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chris watton
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Everything posted by chris watton
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Shannon sounds like a good bet - I just hope there are good plans available.... -
Question on channels and chain plates
chris watton replied to src's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I have to concur. -
So - either a Leda Class or Artois Class frigate - the earlier ones are prettier (from a aesthetic point of view) with the exposed forecastle timberheads instead of the plain looking planked bulwarks.. Anyway, I have now added all of the cannon and depth markings to Victory (which is starting to get very dusty again... ..And I have just realised that I haven't made the carronades yet.. I received my updated quarterdeck bulwark hammock cranes with the cannon barrels and boats. I re designed them after studying the pictures I had taken of the real thing, and realised they had brackets holding them into position on the insides of the bulwarks, like this: I haven't rigged any of the cannon at all for this model. This is because I can never get them to look quite right, and when taking close ups, all you see is the stringy bits. Plus of course, I'm crap at rigging them anyway.....
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Lots of food for thought, I do like the name Phoebe.....
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Thank you, guys. A snow! hmm. I am thinking of revisiting the Cruizer Class but at 48th scale at some point. I think anything other than a USS Constitution won't sell that well (outside the US, that is ), and that subject is well covered - although I don't think there are any large scale versions... The problem with HMS Anson is that it's a raze, and doesn't have the classic frigate lines - plus it has a poop... I like the names of: Apollo/Euryalus Class - 1798 (36 guns) Boadicea Class - 1795 (38 guns) Artois/Apollo Class - 1793 (38 guns) Leda Class - 1794 ( 3 8guns) Arethusa Class - 1778 (38 guns) Something like that... (I did once suggest the Indefatigable - but Sergio, my boss, couldn't even pronounce it.. lol)
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I use Ronseal multi purpose wood filler. It is water based and I find it perfect for wooden model applications (Have even used it to simulate deck caulking!), as it can be thinned into a paste using water - plus it is very easy to sand. I find standard olde-type filler too hard - almost like concrete when set.
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I have decided that I want to develop a super detail heavy frigate next - haven't done one since my first PoB design, Diana. (Have done Surprise, but that doesn't count, too small) Any suggestions? (would prefer one without solid front bulwarks - they just look nicer and more interesting...)
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Love this thread.. Makes my 1:64 scale effort look positively bereft of detail!
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Can you make a new piece using 1mm plywood? Is that stern assembly cast? I ask because I know how much metal casting can shrink compared to the master used.
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lol - shurick (love that avatar, BTW) - it'll be a while yet, have to sort out the thousands of assembly pics and do the drawings first - gulp... I will say that there is one area that I have thought about the most - the height of the bow deck. The sources I used for the main hull and deck designs show it at upper gun deck level, yet other sources, including the real thing show a platform added about 2 feet in height. I have changed the designs twice, and decided to leave it at the deck level - why? - Well, I figured that it is much easier to increase the height of the platform than to lower it - as I do not know either way which is supposed to be correct, it is better to go with the option that is easier to change, depending on which side of the fence you sit on regarding this area.
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Thank you, Floyd The barrels are being sprayed black right now. It would be the same if they were in brass, too. They are cast because the trunnion (the bar that goes through the barrel to rest it on the carriage) is offset rather than central. I have been using AK interactive's Brass Photoetch Burnishing liquid for the cannon balls on the upper decks and some PE parts. It works very well. I bought it from here: http://www.emodels.co.uk/plastic-kits/interactive-brass-photoetch-burnishing-fluid-00174-p-36558.html
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Oh yes, many have asked about colour, which I explained why I used what I did a few pages ago. If you look at the carriages here on the lower gun deck middle gun deck, you can see the original Vallejo colour I was going to use - but after much thought, I went with what I know works for longevity and stability, as the model will be shipped around quite a lot and subjected to changing temperatures often.
