chris watton

There will be well over twice the amount of pre cut parts and laser sheets compared to something like the Aggy, perhaps three times the way I'm going.... For the 1mm laser cut pear sheets alone (500 and 600mm long), there are already 15 full sheets per kit, and I haven't started on mast fittings or bow assembly yet. There are two full size 2mm pear sheets for the cannon and carronade carriages.

I do have in stock that first book, I have read it twice over, very good book! Thank you! I was hoping to keep the kit well under £1000 - but as I progress, I know I cannot, as the material count keeps rising (I think this will have more laser cut materials and parts than anything else for a full commercial kit), so it will be around the £1000+ area , but NOT £1500-2000 - that would be Master Shipwright Indy territory (if I ever do any). I know I see a lot of comments saying how my kits are expensive compared to other brands, but they are honestly not, not when the materials and amount of time put into each kit are taken into account. I try to keep the end price as low as I can by still not really factoring my time in producing the kits - I am sure if I sub contracted the laser work out the Indy kit would be nearer £5k, and Sphinx around £2.2k. I do this mainly to make a living, but also for the love of it, wanting to produce better kits most can build and be proud of when finished, not frustrated and give up half way through - if it was 100% the former, then it would be easy to pump out 6-8 lesser kits per year, but as I have said many times before, that would be no fun and ultimately boring/unsatisfying. If Sphinx did not sell well, I would have had to rethink the way I design and simplify things, but as it did sell, and it is clearly what my customers want and like, I shall carry on doing what I am doing - low volume, high quality. Almost all materials and services used to produce these kits now come exclusively from the UK and EU, I do not have the luxury of China prices. For Indy, all photo etched work will be done here in the UK. This is more expensive for me (as prices accross the board have risen sharply over the past year), oddly enough, but I will get my orders on time, and the quality is slightly higher. I am sure the plans and manual for this will be almost half the overall kit weight, too. I do not mind so much, as the plans and manual (that are easily understandable) are just as crucially important as the rest of the kit contents.

Well, as almost half of my total customer base is from the US, I must do something in the future to show my appreciation!

When first thinking of developing Sphinx, I agonised for weeks about the best way to approach this. Do I keep costs down and spend just a couple of weeks on designs and make a simple block type model like most others on the market, with a fraction of the laser cutting and a lot less PE, or go all out and have a product that stands out, and risk it not selling due to the cost. I did take a chance and went with the latter option (in truth, my heart wouldn't have it any other way), and so far, despite the cost (although not so bad when all time and materials included are taken into account), Sphinx has outsold everything else by quite a margin. I was so relieved, as I had just given up my day job in order to spend all of my time producing the kits. This is when I knew there is a market for such kits, and this gave me the confidence to go all in with Indefatigable - although all such developments are risky. I sometimes think it's all worth it just to see these lovely hull likes in the flesh, even at development stage. I have given thought to this, and there are just too many variables for such 3-d printed parts, as no two models are going to be the exact same - but I am yet to work on this area (next week I start) Great looking model! I remember doing the designs for that on graph paper in my own home, and in my own time back in 1999!

There are only a very few I would revisit, as I do like to do new subjects. I don't like Sovereign enough to dedicate 2-3 years of development, and the many thousands it would cost. I would however like to do a Restoration 50-70 gun ship at some point, I think that would look very nice.

I remember spending £547 on Sovereign of the Seas 30 years ago now. This was two years worth of hobby time (worked in a castings foundry at the time), but I did spend almost the same again on better materials, and a lot of the time was spent correcting (as best as I could) the shortcomings in the historical detail, even to the point of altering completely the deck and side sheers. But, as a hobby and the enjoyment from all the extra research, it was still a bargain.

