Der Alte Rentner

After a week's downtime, due in part to a pit bull attack, and exacerbated by a power failure that took my shipyard off line, I returned to work this morning and knocked off the galley stack hatch.  (Chapter 4.3.4, if you're following along with the Hunt practicum.)

As with the previous hatches, I found it easier to work with mitered corners than the lap joinery Hunt used.  I realized after I was finished that I didn't need to produce another coaming piece.  I could simply have used the same material I used to make the basic box, and filled the space under the plans on the stack side of the coaming with a slightly smaller filler block.  Oh well..  I like the idea of the filler block because it made easy work of planking the stack end of the hatch.  I just applied glue to five sides of the block and shoved it into the opening from the bottom.  

My router table was still setup from fabricating the strips I made for the two forward hatch coaming, so it took less than a minute to make the blank for the center piece.  For that 1/32" overlap, I used the Proxxon mill to cut out the notch.  Once the stack hatch coaming was assembled, I reduced the height of the stack side of the coaming by milling away 1/32".  

I little trimming here, a little sanding there, and viola, galley stack hatch done.  

Cutting the notch.

Gally Stack Hatch Coaming from the bottom.  Note the filler block below the coaming.

I realized afterwards that I used 5 planks (3.2mm each) instead of the 7 Hunt used.  Not worth it to me to correct that error.

On 4/16/2024 at 10:48 AM, Der Alte Rentner said:

On 4/16/2024 at 10:08 AM, SUBaron said:

After some thought, I decided to make a tenon separate from the bowsprit. It’s fitted tightly to the laser cut bulkhead mortise and feeds through it into a mortise I cut into the bowsprit. For some reason - my brain preferred this method - it was quick, easy and sturdy. 

whatever floats your boat.. Great fit!

As I approach that part of the build where I need to fabricate and (dry) fit the mast, I may be coming around to your line of thinking when it comes to the tenons at the bottoms.  I experimented with carving a tenon one end of a dowel and was not thrilled with the result.  Even if the tenon is flush-mounted and reinforced with a nail after I test the fit, the method your brain preferred may indeed be the better option.

15 hours ago, Bill Morrison said:

You are not really on your own. It's just that I am somewhat confused by what you are trying to accomplish in the photos. Perhaps a more detailed description would work well with the photos.

 

Bill

I am struggling to find the right word to describe the asymmetry between the port side and starboard side curves for the deck on the bulkheads. Camber?  

I had to shim up a couple of bulkheads so that there wouldn't be peaks or valleys when it came time to plank the deck.  Checking the photo from above in post 170, I can see that the worst offenders were bulkheads D and P.  Those needed to be to shimmed up on the port side of both.  For bulkheads A and C, It seems that I trimmed the Starboard sides.  I believe I laid planks on top of the bulkheads to find the high and low spots and/or asymmetry before trimming or adding to these four bulkheads.

Hope that helps.

On 5/25/2024 at 6:08 PM, mtbediz said:

On 5/25/2024 at 11:42 AM, CiscoH said:

looks great 

i’m on hatches in my build as well.  in the time it took me to make jigs to build 1 text corner of a hatch you completly built all of yours!  And they look perfect

Thank you my friend. I have very useful machines, they make my job easier.

Even with machines, I can't produce as quickly as you.  If doesn't help that my shipyard has been without power for nearly a week..

As always, your workmanship and productivity impress.

On 5/17/2024 at 10:32 AM, Der Alte Rentner said:

for the benefit of anyone following Hunt's directions for constructing hatch comings. On pages 19 and 20 in Chapter 4, Mr. Hunt provides detailed instructions for fabricating the material needed for the coamings.  Likewise on page 40 for the main hatch.  He glues up three pieces of stock for each coaming.  To boot, for the shorter coamings, because the kit didn't come with 3/32"x7/32" stock, he trims a piece of 3/32"x1/2" stock for the center piece.  All well and good.  But on page 26, where he shows the parts of the coaming in photo (P4.3.1-1), he says, "I made these pieces from a single piece of basswood with edge rabbets milled, but the principle is the same."  I think I'll go the milling route myself.  (I sure hope the zero clearance ring for my router table arrives soon. That will allow me to easily mill the material myself.)  

(Quoting myself..)

I decided not to wait on the zero clearance rings for my router table.  As it turns out, they weren't needed.  Milling the hatch coamings was relatively easy using existing machinery - Delta Thickness sander, Wood Pecker router table, and Proxxon mini table saw.  

