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westwood

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Everything posted by westwood

  1. Hey, guys! Today is the day I can finally say that the first chapter is done. Thanks for watching, commenting, and liking!
  2. Hi Frank, I have a JLC saw like the one in the picture. JLC-Precision-Resin-Saw And your Winnie looks fantastic.
  3. Thanks, guys. Today, I just continued sanding the stern. The post is only temporary. I might glue it later when it's time for the lower counter. I also need to finish the stern chaser ports. And to conclude the first chapter, I still need to add fairing caps. And finally then, I can move on to fairing the hull of the beast.
  4. Thanks for the likes and comments, guys. Today, I glued the last short cant frame and then moved on to the fairing. The bow or cant frames and hawse pieces are about 80 percent sanded. Then I moved to the stern. After partial fairing, I removed the temporary inner and outer posts and continued sanding the wing transoms. This is a much more difficult part than the hawse pieces. Tomorrow I have to add some fillings and try to sand it down.
  5. That piece was maybe 3 mm thick but now that I've sanded it down a bit, it's about 2.5 mm wide at frame 8a and gets even thinner towards the front. Wait a bit with the modification, JJ, while I do some more sanding. Then I'll check it, take a photo, and write to you. I'll also send a photo of how much I've adjusted the front step for frame 1a. Now, today's progress. I glued the last one, even though it's actually the cant frame no 1. And then the hawse pieces or bow timbers, which name is correct, or both? During assembly I used 0.8 mm foil and some scrap to support and define the same distance between them. And of course, I couldn't wait because I was curious to see how it looked, so I immediately started sanding. Now, however, the last half frame and the same thing awaits on the starboard side.
  6. You're right, JJ, on the starboard side I used the whole bottom apron. And I made a less visible adjustment - widening the bottom step for the first four frames. I took a piece from the scrap board from which the apron was cut so that the color and grain direction would match, and glued it with transparent glue so that it is not even visible. Maybe it will be sanded down during the final fairing anyway, but just in case.
  7. Today was all about installing the forward frames, partially sanded Now, only one full frame and one short frame are left. And finally, the hawse pieces.
  8. Hi guys, I finally started working on the forward frames. I started with the port side first. Now, all that's left is to glue the hawse pieces, but that can wait until the end. Today, I started working on the starboard side. First, I had to prepare the apron. Since the forward frames slope gradually forward, they require angles and tapering. The apron must be adapted to this, which is very important. I think the photos show what I mean. The apron is now glued on, and the first frames are ready to be glued on.
  9. I report that the wing transoms are finally glued in place, and now there's a lot of sanding to do.
  10. Hi guys, I'm sorry I'm not posting more updates, but there's no end to the housework before winter. But here's a small preview of what I've done so far. I took a slightly different approach and did the vertical filler first. The inner and outer posts is glued together, but don't yet glued to the bulkhead former. Then, I laminated the wing transom. Now, I'm fine-tuning the other transoms...
  11. It looks great! I'm already looking forward to what you'll show us in the third chapter.
  12. The cannons look fantastic—you did a great job Ron!
  13. Another small step forward! Only the aftmost frames remain, and they require the most attention to ensure the wing transoms fit properly.
  14. That was at the beginning, when I installed the lower frame holders. Some of the bulkheads were not 100% perpendicular to the keel, so I had to adjust the grooves in the holders. The basic construction required a slightly different procedure than usual for kits where the bulkheads are gradually glued to the keel. Specifically, all of the bulkheads were placed on the bulkhead former without being glued. Then, longitudinal stiffeners are added to keep all bulkheads straight. And only when everything is perfectly aligned are the joints sealed with glue. However, the instructions are well written, and anyone who starts building will know what I mean. But you definitely need to measure three times and then once more before gluing
  15. It looks perfect, Ben! Is the red color Caldercraft Red Ochre? I'm looking forward to seeing how it will look planking with boxwood and ebony.
  16. After taking a short vacation and devoting myself to other activities, I finally started building the aft frames on the starboard side. But first, I partially sanded down the deadwood and frames on the port side to ensure that I could use the same assembly procedure on the starboard side.
  17. After a short break, I made progress. I finished all the perpendicular frames on the starboard side. Now I'm preparing for the aft frames.
  18. it looks very good JJ and the planking templates seem to work very accurately
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