fifthace
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It could just be that the larger scale kits illicit more detail than the scale mine is at then. Mike if your instructions say to use that method of planking then of course follow those. This is only the 1st planking anyway so doesn't make a massive amount of difference, although I'd be interested in how it says to plank the 2nd layer...as that method wouldn't be that attractive, not to mention totally inaccurate.......... You can see what I mean with the planks following the curve of the ship in this photo: -
Al the method I use with planking is very simple. An old Nescafé jar, filled with water. I sit 8 or 10 planks in that water so I always have soaked planks ready to be shaped. As it normally takes me days to get to the planks I have in the water they are more than pliable. If it is only a shallow bend I dispense with water and just use Amati's plank bender instead. It's the "chain coming out of the deck" that is confusing me. On the Caldercraft Bounty the anchor rope comes through the hawse in the bulwarks and is laid straight along the deck until it reaches the windlass and then the excess is coiled up neatly on the deck.... Pilots are always a good idea, especially on AL's kits, as the wood does tend to be quite hard. Same with my method of planking, may require more with you building an AL kit. I know my AL's Victory the wood for the planking was like carbon reinforced steel!
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What do the plans say with regard to planking? On the Bounty that plank should follow the bottom edge of the bulwark upwards towards the stern, (as it is flush with the lay of the deck), and at the bow again should follow the bottom edge of the bulwark upwards. and the top of that plank should be level with the deck amidships. Though looking at the forward bulwarks the plank should be flush with the top edge... See on mine: Also, the map pins, put them through the frames rather than the plank. The pin will help hold the plank in position and stop it from springing straight and the cap of the pin will hold it against the frame, and you won't be putting holes through the planks or risk splitting them.
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They are in the decks? They should be in the bulwark at the bow, take a look at my log. No idea which is correct now though...
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To be honest with you Mike most of the detail in that guide I tend to ignore, especially with a double planked hull. I am not out to build museum pieces with 110% accuracy so all the measuring and calculating plank widths I don't bother with. I start, unless specified otherwise. with a control strake, (the term for a bow to stern planked layer) at the level of the first topmost deck, (in the case of multiple level decks). As the false deck piece will usually already follow a slope/dip/slope contour, this ensures the planking is started with the correct gradual slopes. Ok some ships are slightly different, such as the Victory where the planks and rubbing strakes follow different angles, so this is a loose rule of thumb. I would then continue planking down towards the keel, tapering each successive plank so it isn't forced to bend laterally which would result in a stepped hull, until I reach a point where the next plank would need to sweep upwards at the bow to a point where it won't go all the way to the front. I would then switch and start planking from the keep upwards, again tapering where needed until the lower and upper planking meet at the bow, which they usually meet at the stern as well, depending on the hull type. Then I continue planking from bottom to top, butting the planks up against the lower edges of the upper planking. Don't forget, at the stern don't try and force the planks to sit right against each other, they will naturally want to lay with a triangular gap, these get filled later with "stealers". Sometimes you will find stealers are needed at the bow as well. One thing to note, as an exception to how to start the planking, on the Bounty the upper edge of the planking sweeps up above the level of the deck at the bow, so take a look at the plans for where that slope starts. Hope that makes the general process a little clearer for you? PS: A hawse pipe is a hole or channel through which the anchor chain/rope passes through.
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Al will see if I can help... 1: What the heck is a "progressive offset" ??? 2: for infilling with balsa: It doesn't really matter how it's done, whether a single block fitted in or several, as long as it sits proud of the frames then just sand it down flush and to the correct curve. 3: Brass wasn't really used for the metal work for ships, it was all ironwork, so even when a ship was new it wasn't a shiny brass colour, but a dull grey/black. Personally I always spray the brass and photo etch components of a ship, (that is designed to replicate the iron work) with a grey primer designed for car bodywork, then brush or spray black afterwards.
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Mike, take a look at this: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf Might be of some assistance.
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You might only get two oars, but seems at least you get wooden ones! I just got flat PE ones
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Launch is great, nice work my friend. Infilling looks like it is going well too, should be really helpful when you get to the planking.
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I agree with Danny, Carpenters glue will probably be better than CA for brute strength. Best way is to glue it down and clamp it and just forget about it for a day or so, should be fine. The one thing that puzzles me with these open hull kits, as Mike has found out on his, is the internal decking never sits flush with the outside of the frames, resulting in an, albeit not really visible, gap between the edge of the deck and the interior face of the planking. I think it's something that would bug me Stunning work so far though Al, look forward to seeing more.
