westwood
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HMS Portland 1770 by westwood - Portland Scale Ship Co. - 1:48 - 50 gun 4th rate
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Another small update: I set the lower counter aside for now, but I shaped the front of the frieze panel similarly. I also did a dry fit of the bottom of the balcony to determine the placement of the panels. It was good not to have glued it yet because the overlapping parts could easily break off, and fairing the hull was also easier. After countless tests of placing these panels and the planking strips—which unfortunately did not make it into the photo, I managed to apply the first coat of Tamiya surface primer. So I'm getting closer to planking
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HMS Tiger 1747 by Siggi52 - 1:48 - 60 gun ship from NMM plans
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HMS Winchelsea 1764 by John Murray - 1:48
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HMS Winchelsea 1764 by shauer - 1:48
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HMS Winchelsea 1764 by shauer - 1:48
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westwood reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Winchelsea 1764 by shauer - 1:48
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Danish cannons for 3D printing
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Chucks Prototype Double Capstan (3D print and laser cutting group)
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westwood reacted to a post in a topic:
Chucks Prototype Double Capstan (3D print and laser cutting group)
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westwood reacted to a post in a topic:
Chucks Prototype Double Capstan (3D print and laser cutting group)
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westwood reacted to a post in a topic:
Chucks Prototype Double Capstan (3D print and laser cutting group)
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Thanks, guys. You're right, Ben, the modified apron with added material and bevel marks has improved it a lot and I think JJ did the same thing with dead wood. Before gluing on the side frieze panels I decided to shape the lower counter first. Although it could have been attached dry, I ended up soaking it and letting it dry overnight. Now that it holds its shape, I will make some adjustments to the edges. I also decided to add some fillers to the bow for better control of the hull fairing in this area.
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Thanks, guys. Today, I just continued sanding the stern. The post is only temporary. I might glue it later when it's time for the lower counter. I also need to finish the stern chaser ports. And to conclude the first chapter, I still need to add fairing caps. And finally then, I can move on to fairing the hull of the beast.
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Thanks for the likes and comments, guys. Today, I glued the last short cant frame and then moved on to the fairing. The bow or cant frames and hawse pieces are about 80 percent sanded. Then I moved to the stern. After partial fairing, I removed the temporary inner and outer posts and continued sanding the wing transoms. This is a much more difficult part than the hawse pieces. Tomorrow I have to add some fillings and try to sand it down.
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That piece was maybe 3 mm thick but now that I've sanded it down a bit, it's about 2.5 mm wide at frame 8a and gets even thinner towards the front. Wait a bit with the modification, JJ, while I do some more sanding. Then I'll check it, take a photo, and write to you. I'll also send a photo of how much I've adjusted the front step for frame 1a. Now, today's progress. I glued the last one, even though it's actually the cant frame no 1. And then the hawse pieces or bow timbers, which name is correct, or both? During assembly I used 0.8 mm foil and some scrap to support and define the same distance between them. And of course, I couldn't wait because I was curious to see how it looked, so I immediately started sanding. Now, however, the last half frame and the same thing awaits on the starboard side.
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You're right, JJ, on the starboard side I used the whole bottom apron. And I made a less visible adjustment - widening the bottom step for the first four frames. I took a piece from the scrap board from which the apron was cut so that the color and grain direction would match, and glued it with transparent glue so that it is not even visible. Maybe it will be sanded down during the final fairing anyway, but just in case.
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Hi guys, I finally started working on the forward frames. I started with the port side first. Now, all that's left is to glue the hawse pieces, but that can wait until the end. Today, I started working on the starboard side. First, I had to prepare the apron. Since the forward frames slope gradually forward, they require angles and tapering. The apron must be adapted to this, which is very important. I think the photos show what I mean. The apron is now glued on, and the first frames are ready to be glued on.
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