chris watton
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Everything posted by chris watton
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Little update... I now have another 5 boats available: Cutters: 20 foot 22 foot 24 foot 25 foot And a 36 Foot Admirals Barge Ship’s Boats (various types) – VANGUARD MODELS Thanks to James Hatch! Also, I started Indefatigable designs a few weeks ago, and am currently nailing the hull designs. Throughout all this, I have had terrible toothache, culminating in tooth removal yesterday, so still feel like a bear with a sore head... The pics show the very first assembly of the first parts I cut for Indy, and other pics show the second cut of modified parts. Hull design is now set in stone, so onto deck and bulwark stuff. I decided to include full deck beams to scale, also scale distance for the upper and poop decks. I am still working on these. The only parts that are glued on the assembly are the gunport parts. This is quite large...
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This was a very long time ago, 23,24 years - I honestly cannot remember, these were very quick developments (with designs originally hand drawn). this is all I can remember from this time. Sorry.
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Hollowneck does this for his superb dioramas.
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That does look really nice, Mario. I think I prefer this model with the fully painted hull.
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- Lady Isabella
- zulu
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Be cautious if using Master Hand for dimensions, Nisha is much smaller than that, Master Hand is more Erycina size.
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Not sure I shall ever do a V2 of Sphinx, it is a very complex design with a lot of laser cut and PE parts. Plus, no matter what I do, it may be perfect for some, but others would still moan. Designing a FULL kit will always be a compromise. I know that some less experienced modellers have trouble aligning upper rails, and sometimes, the overall effect of the finished model is marred because of this. Linking the rails is my solution. But there is nothing stopping someone else separating them or changing them altogether. This is the great thing about wooden kits. However, I also know very well that the more experienced, the BE's, Hollownecks and DELF's of the world will always have their own solutions. It is funny reading that quote from Chuck, when I was pondering the implications of designing the front rails as one, I knew some would find it an issue, but also knew some would intentionally cut that curve away and add it as a separate part. This is how I was going to do it - but at the last minute, factored in the less experienced. Taking all into account, it was the lesser of two evils for me. This area is always a nightmare, design wise, but didn't want to simplify too much. So, it will always be this, for some, it is too much, but for others, it's not enough, it's trying to find balance between these two that is the real trick.
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- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
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You only really need the scale line drawings on the plan sets you already have for the masts. You could download the V2 manual and just print off the relevant pages, if you really wanted hard copies. I do not produce the manuals myself, this is done by a printing company here in the UK.
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You are doing a fine job, Paul!
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These are a nightmare for me. Even following original drawings precisely, the doors would not open due to the bitts. So I had to move things slightly so they could open a little more, and it's still very tight!
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OK, if this was me, I would address the planking issues like this: The hull below waterline level is white, and the area above waterline up to the top edge of the main wale to be painted black, leaving just the pre cut and engraved hull sides natural. Now, even this decision means a lot of long hours. You will need to paint, fill and sand multiple times. The dip in planking near that stern is another problem that can be addressed, but again, it will not be quick. So, first, mask off the areas not to be worked on, so everything above the top of the main wale. Second, get rid of that dip near the stern, where you have sanded off too much of the bulkheads there. This will need to be filled, sanded filled etc., and will take a while a do until it 'flows' with the rest of the lines. Third, once this is done, spray the unmasked hull white, you may need two to three cans for this, as it will take a lot of coats and sanding/filling in between each. Forth. mask off the hull below the waterline and then paint that area between waterline and top of main wale black. The area should be OK as you dealt with this with the white paint, thus covering all plank work. Others will have different solutions, but this is what I would do if it were my model.
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- sphinx
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I now have Fifie sail sets: Fifie Sail Set – VANGUARD MODELS
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I would say Fifie or Zulu.
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It can get very messy, though, and can be quite time consuming, especially when a print doesn't come out as it should... Forgot to mention, I made a change to the Alert kit. Alert is now in 'V3' guise, and brings it up to the same standards as the rest of the range. Changes that are now standard with V3 kits: 6-Pounder carriages have more detail and the cap squares are now integrated with the laser cut sides, same as Sphinx designs, so no need for the fiddly PE cap squares. Laser cut gratings now included with 1.5mm pear laser sheet. Black resin anchors, gone are the white metal versions. Laser engraved top deck, in line with the rest of the range. Pre made sail set (6 sails) Acetate stand now has nameplate engraved.
