Jump to content
New Banner Ad Sponsor - Epic Engravers - Great plank bending machine (also bends thin metal sheets) and unique engraved coins to label your model displays! ×

kgstakes

Members
  • Posts

    346
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I’ll be turning mainly wood for miniature furniture and ship parts but I will also be turning brass and aluminum for scale horse drawn vehicle parts and other project parts. A 4 jaw chuck independent would be for turning square stock (wood) for table legs etc. Dial indicator is a must I would think with a 4 jaw chuck independent. I know I could use and 4 jaw chuck (like 3 jaw) but I believe in the long run an independent chuck is the way to go if I decide to do more turning that needs to be real accurate measurements. I’ve looked online and see many mods but to do them I would also need a mill and I would like to get one but not right away. I see that taig has an attachment for the lathe to use as a mill (which I’ll probably get for very light work) but don’t really know how good that attachment would be for heavy milling like some of the mods I’ve seen people do. I know the basics of turning on a lathe, but some of the “tricks of the trade” sorta speak, I don’t know. Examples of the work I do on the lathe
  2. Any other mods that you can think of that I should or could do to my Taig lathe ? Other than buy more tooling and chucks and such 😆.
  3. I agree with you on leaving it alone for now. You can always go back and add whatever detail or distant "trees" to the background if need. Buildings will hide a lot of the "horizon" and the viewer will notice more of the buildings and other details than what is actually behind the buildings. This is my background with buildings in front. You don't see much of the "horizon" or for that matter the "sponge trees" peeking through the foreground trees and buildings. With a fall scene it is really hard to make it look convincing with painted trees in the background. I commend you on trying to create a "real scene" from the past. Hands down it is a challenge. What ever you do, if you like it, that's really that all that matters.
  4. Everything looks great!! Do have a question, are you planning on doing any detail on the painted hills or leave them as distant hills, mountains. A little sponge painting would make it look like there are some vegetation but also not sure if that would be prototypical for the time period you're shooting for. It looks great the way it is, I was just wondering. Put it this way, it's better than my background on my switching layout. Mine is just a hazy sky no detail. You did a nice job on the clouds and don't worry about steaks or any of that. More foreground details, buildings, etc. and people will be more interested in what is going on in front and not even really notice the backdrop. Keep it coming, the scenery in my mind looks great !!!
  5. I have some questions, Does anyone have a taig lathe? Did you use the motor mounting bracket or did you change it out for a large hinge? If you are using a hinge, would you think there is any undo stress to the motor or the lathe headstock by using a hinge for mounting the motor and belt tension? Something I've always done from the start is when I'm done with the lathe, I will remove the belt, that way I feel any motor weight on it will not stretch the belt. My not have to but I do. What other modifications have you done to your lathe? This goes for any mini lathe that would make the lathe perform better. Example: DRO or other type of accurate measuring. (One of the things I'm working on getting, is a 4 jaw independent chuck). Lastly, what have you made with your Taig lathe? Miniature parts for ships, parts for other projects, etc. Thank you for any advise on the above questions. Would really be interested in knowing about the hinge motor mount. I did this with mine and used a very heavy duty brass hinge ( 1/4" thick with about a 3/16 pin). Also, makes moving the belt to a different pulley easier.
  6. From the looks of the parts it’s going to be a lot of time at the spray booth as well. Looking forward to the progress as you build this one!!
  7. I see I could of used this cool tool when I was building the spindle chair I did a while back.
  8. Looks like it's coming along really well. Your turnout controls, their not tortoise switch machines, so what brand are they? Are they servos? Seen them but never used them. I use Caboose Industries manual switch stand for my switching layout. Backdrop looks great too. Bet you can't wait to get trains running 🙂. Keep up the great work and look forward to more!!
  9. Doctors phaeton piano box buggy this is what you see most of the time people driving with there horses today. Amish buggy this is what you see the Amish driving in the USA most of the time.
  10. Thought I would share a couple things I’ve made on my taig lathe. Little things.
  11. The term "doctor's buggy" was first applied to a type of doctor's phaeton . A phaeton is a lightweight, four-wheeled carriage, often designed to be owner-driven. Here's how the name came about: Distinctive Top: The term "doctor's buggy" specifically referred to a doctor's phaeton that featured a unique top, designed by a physician named Dr. Yandell in Louisville, Kentucky.
  12. Yeah that’s what I was asking don’t know why I said 3D. Anyway thank you for clarifying that for me.
×
×
  • Create New...