Der Alte Rentner
-
Posts
602 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Der Alte Rentner
-
I know this reply comes well after your posting, but I happened to be reviewing Geoff's build log this morning, to see how his galleries looked, when I revisited this entry. To my eye, there is definite tapering aft of the main hatch. I agree however that it's hard to tell what's going on on the foredeck, but it seems less so. Anyway, now that I'm past that problem, I'm happy with my half and half approach - tapering the aft end, leaving the foredeck untapered. As usual, oh master of the photo archives, thanks for providing this much appreciated reference material. -
I love all the work on the airplanes, but I'm perusing your build log for ideas on how to proceed on the gallery window construction. I wish there was more detail provided, but your photos from page 1 of your log tell most of the story. Man, oh man, did you do a spectacular job. Kudos! You've got me rethinking how might go about doing mine.
-
Thank you Gregg. I consider that a great compliment coming from you. After seeing all the examples of gallery construction I could find at MSW, I think I might be the only one ever to attempt this particular approach. Hmm, will I henceforth be known as "the Filler Block guy". 😁 I took a second lap through other's build logs this morning and took particular note of Unegawahya's workmanship. I wish he'd included some detail about his construction methods, but man, oh man! did he nail this.
-
After perusing your build log here, and seeing the wonderful job you're doing on the Pegasus, I wonder what you could possibly hope to glean from anything I've done on the USS Constitution, especially since I'm a newbie figuring things out on the fly. In fact, I might come to you for some tips and techniques. Splendid work!
-
I found a few hours this morning to get to the shipyard and did some retro-fitting, and hopefully finished up the components of the starboard gallery. My plan is to pull the filler block out of the center, mark where the windows and plasters should be, then (sigh) fabricate both. I have been toying with the notion of painting the windows on. We'll see how that goes.. Resuming my hiatus. Back in a few.
-
Oh, well, yeah....! Now it makes perfect sense! <shrug> 🤣🤣 Having taken drafting in high school and drawing classes at a Community College in the lead up to my retirement, I have some perspective on perspective and actually understand the point Jon is trying to make. I didn't upload the photo, but I am pretty far along with the filler block, which has me reconsidering the use of those pre-fab parts. I just don't like the way they fit. So, I may be constructing windows of my own after all. I'm taking a few days off to ponder my existence. Rest assured, I will not be "vanishing" at this point. 😁 Back in a few...
-
I'm taking a different approach to sills and headers. (Nothing is glued in yet. Double sided tape is holding the roof cap, roof carving, flat, top part of header, and bottom part of header in place.) And I'm going to try a different approach for the windows too. I'm leaning towards making a curved filler block shaped to fit this opening, and afixing the windows to the filler block. We'll see how that goes..
-
Cheer up Gregg. I achieved a much better result on my 2nd attempt.
-
Nuts! Close, but no cigar. Exaggerated transom angle is now interfering with the roof structure of the gallery. I'm going to have to lengthen it at least a quarter inch at the bottom edge, so to mitigate what looks to portend a rather extreme angle by the forward Gallery window. Back to the drawing board..
-
Just curious. They look great, but will you be furling or somehow shaping the sails at some point?
- 144 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- HMS Speedy
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
I intend to do exactly that. Problem illustrated: 7-degree difference between aft edge of window and leading edge of transom. My first thought on correcting the error. Fail! The most likely solution. I can live with slightly less than parallel pilaster. Turns out that even the Constitution actual has less than perfectly parallel pilasters. It's interesting to see how different build logs address this. But I have my direction. Thanks for your feedback Jon.
-
I'll start looking! At my age, any time saved at the shop translates to more time allotted for actually finishing the model. 😁 Thanks for your feedback.
-
Please don't tell me those turnbuckles work. If so, did they come that way in the kit? Or do you have a motorized micro metal lathe with which to cut the threads. (mostly kidding! 😁) Looking fabulous there John Ruy!
