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jim_smits

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Everything posted by jim_smits

  1. jim_smits
    Hi Eamonn, I'm very surprised that you have been waiting so long for your order from CMB. I've always found them to be incredibly quick with orders; order in the morning and receive the following day. It's probably worth you giving them a ring and checking up on the order....?
  2. jim_smits
    Pinned the port side bulwark to the bulkheads and glued at deck level, and to the stem and stern. One thing I am finding is that the fit of the lower edge of the bulwark at bulkhead two is quite far from being flush to the bulkhead. I have steamed the bulwark and have clamped to try and shape the bulwark round the shape of the Bulkhead. Anyone else found this an issue?
  3. jim_smits
    Fully caught up now! The false deck has been pinned and glued in. All the bulkheads have been shaped to fit the bulwarks and planking. Shaped the bulwarks by immersing in boiling water and then pegging to the bulkheads. Both bulwarks are a good approximate shape now, so next step is to pin to the bulkheads prior to planking.Y Everything looking a lot better this time....!
  4. jim_smits
    Good solid bit of work last night. The keel bottom, stem and stern post have all had pinning holes made prior to bearding and rabbet work. Dremelled the bearding line and rabbet onto the false keel. Finally, attached all the bulkheads in place, ensuring square in all dimensions, using a few dabs of cyano before liberally adding gorilla wood glue to fix in place. All looking good so far and the false deck fits nicely. Need to bevel the bulkheads and the stern bulkhead to the deck level.
  5. jim_smits
    Big backwards steps. After adding the deck in place, I decided I really wasnt happy with the bulkheads positioning. It looks like a couple of them were off-canter and were really throwing out the lines that would be planked and the decking lay. Took drastic action and attempted to seperate off the bulkheads and try and re-glue. Unfortunately my initial contruction was far too sound and the glued joints refused to budge but a couple of the bulkheads split. Went back to JoTiKa and got a replacement ply sprue with the false keel and bulkheads. Just in the process and put it back together. I think the issue is that the bulkheads were quite loose originally so made lining up in all three dimensions difficult. I have taken the time to drawing some construction lines on the bulkheads to aid getting them lined up perfectly. Shouldnt take too long to catch back up.
  6. jim_smits
    Been a little bit busy of late, so no huge progress. In fact I have gone backwards a little bit.... I decided I really wasnt happy with the positioning of the futtocks on the mizzen shrouds and the tensioning in the shrouds on the top mast. Very carefully have cut the futtock taves and shrouds and have now added a couple of extra levels of ratlines and raised the level of the staves. The angles should look far better now. Just need to re-tie the catharpins in place and get the right tension and then seize the futtock shrouds back in place.
  7. jim_smits
    Hi, I think between the builds from BeefW and myself there is quite a bit on rigging of carronades. Take a look on the builds and ask if there are any gaps.... Jim
  8. jim_smits
    To be honest I haven't tied the ratlines down to the deadeye as I can't decide if it will look any good or not....
  9. jim_smits
    Thanks for the image DFellingham. I had a rummage through Lever, and did a little experimentation. I found in the end I prefered the crossed catharpin, even if it might not be the most accurate method, it seemed to work the best in securing the futtocks at the main top mast. Moved onto ratlines on the mizzen top mast. These are surprisingly difficult due to the shrouds being thinner in this area. The issues of twisting the shroud are more evident as I tighten the clove hitches. Finally, I have made a stab at the first back stay on the fore top mast. Got all the rigging together and hooked into the channel ok. The blocks and the rigging of the stay seem to press against the deadeyes and lanyards a touch. Is it correct that the back stay would be 'outside' of the shrouds down to the channel, with the loose end of the rigging crossing under the last ratline in order to be belayed?
  10. jim_smits
    Fantastic looking work Jason. Can't quite tell by looking at the pictures but did you cross the shroud line above the deadeye and knot together or did you simply siexe the two ends side by side? I crossed all of mine, and I can tell you it was really difficult to keep the deadeye in position and secure the shroud in place with it crossed.....
