Anja

Hi Sjors
 
Your skills are very good Sjors.
 
I am doing pretty good, i have started on a new treatment, its a air shockwawe treatment.
i have had one treatment of this,and it fels like its working well.
I am still home until Mai 22 for now. After that i hope to start working 50% so i dont start to hard.
I have a very interesting tool project going on, will show you when i have the plans ready, it will be very exciting..
Say hello to Anja also, and wishes for a great experience in UK
 
Børge

Anja,
 
 
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
 
I am certain you have a lot of fun on your visits!
 
Cheers,
 
Jim
 

Nice start, Sjors!  I can handle 4 days, I guess, if I must....
 

you ofcourse meant just do what Anja wants

good luck with the changes Sjors. you know i just had a look and you are only about an hour 15 mins drive from where my dad lives. maybe i ll come and visit you (if i have transport there) and help you wiht your ratlines if you are stil lnot finished by then

Hello Dave,
 

 
Happy birthday!  Have a wonderful day.
 
Anja
 
 

currently........I am finished with the reef lines......YEA!!!!!!  
 
to get where I am,  the jib sheet need to be finished off
 


 
the second row  on the main sheet was being done
 



 
the other anchor was cut out of the wood......now they need to be sanded and shaped.   then they can be finished off and assembled onto the build.
 

 
on to the third row....
 

 
when I got back to her,  they were treated and trimmed.
 


 
the kit only came with a couple of 5mm double blocks......I added a couple more
 

 
and then the boom was sewn onto the bottom of the main sheet
 

Hi Sjors,
 
I really feel for you my friend. It's a big decision to pull apart something you've already made, but I can tell you from my own experience that the hardest part is actually making the decision to do so. After that, it's easy. When I decided to re-do the entire stern and quarter galleries on my Vic, it was for two reasons. Firstly, I just knew I was never going to be happy with the old version. The second, and perhaps more important reason that tipped me over the edge, was the support I knew I would have from people here, and in particular from Danny. I had no idea at all how to go about this daunting task, but Danny was able to guide me through it step by step, via long distance remote control (gotta love the Internet!). The end result may not be perfect, but it is a huge improvement over the previous version, and I am a better modeller for the experience. I am also much more confident about fixing other mistakes, or scratch building new parts.
 
Something for you to think on during your vacation........
 
I hope you both have a most enjoyable vacation and return refreshed and ready to make sawdust.

Wood conditioner will help even out the finish of the stain that you subsequently apply. Softer woods like basswood tend to have areas that are softer and others that are more dense. Thus the stain will not soak in evenly and this leads to a blotchy finish. The conditioner will even out the surface so that the stain will go on evenly.
 
I would apply it after sanding and then stain within a few minutes of applying it.
 
The softer the wood, the more you will see the need for it. Also, for open grained woods it will work well.
 
Russ

Hello Sherry,
 
Happy Anniversary.
Wishing you both many more years of happiness and beautiful memories.
 
Anja & Sjors

Hello Sherry,
 
Happy birthday
 
Enjoy and have a wonderful day.
 
Anja

From me also, thank you for the tips.
I too was wandering whether or not to glue the masts in place.
 
Take care,
 
Anja

Wayne, I wished I still had the smaller versions of those clamps. Mine are now a bit rusty, large and clumsy.
 
Steve, I have seen that also, but have not yet used them that way (way past planking on my current build).
 
Dank je well Anja, dat zijn clamps die ik ook heb maar die gebruik ik meer voor groter karwijtjes. Word er nog steeds jenever in Schiedam gemaakt?

I saw a useful tip (here of course) for holding down planking on some awkward areas. Using the fold-back clips pictured in your first post, the keyhole-shaped spreaders of one clip are "cannibalised" to make two "hybrid" clips as shown in the accompanying photo.
 
They are useful for holding a plank flat with the extra bit as the glue sets on the bulkhead whilst the main clip is holding onto the bulkhead (you'll have to picture this as I can't show you how it works in application, but I'm sure you get the idea).
 
Handy to know.
 
Steve

I agree: don't glue the masts unless you are absolutely sure every else has been taken care of (and that is much later during the build).
Drill the holes close to what you think is needed. Step the masts into the deep holes and use a 'template' to make sure they are somewhat lined up fore and aft, and then go forward. Fine tune later.

One thing to consider is whether or not to glue the mast in the hull. If you have a slightly oversized hole, you can fine tune the mast alignment as the standing rigging (stays and shrouds) are added, and they will hold the mast in place. On the old site, there was a thread discussing glueing masts, and I think it was an even split whether to glue or not. I you get it close, either way you should be able to fine tune it with the rigging.
 
Ken

It is better: Drill holes larger than necessary and use shims to align later.

I am working on my first build and don't have a lot of experience, but one thing I got right was not gluing the masts. They were easy to align with the rigging.
Bill

Hello Jay,
 
Besides the clamps you showed and my fingers (thank you Wayne) I use these clamps as well.
 

 
Take care,
 
Anja

I find these to be rather useful, but also danged difficult to control.
 

Andy,
The key is to use a very slow speed and to support the other end of the piece.  You'll need to clamp the drill down to something and then work on the other end.  Actually, about 1" in from the end of the piece.  You can put a block of wood (again clamped down) for that 1" or less bit at the end to spin in. 
 
