chris watton
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Everything posted by chris watton
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You are doing a fine job, Paul! -
These are a nightmare for me. Even following original drawings precisely, the doors would not open due to the bitts. So I had to move things slightly so they could open a little more, and it's still very tight!
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OK, if this was me, I would address the planking issues like this: The hull below waterline level is white, and the area above waterline up to the top edge of the main wale to be painted black, leaving just the pre cut and engraved hull sides natural. Now, even this decision means a lot of long hours. You will need to paint, fill and sand multiple times. The dip in planking near that stern is another problem that can be addressed, but again, it will not be quick. So, first, mask off the areas not to be worked on, so everything above the top of the main wale. Second, get rid of that dip near the stern, where you have sanded off too much of the bulkheads there. This will need to be filled, sanded filled etc., and will take a while a do until it 'flows' with the rest of the lines. Third, once this is done, spray the unmasked hull white, you may need two to three cans for this, as it will take a lot of coats and sanding/filling in between each. Forth. mask off the hull below the waterline and then paint that area between waterline and top of main wale black. The area should be OK as you dealt with this with the white paint, thus covering all plank work. Others will have different solutions, but this is what I would do if it were my model.
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I now have Fifie sail sets: Fifie Sail Set – VANGUARD MODELS
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I would say Fifie or Zulu.
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It can get very messy, though, and can be quite time consuming, especially when a print doesn't come out as it should... Forgot to mention, I made a change to the Alert kit. Alert is now in 'V3' guise, and brings it up to the same standards as the rest of the range. Changes that are now standard with V3 kits: 6-Pounder carriages have more detail and the cap squares are now integrated with the laser cut sides, same as Sphinx designs, so no need for the fiddly PE cap squares. Laser cut gratings now included with 1.5mm pear laser sheet. Black resin anchors, gone are the white metal versions. Laser engraved top deck, in line with the rest of the range. Pre made sail set (6 sails) Acetate stand now has nameplate engraved.
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OK, Brodie Stoves... I had the original CAD stove drawing amended to address some initial issues (bolts hardly visible, hole for condenser too small etc., just little things), I changed the supports (for when the stoves are being printed) to the smallest possible to reduce any stubs that remain, and I was happy with the final file and print. I have produced the stoves in 1:64th, 1:72nd and 1:96th: Brodie Stove – VANGUARD MODELS I have attached two pictures of my first prototype stoves, showing all three scales, and two pictures of the one I sent James Hatch, which is painted. (and the latest versions are a little different with the changes stated above). As mentioned, each comes in 4 parts, main body, chimney, condenser and drip tray - and the original 64th version has been designed for the Indefatigable kit. Sizes (heights are without chimneys) 1:64 -L-28mm W – 24mm H – 29mm 1:72 – L-25mm W – 22mm H – 25.3mm 1:96 – L-18.75mm W – 17.3mm H – 19mm
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Chuck already offers a superb 1:48th stove, so you're already well catered for
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Just open up the PE strops enough so you can push the deadeye in place and just close the strop back up. I usually pull the strop using pliers and then 'squash' it back into shape.
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1:64th scale - but specific to Indy, as the width is dictated by the riding bitt and knee distance, which the stove is placed in between I will do a 72nd scale version too.
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I meant to reply yesterday, but forgot! Please, you have nothing to be sorry for, I didn't mind your question and was happy to explain the processes I need to go through before things are ready. OK, today, I had my Indy stove designs finished for 3-d printing. Here are some pics of the very first sample set. These have quite literally just been done and given a quick clean up after emerging from the resin tank. These were done with each at a different orientation, to see how much I can get away with the least amount of supports as possible. It comes in four parts, main body (most detail cannot be seen from my pics though), chimney, complete with brackets for baffles and holes for a handle either side (There are brackets to take the spit bar, too), a condenser and drip tray. The kit (Indy) unit will be complemented by PE parts (baffles, handles, chains etc). Always wanted to do this, as the stove mini kits require so many parts normally
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I also have the same problems. I get a lot of my more expensive materials (box, pear etc.) from the EU. I pay the invoice, and the materials are shipped. However, before they are delivered, I get another letter saying I need to pay hundreds more in import duties. Once the extortion money is paid, they will deliver. It works both ways. I try not to add this cost to the kits, but damn each country's tax office like to take their pound of flesh! I only mentioned the IOSS situation because I wanted to make you aware of the reasons I cannot send any order under 150 Euro via UPS (Only EU, all other countries are fine), as UPS will not let me ship without this number, and I will not pay for this number until governments sort this out, I would be losing money on each sale, giving any small profit to a holding company in Latvia, who must be raking it in.