1.  I had some scrap 1/4" basswood sheet and used my thickness drum sander to work that down to 5/32".

2.  Set up my router table with a bit height of 1/32".  Used my Incra fence to dial in the distances for the rabbets.  Easily done with this tool!  Once zeroed out to the sacrificial fence, I could set the fence to 1/16", 1/8" and 3/16" rabbet depths.  

3.  Cut rabbets on both sides of the board.

4.  Marked the rabbet depths on the boards (old school method - ruler and pencil) and 

5.  Cut to the line on the Proxxon table saw - the least easy tool to set up.  Because I couldn't get the precision I desired across multiple cuts, I 

6.  Revisited the thickness drum sander to nail the coaming heights.  As narrow as these coamings are, they nevertheless stayed vertical on their way through the drum sander.  (sorry, no pictures of that machine here.)

7. Fabricate hatch two coamings - the one forward of the foremast, and the one that abuts the bowsprit.

Note:  I found the business of making lap joints tedious and opted for miter joints instead.  Power tools were of no particular help in their construction, except the belt sander did make shaping the forward part of the bowsprit coaming easier to trim and shape.  Hobby miter box and saw were the tools du jour. 

(I didn't bother marking all the dimension on this sketch.  The grid represent 1/32" squares.  The dimensions (after double checking) came from Bob Hunt's practicum.  Chapter 4.

Rather than start another entry for these two hatch coamings, I added the photo to this post.  

On 5/18/2024 at 12:51 PM, GGibson said:

Lots of research and reading to do once I get to that point!

Amen to that my friend!

I am so sorry that my innocent comment initiated such consternation.  I only mentioned the scale issue as an aside. My apologies to you good sir.

Hi there Mustafa.

While perusing your earliest posts (I wanted to see what scale you were using to construct your Constitution), I saw that in a reply to me in your post #3, you added the photos you used in post #340 above in your reply to Greg about how you built your ladders.   

Just an FYI.

(I don't know why, and this is why I checked your scale in post #1, but your photos make your Conny seem much larger than mine).

On 5/18/2024 at 9:13 AM, JSGerson said:

I don't have any more relevant images after his post #261 (Sep 8, 2014) which you stated you downloaded.

Thanks for the follow up, but I've got everything of relevance to me already downloaded.  No need for the earlier stuff.   

Best.

Peter

19 hours ago, mtbediz said:

That is why I don't buy kits

Mustafa, if I had your level of expertise and experience, instead of being a newbie, I too would be building only from scratch. By the way he hasn't finished it, but cookster started a different build from scratch that you might want to have a look at.

Wow, that is fantastic. Since I finished the hull planking and am starting the spar deck, anything you have subsequent to his last Conny post would be of interest.  I already uploaded everything that's there as of yesterday.

Thanks Jon.

Just venting today..

While I ponder finishing options, I began working on the spar deck and hatch coamings. Thankfully, I double checked everything in the practicum before committing too much material and time to this phase of the build. 

1. Hunt's instructions are to cut the foremast from 7/16" dowel and to make the opening in its mast partner to fit that diameter stock.  The plans call for 3/8" inch, and the laser cut mast boot is likewise sized for a 3/8" foremast.  

2. Hunt's instructions provide distances from the center line for the hatch coaming framework.  There were several discrepancies there, as compared to the plans - most notably the dimension for the framework between bulkheads D and E.  (my take?  Trust, but verify.) 

3. Adding another Practicum observation (May 20) for the benefit of anyone following Hunt's directions for constructing hatch comings. On pages 19 and 20 in Chapter 4, Mr. Hunt provides detailed instructions for fabricating the material needed for the coamings.  Likewise on page 40 for the main hatch.  He glues up three pieces of stock for each coaming.  To boot, for the shorter coamings, because the kit didn't come with 3/32"x7/32" stock, he trims a piece of 3/32"x1/2" stock for the center piece.  All well and good.  But on page 26, where he shows the parts of the coaming in photo (P4.3.1-1), he says he 

I think I'll go the milling route myself.  (I sure hope the zero clearance ring for my router table arrives soon. That will allow me to easily mill the material myself.)  

