chris watton
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Everything posted by chris watton
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First checking of brand new designs, and much fettling/fine tuning still to do... But overall, quite happy...
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For the ply bulwarks patterns, what I do now is to clamp into position, make any minor adjustents that are needed, and once I am happy with the fit, I brush on watered down PVA all along the contact areas. This method seems to work very well, and will recommend it in my next kit.
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A little update. I am now out of machined pear block sets for the kits. I cannot buy any more because I sourced these from Russia, which, as mentioned before, a sanctioned country. However, I have been in contact with HiSModel, and have ordered 20 Indy kits worth of machined walnut blocks - although these are costing me a little more than the pear machined blocks I had before, but I figured better to have the option than none at all. I will order sets for the rest of my kits that had this option in due course. (Next will be Sphinx and Duchess)
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The good thing about the base (and I was given a choice of intergrated base or no when these were done for me), is that 99% of all supports for the 3-d printing process are limited to the underside of the base, meaning the actual figures have little to no unsightly support 'poc marks'
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I may try that one day, but please bear in mind I have around 15 different figures, with most in 4 different scales, with the files already made for these. I would need to do the same again without the base.
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Hi Tim, Honestly, I am not sure as I have never tried to remove the base. I guess a Dremel would work if you are careful.
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Lovely work CRI-CRI, and I also love you profile picture , you look startled!
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Yes, just the larger diameter rope.
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If it were me, I would add only the breech rope.
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You have some eyelets on their way to you (Forgot to tell you....)
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I am hoping to have most of my boats in 3-d print resin form at some point, I have a talented guy working on these, one at a time, for me - starting with another cutter, as clinker planked boats are much more difficult to make from wood. And very well done, BE, Indy looks gorgeous, a real credit to your skills!
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- Indefatigable
- Vanguard Models
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Thank you! Next month, a YouTuber will start a build of Sherbourne, so this may also be of help for you: Tagliamare - YouTube
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I have very few completed models in my house, no room! All the models I did for other companies are with them. I only have a few fully completed models here, Alert, Speedy, Trial, Adder and Sherbourne, and then some of hull only for Duchess, Fifie and Zulu, and then only three prototope hulls (what I used to check designs) for Indy, Sphinx and the re worked Speedy.
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- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
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The smallest fiddle blocks I can get are 7mm, way, way too big for the scale
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By just adding one clamp at a time from the bow to the stern, and slowly... You can use water to soak them, but you must leave them in place for a couple of days so the moisture dissipates completely - if not, then the part will be bigger than it should be, and will shrink to proper size after you glued it, which would not be good.
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I didn't soak them, I just left them clamped in place overnight, and the patterns kept their bend (more or less) If soaked, I would leave in place for at least 2 days, to make sure all traces of water has gone.
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If only we knew then what we know now....
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What you could do now is start planking from the bottom to the top, this may make the run of the planks a little less severe. For a bow like Adder's, I did taper more than I usually do for each plank, less than half width at the front, so more, perhaps 75%. There are only 12 planks per side, so not too bad.
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This is one of the pics I took when visting Victory, for research when developing Amati 64th scale version. Gun port linings are top and sides, and not lower ledge.
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You did indeed, almost out of these and I cannot get anymore for the time being, with Russia being a sanctioned country.
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This picture of one of the bevelled and edge bent 1x5mm strips is from the Sherbourne manual. No tools were used except a Stanley Knife and steel rule for the taper after just a little soaking, and then while still wet, the bend was manipulated using just my fingers. I use this method for most bending, even for the huge Amati Victory hull. Loking at your second plank down, it doesn't seem to have enough taper at the front. My basic rule of thumb is always taper to half the planks width, and then ease off a little once then planks start to run a little more naturally further down.
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Regarding the rear most bulkhead, I decided to remove the tab at the end of the longitudinal brace, as it would have been too difficult to slot into place. I should have deleted the holes in the pear stern, but forgot – but they are not at all important to the overall assembly, just surplus. When designing in CAD, on the PC, designs look great - but sometimes, they do not work so well when put into practice. The stern tabs was one such example.
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Sherbourne actually only carried 6 x 3-pounders, with the last three ports per side the likely homes for these cannon. But people always think every single port opening must be populated with cannon - this was very rarely the case. (I have seen many models burdened with so many cannon where they shouldn't really be, that if the ship pitched in heavy weather, it would just keep heading down to the bottom of the sea) I really wanted to give the official numbers for armament, but I know I would receive countless emails telling me I didn't add enough for all the gun ports....
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