Sergey Karelia

On 2/7/2024 at 11:00 PM, abelson said:

The fairleads are for the buntlines and leechlines. I plan to simply tie off the buntlines and leechlines to the fairleads as some other build logs have done. 

thanks I'll do this

Good afternoon!
This is a photo from your post
Tell me, please, where will you take these ends of the ropes? Or will you set sails?
I don't know what to do on my model. I'm already thinking about not putting these blocks.

Good job and serious plans! I think 4 mm will be big too.

I tried these, but I put 2.5 mm single block and 3 mm double  block, since the hooks also reduce the distance to the eye bolt. especially on the moving part of the carriage.

Have a good time!
If you understood correctly, then see the photo.
It is better to assemble the bowsprit completely, and then install it.
It will be very inconvenient to fasten and tie the rigging

a magnificent cannon!

but I would replace the threads with more textured ones.

I made a couple of similar guns, but yours is certainly much better!

you have a good build for the first job!

of course there are minuses, the main thing is not to lose motivation and finish the model. and then you will build the next ship

2 hours ago, abelson said:

I also made the faux sheave for “Top Rope.” I have not found the Top Rope that passes through this sheave anywhere on the plans. If anyone knows what this is, please feel free to let me know

This is yard rope (if I understood the question correctly)

I didn't put all the blocks from the drawing, because I don't plan to set sail and some blocks will remain empty

so it is!

I saw it on my model

Good time! And what is this?

I was building a spray, I don't remember such an element. I did cabin interiors and lighting.

I still have a few photos of this model. The ship is far away from me now. An old friend of mine started building it as a child, but he couldn't finish it. For thirty years the ship lay in a forgotten shed. I completed it and returned it to a friend. photos of the initial state and the finished ship are attached.

(light switch button - galley pipe)

Tav1.tifI'm going to build Santa Maria too

the ship is amazing in beauty and detail! you are lucky to have such a set

I saw it here:

http://www.chez-xandra.eu/publ/16

thank you! I will work

does anyone have examples of Blue Shadow builds? to strive for

I started deck repairs

I think there will be difficulties with replacing broken deck boards

i suspended work on Niagara. moved to another topic

Blue Shadow Mamoli - - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800 - Model Ship World™

About 10 years ago, I assembled a Blue Shadow model from MAMOLI.
Then I had few skills and collected everything according to the instructions. The model turned out to be childishly naive, but cute. Mainly due to the rich rigging.
Two years ago, I replaced all the rigging with threads of my own twisting, as the threads from the set were covered with dust and began to look not presentable. And he gave this ship to his colleague.
For better preservation, I made a showcase, but it did not fit into the interior of my friend and he took it off. And it so happened that the children dropped the model. The results of the crash are in the photo. Now I have to put Niagara aside and do the restoration of Blue Shadow.
I'm thinking of making the model better than it was. There is a lot of work to be done:
- I've already cut all the rigging. Completely;
- I will clear the deck, the deck will need to be cleaned of varnish and brought to the same color, I will add imitation nagels;
- I will make a new becket, a pump, make a minimum strapping of guns, modify anchors, replace channels and yufers and blocks (I will make smaller);
- maybe I'll add something else.

thus, for the third time I take up this model

if you put the shrouds individually (at the end of each loop, pic 1), then do not glue the mast, topmast and stengabram-topmast together.

if the shrouds are paired, then you can glue (pic 2)

do not forget about the gap between the mast parts, so that you can then carry out the rigging

and have a good build!

I just wanted to help because I made the same mistake myself.

then I redid it

good job! but the blocks on the exelhoft must be moved forward. and so the rigging yards will cross the shrouds. I drew a picture

I will make yards blocks like yours. that's cool😎

you can see it better in this photo. this is even before the oil covering

over the past couple of days, we have only managed to prepare the threads. I made 10 meters each.

it will take much more. I decided to remake the guns. I did well, but I can do better

Hi! I saw your model. great job! is this ring not too far from the end of the cathead? it will have the end of the anchor block on it. or is it wrong?

on the advice of an expert, I omitted davit cleat

I didn't take a photo, maybe tomorrow

fixed the node. wrapped the end of the rope