4. Once again, the materials provided with the Model Shipways kit disappoint.  All the dowels for the masts (5/6", 3/8" and 7/16") are misshapen - the 3/8" piece is completely warped.   Were I to go ahead with the 7/16" dowel for the foremast, there wasn't enough material provided to then be able to construct the main mast. The dowels are all different colors ranging from near white to mahogany.  Also, there wasn't enough 3/32" x 1/4" stock to complete the hatch coaming framework.  Last but not least, the material for the deck planking is off by as much as a 64" inch in width and thickness.   

Having spent much time reviewing Cookster's 2013 build log for the spar deck and coamings (wow!), I've decided not to mess around with cruddy materials going forward.  Even if I paint every thing later, I'm going to give myself better options by ordering replacement material from Modeler's Sawmill.  

(and before you ask, no, I'm not going to waste my time contacting Model Expo, where I bought the kit.  I'm still waiting on the replacement material for the hull planking they said they were sending on December 1 of 2023.  (Ticket #22286: replacement stock for USS Constitution kit))

Not sure where I'll invest my energy while I await material delivery.  Maybe start the side galleries?  Or take advantage of the nice weather?   

I'll add my voice to those concerned about your health and well being.  Loved your build log on the Model Shipways Constitution, and was sorry to see you stopped posting - hmmm, that was about the time you started this build..  Your workmanship and attention to detail are outstanding.   Hope to hear from you soon'.

Best

Peter

Wes,

I found your build log yesterday while researching planking of the spar deck.  You haven't posted since November of 2014, so may have given up on your build.  I hope not.  If you're still occasionally checking in, I hope you're okay, and that you get back to the shipyard and this log sometime soon.

All the best

Peter

I've been following your Isabella build, and wondered why there haven't been recent updates there.  No I know why.  Boy do you like to keep a lot of balls in the air in your juggling.   

The planking here looks great.  As you know, I debate (almost endlessly) with myself on the matter of painting vs showing off the workmanship.  I'm still wrestling with that, but see you've made your decision.  Looking forward to seeing the end result.

Keep up the good work, and looking forward to your return to Conny (after you finish this and Isabella?)

Hi there Mustafa, 

Did you stain the hornwood you used for the decking?  Or is that just the way it looks with a coat of poly?  

Thanks,

Peter

For those of you who want a black hull, of all the things I've tried, Old Masters Carbon Black Gel Stain netted the absolute best result. Two light applications with a foam brush, solid black, no warping of the wood, and I know from experience, once it's cured, it will take a coat of clear polyacrylic.

I will experiment further, to see if this can be applied over polyacrylic as well.

Hello!  In my digging through older build logs here, I found one by Cookster, who seems to be as finicky about workmanship and finish as I am.   In his build log, on page 3 post 76, he discussed the merits of aniline dye.  (This link takes you to page three of his build log).  He seems not to have finished the project, but I will be consulting the build intently as I work through the planking of the spar deck. 

15 hours ago, GGibson said:

Nice looking pedestal!  Is the center brace a part of the practicum or was that an add-on?  Looks great and provides additional support, I am sure.

Chapter 3 ends with Mr. Hunt building a base with materials he had on hand.

This is my own design, based on some photos of model ship bases I saw on the internet. The brass pedestals required counter sinking to allow the brass flat head screw to lie flush.

I got the shape for the cradle from the plans for Buckhead J, which seemed to be the right place in the hull for the support.

Some tweaking with drum sander required for good fit.

While I'm experimenting with paints, stains, dies, and finishes, I finished the last task in Chapter 3 of the practicum.

22 hours ago, Gregory said:

Have you considered doing a 2nd planking with veneer?

You would have many options as to wood type.

Yes,  yes I have.  However, as long as it took to get the first round of planking done, I'm not really thrilled about the prospect of repeating the process.  My thoughts this morning are to try the stain first.  If I like the way it looks, great.  If not, covering the hull with the planking material provided in the Constructo kit may be preferable to painting..

P.S.  your signature phrase, “Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett  Made me LOL!

On 5/6/2024 at 8:42 AM, GGibson said:

Great explanation and, as always, great work, Mustafa.  Thanks for taking the time to document and explain. 👍

Gotta love that Proxxon mill.  

On 5/8/2024 at 6:15 PM, SUBaron said:

Generally- Do you recommend applying the poly, then primer, then paint? Or does the poly negate the need for primer?

 

cheers!

Frankly, I have no idea, hence the experimentation.  My guess is poly negates the need for primer.  BTW, I did some prior experimentation with primer and think this is a complete waste of time.  You'll still need multiple coats of paint to adequately cover the primer.

