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chris watton
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Everything posted by chris watton
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You do realise the pictures taken were with a macro lens, and these names are just a few mm long? We do have a US distributor, AgesofSail.- 122 replies
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I had the Spit Fire pic as one of my references! I did originally have the text exactly like in the picture, but was told to change the font as the printing they use would not be able to print something so thin onto the decal sheet. Originally, every name had a slightly different look and line thickness, to simulate the styles written by different hands - but in the end had to change them. Took an age, too.
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My usual rule of thumb is this – Any warship pre 1800, I will always insist of red inner bulwarks and carriages unless I have strong evidence to the contrary. After this date, I feel I can be a little ‘looser’ with the options, using off-white, ochre or green, depending on date and type of vessel. As you mention, Surprise is being depicted (for the prototype at least) to those later dates, so colour scheme is a little more flexible. But again, it will always be up to the modeller what they want to do – they are furnished with options. Oh, meant to ask - what colours were the cutters, was it a red one and green one, or red and blue, I cannot remember!
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There is quite a lot of Information out there that suggests ochre for inner bulwarks and carriages for the early 1800's. My main source for this particular kit is the book The Frigate Surprise, by Brian Lavery and Geoff Hunt. Victory inner bulwarks and carriages are also yellow ochre, and she is depicted as per the exact same time frame as Surprise. But, as always, the colour scheme is never gospel, no one will insist the modeller uses the colours we suggest you can paint them red, yellow, even green or pink if you wish! Conversely, how do we know definitely they were painted red, or at all? ETA - The reason I did the carriage names in both white and black is to give the modeller the choice of how they wish to paint them, red for the white decals, lighter colours like ochre use the black.
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Considering this is your first build, your model looks amazing!
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- Sherbourne
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Bow area is always an issue, more so with built up forecastle bulwarks. My mandate to myself with this was to try and make this area as strong as possible to help minimise possible distortion that often sets in with such curves around the bow, with some areas looking more angled than curved. But damn that area was a nightmare.... (As in trying to do this so that it is easy for the modeller to understand and build up). I am so overdue designing a kit with a nice simple beakhead bulkhead!
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Previous Vanguard Speedy builders
chris watton replied to bigcreekdad's topic in Wood ship model kits
I PM'd Bigcreekdad as soon as I saw this post last night and gave him the plans he needed in PDF -
That's what my build is all about (It is, after all, still in the design and development stage)
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Finalising the upper deck pattern now that bulkhead tabs have been removed, bowsprit fits like a glove..
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It did take a full working day....
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Yes, Tanganyika, I use this because it is much cheaper than pear (as my model will be thrown away), and it is easier to plank with, being much softer. This means I could plank the whole lower hull in one session. Only have it in 1x4mm though, and the kit second planking is 1x5 pear, so I had to use more planks.... You can see the upper deck beams below the jigs, not sure why you would think those jigs would be beams!
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The keel, prow, stern post and rudder are made from three separate parts each, a 3mm pear inner, and then clad in 1mm pear each side, which also has laser engraved detail. For the keel, stern and prow, these outer patterns have the rabbet for the second planking.
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I just removed the masking tape after adding the second planking to my 'pre-prototype mule' (planking took a day and sanding half an hour, but I used tang). Again, I must stress that this is very rushed, so apologies...
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If decals are used in a kit, I will always put the depth markings on that. You will also have double the amount required, so if you make a mistake, you can try again - and you have 4 stern names, with one required, so you can use a couple to practise on. No 0.8mm ply for the decks in this kit design for the first time ever!
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I decided on including two stern options because the original is bereft of any decoration, not even pillars in between the windows - and I knew some would question this, after watching the film. (I agonised over this for weeks...) So, as standard, the stern is slightly reworked to include pillars in between the windows, and also the shape of the windows have been given a little more 'flare' towards the ends. The reworked stern also has windows that can be posed open, as per the Indy. I have also worked both sterns so you can have the stern chaser ports open and a 6-Pounder in place if you so wish. ETA: Here are the profiles for Sphinx and Surprise. The Sphinx would look more like the film Surprise (which is based on HMS Rose, a 20 gun mid-18th Century ship, and exactly the same size as Sphinx). You can see the real Surprise was quite a bit longer, being 126 feet along the main deck.
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Jim hasn't got all the parts yet, as I am yet to complete designs for the upper works (inner bulkheads etc.). I asked my wife to add all the furniture, so Jim can see what will work best, there will be some laser cut parts for these too, like on Indy.
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Or a much nicer and up to date kit of Eggs'n'Bacon! Not sure if the figure looks like Russell Crowe - but bear in mind, at 64th (which will be the main scale), it is rather small. No plans on retirement.....
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OK, the other day, I had my final STL file for one of the two Aubrey figures. Unfortunately, my white primer went a little 'bitty', so doesn't look the best, but you can see the general details - this will be included in the kit: I also decided to design the hand pump bodies and brackets for 3-d printing, as having to make up 6 of these would be a little boring to do for the modeller. My sample Surprise photo etched sheets are also now with me, all I have to do now is finish building up the hull and take pics for Jim to work from - Time is just melting away...
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It's going well! The more complex the designs, the longer these things take. A lot of CAD work, so nothing to show as yet. I can tell you the decal sheet is done and has been delivered, and most of the resin print production is done. It is quite a large and complex kit with many pre cut and pre engraved parts, the latter more than even Indy, and all of this takes time to develop. Once I start cutting my final designs and build it up, for Jim to follow, I can post pics of my final prototype build, but until then, it is all just on CAD, on my PC. This applies also to the photo etched files. I need to complete these at the same time the laser cut designs are more or less cooked, and those are 90% done. Rest assured though, this is all I am working on, although I do get side tracked a lot due to having to produce more stock for current kits....
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