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ddp
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Everything posted by ddp
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i thought it was supposed to be white walls on the inside with purple floors with pink polkadots & grey on the outside? -
even overspray on the steering servo?
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what are the bluejacket railings made from, pe, 3d printed or what? the canvas can be made from tissue paper then painted same color as vertical side of superstructure.
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- Pillsbury
- Clemson-class
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what material are you going to make the 2 prop guards out of?
- 23 replies
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- Pillsbury
- Clemson-class
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is the paint oil based or water based? can try the warm water but doubt it will work. could use another piece of tape sticky side down to try to remove the tape residue.
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if it is concerning the Alaska then is to late as it should have been wash, dried & sun baked before starting the model.
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i think your black waterline is too high as should be below the reinforcing hull strake not above it according to the US Navy's Booklet of General Plans of that class i have saved on my computer.
- 23 replies
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- Pillsbury
- Clemson-class
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i have plans for 1958 & 1967, which do you want? will need your email to send them.
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the bofor mounts will be the same colors as the surrounding camouflage both vertical & horizontal.
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the model is riding to low which means the model is to heavy. even the red part of the hull is to high as the waterline should be just above the prop not as high as yours, even the plan's author's model is riding higher then yours. the plans i linked before shows all that info.
- 46 replies
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- Puncher
- escort carrier
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i think your model has to much weight causing it to ride low so that even on calm water, the wave action is almost getting into the bow area when compared to this link. https://www.navsource.net/archives/03/0305307.jpg https://www.navsource.net/archives/03/053.htm
- 46 replies
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- Puncher
- escort carrier
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warm water with dish detergent, rubbing alcohol or both then sun light for 30 plus minutes.
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i know that the platform is to overhang but the upper half of the tower is not to overhang but be vertical flush with the lower half of the tower.
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to me kitbashing is when modifying a model's appearance to look totally different from the original appearance like these. kitbashing Revell's 1/429 scale USS Arizona into the OBBs(old battleships) of ww2 from the Wyoming class to the Colorado class. on the 2nd item, look at this link which is of the real ship as it shows that halfmoon projection that Canute says were it should be. http://www.navsource.net/archives/01/016384a.jpg in this cropped view of the forward superstructure from Missouri's Booklet of General Plans 1944 that i linked above, you can see that except for the different platforms, the vertical front face of the tower is vertically aligned flush unlike yours which is sticking out past the lower part of the tower.
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would not call it "kitbashing" but "corrective surgery".
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what i am calling the base which the tower is sitting on is actually the "secondary conning station". look at these plans as there is a problem to your model in in that area & maybe more. BB-63 USS Missouri Booklet of General Plans (1944) https://archive.org/details/bb63bogp1944 https://archive.org/details/ship-design-drawings?tab=collection&query=uss+missouri http://www.navsource.net/archives/01/63a.htm
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is the section of the forward superstructure circled in red glued to the section circled in yellow because if yes then there are some problems. 1: the red section is to far forward causing it to overhang the yellow section as both sections' faces should be vertically flush. 2: the red section minus it's base platform is in reverse in that the flat front should be towards the bow & the rounded angled back should be facing the stern.
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the stern gun tubs are too far forward causing the catapults to overhang those gun tubs.
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you must be glad that you also did not glue them solid as then that would be an extremely serious problem to try to fix.
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if your model had the 2 rudders & 4 props like the real ship had, then your model might have handled better then it currently does.
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