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Everything posted by chris watton
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The 22 foot yawl especially, as this should really be clinker planked. Can't wait to see the 28 and 32 foot pinnace print files! Thay are also my personal choice. In the past, there was little choice but to use the plank on bulkhead boats as there was no real alternative. With the advent of 3-d printing, I figured why not offer an alternative. These boats are quite a large investment for me, but I think will be worth it, as they are both as accurate as they can be in shape and detail, and much easier and quicker to put together. As usual, there will be a lot of laser cut parts for each, including thwarts, knees, floors etc.
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OK, I have done trial prints of the new 22 and 24 foot cutters (these are not simply scaled from the same file, but drawn from separate plans, as can be seen in the shapes). Plus the 22 foot yawl. I am now awaiting the other three boats I am having done for me. The main aim of these was to have options for the Sphinx and Indy boat sets, but will of course be sold separate also. I think I will put the oars on the laser cut wood, as the end paddles are quite flimsy...
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OK, I finally have the officers at table figure set available, after much changing and back and forth, and almost completely giving up on this little project. It is now done, however. I have printed off all 64th sets, and now working on 48th and then 32nd. Officers at Table – VANGUARD MODELS Here are a couple of pics from a set made by Blue Ensign, I sent a pre production set to to gauge feelings towards the set. I have included two standing officers with each set, with each having a different hand/finger position, so you can choose whichever you think is best
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OK, I have a small batch of the Master Shipwright Flirt kits back in stock: HMS Flirt – Master Shipwright Edition (2024 Updated Kit to include 3-D Printed Cutter) – VANGUARD MODELS I am told my 3-d printed boat sets will be ready soon, so hopefully, I shall be able to offer full replacement 3-d printed boat sets for Sphinx and Indy, as well and being sold separate. There will be: 22 foot cutter 22 foot yawl 26 foot launch (alternative) 28 foot pinnace 32 foot pinnace
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I use superglue gell or thick. I only apply a thin bead down the centre of each plank, as if you have it near the edges, it will squish out the sides in between the planks..
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Just a little update, I have had quite a few enquiries asking if I will ever have the Flirt Master Shipwright in stock. I was going to retire this, as I could no longer get the machined blocks that are standard with this kit. However, I now have really nice CNC machined blocks in stock again, so have ordered enough boxwood and 3mm birch ply to produce a small run of these kits. When I say 'small run., I do mean that, not 'Limited Edition' of 'only' 1000! I will do two runs of 6 kits, 12 in total. The only change I made from the original Master Shipwright Flirt is the 18' cutter, which will be a 3-D printed hull and laser cut boxwood floors, seats and oars. Regarding Harpy, I have completed all of the A1 size plan sets and started the manual. Once Jim has completed the model and I finish the manual, the kit will be released - am thinking October time.
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Regarding the rig, I shall add a note saying the modeller can omit any rig directly relating to sails, like sheets, tacks, clews and bowlines. If the modeller wishes, they can just add the standing rigging and runing rigging relating to yards and booms only. But the plans and blocks and thread will allow for a fully rigged model - but you don't have to, you can stop once the yard rigging (Tyes, lifts and braces) is complete.
- 76 replies
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Any part that meets another at an angle will require sanding in order for them to sit flush. The stern counter requires sanding so that the top edge is level with the bottom edge of the upper stern part. Do not be afraid to sand/file parts that would fit much better if you did this - wooden kits require much sanding/filing, unlike plastic kits. I have attached your pic with added yellow lines, showing you what you need to take off. I suspect the bulkhead tabs above deck level also could do with a little more sanding, so the bulkhead pattern will sit flush with the whole of the contact surface of each.
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Cheers guys! This does mean that orders will be done a lot quicker, and we will be able to actually build up more stock. Within the next week, I will have completed/finalised the Harpy plan sets (am on the final 4, rigging). There will be 16 x A1 size plan sheets for Harpy, along with the manual. I will start laser cutting the production sheets soon. Once I finished the plans, I shall have one last look at these darned officers/table/chair figures, as they have been revised again, but I don't want to waste time on these until all my work for Harpy is complete. Today, I did think about adding the nice CNC machined blocks as standard for Harpy. However, I backed off, as this would increase the kit price by around £40. So I think having them as an optional extra would be better. I know people moan about the standard blocks, but in all honesty, they are the only viable choice when they have to be bought in the tens of thousands, some in the hundreds of thousands. It takes suppliers time to produce 50 kits worth for just one kit.
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I know that painting, it was that what inspired me to do Harpy plus I love the name, from this book (Highly recommended): Regarding the paint scheme, I will suggest the usual red for inner bulwarks and cannon carriages, black for main wale (of course) and gunwale. Sides can be painted yellow ochre or, as I want for the prototype model, varnished, purely for aesthetic reasons. Like Speedy, I have little doubt she was daubed in all kinds of colours during her long career, so it is entirely up to the modeller what they want to do with the colour scheme. I did try to join that Kent History site, but I was presented with a lot of crazy questions about Kent in order to join, which I hadn’t the foggiest clue how to answer…..
- 76 replies
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- Harpy
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Add yards, but just add the parrels/slings and tyes, though, and lifts later.
- 143 replies
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Damn! That's the trouble with the pre made hulls, they need to be packed well and in a box, otherwise they just won't make it in one piece. Stuff like that is always better if ordered with larger items. But we will look at the postage options, these are always a nightmare and sometimes way over charge. When that is the case, I always refund the difference.
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Very well done, Glenn, you have come a very long way in the space of only a few years. Your Indy looks magnificent.
- 587 replies
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- Indefatigable
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I have tried to made the basic hull assembly as painless as possible. I remember a thread where someone was building a Speedy, and got frustrated because some parts didn't fit as they should. and what happened was the aft deck supports were not pushed all the way home, and then glued that way. This meant a whole new laser cut set for the hull. I now try to design these things to avoid such incidents, hence all the retaining tabs to help lock/secure parts into place. I think I already mentioned this on my thread, but the upper deck planking lines are a rework from original plans for a Cruiser Class, which shows the actual deck planking lines. Not the same class, I know, but designs are only a year apart, and with a little adjustment to the lines (Cruiser Class a little wider at the bow), the planking lines are more or less the same from the contemporary plan.
- 76 replies
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OK, over this weekend, I shall have three scales for the new 3-d printed 24 foot cutter in stock. 1:72nd, 1:64th (of course..) and 1:48th. Each will come with a fully detailed 3-d printed hull with nice clinker planking and a sheet of 0.8mm pear for the laser cut fore and aft floor, seats, knees and oars. 24′ Cutter (full kit – various scales) – VANGUARD MODELS This is not an enlarged file of the 18 foot cutter, but completely new and based off original plans.
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