All my kits are 64th. Cannot tell you final length and height, as I am yet to draw the masts and bowsprit. It will be around Agamemnon size, taking around 30mm off the height, but add about 120mm to overall length, as I shall do Indy with a Flying Jibboom

The problem is, Vane, that if I made the larger models less detailed to try and maintain the same amount of materials (and used lesser materials, too) and cutting times I use for the smaller ones, then the kits would be absolutely no different from other kits of similar size from other larger manufacturers. Anyway, adding less to larger kits isn't what I am about, the price will be whatever the price will be. I develop how I would want my own kit to be, and then work out the price. I have now developed 11 kits, the largest being Sphinx up to now. Indefatigable is my 12th development , so it's not like I have jumped off the deep end immediately. This is my third year. The 'HMS Fly size' kits will come after Indy - a little smaller than Sphinx, but noticeably larger than Speedy.

Thank you! Mid to late 18th Century is my favourite period for ships, with the 1770's being the sweet spot for form and function. Amazon Class 32's and Swan Class sloops being perfect examples.

I have made them in a slightly different way, but not too different to how I normally do them - but yes, the door can be left open to allow light to filter through.

It is all dependant on sales. If Indy is successful, then of course, I have quite a list of what I want to do. After Indy, there will be a couple of medium size kits developed (in size, between Speedy and Sphinx), plus Bristol. Eventually the 'Flagship' is to be a First Rate, Royal George of 1756 - but again, all dependent on how things go, as this will be a two year development at least. I do have a 38 earmarked, two, in fact (one is of Spanish origin) , but I will do a 36 (Phoebe Class) before then, as a 36 hasn't been done in kit form yet, as far as I know. I very nearly decided to go for the 36 before Indy, but the latter just pipped it at the post. But right now, and for most of the rest of the year, I shall be concentrating on Indy.

Looking good Glenn - but you may want to relocate some of those chainplates. As a rule, the should follow the same angle as the shrouds they secure.

I have said before, I am always tempted to do Caledonia, a 120 gun First Rate, just to see the expression on my wife's face as the hull is built!

I think the build time for this kit will be an average of around 2 years, with the end result being a very nice scale model of one of the most famous of frigates. A lot has changed since starting the designs, and a lot of areas have been 'upgraded'. For example, the forecastle and quarterdeck beams were originally in 6mm MDF (as I initially never intended to have the open decks option), and for the kit, they will be 6mm thick pear. There will be many 3-d printed parts, but only where they benefit the overall appearance of the completed model. The belfry for example, is a one piece print, with only the wooden bell cross beam and brass bell being separate. Anchors were originally done in MDF, but are now 3-d printed parts. Cannon are correct in scale and shape, and not 'about right, give or take..' - and the quarter galleries have simple seats of ease! Today I changed the poop arrangement slightly. As I moved the skylight back so that it is now over the great cabin, I saw no reason not to add mizzen bitts and belaying cross rail, so I did, and deleted the belaying rails that were on the poop barricades. Also, I deleted the coamings for the Top Tackle and Pump Scuttles, and moved the gratings to the 0.8mm pear sheet - as I realised these never had raised coamings. Tomorrow I shall start on the various cleats for the bulwarks and decks, and then move onto the bow area. Once this is done, I need to number everything up, make a parts list, and start cutting for Jim. After this, I will carry on with all the PE and work out a figurehead and the modest stern décor for the Indy. I don't think this Indy will look very much like the one on the TV series...

This is always the risk when 'pushing the boat out' with kits, especially the larger ones. They cost a hell of a lot to develop in time, energy and materials. However, this will not be released for another 6-8 months at least. Hate to think of what the final kit box weight is..

Very nice, Tankerman! Aggy is one subject I may revisit at some point, I already have the full bulkhead line drawings for the 2 decker Indy when designing the razee.

Cheers both! I hope so, too, I have wanted to do this one since Agamemnon, 23 years ago, so want to do the subject the justice it deserves.

