Bluto 1790

Here we go again Albert - - - another masterpiece !!!
 
I can't decide if it's good for someone like me to be viewing your build logs as they really show up my deficiencies . . . but then it's so good to see such perfection, so I've decided - - - I'll definitely be following this! 

In three days I've been able to make the blanks of all nine frames.  Each frame required 13 pieces to be cut and laminated in two layers then glued together.  I used beech on one side of the lamination and plywood on the other side.  
After their visit to the bandsaw each frame was lightly sanded to get rid of most of the bandsaw marks, then as they're rather fragile I glued on a stabilising piece of plywood along their tops.  A frame finds a safe place while the glue sets  >

Each frame was placed directly onto an uncut copy of the body plan in order to establish the centreline on the floor timber at the keel as well as on the stabilising piece at the top  >  
 
Then there were nine  >   

Building a framing jig is something I've never done . . .  don't know how to . . . and have no plans or instructions, so that wasn't going to happen.
Another means of keeping the build square and true was needed.  After considerable time spent thinking about this I decided on these  > 

An explanation may be required here.  I'll try.
These two "things" are mirror images of each other and each have two vertical pieces of ply that in turn present a 90 degree angle to the melamine base.  Hopefully the 2 following photos may make it clearer  >


This next photo shows the two 'jigs' on the baseboard along with one of the frames  >   

These two jigs ensure that the frame is perpendicular to the base in a fore to aft direction.  To ensure that the top of the frame is definitely centralised across the keel I made this (the holes mean nothing - they were there before I used the board)  >   

This piece of board has a factory cut perfect right angle corner - - the notch cut out at the bottom corner is to allow the board to be placed against the keel and is shown in the following  >

And (in theory) works like this  > 

I used these 3 jigs with each frame in turn to establish their position on the keel and drilled a 3mm hole for a 3mm bamboo skewer 'dowel' to assist with the final gluing of the frames onto the keel  >   

I wanted to see how the frames might look on the keel so dry fitted them all onto the keel and placed a dowel down through each one.  I was a little surprised that just a dry dowel held the frames in a fairly stable position  >

That's quite encouraging for the actual glue-up.
 
. . . and on the subject of glue-ups - - - I started gluing the frames with PVA glue and fairly quickly a few of the joints failed.  I've had the occasional failure with that PVA previously so I had to re-do these failed joints.  Having lost faith in the PVA I opted to use what I call my T.N.P. glue ---"Take No Prisoners" glue, otherwise known in the civilised world as "Epoxy Resin".   No more failures with the epoxy!

As the building of my other model, H.M.S. Leopard at 1:80 took the best part of 9 years, I didn't want to take on another full-on model of a complete ship.
So, since I have basic drawings/plans of Leopard I'm going to have a try at a cross section.  As a section will require a lot less space for the finished item I wanted to exploit that and have increased the scale considerably.
. . . and to explain about the unusual scale of 1:44 - - - I had planned to have the previous drawings at 1:80 doubled and asked for that at the copy shop.  The enlarged copies didn't quite come out at twice the size.  At the widest point on the body plan the moulded breadth measures exactly 11 inches.  Compared to the 'real width' of the actual ship at 39 feet 10 inches that works out at 1:43.45 --- so, its official model scale will be called "1:44".
Okay, that's that out of the way.
As for the actual parts of the drawings and plans that I will need, some modifications have to be made before I can even think about creating more sawdust in my hut.
When I built my previous Leopard it was P.o.B. so the body plan was sufficient for creating the bulkheads but I have to modify that plan for creating frames.
All I have is this >>>

and one copy of a section at mid-ship >>>

I will need more than the 'half frames' that are available on the body plan, so, I had the image flipped horizontally and made a few copies >>>

I then cut two of the flipped copies down the centre line and pasted them onto 'right-way-round' copies and ended up with these >>>


These two copies above were the ones that came back from the copy shop at almost twice their original size. (I had 12 copies of the aft frame plan and 6 of the forward frame plans copied.)
The section drawing above is reasonably adequate as a rough guide to the basic shape of the mid-ship frame but I will have to make use of the body plan for the nine frames I intend to make.  It won't be a fully-framed section but instead the frames will equate to the positions of the bulkheads 13 to (B) shown in the plan below >>>


It will be a little longer than most sections I have seen as I want it to extend from just ahead of the companionway forward of the main mast back to the two capstans.
As a section at this scale would have a full height mainmast at around 1.6 metres (over 5 feet) I intend just to display with a 'stump' of a main mast as shown in the section drawing. (second image in this post.) 
This project is requiring a lot more advance planning than did my previous build before the sawdust stage so hopefully I'll have formulated a definite route to go by the next post.
(I have ideas -- just have to test them!) 

