that's both sides the same, it is slightly too wide and needs more sanding to get it level with the other bulkheads.
  4. I have just received the first 30 sets of flags. This set has a white ensign, the next set will have a red ensign. Ensign size (1707 - 1800) - 70 x 120mm Union Jack (1707 - 1800) - 50 x 78mm Tricolour pennant (1661 - 1850) - 18 x 255mm
  5. A colleague of mine has asked me if I know anyone who has a Bounty model (preferably around 1:69th scale) they would want to sell, as he needs one for promotional work. He is in Italy, so if there is anyone out there, please PM me. Cheers, Chris
  6. And let's not forget the horrendous import taxes. Even for me, receiving materials from the EU, I have to pay import duties before my shipment is released to me, so for somewhere like Australia, they must be near crippling!
  7. I just thought I would explain a little more about the ships name letters on the sterns. When I first started designing, I bought a lot of books (which I still have, some are over 30 years old) and soaked up each and every one until many of the details I now know off by heart were etched into my mind. It was so long ago, when I am questioned about certain details, I start to doubt myself. With that in mind, I then refer back to the sources I have always used. In one of my most treasured books, Old Ships Figure-Heads and Sterns, by L.G. Carr laughton (1991 edition, number 80 of 750 copies published), and this is always my go to source for painting, he writes: ' English Ships had not had their names painted on their sterns, or elsewhere, till 1771, when by an order of 28th June they were directed to be painted on the second counter in 12" letters in a compartment. A year later, on 9th September, 1772, it was ordered that, instead of the above method, they should be painted "as large as the second counter will admit, without any compartment around them." The idea that this painting of the names was abandoned in 1778 at Keppel's request is mistaken; for though the names were rubbed out of the sterns of the ships under Keppel's command in that year, they were left in all other ships, both then and afterwards. The large lettering was the Trafalgar fashion, but how long it survived after that date is not known. Some models, e.g., the Nelson of 1814 at Greenwich, show the name small in a compartment, and apparently soon after the peace the painting of the names was dropped' This is why Indefatigable has the option of her name on the second counter. On another note, my Ranger boxes have just arrived, and the plans and manual came on Monday!
  8. Yes, there is a source. The book Old Ship Figure-Heads & Sterns, by L.G. Carr Laughton. According to his research, red was still the regulation colour for inboard as late as 1801, but at this time, it was giving way to other colours, usually yellow, but other colours were used. Red is always the safest bet for this period, but yellow is also an option. White is not mentioned for the upper decks, but is for the lower decks, which became the regular practice by 1815. Indy is almost 20 years before this, though, hence the red. ETA - What is your source for believing the inner bulwarks should be whitewashed?
  9. OK, the Barking fast Fish Carrier Ranger is now on pre order. I have everything ready and expecting boxes, plans and manual to be delivered this week. I also have the very nice premium sail sets in stock. This now completes the set of fishing boats: Ranger – Barking Fish Carrier – VANGUARD MODELS
  10. The boom to which you refer to was not introduced to British ships until 1793, according to James Lees, at least.
  11. Sphinx is 1775, there was only a mizzen gaff, and not a lower driver boom
  12. Not sure what to say, all the info is there on mast and yard sheets, and on the rig plans.
  13. This is the second time allanyed had brought this up. It is not a mistake, but a compromise. Those who buy and build my kits range from complete beginners to true experts. For the former, asking them to file/sand each face of the prow is a big ask, and a big assumption. Conversely, those that know, can. As far as I am aware, no commercial kit asks the modeller to taper the prow.
  14. Thanks' guys Yes, it's a Scharnhorst, I replaced its place with Yamato, thinking my wife wouldn't know, but she spotted the huge box being brought down our path on the door camera, dammit... Not sure if I will ever get time to make them, may just find someone to do them for me at some point! I think that, because of the copper situation right now, my next kits after Indy will be pre-copper era. But I will probably do a diorama/vignette type kit first. I have attached a couple of pics showing the first of my new three printers working, Bristol sterns and Alert winch drums, just completed and about to be removed from build plate and cleaned up.
  15. Cheers! The 'Laser room' is only a third of the space in the converted garage, but I feel I may outgrow the place in a couple of years.. I know that I will need to replace the smaller 40w laser with another larger 80w if things continue to go well.
  16. Just had my second and third 8k 3d printer arrive. I need this many as kits have a lot of multiple parts, like cannon barrels. This is my main 'production area' now, along with laser material storage. (and completed Indy laser cut parts). I will need to get a third extractor for the smaller laser machine at some point, though, as both of my current ones are attached to the large laser. Right now, the laser is cutting more Sphinx 0.6mm pear, as I was running short.
  17. I will do more figures in the future, but I now have to concentrate fully on Indy and organising orders for final materials. Only a couple of months ago, I just had a Nelson and Cochrane. Now, I have another captain, a lieutenant, 8 seamen, 2 marines and a cook, each with a choice of 5 scales. A rat climber is definitely one I shall do in future, though.
  18. It was me that suggested Jim planks in that way, as this is exactly how I planked Victory, which would need two planks per run due to the size (hull planking being well over a metre). I didn't mind doing that way, as I could get a perfect fit and start the planking at the bow and then the more complex curves of the stern, and then trim any excess where they meet. As the planking lines would disappear once the hull was prepped for painting, it didn't matter if the planks were staggered or not. On an unpainted, varnished only hull then clearly, the planks would be staggered - but a waste of time and effort for a hull that is half covered in copper and the other half completely painted. However, as with most things, this is subjective, being a wooden model kit, the builder can plank in however manner they feel best suits them, but in this case, it is moot as the planking strips in the kit will be full length, not half.
  19. Perhaps in the future, for now, I have already done a lot more than I initially intended. Plus, no matter what I do, what pose the figures, someone will always want one that I do not have.
  20. I can confirm that ALL planking in the Indy kit will be 900mm long. I sent Jim 500mm long planking strips, as at the time, I wasn't sure what length I would use. As the whole of the outer hull is painted, it really doesn't matter where the planks are joined, especially for the coppered area. But as mentioned, each kit has 900mm lengths.
  21. OK, all printing for figures all done. Cannon crew, Pellew, Hornblower and newest figures are all offered in 5 scales, 1:96th, 1:72nd. 1: 64th, 1:48th and 1:32nd. Today I finally received my nice Ranger sail sets, so as soon as I have the boxes, plans and manual, that will be available to buy (11th kit) Also in my package was some pear blocks, which means pearwood block and deadeye sets are finally available again for the Sphinx, Alert, Duchess and Speedy kits. I was hoping to have my nice premium Alert sail sets, but alas, they're still being made.. Right, back to Indy....
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