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chris watton
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Everything posted by chris watton
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This is what I got from the first run using a new 3-d printer. Am sure my standard printers are better, or I need to look at settings.. Bases never came out, and a few other bits, so this is what I was left with. Carver is changing the figures for smaller hands and a few other little things
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OK, have asked my sculptor to do something with those hands, and beef up the collars and lapels, as well as chair legs, to help with printing. Just finished first print, only half of the items printed (new printer, so trying again), but I did get a seated and standing figure and table in 48th and 32nd, and the sitting officer and table in 64th.
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I think I give up on the figures
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I am printing a set now, will see how they come out, and if needed, changed again - but won't really know until the parts are actually printed.
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The main scale will be 64th, but also 48th and perhaps 32nd.
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I always do the lower shrouds, then futtock staves, catharpins, futtock shrouds, upper shrouds and upper shroud staves and catharpins. Then ratlines and last of all, topgallant shrouds. I always used to dread rigging, thinking I would spend the same amount of time on that as with the hull. However, I soon learned that rigging is done at a much quicker pace than the hull, which is in reality around 90% of the total time spent on a model. I remember spending over a year (full time) building the Amati Victory hull, yet the rigging took less than 3 weeks from first shroud to final bowline. And that had a lot of shrouds and rats... For the the distance between the deadeyes I think they be at least 5mm, but absolutley no more than 7mm apart for 5mm deadeyes. For 3mm deadeyes, 3-5mm apart.
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- Adder
- Vanguard Models
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You are doing a wonderful job, Glenn, well done.
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- Indefatigable
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I now have machined block sets back in stock for Indefatigable. They are walnut and look very nice indeed, but do cost me more than the machined pearwood blocks I got from Russia, so are a little more expensive. HMS Indefatigable CNC Machined Walnut Block Set – VANGUARD MODELS I will order sets for the other kits in time.
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I commissioned the whole scene to avoid any ambiguity relating to how the figures would fit in with other parts. If they are done all together, I know they will work with all the parts supplied.
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Cheers We need to figure the best way to print them, to minimise breakages when in transit. The sitting figure may have the bottom half attached to the chair.
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Changes to figures made, I said keep the epaulettes as they are shown on the source pictures my carver used.
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I gave my carver more pictures of the uniforms, and asked to change some aspects. As for me, I am doing the Harpy plans in CAD, which will take perhaps another 6 weeks (I find this aspect a slog, probably because I am now so used to the drill and know the very long hours involved...). All cut files are now done (21 separate laser cut sheets), with part numbers added to each part, and will send a set to Jim soon, so he can start his build log. Amati are in the process of doing the sample PE for Harpy for me (3 frets in 0.2, 0.4 and 0.6mm), so I shall have that in the next 2-3 weeks, I hope. I think this one will be a breeze after Indy...
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Thoese slots were just for my benefit when designing the kit. I usually remove them for the final production files, but decided to keep them, in case any modeller found them useful for any reason.
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OK, thank you, I have sent better details to the carver.
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Yes, these are the very first renders, to see if I am happy with them. I am, but there will need to be small changes based on the best way to produce them.
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Just received some first renders of one of the series of boats I have commissioned to be done for me. This is the progress of the 24 foot cutter, and I am quite happy with that. Am looking forward to seeing the rest when they're done. Oh, and no bomb vessels planned! lol
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It really is of no consequence if the upper or lower tabs are broken on the vertical gunport frames - their only job is to provide the gunport with its sides, anything else is superfluous to their job.
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They counted as guns on brigs. At this period (1790's-1815), the overwhelming majority of 18-gun brigs had the 16x24 or 32-Pounders and 2 x 6-Pounder long guns. This made them very powerful for their size at closer ranges. If they were armed with 18 x 6-Pounder long guns, not only would they have been slower due to the heavier weight of the guns, their broadside weight and effect would have been pitiful when compared to the carronades They were never counted as such on larger vessels, though, presumably because the armament was chopped and changed quite often (secondary armament, that is, not the main gun deck ordnance – unless it was a 24-pounder frigate fitted with 18’s…)
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That would be up to the modeller. It can face fore, aft, port or starboard. Most contemporary models I have seen have it facing as I have positioned it - but really, it is no big deal as it can be changed to whatever postion anyway.
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By the end of this year hopefully
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