I have never designed a model ship kit without mast and rig. Indy is no exception - I did mention just a couple of posts up that mast stays will have BenD's rope.

yeah - Illustrates the world of difference between Post Ship and a Super Frigate! (Indy being around 15 feet longer along the gun deck than standard 38's of her day) Am sure it has been mentioned elsewhere, but I will be included some of BenD's excellent rope in the Indy kit, most notably the anchor hawse and the larger diameter mast stays. Also forgot to mention, the stern name and depth markings are waterslide decals this time. Name being yellow ochre and depth markings are in white - there will be two sets for each kit (and already have them here with me), as I know mistakes can happen when applying.

Well, relatively, yes, very rough. It has been built just to check parts - planking took almost a week, but I needed to plank it full to check all designed parts. One thing, as I mentioned, there will be quite a few changes for the production prototype that Jim will have. Nothing major, more refinements. For example, the waist rail will be in two layers of strip, not one as shown, and as already mentioned, the poop skylight. All hull detail above upper deck level is pre cut. The poop barricade is my idea, and I have integrated belaying racks either side, in lieu of the missing mizzen bitts. The flag lockers at the stern will be populated with PE parts (square compartments). For the quarter gallery tile effect, I have opted for laser cut black card. I think they are much easier to apply than PE parts, using PVA wood glue, and look better too. I was not 100% sure about the poop step gangways, should I keep them, or have the steps directly attached to the poop? problem is, if I do that, the steps are very close to a 42 pounder, so kept with the platforms. As Indefatigable was stationed in home waters at the beginning of her career, I do wonder if she would have had all of the latest 'innovations' early on, like quarter davits. Bet she did... Anyway, still a lot to do. I will send Jim the production parts in the next couple of weeks, once I have nailed the bow area.

Forgot to add my initial side profile I did before I started designs.. The production model will be shown with coppered bottom, and fully painted sides in black and yellow ochre (The figurehead is from Vanguard, and used as a placeholder until I get her own made)

OK, little update. Designs for Indefatigable are now about 85% complete. The pictures shown are of the pre-prototype, so looks very rough as usual, as many parts have been glued, ripped off and new parts added in place - and is built for part checking only (just like Sphinx). There are still a few mistakes on this prototype model, so does not entirely reflect the final designs. I have also included a drawing I did of the basic outline of what I think Indy would have looked like during most of her career. The only concession I have made is keeping the forecastle timberheads, rather than berthing up this area, with the decision based purely on aesthetics (plus the plans show this anyway. What I did change is the quarter bulwarks. I know she had 7 gun ports per side and three (with spare chase port) at the bow, so the 7th port had to be worked in, and this meant altering the bulwarks to the same height. I have placed the additional 12 pounder long chase guns right at the front, as I could not see Pellew being chased, more the chaser... I have tried to keep the poop profile as low as I can. Pellew didn't even want the poop at all, and would have been happy to have his cabin on the main gun deck and Indy fitted with sloop like quarter badges (would have looked odd..). With this in mind, I have kept the poop profile to a minimum, as I am sure Pellew would not have requested anything that would have increased windage. I will add 'iron stanchions' to this area, and that's it. I have the bow area to design, which will be the last of the main areas, and then I need to do all the photo etched parts. (Oh, and of course, a figurehead and stern decoration - which will be minimal). For the first time, I decided to go with laser cut and engraved columns for in between all lights/windows, and I am very happy with how they turned out. Channels are made by laminating three patterns together, a wider and thicker centre and not so wide and thinner top and bottom. You will be able to build this without the open slots in the decks if you so wish, they are not mandatory. The stand is 4mm acetate and a 2mm duel colour engraved nameplate. ETA - Forgot to mention, I have moved the poop skylight back by 3 beams, as I realised it was too close the edge of the poop, so it is now over the great cabin, and not in the position shown.

Yep. I remember when in my 20's, and working at a foundry 5-7 days per week, I saved up a part of my weekly wage for 4 months in order to buy the Sovereign of the Seas, which I guess would be near the equivalent of £1000 today. As that took me two years to build in my spare time, I figure it was still a bargain, compared to a lot of other hobbies.

Fly was designed almost two decades ago, so quite old school. You do not need to chisel in a rabbet for my newer kits.