Last night I tried making a paint by mixing a few drops of dye with a tsp of clear polyacrylic.  The resultant paint netted about the same awful result as the paint supplied by Model Shipways when I purchased my kit.  It will take multiple coats (at least 4) of either to get a uniform coat - and the brush marks are decidedly unsightly.   Were I committing to a black hull, I would definitely opt for the black dye.  It goes pitch black in one application.  Covering with poly may require many coats though, as the polyacrylic seems to dissolve the dye on the first two coats I've applied so far in this test.

As lousy as the results with paint have been in my experimentation, be it the Model Shipway product or my home made dye/poly paint, I would need to consider spray paint/air brush options, if paint ends up being the direction I choose.  The cleanest results are with gel stain followed by poly.   I could stain the entire hull and decide later to cover with paint, if I don't like the way it looks.  Boy, do I wish I'd chosen better materials in planking than this cruddy basswood.  If I'd known at the start of this project that wood matters, I may have used the Constructo kit materials on the Conny build instead.  Live and learn.

P.S.  Sorry, I forgot to answer your question about using dye on the cannons.  I don't think this would work.  If you want to experiment, let me know how that works for you.  Cannons are a ways off for me right now.  Wouldn't spray primer followed by spray black (or the combo primer/paint product) be the simplest approach?  I've used Rustoleum spray on metal before with great results.  

Experimenting with stains and finishes begins.  This will take some time because I'm trying oil based gel stain, which I've grown to love using on larger refinishing projects.  According to information gleaned from the internet, the curing time needs to be between 24 hours and 3 days before covering with polyacrylic varnish.  Why polyacrylic?  Because that's what the Hunt practicum advises.  He applies no less than four coats of this to the hull after planking but before painting.  (why? oh why? Mr. Hunt does your practicum not address painting the hull below the gunports?  and why would you need four coats of polyacrylic before you apply three coats of black paint? - but I digress..)  

Since I'm still hoping to stick with a natural finish, I want a better/darker color than the kit's basswood hull planking provides.  

My first experiment is the plank section on the left.  Tried a combination stain/finish in walnut, with the plank in the middle unstained surrounded by one and two coats of the walnut.  Next up are three samples using Old Master's gel stain and one Old Master's wipe on stain.  The gel is easier to work with, but since I did have one open can of the American walnut, I threw it into the mix.  The other three colors are maple, cherry and pecan.  The last piece in the mix has only one coat of polyacrylic - so far.  After the stains cure, I plan to apply four coats of polyacrylic to those samples as well.  Lastly, I'm going to experiment with gluing various parts to these samples to see how well Super Glue holds.   

While I wait,  time to finish the last step in chapter 3 of the practicum - build a base for Conny.  I had a nice slab of oak left over from another project and reacquainted myself with my router table.  Oh Gee!  is that an ogee?  Pedestal fabrication is next.  I may unbox my Proxon lathe and try turning the pedestals myself.  

Another option:  Black dye.  I used this with fantastic results on another project years ago where I wanted to simulate ebony.  Now, to use this, I'd either have to apply it to the wood before doing anything else (besides sanding), or I'd have to mix it with clear polyacrylic.  Here, I applied the dye directly to unfinished basswood sample.  I wasn't happy to see the warping, but think this won't be a problem on the hull, given everything seems to be solidly affixed.   If I decide to paint, then this option would give me a solid black color in one pass. 

When I return to the ship yard,  I'm going to try mixing the dye with polyacrylic.  Most likely I will still try one of the stains above first.  If I'm unhappy with the result, back to plan B, which is to cover with polyacrylic, then to paint.   I have experimented with the paint before and learned that multiple coats would be required to cover properly.  Hopefully with a dye/poly I can get by with one?

6 minutes ago, SUBaron said:

why not work on the ship's boats next? Those look like a lot of fun. Some folks actually started with those.

Frankly, those boats have always looked like they're painful to construct.  Now that I've gotten some experience working with gouges (including the sharpening thereof), I might revisit the topic - sooner rather than later. 

.. having reviewed the Hunt videos on this just now, I'm leaning towards later rather than sooner. 

In the (very) short term, I'll enjoy a respite from the shipyard, poring over build logs, gathering information, ideas and inspiration.   

24 minutes ago, rlwhitt said:

If I could plank that good I'd be loathe to cover it in paint or copper. 

If I knew I could achieve the results you did with the Essex, I'd be loathe NOT to paint and copper!   Thanks.