oakheart
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Everything posted by oakheart
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the 'sheds' WC and pantry also look better in the orginal Tim
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Thanks Craig, that is much more elegant, I will remake it to suit. I forgot, your Lapwing is a sister to Speedy Is that from zaz6425? I have a copy of that, should have checked it. Tim
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Good to see you making sawdust, looking good Tim
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Working up to the tiller. My feeling about the original drawing is that it does not look right? I have a scale and figure ( @ 1:48 about 5' 9" tall ) which I have placed in bills drawing I have this photo of BM45 Pilgrim built in 1895 ( much later I know ) but about the same size as speedy. here is my rough cut based on Bills original drawing does it need to be longer / higher to look right ? Tim and yet another rabbit hole, Alice here I come.............. may be of interest to others, here is Pilgrim BM45 in 2008 before her £1 million rebuild
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Gudgeons in place still to be bolted down and blacked. The centre one I cut a bit short, If I can find the energy I may remake it, then again once the model is finished I may never notice it. I need to trim the pins to a better length. Tim
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Always ready to rush ahead. I tapered the rudder top to bottom and fitted the top two pintles. Then blacked them, I think they turned out pretty well. I am very pleased closeup you can see there is a bit of bleed round the straps but it almost adds to the reality of the model? they do look the part Tim
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Hi Ian I have used Pritt stick to glue printed paper plans to ply wood, just needs a wet rag wiped over the paper to remove. With my 1:48 scale, 85ft Harbour tug I used 3mm ply for bulkheads, 3mm ( 1/8") balsa planks 6mm wide, then used brown parcel paper and Ronseal matt varnish instead of fibre glass with Halfords grey primer over the top of that. It ran all last summer without a leak 🙂 I wish I had taken photos of the build now. I used cereal packet card for the superstructure which was also painted with Halfords grey primer. I am amazed at how well it has performed at the clubs pond all last summer, as long as it does not sink I hope to keep going for years. I love its knock about quality. The other things I am build tend to become precious, you worry about damaging them. Tim
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Hi Craig @iMustBeCrazy talking of notch, it looks like the straps are rebated onto the wood of both the rudder and sternpost? Don't think I will be doing that. Tim
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Hi Allan @allanyed, thanks for the compliment. Those look a little complex to replicate at this scale, but I may amend the shape a bit
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Thanks @Gregory it will be the next job on the list.......
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Here is the rudder just balanced in place, now I can see how much I need to move the pintle. these photos do show warts and all, don't they Tim
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Thanks Gregory @Gregory I really was not sure about the position. I will adjust the position. Tim
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Never too late Allan I have reshaped the leading edge of the rudder, not sure if the pintles work that shape? still work to do on cleaning up and detailing, but it begins to look better thanks to the advice from @allanyed @iMustBeCrazy @druxey @Thunder
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Here is my first attempt at making a pintle. I had some 0.8mm dia. copper wire which looks about the right size for the pin, amazingly when hammered flat it is also a good match for the straps. When I have completed it I will black it with Liver of Sulphur as advised by Allen @allanyed The parts are 'soft' soldered together with some good old lead based solder I have from years ago. When I have decided on the final shape of the rudder I will remake it to suit the profile. I am assuming the centre of the hinge should fall in the gap between the rudder and the sternpost? This is fun. Tim
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Thanks Adrian @Thunder so very like the example that Craig @iMustBeCrazy showed us. Tim
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Wow : Thanks for all the research, the first one looks like it could be an angled leading edge. The drawing / painting looks more like a bevel than rounded. I does look like a flat plank. As this is no longer a model of any real cutter, I may use artistic licence here. Personally I quite like the angled look, so I may just go with that. Tim
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Hi Gregory Thanks for that, it will certainly be enough for me to make mine. Oh dear I seem to have done it again, I was going to line the gun ports, now suddenly I making the rudder. Focus, focus, focus now I am here I will complete the rudder, pintles and gudgeons. Thanks for all the help, advice and likes Tim
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That seems true of lots of things we build. Tim
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Ok next question. Just cut the rudder to shape but I can't find any reference on the drawings I have, to the rudder cross section or the cut away for the hinges ( name )? @Thunder what did you do? @allanyed are there any documents that give those dimensions? thanks Tim
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Thanks Allan @allanyed what an amazing amount of detail we can call on from that period. Interesting that the oar ports had their own lids Tim
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Wood staining
oakheart replied to sticker's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I have used these by Woodeedoo on my latest build, I they look good NOTE: being water based, they do raise the grain which can show any sanding marks, so you do need to be careful with the rougher grades of sandpaper https://woodeedoo.com/wood-stain.html?bottle_size=tester-10-ml looks to be about the same price? Tim -
That's what I thought, I will not be messing with this model to show it. But there would have been an awful lot of water sloshing about on deck without any kind of drain. Tim
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Welcome to MSW. I know that feeling well, I just say to myself, get on and finish it Tim
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Waterways fixed in place, cleaned up and added some detail to the stern I need a couple of bits of moulding to cover the ragged edges. next job could be lining then gun ports. As I no longer appear to be following Bills original here I am not going to add port lids, KISS I think it will look better without them. Question, can anyone tell me if there would have been scuppers on a cutter like this? Tim
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I like your solution, it saves cutting the rabbet which can be difficult to get right. Tim
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