Just over nine years and it's now finished ~ well, I still have to make the boats, but for her own safety, Leopard will be going in her case as it will take some time to figure how on earth I'm even going to make a start on the boats.
 
A couple of months back I took some time out to fashion a base and supports for the ship. Here's the base with two pedestals >
Last year my neighbour was renewing her kitchen and was throwing out her 'old' cabinets and doors. The doors were solid oak ~ not just the frames, but the raised panels as well. Throwing out OAK - - - that should be a criminal offence!!!  (With her permission) I saved the lot and have made a few projects and also still have several of the doors 'in reserve'.
The oak board in the photo above was made from that saved timber as were the two turned pedestals. The pedestals alone won't support the ship as there is no provision inside the keel to make the ship vertically secure, so there is a central 'cradle' (also made from the oak) that will keep the ship on 'an even keel'. >>>    e

I routed a rebate (American - rabbet) all round the base so that the acrylic case will be 'anchored' and won't be able to slide around.
The case has been the most expensive single item in relation to the entire build.  I had considered obtaining acrylic sheets and making my own case but the amount of work involved in making a wooden frame guided me to the easier route of purchasing a commercially made item.
I also got a commercially engraved brass plaque >>>
(The brass plate is mounted on oak from my neighbour's kitchen!}  
 
And now, Leopard finds refuge away from the danger of a clumsy ship builder's hands and elbows as well as from the exploring hands of his grandchildren!   

Although I stated that it's been over nine years in the making, it's probably closer to six years as there have been a few considerably long lay-off periods.

Amalio ~ this has just got to be a full size real ship! . . . just amazing !!!

Although I haven't made a post on this thread before, I've been following for a while.
 
. . . and all I can say in this first post is WOW !!!
 
Such exquisite quality !

Just over nine years and it's now finished ~ well, I still have to make the boats, but for her own safety, Leopard will be going in her case as it will take some time to figure how on earth I'm even going to make a start on the boats.
 
A couple of months back I took some time out to fashion a base and supports for the ship. Here's the base with two pedestals >
Last year my neighbour was renewing her kitchen and was throwing out her 'old' cabinets and doors. The doors were solid oak ~ not just the frames, but the raised panels as well. Throwing out OAK - - - that should be a criminal offence!!!  (With her permission) I saved the lot and have made a few projects and also still have several of the doors 'in reserve'.
The oak board in the photo above was made from that saved timber as were the two turned pedestals. The pedestals alone won't support the ship as there is no provision inside the keel to make the ship vertically secure, so there is a central 'cradle' (also made from the oak) that will keep the ship on 'an even keel'. >>>    e

I routed a rebate (American - rabbet) all round the base so that the acrylic case will be 'anchored' and won't be able to slide around.
The case has been the most expensive single item in relation to the entire build.  I had considered obtaining acrylic sheets and making my own case but the amount of work involved in making a wooden frame guided me to the easier route of purchasing a commercially made item.
I also got a commercially engraved brass plaque >>>
(The brass plate is mounted on oak from my neighbour's kitchen!}  
 
And now, Leopard finds refuge away from the danger of a clumsy ship builder's hands and elbows as well as from the exploring hands of his grandchildren!   

Although I stated that it's been over nine years in the making, it's probably closer to six years as there have been a few considerably long lay-off periods.

Thanks for your comments Tom and Jason and the others for the likes.
 
The last of 1,892 ratline knots has now been tied!
(After the tedium endured tying them all I felt it was worth a couple of minutes to count them.)
They're all in this photo if you care to count them >>>

The above photo also reveals that all 3 topgallant/royal masts are now permanently in position.
With the exception of the mizzen royal stay and backstays, the mizzen is now virtually complete >>>
The braces for the topmast and topgallant yards are shown as being belayed to the taffrail but I felt that was going to be too crowded together with the lines that are already made off there, so I made a change to their tying off points.
The topgallant braces are routed like this >>>

. . . and the topsail braces like this >>>

Main royal stay and backstays, and fore topgallant and royal backstays still to be fitted then attention will be focussed on finishing the bowsprit and turning and preparing the remainder of the yards for fitting.
Foredeck and quarter deck cannons still to fitted and some work on the ship's anchors also await. 
 