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OK, Brodie Stoves... I had the original CAD stove drawing amended to address some initial issues (bolts hardly visible, hole for condenser too small etc., just little things), I changed the supports (for when the stoves are being printed) to the smallest possible to reduce any stubs that remain, and I was happy with the final file and print. I have produced the stoves in 1:64th, 1:72nd and 1:96th: Brodie Stove – VANGUARD MODELS I have attached two pictures of my first prototype stoves, showing all three scales, and two pictures of the one I sent James Hatch, which is painted. (and the latest versions are a little different with the changes stated above). As mentioned, each comes in 4 parts, main body, chimney, condenser and drip tray - and the original 64th version has been designed for the Indefatigable kit. Sizes (heights are without chimneys) 1:64 -L-28mm W – 24mm H – 29mm 1:72 – L-25mm W – 22mm H – 25.3mm 1:96 – L-18.75mm W – 17.3mm H – 19mm
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Chuck already offers a superb 1:48th stove, so you're already well catered for
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Just open up the PE strops enough so you can push the deadeye in place and just close the strop back up. I usually pull the strop using pliers and then 'squash' it back into shape.
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1:64th scale - but specific to Indy, as the width is dictated by the riding bitt and knee distance, which the stove is placed in between I will do a 72nd scale version too.
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I meant to reply yesterday, but forgot! Please, you have nothing to be sorry for, I didn't mind your question and was happy to explain the processes I need to go through before things are ready. OK, today, I had my Indy stove designs finished for 3-d printing. Here are some pics of the very first sample set. These have quite literally just been done and given a quick clean up after emerging from the resin tank. These were done with each at a different orientation, to see how much I can get away with the least amount of supports as possible. It comes in four parts, main body (most detail cannot be seen from my pics though), chimney, complete with brackets for baffles and holes for a handle either side (There are brackets to take the spit bar, too), a condenser and drip tray. The kit (Indy) unit will be complemented by PE parts (baffles, handles, chains etc). Always wanted to do this, as the stove mini kits require so many parts normally
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I also have the same problems. I get a lot of my more expensive materials (box, pear etc.) from the EU. I pay the invoice, and the materials are shipped. However, before they are delivered, I get another letter saying I need to pay hundreds more in import duties. Once the extortion money is paid, they will deliver. It works both ways. I try not to add this cost to the kits, but damn each country's tax office like to take their pound of flesh! I only mentioned the IOSS situation because I wanted to make you aware of the reasons I cannot send any order under 150 Euro via UPS (Only EU, all other countries are fine), as UPS will not let me ship without this number, and I will not pay for this number until governments sort this out, I would be losing money on each sale, giving any small profit to a holding company in Latvia, who must be raking it in.
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On a separate note, my first parcels to Krick are being shipped to them this week and next. For customers in the EU, I cannot send any order below the equivalent of 150 Euro using UPS. This is because I am required to have an IOSS Number. Now, I did apply for this, and paid the non refundable application fee. However, it is not until you have paid this fee and proceed with the application that you learn you have to submit all of your bank details to a holding company based in Eastern Europe. You then have to trust this holding company to take out the £50 per month membership fee, plus all other fees relating to VAT and other charges. Call me Mr. Cynical, but I did not trust these people with all of my account details, and allowing them access to my account for the sake of the odd order under this amount. It is very rare I have orders for less than this and the customer wants it shipped UPS. So I have to send standard post for all EU orders under this amount until our government make the rules a lot clearer. Anything over the 150 Euro threshold is fine, though. This is one big reason I wanted a distributor within the EU..
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No problem! They are not 'off the shelf' parts, but new products developed from scratch.
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These things take time to sort out, you asked only last week. The PE CAD files are with my Italian producer, these were sent only this week. I then have to wait until the sample parts are done and then arrange for them to be picked up - I have no idea when this will be. Once it does arrive, I will and the laser cut parts and photo etched parts to Jim Hatch, who will build the models and take pictures of the stages. Then, once I know everything fits as they should, I order the production quantities of the photo etched brass. For the 24 foot cutter (unrelated to what you asked for), I am trying this with no PE, instead using a material called 'Polybak Laserboard' for the floors, instead of PE.
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Cheers! Not sure about any cutter, though. I know they are good for a 64th scale Alert/Rattlesnake cutter.
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