madtatt

Continue with the profiles. It’s slowly going faster now. But there are still a lot. Now, however, I also have to take add-on parts into account, such as roll keels and propulsion. They will only be attached to the fuselage after all the profiles have been done so that I can sand them properly beforehand.

Fantastic solution Jeff. 👍 I'm also thinking about this little detail as I'm currently studying this picture.

Continue with the seams for the armor plates. This time on the underwater ship. It takes a bit of effort and nerves. They have to be attached very precisely and parallel. But it seems to work: However, I have to move the torpedo tube opening a little at the stern, so I first closed it with styrene.

Ok, let’s fill the holes that I don’t need due to the etched parts sets. Then check with a white primer to make sure everything is sanded smoothly. Of course the fuselage seams were also checked. Then we come to my beloved Styren profiles. I use this to imitate the seams of the armor plates. At that time, riveting was still taking place, not welding. However, you can hardly see the rivets under the paint on the original. So that’s enough for me. The storage areas for the anchors were sanded smooth, as Pontos also fills everything here with brass. Now for a special feast for the eyes. The dinghies from New Zealand have arrived. Thank you again for the Tip, Jeff. Absolute detail madness. I’m blown away. 🤩

And so I continued on the port side and completed the areas around the casemates. Consequently, all structures of this type on the fuselage are now being replaced by styrene profiles. As can be seen above. Otherwise it would no longer look consistent. But that’s over for now, I still have to fill and sand the holes first.

So, I have created the removed surface structure with my styrene profiles. It's a little bit wider than the original line, but if it's painted afterwards it should fit.

Exactly LED. This is very helpful, especially at the beginning when you are modeling the surface structure of the hull. I remove some of the foam in the middle so that the ship sits neatly inside. Prevents one or two scratches, especially at the beginning.

Thank you very much for the advance praise, Yves. Continue working on the hull, which will probably take quite some time. Because after I filled the recesses with styrene profiles, I noticed significant sinkholes that unfortunately had to be thickly filled. On the right side, I think you can still clearly see the small dent of the sink under the filler. Since I had to do a lot of filing and sanding here, I could no longer take the surface structure of the hull into account and removed it. Which isn’t a big deal since I’ll be making them again with styrene. After the first sanding process, the worked areas were primed as a check and I am quite happy with the result. To the next round…

Lets start. First the basics, with glue the fuselage together. Next, drilled holes for the stand nuts. Neatly glued in with two components resin. Just like the internal structures to stiffen the torso. This time I treated myself to the elegant stands from Pontos. Look really great. Then the first lower deck comes into the hull. Now it is really very stable. Next, the holes for the crampons. Nice straight through the drilling templates from Pontos. And the usual drilling out of the portholes. After researching the few images available, I noticed that the porthole that sits on the model below the anchor hawse did not exist. Herby63 discovered this too. This was then closed with a round styrene profile. Filled and sanded. Another mistake that needs to be corrected. Merit made recesses in the fuselage to accommodate the etched piece gunports from the model in the correct location. Since I’m using the pontos set here and the hinges of the gunport on the original ship were riveted onto the hull from the outside, I close them with styrene. I’ll be busy with that for a while.

Thank you for the great comments. That makes me very proud. 😊

Ahoi, Freunde der Klebezunft. Zurück zu meinen Wurzeln, dem Bau von Modellschiffen. Es war ein schöner Ausflug in das Star-Wars-Universum und ich hatte viel Spaß. Aber jetzt freue ich mich auf ein echtes Schiff, das ich schon lange in der Pipeline habe. Das Schlachtschiff Mikasa aus der Zeit vor dem Dreadnought der Kaiserlich Japanischen Marine (IJN). Ich weiß, für die meisten nichts Neues. Es gibt so viele Bauberichte über dieses Boot und dennoch bleibt es für mich ein Muss. Und das aus zwei Gründen. Da ist zunächst die Form des Rumpfes. Wirklich archaisch. Erinnert mich aufgrund des angedeuteten Widders an eine griechische Triere. Mir gefällt es unglaublich gut. Und an Deck ist auf diesem Schiff alles so anders als zum Beispiel auf meiner Bismarck. Zweitens habe ich für dieses Modell nicht nur ein Pontos Detail Up Set. Nein, als Bonus gibt es auch das MK1 Deluxe Paket von KA Models. Bei Pontos fehlen einige Details. Wahrscheinlich nicht gründlich genug recherchiert, oder was?! Aber dazu später mehr. Nun ja, schon in der ersten Kabine wird es eine ätzende Orgie geben. Was für ein Spaß. Dann möchte ich Ihnen das verfügbare Material für dieses Projekt vorstellen. Zunächst einmal das Modell. Dies ist von einer Reihe von Herstellern wie I Love Kit, Wave Corporation oder HobbyBoss erhältlich. Aber alles ist definitiv Trumpeter, was man sofort sieht, wenn man die Box öffnet. Schließlich kommt mein Mikasa von Merit International. Es ist erstaunlich, unter wie vielen Namen dieses Modell verkauft wird. Auf dem Bild ist die Box der Firma I Love Kit zu sehen, da ich meine nicht mehr habe. Natürlich gibt es auch mein liebstes Ätzteileset von Pontos. Und jetzt übertreibe ich, ich weiß, aber dieses Modell wird auch mit dem MK1 Deluxe-Paket von Ka Models geliefert. Was mich dazu motiviert hat, erkläre ich später in meinem Baubericht. Leider gibt es von Veteran Models zu diesem Modell nicht viel, aber immerhin das: Diesmal stammen die Figuren von der Firma ION, die ich passenderweise als Preis für meine Bismarck gewonnen habe. Für mich ist es immer noch unverständlich, dass die Hersteller, egal ob Modellbau oder teure Nachrüstprodukte, Ankerketten mit Doppelsteggliedern anbieten. Also machten sie sich Sorgen. Kommen wir zu einem weiteren exquisiten Accessoire, das ich erst durch den erstklassigen Baubericht von Jeff59 entdeckt habe. Diese fantastischen Schlauchboote von Micro Master aus Neuseeland. Ein kleiner Traum. Das ist also die erste Zutatenliste für mein neues Projekt. Wobei ich nicht ausschließen kann oder will, dass das ein oder andere Teilchen dabei sein könnte. Auf die nächsten zwei Jahre voller Spaß.