Here we go again Albert - - - another masterpiece !!!
 
I can't decide if it's good for someone like me to be viewing your build logs as they really show up my deficiencies . . . but then it's so good to see such perfection, so I've decided - - - I'll definitely be following this! 

Hi guys n gals 
Can't believe it's been soooo long since I posted on here. Yes I'm still building the Trincomalee but a lot has happened between then and now. The pandemic, redesigning the back garden, donating a kidney to my other half and doing a commission build of a viking ship. Anyway I'm back on it and raring to go. The last thing I posted was about the figurehead, since then I've done the grating on deck (which took an age and was very monotonous) put the cannons in and now slowly adding bits to the hull.

Thanks for your comment, Mustafa.
 
'Front end' rigging all done now. Martingale fitted and also rigged.

That vertical 'stick' above the martingale isn't the bowsprit flagstaff, it's just a cocktail stick inserted where the flagstaff will eventually live.

I then fitted the main topsail yard >>>

Although the remaining 3 yards are 'ready and waiting' I've held off fitting them for now as there are a few other tasks that now need attention.

Among the other tasks are the anchors. The 2 smaller anchors were a bit of a disappointment when they arrived.  They only consisted of the basic undrilled anchor and the 2 pieces that make the stock. No flukes or metal to create the ring were included.

 The above picture also shows the flukes that I had to make. As I had no brass of the correct thickness I cut these flukes from 1mm thick maple that I had previously used for other tasks. I epoxied them on to the anchors. It didn't matter that they were wood as it all ends up black.

Thanks for your comments El Cid, Allan and Henry.
 
El Cid ~ I've ordered a full length mirror and some frilly underpants off ebay.
 
I've viewed several walk-thru videos of Victory on youtube hoping for some inspiration and will probably try a cabinet or two and some shelves similar to these ones in this screenshot from one of the videos >

 

MMDD ~  back in 2014, on my own build log of Leopard, Nenad posted about Larisa's Leopard >>>
 

At that time I could only find a couple of photos of her Leopard but your photos are great. I wish I could have found these photos back then . . . they would have been a great help to me in my attempts with my own build.
If you have any more photos of Larisa's Leopard I would love to see them.
Thanks. 

Hi everyone
I finally was able to finish the display case. Right now it is just sitting on an old table in my modeling room. We are about to start refurnishing some of the rooms in our house i.e. rugs, couches, bedrooms and what ever else pops up. These projects tend to morph into much more than you originally plan. 🤔Once everything is back in order I can put the case in it’s final home.  Here are some pics although the lighting was not to great. I plan on putting a couple of wireless light bars on the top glass plates to help with illumination. 

 

 

 

 

 
Now I am going to attack a birthday present from 3 years ago, a 9000 piece puzzle of the battle at Algiers. I think it measures approximately 5ft by 7ft if I remember correctly. It will make a nice wall hanging in my modeling room. 
Hopefully with a little help from my friends I can get the puzzle done by Christmas and then get started on a scratch build of the Charles W. Morgan.
 
Thanks again to everyone for the support during my Leopard build. 
 
Tom

Thanks Tom and to all those at the conference. The USS Constitution Model Shipwrights Guild did a wonderful job putting together this year’s show. The enjoyment this hobby brings is reward enough and to be acknowledged by your peers just adds to the journey. Thanks again to all those who helped me along the way with this build. It was nice to see everyone  and the models in person. 
 
Tom

The Northeast Joint Clubs meeting was yesterday.  About 100 models were on display, 48 of which were entered into the Jim Roberts Competition.  These were generally fantastic models.  I'm sure that everyone who follows this build load would want to know that HMS Leopard won the Jim Roberts Award at the meeting.  This competition is sponsored by the Ship Model Society of New Jersey (SMSNJ).
 
The Jim Roberts Award was created in memory of Jim Roberts, one of the founders of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey (then the Ship Model Society of Northern New Jersey).  As a modeler, Jim was noted for craftsmanship, beauty, and attention to detail of this models.  The criteria for this award are designed to identify the model that best exemplifies the standards to which Jim aspired. It is a judged competition and a judge is provided from each of the five clubs that form the conference. 
 
