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chris watton

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Everything posted by chris watton

  1. I sent an order which contained Sherbourne kits to Ages of Sail 4 weeks ago, have they run out of them already! ETA - I designed my first Sherbourne over 25 years ago (a quarter of a century, damn)!, it didn't take long as there's not really too much to it. The VM version is still heavily subsidised by me, meaning I make less profit per sale, but the upside being more people may buy it and actually enjoy and complete the model, rather than give up half way through. The material and parts count and time taken to produce each kit is much higher than my first design of Sherbourne. So, even if you think it is still too expensive when compared to the other, it really isn't, not for what you get in the box.
  2. No specific evidence, no, so you can change the position if you wish - but the holes in the gratings wasn't an error.
  3. The holes on the small fore grating are not mistakes, they are to take the anchor hawse.
  4. Ah, then I am not 100% sure - they are made by the same Spanish company that do OcCre sail sets, but will not be ever using them again...
  5. If they're the premium sails, then it is cotton, as far as I know, produced for me by HisModel.
  6. You may find it easier to rescale the parts once they're in STL format, and use the slicer program to scale.
  7. Swan class was only a foot longer along the gun deck, but Harpy was more stocky - in fact, it was this new class of more heavily armed flush decked brig-sloops that had made the likes of the Swan class obsolete.
  8. I have had a few customers ask if I was ever going to develop such a vessel, Personally, I have little love for such a thing, so when I became aware of this amazing kit, I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask if I can stock them. I can say that shipping and import taxes are pretty steep though, which have to be added onto the retail cost. I have been told my shipment wil be ready in 5 weeks.
  9. Usually, the prices shown on shop websites do not include the import duty/tax, that your government add, so you really need to take that into account.
  10. For those in the UK, I have ordered a batch of these fantastic kits (along with the John Smith Shallop), so I should have them in stock in the next few weeks.
  11. Yeah, I use the 0.25mm black thread for the vast majority of standard block tying.
  12. I seem to have missed this off my plans for Sherbourne, I shall make sure it is included for future plan sets:
  13. OK, I finally have the 33 (and a bit) foot Royal/Admirals barge/shallop in stock. This main file went through a lot of changes before I was happy with the final print, so now, compared to the first file, this should be a lot easier to add the pear parts. 64th scale – length 158.5mm 48th scale – length 211.3mm 33′ Royal/Admiral’s Barge – VANGUARD MODELS All 3-d printed boats: https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/?post_type=product&p=17419&preview=true Here are some pics of the 48th scale version that Jim (Hatch) has just completed, he has done a great job! For this one, it will be all about the painting.. The base and cradles are included with this one (2mm Pear), as I thought some may want it as a standalone model, and those that would like if for their model ship can use the cradles only if they wish.
  14. Cradles are an easy fix, just add some pear to the bottom edges of them to bring the height up. Somthing I have done many times...
  15. She does look great, Bob, and if I did such a job on her, I too would be very happy. I like nothing more than looking at the model when complete, or near completion, the lines, curves, decoration etc.
  16. A few have asked about size for Surprise. Well, below is a comparison in size with Indy at the top, then Surprise, followed by Sphinx and bottom is Grecian (all 64th, of course)
  17. That looks fantastic, I love the colours, especially the frieze background and figurehead. I cheat when it comes to shroud cleats. Instead of cleaning off the char, I paint them black... Never fail to be gobsmacked at the quality of people's work on these forums..
  18. OK, tie that block to the end of the dowel, and then make another knot, but don't close the look it creates, instead, insert the other block in the loop and then tie the knot. The knot will be on the top edge of the block. Apply a dab of glue, either thin CA or watered down PVA and when cured, just trim off the excess.
  19. I did the same with my prototype model, the one that's on the box art! But it was the fore topgallant I caught and snapped. You can see it slightly bent in all the finished pics - all I could do was apply a drop of glue and keep it in place until set. But it still has a slight tilt...
  20. Thank you! I am fine, I think I just needed a little break, as I haven't really stopped since 2019! I need to take it a little slower this year, I think.. Thank you, I have said before that I personally would prefer the 3-d printed hulled boats over standard if I were buying the kit. I had to make sure they were as accurate as they could be, using original plan lines in most cases. Before, I know many had to settle with what looks roughly correct, but really wasn't, as there were very few choices. I wanted to ensure I have a full range of the most often used boats for my kits, with all the hard to do detail already done - especially for the clinker planked boats. 3-d printing allows me to do this, and at a near scale thickness, too, rather than white metal or cast resin, which always made the boat look way too thick and toy-like. I know some still love the all wooden ones, but I also know there are very many more who prefer the pre made hull versions, and with the 3-d printed hulls, there is no longer any need to compromise on historical accuracy so much.
  21. Do not take any chances this time of year, take care of yourself, Sparkler can wait until warmer weather!
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