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westwood

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  1. The cannons look fantastic—you did a great job Ron!
  2. Another small step forward! Only the aftmost frames remain, and they require the most attention to ensure the wing transoms fit properly.
  3. That was at the beginning, when I installed the lower frame holders. Some of the bulkheads were not 100% perpendicular to the keel, so I had to adjust the grooves in the holders. The basic construction required a slightly different procedure than usual for kits where the bulkheads are gradually glued to the keel. Specifically, all of the bulkheads were placed on the bulkhead former without being glued. Then, longitudinal stiffeners are added to keep all bulkheads straight. And only when everything is perfectly aligned are the joints sealed with glue. However, the instructions are well written, and anyone who starts building will know what I mean. But you definitely need to measure three times and then once more before gluing
  4. It looks perfect, Ben! Is the red color Caldercraft Red Ochre? I'm looking forward to seeing how it will look planking with boxwood and ebony.
  5. After taking a short vacation and devoting myself to other activities, I finally started building the aft frames on the starboard side. But first, I partially sanded down the deadwood and frames on the port side to ensure that I could use the same assembly procedure on the starboard side.
  6. After a short break, I made progress. I finished all the perpendicular frames on the starboard side. Now I'm preparing for the aft frames.
  7. it looks very good JJ and the planking templates seem to work very accurately
  8. Hey guys My weekend was all about building deadwood and the aft cant frames. There was lots of sanding, testing, sanding, testing... I just hope everything will be okay after the final fairing. And I hope the wing transoms finally fall into place properly, too. But that will happen after I've framed the starboard side.
  9. Hi guys, I've had a bottle of Caldercraft red ochre at home for about six years. I'm not sure if it was made with a different recipe back then or if my batch is spoiled. Mine is more more brown and not at all like the red ochre that some of you use on this forum. That's why I didn't use it when building Winchelsea. I tried different shades of Vallejo model paints, but I didn't like any of them. Ultimately, I also bought the Vallejo Cadmium Red Deep artist acrylic paint in a tube. I liked the color, but the consistency was a downside for me. It was too thick to use straight from the tube. Once thinned, it lost its opacity, and many coats were needed. So Now that I'm building Portland, I'm looking for a darker red again. I guess I'll stick with artist paints, but I want a more fluid consistency. I'm impressed with the Golden Fluid Acrylics for hand painting that Mark used for his Bellona I like this Golden https://goldenartistcolors.com/products/fluid-acrylic-color-red-oxide and possibly this one from Vallejo https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/fine-arts/fluid-acrylic-en/mars-red-68306/ I would like to buy them and try them out. What do you think of them?
  10. Looks very good JJ, looking forward to the second chapter when you make the wales and planking the gunports. The planking guides will be a great help
  11. Hi, guys Thanks for the comments and likes! After a short break, I finished installing all the perpendicular frames on the port side today. It went quite easily and quickly since I had already cleaned them of char beforehand. I was just fine-tuning little things, such as the area that sits on the keel is flat and free of char, because even glue on char doesn't hold. And here is the result. Now I'm off to the heavier part to prepare the deadwood and the aft cant frames.
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