- 184 replies
-
- 4
-
-
-
- Bluenose
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
I don't think that's the issue Gregg. Furthermore, as I dive deeper into the details in the Practicum on this, I'm discovering more issues associated with the galleries. Hunt crafted his windows out of styrene because the slant on the window frame of the laser cut pieces was different than that of the stern transom. That prompted me to check the angle of my stern transom. Sure enough, the transom is 9-degrees steeper than the window. Funny. Hunt's advice is to not make the galleries to fit the windows, rather make the windows fit the gallery. Comparing Hunt's photos to the plans, I think the reason his measurement is greater is because he may have left out two components to the gallery roof - the "roof cap" and the "flat". These are the two 1/16" thick panels above and below the "roof block". Were that not in the plan, then sliding my wooden gauge up would account for the difference (more or less). I've learned that haste is waste. I'm going to follow the plan, and not Hunt's practicum on the gallery build. And I think I will try to make a 9-degree shim to place on top of the side piece so that the laser cut windows can indeed be used. Really? Build 6 ea. styrene windows? I think not! Thanks for chiming in Gregg.
-
The Practicum makes a big deal out of "the height from the top of the side piece we already installed to the bottom of the roof piece." According to Hunt, if I measure this space on the kit plans, it's supposed to measure 25/32". That's not what I see in my copy of the plans, either on page 4 or the quarter Gallery details on page 5. The distance that I measure is 3/64" less than the 25/32" that Hunt says it should be. Does it matter?
-
Um, where would one acquire a clothes wringer these days? Any suggestions for an alternative device to press the copper against the form you constructed?
-
I know this comment comes 8 years after rwiederrich's post, but had to throw in my two cent's worth. My bandsaw is equipped with a 1 1/4" resaw blade, and I can easily make veneer as thin as I please out of just about any wood. Had I known about this concept before planking my Model Shipway's version of the USS Constitution, I would have considered a rapid first planking followed by a second planking using the material provided in the Constructo kit I opted out of building. I might also have made a carrier for the deck planking, which would have been fist loads easier than putting filler blocks between all the bulkheads. Live and learn! BTW, I came here to see about rwiederrich's cloths wringer technique for the copper plating, which begins at post #51.
-
Thank you Gregg, Jon and Mustafa. I'm very happy with the result and am looking forward to doing something (anything!) else. Galleries? Cannons? For now, I'll treat myself to a double ration of grog. 😁
-
Mustafa has years of experience and the right tools for the job. That you could accomplish the same, given the ad hoc setup you had, is a testament to your tenacity. Nice job!
-
On the home stretch.
-
I'm sooooooo ready to be done with planking.. By the way, I'm not tapering planks forward of the main hatch. That is helping (slightly) to speed things along - and is in keeping with the Hunt practicum.
-
The switch to boxwood made carving out the three aft hatches quite difficult. I broke several Xacto blades in the effort, and I was disappointed to see the planking fore of the companionway/skylight hatch splinter. I hope that an application of wood putty later will hide the worst of it. Oh well, from here on in, it's all planking, all the time, until the deck is covered. In restospect, it would have been easier, and cleaner, to plank around those hatches; or to shave a sixteenth off the bottom of those hatches and, when the time comes, to simply glue the them on top of the planking. I have been able to take the short cut if not needing to fabricate three to four short segments per row of planking aft of the main hatch. That saved some time, as did being able to quickly make tapered planks with my fixture. I also stopped messing with wood glue along the lengths of these planks. Instead, I used small drops of CA glue roughly every quarter inch. And, I glued the long planks in two steps working to the rear from the main hatch. I glued half the plank in step one, and bent the remaining part of the plank to place glue on the substrate to finish the job. Calling it a day
-
I have the process down. I make five planks at a time using my tapering fixture, which turns out pretty consistent results. I made the planks long enough to fit the entire span between the main hatch and the transom, with a smidge to spare. These are then cut into segments to fit the plan. For each new pair of zones (5 planks per zone), I redo the measurements and recalculate the widths at the butt joint intersections. So far, no fine tuning with sand paper has been required. I'm set for the next 10 planks, but ran out of shop time today. Off to church..
-
Center 11 rows done. After the next two go in, I'll carve out the openings for the three hatches aft of the main hatch. Slow going, and I have to remeasure to update the spreadsheet for the next 10 rows.
Our Emblem ®