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Coming along nicely there JesseLee, some interesting techniques. I will be finishing a build of this for a friend's dad who has passed away, so will be watching your progress.
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Mike that is some good advice from Al there. Definitely check the masts, or at least the size dowel used for the lower section, fits frequently and square, it's much harder to correct later. Although keep note that on the Bounty the foremast is bolt upright, 90 degree's to the deck looking from abeam, however the main and mizzen masts are at a slight backwards angle. I assume our kit has taken that into account but check your plans to be sure. They will still be 90 degrees looking from bow to stern though. It's easier to correct now than later.
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haha yeh it can be a pain. I notice you're in gods country too, do you have a Home Bargains near you? Locktite Superglue Gel, normally £5 in the shops, £1 a pop! I stock up on the stuff every time I go shopping! And because it is a gel it has great small planking gap filling properties, (fill the gap with it, and quickly sand the area with a coarse paper...the sawdust collects in the gel and fills the gap and it's hardly noticeable). You also get a few seconds manoeuvring time as well. One tip though, when first opening sometimes the tube itself twists when screwing the cap on for the first time, so I pierce with a map pin, and then use a map pit in the nozzle instead of the normal lid, which ALWAYS ends up blocking itself.
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Mike the gaps between the decks and the planking is common. In normal cases no it wouldn't be visible, even with the side open, from what I can tell, unless you stick a mini camera with light in after she is finished there is no way that area is going to be visible. Thanks for the description, the pencil and several at a time is pretty much the method I found the best, although you seem to have developed it further than I have been able to. I also cut to length and attach one at a time, however I use cyano purely for speed, although being quick is essential, I have come a cropper once or twice lol
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First time I have had a proper look at your decking, really very impressed. I wonder if I could trouble you for your exact method, including how you simulated the caulking? I have tried many different methods with an ok result, but not great like this. As for your question on the fairing, the best way is to use some balsa wood to fill those gaps on the last bulkhead, and sand them to the contours of the frames until you can get a plank to lay smooth and flush. I assume the bulwarks get planked with veneer? If so, then sand the joins reasonably smooth and they will be fine. (Personally I hate pre-fabricated bulwarks for the very reason of them breaking when bending )
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You need a few hot days, a hosepipe and two paving slabs. Hose the ply down so it is completely saturated, lay the soaked ply on one slab and place the other on top and leave it to bake in the sun for a day or so until bone dry. If it is still warped after that....um....get some more ply and cut a replacement.
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haha Al it's a liquid, usually, you brush it onto tissue paper once it has been fixed to the frame of an aircraft and when it dries it hardens to an almost plastic-like substance, although not as strong, but it is incredibly light which makes it ideal for use in model planes. Plus it stinks!
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Is the model double planked? If so, use single lengths for the first planking, purely for ease, and then if you decide to you can split/stagger the 2nd planking. If you decide to you may want to do some research first on how she was planked, and if she was planked using split planks, how they were staggered etc.
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Well, rule of thumb with starting the planking, is it usually, (not always), starts level with the lowest upper deck. In the case of the Bounty, the main top deck as she is single level. Start at the bow, and plank towards the stern. With the Bounty though check the plans as the planks slop up at the bow and don't simply follow the lay of the deck, they follow it towards the stern though. Plank one strip on one side bow to stern, then do the same on the opposite side. And continue alternating like this. If you plank all on one side to start with, the pressure of the planks will pull the entire structure to one side, banana boat style. It is a general guide though as individual ships all have slight differences in the way they should be planked. Hope this helps ?
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I think you are over analysing. Plus, remember that most kits aren't built in exactly the same way as the real things. They are PoB, Plank on Bulkhead, evenly spaced bulkheads, where as the majority of tall ships were really built using PoF, Plank on Frame, and there were a lot more frames and a lot closer together, plus in most cases were, as far as I am aware, planking internally as well as externally. A simple google search will easily show you the differences: Plank on Bulkhead Plank on Frame As for the exact answer to your question, no idea on that one sorry.
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haha that's just an act trust me. When I was younger my best friend was a goth and he had a great sense of humour, and a previous relationship had a daughter who was emo...who had something that could be described as a sense of humour but it was rather warped and sometimes inappropriate
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lol..."some hippy shop" :D
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Hiya Steve, Glad you posted, I sent them an email asking where my next dispatch was too. Been 6 weeks since my first one. On the flip side, they have sent me an entire replacement for issue #2 complete with, this time, an intact figurehead. So thanks but I'm ok now, am sure there will be others who have damaged ones though.
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To be honest that is down to personal preference/self-confidence in planking. If it was me, I wouldn't, but as I said, it's all down to personal preference really.
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