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Everything posted by ddp
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what is the thickness of the resin at the top of that opening & then look at Sheet 4 - Outboard Profile Port & Sheet 10 - Main Deck.
- 176 replies
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- new orleans
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what aircraft & armament comes in the kit to see what time period the kit represents?
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- Enterprise
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even tho it is a different ship, the Yorktown was the lead ship of the class that the Enterprise & Hornet was part of. CV-5 USS Yorktown Booklet of General Plans (1940) https://archive.org/details/cv5bogp1940 https://www.navsource.org/archives/02/06.htm http://www.cv6.org/ship/big_e.htm
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CA-139 USS Salem Booklet of General Plans (1949) https://archive.org/details/ca139bogp1949 https://archive.org/details/ship-design-drawings
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- Newport News
- Very Fire
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to pin the 20mm mounts into instead of using double sided tape to hold the mounts in place for painting. could also use plastercine to do the same thing.
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if you were on the real ship, you would have to be on your hands & knees to barely feel the grooves between the planks. have you ever been on a wood hull/deck of a cabin cruiser & felt any grooves between the deck /hull planks. also at 1/350 scale, you would not feel or see the grooves unless way over scaled. put the props on near the end as less chance of breakage due to handling.
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CB-1 USS Alaska Booklet of General Plans (1946) (version 1) https://archive.org/details/cb1bogp1946 CB-1 USS Alaska Booklet of General Plans (1946) (version 2) https://archive.org/details/cb1bogp1946v2
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so i presume the kit's instructions did not tell you where to locate those paravanes, correct?
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why are your 2 forecastle deck paravanes laying on the deck instead of stacked vertically against the forward bulkhead? the CV-17 USS Bunker Hill Booklet of General Plans 1946 shows them stacked vertically against the forward bulkhead. CV-17 USS Bunker Hill Booklet of General Plans (1946) https://archive.org/details/cv17bogp1946
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could also be some of the Early Essex class ships as some of them had hanger deck catapults til removed later in the war. USS Yorktown (CV-10) 2 H4B hydraulic catapults (1 flight deck, 1 hangar deck) https://www.navsource.org/archives/02/10.htm
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find out first which part of the model's hull matches the width in the body plan drawing so that you have a base point from which to add or subtract plastic to/from the hull. have you had a chance to look at the link that has the 1940's plans of the Yorktown? right now when looking at the upside down model where the bottom at amidships joins to the sides, it does not look right shapewise for an aircraft carrier but that of a tanker. look at the red circles in the attachment & compare it to the drawings.
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Patrick, how many pages are your Floating Drydock Plans? are you going to put the armor belt on the hull as i don't see it? i don't you need to cut the hull but maybe pull in the sides part way up the hull when looking at your body plan drawing. how thick are the kit's sprues as could be used to help pull the sides in? what does the bottom of the bow look like?
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CV-5 USS Yorktown Booklet of General Plans (1940) https://archive.org/details/cv5bogp1940 USS Yorktown (CV-5) https://www.navsource.org/archives/02/05.htm the .50" machine guns are the water cooled version not air cooled.
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Mike, deck is supposed to be flat & camber is side to side not front to back. have a look at this link. LPH-9 USS Guam Booklet of General Plans (196X) https://archive.org/details/lph9bogp196x Spiff, you are welcome. take a look at that link i just posted.
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approx. how much is the bottom of the bow & stern raised in relation to the midships? had the reverse issue with my 1/429 scale OBB's so i ran them thru a belt sander that resolved that issue as now the keel is flat from bow to stern.
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tape the deck in place not glue it as would be easier for adjustments if deck is removable.
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give a slight sand to both the plastic sheet & the top of the hull to give the glue more surface area to attach to. put a shim or whatever between the deck & hull top but not glued then use the compass at the widest part of the gap with 1 part of the compass sliding across the deck & the scribe part of the compass to the hull at the widest part. slide the top part of the compass along the deck edge as the scribe part of the compass scribes a line parallel to the deck into the hull till you reach the end of the gap. cut away the material above the scribed line till the end of the gap. now the gap should have the same width from the front to the back of the gap which you can now fill with strips of plastic & once the glue has cured, can carve/sand that area to proper shape. once primed & painted, you won't know that there was a gap there. even tho i currently only work with plastic, i use that same principle on my 1/429 scale OBB's & my gaps are almost non-existant with hardly any putty use.
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what glue & what materials are you going to use to fill that gap between the hull & flight deck? do you have a compass/divider?
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how flat does the keel lay on a flat straight surface?
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