Otherwise, grab some sandpaper, and rotate the wood in it by hand.  Slow going but you do other things, like sip a beverage, watch a movie, yell at the dog. 

Hello Andy,
 
Great! You made it home safely.
Now at least I can continue my silent following.
 
Happy modeling and take care,
 
Anja

Morning Garward,
 
I know that i have to ask more questions but I think I'm a real man…..
It's the as you have a new technical thing.
First try everything before you read the manual.
I know that I have to look forward but when you start building ,at this kit, you don't must start with page one of the drawings but page 17…...
They only tells you to glue part a to part B.
Why give you measurements?
See what you like and put it there.
You want to build this kit…...
 
When I get back to the San Ildefonso, I know I have a lot of questions for you!
So be prepared…...
 

Free watch on deck

After the ship was finally planked, I could attach the side pockets.
Here are a few detail shots that have arisen during the progress of construction.
 
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
 
 
 
After this work and 4 months later the pockets looks like this
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
and five years later like this
 
 
                                                      
 
 
 
 
Have fun
 

mylords and ladies,
enough with wood glue, sawing and sanding ....... Bone-ahead signals the lookout.
 
A close view of my workbench
 
   
To get to the processing of the bones feeling I have made the Upper deck.
So make a template from plane plywood (again wood * grmmmpf *) transferred the outline on it ;Sawing planks;
(but now - from bone) ..... the sawdust was indescribable.
I looked like a miller .. and also my workshop!
So first all systems on standby!

Extraction system built from old sucker rod and again from the beginning ......... after 2! Days.

Without vacuum cleaner you should consider the bone saws. I could continue to work clean workshop after 2 days.
To get an idea, just for the big deck were 15! Bone tubes processed. The usable portion of planks from a bone tube is fabulous 15 - 20% of the rest goes through the kerf and waste.
Was sawn and is still a "Mödl-saw" with ordinary 2.4 hp motor;

The bars on the copied template glued on top (waterproof glue).
Openings for gratings; mast guides; etc. release or produce naturally.
The deck is cut in half lengthwise amidships, - So the deck to fit seamlessly later-
The finished deck with blank template on the plywood gluing (glue)
Unless it was still quite good ... but the grind-smooth the surface-to be practiced.
Luckily I had enough material to do so.
The second lucky circumstance was the lively sympathy of my modeling buddies. (Augsburg and Munich modellers group)
The experienced there tips and suggestions have contributed to the success of the start-up phase.
The most important tool is the abrasive belt grinding of Boehler (now "Kaleas" minitool)
 
http://www.kaleas.de//kaleas.cgi?action=show&sessionID=17508566136639363317508566〈=de&page=shop-produktliste.html&cat=32&subcat=3230&catname=Schleifen,%20Hobeln&arcode=x).
The second most important "Smoothing" are glass; ... yes glass.
I use a very long time after the removal of wood! the final sanding with 600 grit sandpaper, glass blades.
The best glass blades obtained from slide mount. The glass in the frame can squeeze out quite easily. One can also use this laboratory glassware. Available in every medicine trade. The glass is held at an angle to the direction of pull and pulled under LIGHT pressure on the wood surface. (Practice, practice, practice, practice, and again ...... practice, practice). So that the wood surface is smooth as a babyskin
And this system works amazing on bone surface!
 
   
Therewith, the main question was answered: The famous smooth surface bone models.
 
The deck in the deck cabin has received a special medallion.

On the drawings in the AOTS book "Royal Yacht Caroline 1749" by Bellabarba is a highly complicated deck to see. However, the author did not mention that a carpet! is.
To lay a carpet there was too profane for the model. So I incorporated a circular medallion with eight-pointed star in the center of the deck.
The rest goes around the outside radiating off to the sides.
The rays and the angular elements within the circle were made on the circular saw.
For the rays I made a saw mask.
This template is ensured that the individual strips are cut at the same angle.
Thus, the interior elements are easier to see, the edges are blackened before the glue along with Plakafarbe. The curves were the first challenge in this model. (Seen after the inside., Ridiculously.)
That this deck is not created in an afternoon, is obvious
 
 

 
 
   
 


The deck in master cabin needed five times more time. The black elements are made of ebony.
Chic ...or?
 
 
 
The comment from my Admiralty:  "will be whole model so elaborate?"
Answer:  No, that's nothing compared to the rest of the yet to come.
Admiralty  "must be?"
Answer: You were such a model, so calm in the forepeak.
Admiralty: "Do you want a coffee, I think it takes longer"
yeah... yeah.... the very best of all wives has a humorous slant............

After the top surfaces were finished were also the side walls are covered and also the outside paneling was mounted above the mountain woods
 
      

Already at that time I was absolutely overwhelmed by the bone material.
One does not believe that fine tuning can be done with bones. However, any blunder is clear to see. With quasi Note arrow on the "malus operandi"  as the Finn would say ... or was it the Swede?
Since then helps only back to the workbench and the defective part inside the box of Memories - (at times when the hand was faster than the artisan mind).
 
 
 
Back to the topic.