And now the final photos of my falcon. Don’t be surprised by the bolder colors, as this time I used my new cell phone, which has an excellent Leica camera. So that’s it, a good year of fun in the Star Wars universe. Now I’m looking forward to my next project with a real ship. Of course again in this theater.

Good morning dear model building friends. Last night the last clear coat was applied after a year and two months. It’s done, my falcon can finally take off. The plate had to be placed on its back one last time to be able to do the details at the top. But this time carefully supported on a foam. Then off to the airbrush cabin. So as far as this huge structure goes. All parts finished painted. And one last picture of the finished record without her falcon. So, that concludes my construction report. I’ll take some decent pictures of the model this weekend and then present them to you. It was a great pleasure for me to embark on this journey with you into a galaxy far, far away.

What a fantastic work. 🤩 I'll take a lot from your build report when I start my Mikasa.

Better??? 😅

Ahoy dear model building community. I feel very honored by this comment. The dress rehearsal took place today. The falcon was screwed onto its threaded rod one last time for testing. I did some light chipping and fading on the base plate and am now checking to see if anything is missing anywhere. Take a look at the bird. The front laser looks in exactly the right direction for me. The height and angle of the falcon looks good. Of course, it is unnecessary to paint any further details in the middle. There is still a little aging missing on the lower plate, front edge. Sides look good too. And the upper laser also shoots in the general direction of the falcon. Also a few little things that I will improve. I expect my model to be completed next weekend.

Many thanks. The back has two filters and very slight chipping. I don’t even know if I still do dirt running. But now the last segments have been added to the front. The upper laser… And the one on the big truncated pyramid. The cover for the falcon holder is also designed. All parts are now installed. And again in total.

And again a small update is inserted. I have installed the last big panel and the end is near… 🥳 First the locking mechanism for the maintenance hatch. It now closes tightly with two small, strong magnets. Preshading of the upper armor plates. Base coat on it. And here are the last two armor plates. Cut, cleaned and glued. At the top, the small squares have already been given their lighter base color to increase the contrast.

Thanks for your enthusiasm, Mike. You won't have to wait too long for the final result. Then I want to show you the results from this weekend. The back wall panels were still missing. Here I made it easy for myself with the extremely large units. You can hardly see any of it afterwards anyway. All the little squares are still missing. And the view from the front. The fan blades are mounted just above the large structures on the bottom. I think that rounds off the view of the top plate well. And now also the sofa. 😉

I’m making good progress.

Another little update The steelwork supports are primed, glued and the left side is finished. Now the armor plates in between are missing. But it’s the weekend and I hope to have this section finished by Sunday.

Today was construction day again. Not much will happen on the back wall of the diorama, as you can only see a little of it. The surface will probably mainly be decorated with large armor plates. Only on the sloping top plate should a little structure round the whole thing off. That’s why I got a few delicate steelwork girders from the railway model making sector, which are supposed to end in a bracket I printed. The first prototype. I will then distribute four or five units of these over the area and also lay armor plates in between.

Do you know that?! The pages are finished…pffff…whatever. 🤪 When I looked at the Dio from behind, something was missing. It still needed a little more substance. And with this technical surface, what’s better than pipes? That’s right, more plumbing. So I took out the hot air dryer again and quickly made some. I put another one in front of it and now it’s more consistent on the sides in my opinion. Now just need to be aged.

Happy New Year and it can go on. I’ve made a lot of progress with the pages. First I cut the armor plates with which I will cover the surfaces. Fits. By the way, the styrene plate with the X is not a plate but the gauge with which I always mark the same recesses. A few more squares spread out. I attached the top plate with a little overlap, which conceals the gap nicely. And in the front, of course. Base color on it Here’s the overhang again. This should ensure that the maintenance flap is well covered. I will probably create a locking device using a magnet. Left side finished. And the right one.

WOW. What delicate work. That looks fantastic. 👍