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Everything posted by jim_smits
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HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft
jim_smits replied to drtrap's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
I will echo Jason here again. Get your channels and pinrails on first. Don't know about Jason but my channels required a couple of friendly taps with a hammer to get the pins fully home both in the channel and the hull. -
HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft
jim_smits replied to drtrap's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Hi mate, That plan is the belaying plan and the numbers indicate rigging line numbers from plans 5,6 and 7. They are not part numbers. Jim -
HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft
jim_smits replied to drtrap's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
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Looking good Jason. It's amazing how much the ship comes alive once the bowspirit and masts are added....!
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Hi Jason I fitted all the deck fixings before installing the bowspirit and therefore didn't pin it in. If the bracing for the bowspirit is filed to the correct angle then the bowspirit will wedge itself in nicely. A bit of CA and all the subsequent gammoning and rigging and the bowspirit will not be moving anywhere.....! Jim
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Thanks guys. Managed to complete the ratlines starboard side of the foremast, only 5 more sets to go. And then it's onto the top masts and another set of ratlines. Joy!
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Looking fantastic Ray. This build will be essential reference when I take on Diana.
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Ratlines still continuing. I think I'm gradually getting better at them but doesn't make them anymore fun to do....! I keep having to tweak as the lines go slack as I put new ones in. Will get there though. To ensure I don't go totally mad, I have taken breaks from ratlines and have done some work on the masts and yards. I have invested in a David Plane, and it has made the job of shaping the octagonal sections far easier. The shaping of the top sections of the masts was quite tricky and took a lot of patience. I will come back to these later with some more detailed images. The Spiritsail has now been fixed in place and mostly rigged in. I have fitted some pins to the masts so that I can fix the yards in place. This now really gives a great impression of how the ship will start to look.
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Hi Mort, The mizzen mast base was included in my kit. It's listed as a part but not on the parts diagrams, but I definitely had it. As for the chain plate brackets, you will only need 18. It is only the larger shrouds connected by 5mm deadeyes that require the brackets. 5 on each side for the mainmast and 4 each side for the foremast. The smaller shrouds connected by 3.5mm deadeyes are pinned directly to the hull. Hope this makes sense. I can show a picture this evening when I'm back from work. Jim
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Will the Snake group collectively become the Diana group....?!
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Hi Jason, I also find myself contemplating the next build to go for. My two main candidates at the moment are Diana, as I like the look of the step up to quarter galleries, decorated stern and a gun deck, or Warrior as it is very impressive vessel and having visited it in Portsmouth during the summer. In addition I am considering the mortar vessel convulsion as a smaller cheaper build to test some techniques upon. My eventual target will be Victory but that will wait until I have bought a house in a couple of years. I need more build space!
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Very nice Jason! It's good to get the weapon rigging out the way isn't it?!
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HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft
jim_smits replied to drtrap's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
As Jason said, don't worry about the capping rail exact positioning. They were a pain to do and as long as they look sensible and are pinned to the bulwarks then all should be well. -
Hi Stergios, The pillars came as seperate items to the board and therefore can be placed wherever you like. I pinned one to the board and sunk the other to get correct waterline. Same effect could be had with different height pillars but couldn't find suitable ones in stock. I had to file the jaws pretty extensively with my dremel to get a correct snug fit to the keel though. Jim
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It's one of the Hardwood Mounting Bases by Amati. Comes ready varnished.
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Cornwall Model Boats - do a search for 'mounting' and all the bases and pillars will be returned.
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I have now upgraded the base for the ship to it's final display base. Ordered a base and a couple of mounting pillars. Had to inset the rear pillar to ensure that the water line was level. Pleased with the result. I have taken a minor break from ratlines to fit the main mast stays. Fitted the main stay to the bowspirit and main mast. Just need to follow up with the preventer stay.
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Ratlines driving me insane! That is all.....
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Looks great Jason! It's funny I was looking at my cat heads in exactly the same way the other night.......
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As promised I have installed the port side futtock shrouds. Firstly, as per main shrouds sieze a deadeye using 0.75mm thread and 0.25mm thread and cement. Allow to dry and then trim. Thread through one of the gaps in the platform. Pull down to the seizing. Being very careful at this point, pull the seizing through the gap. You may need to remove and sand a little further. Thread the trailing length around the bar. Pull taut. Then seize to the main shrouds ensuring everything remains nice and taut. Cement in place. Repeat as necessary!
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Thanks Jason! It took far too long to get the catharpins in place! I kept making the length about 5mm too long and then had a senior moment (only 34....) and then made one 10mm too short.... The deadeyes at the top of the futtocks are basically the same as the shroud deadeyes ie wrapped 0.75mm thread aroud deadeye and siezed using 0.25mm thread, cemented and trimmed down. I had to sand the gaps in the platform a little bit and it was a tight fit but then threaded the thread through the gap and pulled the deadeye down to the platform. The shroud was then wrapped once around the bar and siezed to the main shrouds. I'll do the port side tonight and take some images during the process so you can see.
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Well I've managed to fit the catharpins in place on the foremast shrouds. Seriously fiddly job with fitting them in place and i'm not entirely convinced that it's the neatest job but they're in. Created the catarpins themselves by threading 0.75mm thread through itself to create a spliced loop on each end. Used a sewing needle to pierce a hole at the required point in the thread. Pushed the needle though halfway. Then threaded the needle with the thread end. Pulled the thread through itself. Repeat for the other end, glue the joints with Cement, and trim down the thread a bit. Once cement is fully dry then complete trim back. I then fitted three of these between the shrouds using a couple of loops of 0.25mm thread. Once in place I then started work on adding futtock shrouds.
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Ok. Question time! I have added ratlines at every fourth line to help keep the shape of the shrouds, and I have worked my way up to the bar that the catharpins are rigged against. I have glued the bars in place with a bit of CA. Now my query is how have people gone about rigging the catharpins in place? The plans would seem to indicate that they are wrapped around the bar and then seized in place. However, upon trying this it is damn difficult to get the tensions correct without seriously warping the shrouds and also actually getting the seizing to work without it all looking massively out of scale. The rigging book I have has shown that catharpins would actually be created by splicing a loop at each end just short of the bar and the seizing through the loop to the bar with some thinner line. Recommendations would be most welcome!
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