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kgstakes

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  1. I have a question (which is happening to me more than not). I have found that every or most hobby tool storage design is for in back of the work area. At least for me, which I'm trying to fix, is that every tool that I use on a regular basis seems to be behind the model that I am working on. Now when I'm building a HO scale structure or a railroad car, the tools are right there ready to use. Yeah, I reach over the model but, they are small and never really got in the way. I'm just wondering, do you all have the same problem with reach over, around, under, etc. your model to get to a tool or is it just me? Yeah, I can put them in my drawers in my model bench (aka craftsman workbench) which I've done for years and dig through to get the right tool (yes, I do have some organization to the drawers but seems I have more pliers, tweezers, screwdrivers, etc. etc. you know how that is), and I'm trying to design, buy or both so that most of my often used tools are right there handy. After seeing the video I posted of the guy building a small (briefcase type) tool storage. I started thinking, why not design something similar but instead of having it open like a briefcase (flat), why not have it open the same way but have it vertical. See my design (not finished yet but you get the concept. Anyway, with all the humbo jumbo said ............... are you having the same problem I am with reaching tools, supplies, etc. behind your project?
  2. Don't know if anyone would be interested in this video but I thought it was a cool idea. Basically hobby on the go sorta speak. Take a look, it's an interesting concept.
  3. Oh any what I been doing with the cross slide is when I would back away from the cut note where it was and then come back to it then increase cut. Also if just turning down to a smaller diameter. I would just take the backlash out and the increase but 5-10 thousands and make another cut. You can take a pretty healthy cut with it but I prefer to take lighter cuts just seems to perform better. It’s a fun machine to run and figure out what I can do with it (and not). I like it. Glad I bought it.
  4. I agree cross slide has more play than I would like. To measure the longitudinal length. When turning towards the headstock there is a bar that you can adjust so you have a stop. Carriage will come up against it and stop. Even when power feeding, it will stop. Then back out and take another cut. That’s what I was doing when I was practicing how small a turning I could do. See picture.
  5. I don't have a way to measure the backlash so here is a video of the cross slide and the longitudinal rack-and-pinion. Hope this answers your question. Video (20).mov
  6. The taig lathe the way it operates with wheels in front is what I’m accustomed to with my bigger lathe. It’s true probably can’t cut threads without modification but I’ll be turning mostly wood and sometimes metal with the lathe. Threads if needed I can cut a different way with dies and taps. Every tool will have advantages and disadvantages, it just comes down to what you like with the machine and what you want to do with it. Best thing I can tell anyone looking for a tool, look at all of them study them see what the advantages and disadvantages are and pick the best one for your needs. Don’t go off of what other people say, they may have a strong opinion about one tool that may or may not be right for you. It all comes down to what you’re going to do with that tool and will it do the job you want it to do. That’s what matters most.
  7. Sorry for not getting back to you sooner, Yes it was a package deal. I bought 1017#2 Starter Set #2 (see Taig website) then I added most of the accessories they offer. I chose Taig basically for main reason, all the controls (wheels) were in "front and center", which is what I'm used to. Didn't like the hand wheel at the end of the bed like Sherline lathes. Sure I could of gotten use to it. Another reason was of course price. I bought the lathe and the "starter set" plus some other accessories for about the same price as a Sherline lathe base price would cost. I'm having fun with this lathe finding out just what it will and will not do (not much it can't do) and I find it is a very enjoyable machine to work with. Hope this answers most of your questions and as for the 'extras' I bought the picture below shows most if not all I have for the Taig lathe.
  8. The work you do is amazing!! I’ve done some crazy modeling before but I’m not sure I would have the patience ( or eye sight🤪) to do all the rigging you’ve done. Great job!!!
  9. After looking at all your pictures, it makes me want to get back in the shop and continue my build of this model. Great job !! If mine comes out half and good as yours, I will be happy. I'm thinking I will leave off the walls when I do all the outside "bracing" so that the interior is visible. I do have all those walls made up but will put them to the side so people know that they can be "installed" on the model. Which in reality, they can not unless some of the bracing can be removed. All in all, very nice looking model. You did a great job!!!
  10. TK1 yeah that’s basically what I wanted was a place to store a project ( protect it) and have some tools at hand. Thank you for your input greatly appreciated.
  11. Doing some more practicing on the taig lathe this afternoon/evening. I’ll be turning mostly wood on my lathe and I was seeing just how small I could go and this is where I stopped. That’s good enough for anything I want to do with this lathe. I’m sure I could go more with metal but with wood I thought this was pretty darn good. Love this lathe!! Here’s a picture of how small I got.
  12. Just been messing with my taig lathe today getting a feel for how small I can turn things. Here’s a couple examples of what I’ve been doing. Practice practice, there’s a stool and a chair that has lots of turning to be done (1/12th scale) so before I tackle them I’m practicing turning on the lathe.
  13. I've been doing some designing on a "portable" "workstation", something that can be taken off the wall (using french cleats to fasten to wall), and be either stored in a closet or taken to my woodshop where my hobby room is. Some place to build a model but still be in the house at night (more or less with family). But have all or most of my tools, paints, brushes, knives, etc. and still be able to close it up (with model inside) and place some where out of the way if need. I'll probably build it out of 1/2" cabinet grade plywood or maybe 3/4" with an oak veneer. Stain and finish so it will look like a wall cabinet but like I said before with a french cleat, you can take it down really easy if needed. Here are some drawings. Sorry the freebie program won't let me share the drawings (can save but not share) so I took pictures of them on my phone. Sorry if they’re bad.
  14. Welcome you will find lots of talented people on this forum that is more than happy to help you out in any way they can.
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