westwood
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Everything posted by westwood
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wow that's perfect Mike ! A ton of assembly, tuning and reassembly is well worth the effort.
- 607 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Now I'm experimenting with blue, I have the friezes printed on a laser printer. I just can't decide what blue to use as a base for the gallery columns and later for the transom because there is a bit of a difference in the friezes for the hull than for the friezes for the top and bottom counters and transom. I am testing Vallejo model color. I like this mix the best. 6 drops of Prussian blue, 5 drops of flat yellow and 4 drops of white. I can't get a good photo of it so I took a scan where the color presentation is better. What do you think? Or Isn't there a good graphic designer who can adjust the colors of the friezes ?
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So It's been a year since I started posting my build log. Thanks for the kind comments and likes through the whole year guys. I hope my motivation to build won't leave me 🙂 Over the holidays I made a little progress... I made the scraper from a razor knife and the fancy mouldings are scraped with it freehand. No other special tool. But as I wrote I used pear wood. Because in cherry the scraper tended to float and the thickness wasn't consistent either.
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Hi Frank, your planking prep looks really good. Still, I'll add Chuck's advice: (52 post on of my thread) I still had to do some fine sanding at some bulkheads when planking. So fingers crossed and I wish you all the best in this new year.
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I continue to work on the Qgallery. Before gluing the shell, I glued the upper part to better check that all three frames are parallel. Now I'm trying to make fancy moldings. In a previous post I showed the first test and I was satisfied with how it went. But now I made a different profile of the scraper and I can't make fancy mouldings from cherry at all anymore. I tried it with three different kinds of cherry wood and the result was the same. But I tried pear and the result is much better. So I'll probably go this way for fancy mouldings. You can easily identify it in the photos.
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Well done Frank, fingers crossed for planking, another fun weeks ahead of you. And I wish you and all builders a Blessed and peaceful Christmas.
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Thank you Chuck, Yes, the frieze is just a test, the printer was without paint. So I have already done the final ones but there's still a lot of work to do before they're applied.
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Thanks for the likes guys, I finally decided to move the quarter gallery stool to run parallel to the planking. I'm much happier with the result now. Using the waste pieces I tried the top part as well. I'm hoping it will be ok. And finally I tried making a scraper for the fancy moldings...
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Congratulations Greg, this is truly a work of art. I'm flipping through your and David's book right now but please I want to see more photos in the gallery.
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Hi guys, I added black strake and then I've started the third chapter and I think I've found my biggest problem. Angle of the qgalleries doesn't fit me about as well as it should. I don't know if it's the view angle or the angle of my planking, or I've misplaced the stern frames... I'm frustrated about it but If I want laser cut windows to fit I guess I'll have to live with it.
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Wow Chuck you're showing great engineering again. My Winnie still has a long voyage ahead. And I already know what I want to come next.
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I report that the deck planking is complete, sanded and ready for WOP
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Thank you Chuck, I hope it looks good even if I sand it down. But I'm sure there will be mistakes. Still, I'm looking forward when the deck will be finished with the WOP.
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Hi guys, I was hoping I'd have the deck done about this time, but unfortunately I'm having a busy time and I don't have the energy to build. But anyway I have finished the hardest part, the center belt. I hope it will go better from here. Progress in pictures:
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What a surprise Glenn, I was expecting you to show the fourth chapter. But anyway, I'm pleased because I'm also thinking how best to simulate the metallic appearance of the barrels. I have a question, did you use any primer before the paint? Did you paint the barrels with a brush or airbrush? Do you apply the weathering powder after the paint is completely dry? At the end you probably need to fix it with matte varnish right? Anyway you did a great job, I don't know if I can imitate it.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I think everything has already been said. I still look at the pictures over and over again with my mouth open. Really beautiful work! And even though your Winie is finished I will be reading this thread for many years to come. So congratulations Chuck, have a wonderful vacation and I'm looking forward to your next project.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Incredibly clean beautiful work Mike. I don't know how you do it.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Well done Frank 👍 I'm glad you're back. Enjoy the planking and I look forward to seeing more photos from the build.
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I envy you Glenn, I would also like to have finished friezes but at the same time, I'm scared of this part. But you did it great and it looks very good. 👍 You're on chapter four soon.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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a small preview of the construction of the coamings and the ship's stove... and I can finally start laying the deck
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Gary, the vibrating sander was not bad, and the belt sander also helped. But it's not a necessity to use them. However, I forgot about the direct grinder which I use most often. That was my first choice.
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Thanks Gary, in the beginning I also used electric grinders. Sanding around the ports was a little more difficult, because the port framing is made of harder wood than the balsa filler and even the bulkheads are made of soft poplar plywood. So the roughest parts with an electric grinder and then by hand with sanding blocks. Follow Chuck's instructions, don't forget the fairing cap and a temporary strip between the hances. Also helps to test the false deck to see if it fits nicely and also the strip as the bulwark will run. So no special method, just looking at the model from all angles, and proceed carefully without haste.
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Thank you Chuck, I'm just trying to follow your building instructions and I'm glad for your perfect templates and laser parts and mostly for the helpful words.
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Thank you Frank and also for all the likes. Before I start laying the decks planks I want to make sure that the Foremast Partner and Stove platform is in the right position. That's why I already have the deck beams ready. I wasn't sure about the placement of the false deck and thought I would have to move the partners back slightly. But in the end, I'm happy as it is. What do you think?
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Thank you for the kind words and likes guys. A few more words I accidentally deleted yesterday. I finished completely bulwark planking and after sanding, I started painting. I think it was 8 layers. First 3 layers mixture of 1part Cadmium medium and 2 parts deep. Color I mentioned on the previous page in posts 31 and 38. But it seemed too sweet to me, so I stopped inventing and the rest of the layers is just Cadmium Deep. The photos don't capture it well, I think I need to do something about my lights. After painting I finished The Paneled Captain's Cabin, Inboard counter at the stern and finally margin planks. Checkered cabin floor is ready but not yet glued.
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