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Thank you You could always leave sections of hull planking off. If you look through the gun and entry ports, you can still clearly see that they are full assemblies, and you can see other deck detail, too. Also, with the gratings off, you can see right down to the orlop - plus of course, you can have the stern windows in their open position, so you can look right down the gun decks. I wanted to do a kit where, no matter how hard you looked, there'd always be detail. Bellona was the test bed and Victory is the result.
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Cheers More ship's boats stuff - I try and add as much as I can to make the assembly less boring, so thwarts, knees etc. have been laser cut, too, and the floors and gratings are photo etched. The only things you need to do is plank, add the ribs and paint. (I would like to advise using something like Evergreen styrene strip for the ribs, instead of wood strip...) Here are the differences between the 12 pounder long (upper gun deck) and 12 pounder short. Not much in it with the carriages, but the barrels have a huge difference in length! (The quarterdeck carriages are being primed, hence the white..and the upper gun deck carriage is a superfluous reject...)
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@chris watton There are 4 sizes of cannon barrel - no more off the shelf 'that'll do' parts... Depth markings! I have even added optional window frames for the poop gun ports:
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Fore and main sail sheets and tacks - it would be impossible to belay them properly to the upper gun deck bulwark cleats once the masts, yards shrouds, stays and boats are in place - just a bit of forward thinking. ETA - Just had all of my cannon barrels and ships boat parts arrive!
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The gun ports were worked into the framing of the hull, so the planking were made to fit.
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I have a folder in my 'Future developments' folder on my PC with this ship in mind. I love the style and shape and would make an excellent partner with Prince. I love this Mamoli model, too - greatgalleons is doing a great job on this kit.
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Those nasty pillars still haunt me. So much so that if I don't have the exact height and diameter, I not have them laser cut for the profile and the modeller then just has to file/sand the corners smooth - they then look much better. Nice job, by the way, I enjoyed looking through your build
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It is a 64th scale Amati figure - I placed it near where nelson fell.... All the gun port lids have been profiled( All of the ones that require it, that is). All of the lower lids, (you can just about see it on the lower lids in my photos) the last four middle gun port lids and the last three upper gun port lids - They all follow the hull profile. I made the hinges in 0,25mm photo etched brass so that they could be manipulated to follow the steps in lid profile easier. . This brings the thickness up to almost 2mm for the lids with the wale detail, and 1mm for those that do not. As for the drip mouldings, I couldn't say 100%. All I know is that every drawing from the most well known and respected sources seems to show them, so it would be very remiss of me to leave them off. Like the stern davits, you don't have to add them if you don't want to - it's one of those sets of fittings that isn't structurally significant to the build. Since adding the scuttles to the lower lids, I have re designed them so they look exactly like the real ones. ETA - I should mention that all of the gun port lids are laser cut, and each one is specific to its particular gun port opening - so if you don't keep 'em in order, you're in trouble!
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I may have spent more time on this - don't forget I work on it all day, virtually every day - I also try and design my stuff so that all the mundane bits are cancelled out, meaning we can build them slightly quicker than other kits. Thank you, it is 1:64th scale
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I just 'tried' to take a few pics of the quarterdeck/poop area, to show it before the new bulkheads arrive, but they didn't come out too well. If you wanted yo, you could leave out the bulkheads and have the deck 'cleared for action', as the deck (all the decks, in fact) extend right to the end of the stern - no hacking and slashing required... Seems like I go out of the way to hide the fact that the hull is wood.... Gun port lids are as to scale as they can be. Too often I see way too thick lids in kits, usually at least 2mm thick! If you look at this picture I taken of the real thing, they are not that thick: Also note the lack of sill on the lower inside edges of the gun port openings.
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Hi robboxxx, Unfortunately, we no longer have time for the hobby site, as Chantelle (my wife) now works full time now we're back in the UK. It was initially set up for Chantelle, as something for her to do when we lived in Italy. She tried again, but her job recently changed, so not only does she work Monday to Friday, but is now on call-out, too.
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Cheers - although looking at Kirsten, it looks as though I pointed a gun to her head!
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