  11. jim_smits
    Looking good Eamonn. I might have to go back to my Ballahoo soon as you'll ovetake me very shortly....!
  12. jim_smits
    One might look a bit odd so might go for crossed to keep the tension on the shrouds level....
  13. jim_smits
    Concentrating a bit on the Snake build at the moment. Sorry to the Ballahoo supporters....! Managed to polish off ratlines for the Main Top Mast. Need to add Futtocks and catharpins. I did have a question relating to catharpins, in that at the top of the main top mast, the mast itself lies between 50% of width of the futtocks, and would result in a catharpin that wraps quite considerably round the mast. I know I have a minor issue with this in the other shrouds but seems quite extreme in this case. Would it be correct to just fit a single catharpin between the futtocks or two with one of them pressed against the mast? Starting to think about back stays now for the foremast as well. Time to press on and make up for the lost month of build.....
  14. jim_smits
    Welcome on board Eamonn!
  15. jim_smits
    Hi, I cut the bearding and rabbet down to the middle layer of the Ply. So, approx 1mm on each side leaving 2mm in the middle. Take make the keel more secure I drilled holes to pin the keel before I cut the rabbet line. Hope that helps.....
  16. jim_smits
    Hi Patrick Yeah my second bulkhead is short on both sides. Hopefully will be able to sort all these tomorrow evening. And yes, both bulwarks were round the same mug....! Jim
  17. jim_smits
    Quick check gives about 80mm for my third bulkhead. I think my second is slightly off as well. I probably won't get time to fix these until Thursday now.
  18. jim_smits
    Run into a minor issue I think. Having started to shape and test the bulwarks against the frames, it looks like the third bulkhead isn't quite wide enough and will result in a dip in planking on the starboard side. I am hoping that I will be able to solve this with some spare lime planking and then a careful reshape, using a plank to test the line of the hull. Hopefully this shouldn't be to difficult to resolve and I can commence with attaching the bulwarks and planking.
  19. jim_smits
    They look fantastic Jason. Really struggled with the mouse on my stays and this has made it look simple. Bet you're looking forward to ratlines now.....!
  20. jim_smits
    Got my replacement parts from JoTiKa today. Great service from them as I only spoke to them on Thursday. Next step for the build is to gradually shape the bulwarks. Using a mug and large clips at the moment. Once they are roughly the correct shape I will bend to the bulkheads on the ship.
  21. jim_smits
    Excellent progress today! Glued the crosstree assemblies onto the fore and main masts and replaced the shrouds that I had previously removed. Rethreaded all of the shroud lanyards and just need to seize the ends around the shrouds. I'm pretty much back to where I was before the accident. After that it's back to finishing off the ratlines again. Never thought I'd be glad to be back to ratlines....!
  22. jim_smits
    Crosstree assemblies are now complete. They're not perfect but i'm very happy with how they have turned out. I just need to paint both assemblies and then glue back onto the fore and main mast. Getting there......
  23. jim_smits
    Quite pleased with myself! The scratch building is going pretty well so far. Made two of the crosstrees. First cut pieces of 2mm x 15mm walnut to rough size, I then used a file to file the angled ends and then the notches to size. The trestletrees were a little more complex. Fortunately, I was able to rescue a single piece from the wreckage and use this as a template. I cut several pieces of walnut to approximate size and then pinned the trestletree to a piece. I was then able to cut and shave the wood to shape using the template. Managed to complete three successfully so far. Two more required.
  24. jim_smits
    Ok. I have now tied down all the shrouds, and I just need to trim the excess thread and paint the chains black. The next main step is to very carefully remove the fore topmast shrouds. I plan to cut the lanyards, and slide the shrouds off in one piece. I need to do this as I have to replace the crosstree assembly, which is basically shattered. I need to do the same for the main topmast. Which leads me onto the difficult part.... I am going to scratch build the cross trees. This means 6 crosstree and 4 trestletrees pieces. Onwards.....
  25. jim_smits
    Hi Jason, Those look spot on to me. I didn't tighten too much when I rigged the lanyards, just enough to get some tension in the shrouds.

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