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kgstakes

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Everything posted by kgstakes

  1. kgstakes
    Actually I've built full size buckboards and they are very comfortable to ride in. The ones I've built have no springs between the body (floor) and the axles, only under the seat. This is my personal buckboard. I made my own brackets (see pic) that attached the seat spring to the seat and to the floor. Made a very comfortable ride, both for the horse and driver. I used 1/2" square stock for the curved braces for the dash which was heated in my forge and then twisted and then ends hammered flat and punched holes for bolts.
  2. kgstakes
    From what I've read about stagecoaches, they were built to travel long distances and the throughbraces for the suspension was to help the horses (easier on the horses) than on the passengers. Yes, you did get bounced around in them, even today if you ride in a stagecoach at any speed it's a rough ride for the passengers. The throughbraces (leather suspension) was to give the horses a little "give" when they were pulling the load. Hard to explain the way it works but hopefully you understand what I'm trying to say about the suspension of the coach. The body basically "rocked" back and forth and it was easier on the horses. Kurt
  3. kgstakes
    Little more progress today. Been slow going but I'm also remodeling/finishing the basement at the same time so that takes priority over modeling. Pictures show test fitting everything before I start on the "cabin" area (painting, windows, doors, etc. Benches still need some touch up and finial coat of clear finish. Been a pretty straight forward build - wish the picture directions were in English but with the text directions, I can follow and go by the pictures.
  4. kgstakes
    Not sure whether this is the right category to ask this but do any of you done a diorama where the ship is modeled in resin or some other “water”. Have you ever modeled a ship sinking or under attack maybe like a torpedo in the water just about ready to hit the ship or has and then you’ve done other effects to mimic a direct hit? I’ve seen some one do this and didn’t know if anyone here has done anything like that. Found this on the web for an example of what I’m talking about.
  5. kgstakes
    For being a small scale ship I’m surprised at the detail it has. Great build and love the paint work you’ve done. i haven’t built any war ships and i always admire the people that do and can do such an excellent job at painting them. Nicely done!!
  6. kgstakes
    Some work was done yesterday not much just enough to get me feet wet. the seats are just sitting there not attached yet.
  7. kgstakes
    OOPS my bad. Thank you for the correction 🙂
  8. kgstakes
    Starting a new build this afternoon. It’ll be a slow build since I have another winter project going as well (finishing basement) so this one might take awhile, but will be enjoyable to build. i plan on powering it so I can have it running around the room (at the ceiling) in the hobby workshop.
  9. kgstakes
    Finished 1/12th scale paneled cradle. Red Oak rift cut and stained and finished.
  10. kgstakes
    Assembled ready to for 3-4 coats of clear finish.
  11. kgstakes
    Progress on the cradle build. Dadoes and tenons working out good, few more panels and then the rockers on the bottom and it’ll be ready for finish work.
  12. kgstakes
    Here is my model workshop it’s the office of my workshop. I don’t use it as an office anymore so I turned it into my model workshop. the video is of my miniature workshop but it has changed a little bit since this was taken. IMG_3122.mov
  13. kgstakes
    Now before you all congratulate me this cradle is 1/12 th scale. Oh heck no too late in life for that!!🤣🤣🤣 Anyway, milled up all the rough stock for this little cradle. Turned the finials this morning and next is cutting all the parts out of the stock I made up and do all the mortise and tenons then make the panels and assemble. i milled up some rift cut red oak so there should be lots of nice grain pattern in this project.
  14. kgstakes
    Not to worry that stagecoach that is in the display case (picture) took me 10 years to complete. Work on it put it away work on it put it away. i think you have time 🤣🤣
  15. kgstakes
    I just finished the buckboard by model trailways. It's an easy kit and something different from scratch building a wagon. The kit went together good, some areas could be better and I wish they would of included "real nuts, bolts, washers" instead of just cast bolts and fake square nuts, both out of scale. I used brass nuts, bolts, washers, as I would if scratch building a wagon. Other than that, the kit is a good kit. Enjoy the pictures.
  16. kgstakes
    You did a very nice job at sanding out all the burned spots. I have a heck of a time with that. Some parts I can get really well and there are other areas that just seem to be really burned in. But you're doing a heck of a job on that longboat. Great job !!!
  17. kgstakes
    Nice kit! And thank you regarding paint recipes. i use masters touch artist paints and have had good results when painting cars and trucks 1900-1930’s. Just love those style of automoblies. sometimes I’ll use hobby paints but for the money and ease of use with both brush and airbrush I find the artist colors do quite well for me anyway. Again thanks for info on the “recipes”. I’ll look them up and see what I can do too.
  18. kgstakes
    Finished the Chesapeake 17 Kayak this morning. i don’t know if anyone else has built this but i had a hard time with the buckles and actually gave up and used some buckles I had made for me for my 1/8 th scale stagecoach. Makes it look a little like a Santa Clause Kayak but hey I have buckles on the straps for the hatches.🤣🤣 Here are some pictures of the finished model.
  19. kgstakes
    Sorry everyone I've been busy building and not taking photos of what I've done. I have painted the hull and finish the "top" part and now gluing it all together. Three glue ups (according to the directions) and I have the last part (side) glued up now. Also, have the paddle finished. Won't be long now and it will be completed. A few touch ups after it's all done but the build has been going together quite well.
  20. kgstakes
    I just came across your build, I WILL be watching your progress!! I had to go to Occre website to see the model, holy cow !! this thing is huge!! I also seen that they are limited edition, and price ( too steep for me). So I'll be building this one through your eyes and hands. You do great work and this one will be a masterpiece when completed in my eyes.
  21. kgstakes
    Little further along this afternoon. Tomorrow carve the end blocks and attach them and then see how much time I have maybe start the top.
  22. kgstakes
    Well I had a little time today so I thought I would start on my next project. Not too far along but it’s a start.
  23. kgstakes
    I’ll be turning mainly wood for miniature furniture and ship parts but I will also be turning brass and aluminum for scale horse drawn vehicle parts and other project parts. A 4 jaw chuck independent would be for turning square stock (wood) for table legs etc. Dial indicator is a must I would think with a 4 jaw chuck independent. I know I could use and 4 jaw chuck (like 3 jaw) but I believe in the long run an independent chuck is the way to go if I decide to do more turning that needs to be real accurate measurements. I’ve looked online and see many mods but to do them I would also need a mill and I would like to get one but not right away. I see that taig has an attachment for the lathe to use as a mill (which I’ll probably get for very light work) but don’t really know how good that attachment would be for heavy milling like some of the mods I’ve seen people do. I know the basics of turning on a lathe, but some of the “tricks of the trade” sorta speak, I don’t know. Examples of the work I do on the lathe
  24. kgstakes
    Any other mods that you can think of that I should or could do to my Taig lathe ? Other than buy more tooling and chucks and such 😆.
  25. kgstakes
    I agree with you on leaving it alone for now. You can always go back and add whatever detail or distant "trees" to the background if need. Buildings will hide a lot of the "horizon" and the viewer will notice more of the buildings and other details than what is actually behind the buildings. This is my background with buildings in front. You don't see much of the "horizon" or for that matter the "sponge trees" peeking through the foreground trees and buildings. With a fall scene it is really hard to make it look convincing with painted trees in the background. I commend you on trying to create a "real scene" from the past. Hands down it is a challenge. What ever you do, if you like it, that's really that all that matters.

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