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On a separate note, my first parcels to Krick are being shipped to them this week and next. For customers in the EU, I cannot send any order below the equivalent of 150 Euro using UPS. This is because I am required to have an IOSS Number. Now, I did apply for this, and paid the non refundable application fee. However, it is not until you have paid this fee and proceed with the application that you learn you have to submit all of your bank details to a holding company based in Eastern Europe. You then have to trust this holding company to take out the £50 per month membership fee, plus all other fees relating to VAT and other charges. Call me Mr. Cynical, but I did not trust these people with all of my account details, and allowing them access to my account for the sake of the odd order under this amount. It is very rare I have orders for less than this and the customer wants it shipped UPS. So I have to send standard post for all EU orders under this amount until our government make the rules a lot clearer. Anything over the 150 Euro threshold is fine, though. This is one big reason I wanted a distributor within the EU..
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No problem! They are not 'off the shelf' parts, but new products developed from scratch.
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These things take time to sort out, you asked only last week. The PE CAD files are with my Italian producer, these were sent only this week. I then have to wait until the sample parts are done and then arrange for them to be picked up - I have no idea when this will be. Once it does arrive, I will and the laser cut parts and photo etched parts to Jim Hatch, who will build the models and take pictures of the stages. Then, once I know everything fits as they should, I order the production quantities of the photo etched brass. For the 24 foot cutter (unrelated to what you asked for), I am trying this with no PE, instead using a material called 'Polybak Laserboard' for the floors, instead of PE.
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Cheers! Not sure about any cutter, though. I know they are good for a 64th scale Alert/Rattlesnake cutter.
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I just had a very large box arrive from Spain, containing sail sets. Included in this parcel are sail sets for Alert. The company that produces them is the same that makes the sets for Occre, Amati and other mainstream manufacturers. These are ready for sale (or sail..) now: HMS Alert pre-made/stitched sails – VANGUARD MODELS I have sail sets for all kits that already have optional sail sets, and will put those on in due time. However, I will still be buying the higher quality, but much pricier sail sets for the fishing boats, but now, there will be a choice in costs.
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Sail sets for Nisha and Erycina are in stock!
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Another tiny update. I now have a 'crates and barrels' pack available, which should compliment any of the fisher's decks: Barrels and crates (assorted) – VANGUARD MODELS On a separate note, I took advantage of the capabilities of my 3-d printers, and produced 2 brand new 3-d files for Indy 24 pounder and 12 pounder long guns (24 pounder is Armstrong, and 12 is Blomefield). The bores/chambers are now scale depth! One thing I didn't anticipate is the extra time cleaning out the excess resin in the bore. I have to use these Tamiya special cotton buds, and ram them home to squeeze out all excess resin on every single barrel! Still, I think scale depth is cool, so don't mind so much. Finally, new (laser cut wood) boats incoming, one imminent is the 24 foot cutter, the workhorse of the Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars, followed, perhaps, by a 36 foot Admirals barge. A little later, I will have available the following (laser cut wood and PE) mid- 18th Century boats: 22 foot Skiff 14 Foot Yawl 19 foot Longboat 20 foot Pinnace
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I have flexible masking tape in stock, after trying it out on Nisha and Erycina pre-prototypes, and bought a load more once I realised how perfect it is for jobs like these. I always thought it was a little gimmicky, but no, it was perfect for the job of difficult waterlines.
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- Erycina
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You asked... I now have a 12 Foot Cutter Hull option (L-57.15xW-20xH-12.2mm) Clinker-hull boats (3D-printed) – VANGUARD MODELS
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Just playing around with potential deck stuff.....
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OK, the boats are now on the website. The small 16 footer designed for the fishers: Clinker-hull boats (full kit) – VANGUARD MODELS The clinker cutter hulls: Clinker-hull boats (3D-printed) – VANGUARD MODELS And three new sizes of detailed lanterns with 5 sizes now to choose from: Lanterns – High Detail (sold individually) – VANGUARD MODELS And finally, I have ordered the pearwood dowel. Once I receive (told 6-8 weeks), I will make up upgrade sets for Sphinx and perhaps others, to replace the masts and yards walnut dowel.
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