The Leopard also took the first place award in the Sail Category of the Peoples Choice.
 
Congratulates Tom on a truly beautiful model that was up against very stiff competition.
 
Tom Ruggiero

Earlier today I decided to make an attempt at Antony's suggestion.​
I slackened the locknut on the gib shown arrowed in the pic below, tightened the screw by hardly as much as half a turn . . . and the play was instantly gone. I quickly tightened the locknut before the 'lack of movement' changed its mind!
​
The table is now rock solid instead of rockin' an' rollin'​.
 
Thanks Antony and everyone who contributed here.
 

​

Hi JIm,
As far as sails they do change the way everything looks.  I think they are necessary if you are doing a diorama.  Not so much if just displaying a model. They added a few months to the build and added to the complexity of the rigging lines.   I may just do furled sails on the Morgan I will be doing just for something different.  We will see when the time comes. 😄
 
Thanks for the support and kind words over the course of my build.
Tom

WELL DONE, TOM! . . . CONGRATULATIONS!
 
She's looking superb, with the sails filled with all the available wind!  When I look at mine now it almost looks unfinished - - - the sails make a big difference.
And 4 1/2 years? . . . mine took me 9 years although there were a few lengthy lay-off periods.

Well the light at the end of the tunnel is shining brightly. After putting a lot of hours in the past couple of weeks I am ready to call my Leopard complete.  🍾. 
 
The journey was a bit long but was worth it in the end. Being my 2nd model and first scratch I expected it to be long but 4 1/2 years?  I would say a third of that was spent thumbing through reference books and a few breaks for weeks at a time.  Thanks again to all my MSW friends and my fellow club members at Connecticut Marine Modelers Society for all the help and advice. 
 
Here are a few pics of her all completed. Now I just have to build a base and case for her. After that I plan on taking some time to complete the 9000 piece puzzle I started but stored away a year ago. My next modeling adventure will be the Charles W Morgan whaler which is docked only about an hour away from me at Mystic. I hope to start that when the cold weather sets in. 
 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Thanks again to all,
Tom
 
 
 

Starting to put the rope coils on the belaying pins. Seems like this phase will take a while between making about 150+ coils and then placing them. 
These are on the port bulwark on the forecastle. 

 
This pic is just aft the main mast

 
Really trying to put some time towards finishing in time for the show. The last big hurdle is mounting the mizzen sail, gaff and boom. Also still need to figure out the belaying of those lines. Tick tock  goes the clock 😜. Shouldn’t be a problem but I need to stress about something. 🤣😜
 
Tom
 
 

Made a little more progress this weekend with the mizzenmast staysails, top gallant and top sails. I need to mount the crossjack then finally the mizzen sail. 



 

Currently debating whether I will put up the mizzen staysail or not. I left off the lowest staysails at the main and foremast so as not to cover up the deck detail. The gap from the deck to the bottom mizzen top mast staysail is higher than the other masts so it kind of seems out of balance.  Maybe it will even out when the crossjack is put up. Problem is it will be very difficult to get in there to install all the necessary blocks for the rigging now. 
 
Finally I need to go back and tie up the braces and make what seems like a thousand rope coils for the belaying pins and various odds and ends… all by mid September so it is ready for the Northeast conference 
 
Tom

Hi Tom,
If I had won the lottery I would have employed someone to get them pesky ratlines finished for me !!!

Hi all,
It has been a while since I posted but I am still picking away it when I can. Still have lines hanging all over the place but making progress. All the main staysails and mast sails are up with most of the lines rigged. Getting ready to move on to the mizzenmast area next. 

 
i need to pick up the pace if I am to get it finished for the Northeast conference at the beginning of October!  Funny thing though, the more things I knock off my “chores around the house” list the longer it gets!😜 That “work for a living” thing seems to be getting in the way a lot too!🤣😜
 
Tom

Hi Jim,
Your killing me.!!!  🤣  I need to go back and see if I can find out where I got my info.  I tend to believe your info more than mine.  I just went through16 feet just for the main royal and top gallant!   Maybe the 7 miles was just for the standing rigging?
 
Allan,
My ropewalk definitely is getting put through its paces. 😄
 
Tom