jim_smits

As promised to Stergios I have documented my method for producing one of the shrouds.
 
Started off with a suitable length of 0.75mm black thread for the shroud line and mounted up into the serving machine.

 
Passed a needle through the shroud.

 
Threaded the needle with Gutermann thread for the serving.

 
Passed the needle and thread through the shroud line.

 
Repeat at 90 degrees.

 
Knot the end, trim and paint with some diluted PVA and allow to dry.

 
To serve hold the Gutermann thread between finger and thumb to keep taut but still allow to pass through as the serving machine is rotated.

 
I estimated that I needed 8cm served for the top loop of the shrouds.

 
Keeping the tension in the thread, cut off and thread through a needle and pass through the shroud line twice, tie off and paint with PVA.
 
Once complete the loose ends can be trimmed back to the main line with tweezers and a sharp scalpel.
 
 
 
 

Right then, time for an update!
 
Got a few bits done. Added ratlines to the foremast shrouds, decided to go with natural thread for the ratlines. Really like the contrast between the shrouds and the ratlines. Still don't enjoy tying loads of love hitches but hey ho, it's got to be done. Shouldn't really complain as there aren't that many. Wait until I get onto Diana and Victory....
 
Completed the foremast stay. Used the serving machine to serve around 6cm of line, then passed back and forth several times over a 5mm length to build up a mouse. Each pass was painted with a dab of diluted PVA to help hold the mouse together. Finished off with a further couple of centimetres of serving.
 
Added a loop in the end of the stay by folding the stay back on itself, holding in place using a set of helping hands and then added a false splice to complete the loop. Passed the other end of the stay through the loop and tightened until the mouse was snugly set in the loop and added to the top of the foremast. Added in a deadeye as per the shrouds and threaded in the lanyard.
 
Finally, rigged in the bobstay from the bowsprit to the front of bow with a rigging hook.
 
 

As promised to Stergios I have documented my method for producing one of the shrouds.
 
Started off with a suitable length of 0.75mm black thread for the shroud line and mounted up into the serving machine.

 
Passed a needle through the shroud.

 
Threaded the needle with Gutermann thread for the serving.

 
Passed the needle and thread through the shroud line.

 
Repeat at 90 degrees.

 
Knot the end, trim and paint with some diluted PVA and allow to dry.

 
To serve hold the Gutermann thread between finger and thumb to keep taut but still allow to pass through as the serving machine is rotated.

 
I estimated that I needed 8cm served for the top loop of the shrouds.

 
Keeping the tension in the thread, cut off and thread through a needle and pass through the shroud line twice, tie off and paint with PVA.
 
Once complete the loose ends can be trimmed back to the main line with tweezers and a sharp scalpel.
 
 
 
 

Right then, time for an update!
 
Got a few bits done. Added ratlines to the foremast shrouds, decided to go with natural thread for the ratlines. Really like the contrast between the shrouds and the ratlines. Still don't enjoy tying loads of love hitches but hey ho, it's got to be done. Shouldn't really complain as there aren't that many. Wait until I get onto Diana and Victory....
 
Completed the foremast stay. Used the serving machine to serve around 6cm of line, then passed back and forth several times over a 5mm length to build up a mouse. Each pass was painted with a dab of diluted PVA to help hold the mouse together. Finished off with a further couple of centimetres of serving.
 
Added a loop in the end of the stay by folding the stay back on itself, holding in place using a set of helping hands and then added a false splice to complete the loop. Passed the other end of the stay through the loop and tightened until the mouse was snugly set in the loop and added to the top of the foremast. Added in a deadeye as per the shrouds and threaded in the lanyard.
 
Finally, rigged in the bobstay from the bowsprit to the front of bow with a rigging hook.
 
 

Nice deep colour to the decking. What did you treat your wood with?

Not quite the same build but I will (hopefully) be serving and seizing the shrouds on my Ballahoo main mast tonight. I will take prictures of the process and post on my build. Hope this will help you out a bit.

That looks fantastic Jim, am loving the Mouse !! Oh and the contrast between the Shrouds & Ratlines is brillo too.. will have to give it serious consideration  
 
All The Best Mate
 
Eamonn 

Right then, time for an update!
 
Got a few bits done. Added ratlines to the foremast shrouds, decided to go with natural thread for the ratlines. Really like the contrast between the shrouds and the ratlines. Still don't enjoy tying loads of love hitches but hey ho, it's got to be done. Shouldn't really complain as there aren't that many. Wait until I get onto Diana and Victory....
 
Completed the foremast stay. Used the serving machine to serve around 6cm of line, then passed back and forth several times over a 5mm length to build up a mouse. Each pass was painted with a dab of diluted PVA to help hold the mouse together. Finished off with a further couple of centimetres of serving.
 
Added a loop in the end of the stay by folding the stay back on itself, holding in place using a set of helping hands and then added a false splice to complete the loop. Passed the other end of the stay through the loop and tightened until the mouse was snugly set in the loop and added to the top of the foremast. Added in a deadeye as per the shrouds and threaded in the lanyard.
 
Finally, rigged in the bobstay from the bowsprit to the front of bow with a rigging hook.
 
 

Right then, time for an update!
 
Got a few bits done. Added ratlines to the foremast shrouds, decided to go with natural thread for the ratlines. Really like the contrast between the shrouds and the ratlines. Still don't enjoy tying loads of love hitches but hey ho, it's got to be done. Shouldn't really complain as there aren't that many. Wait until I get onto Diana and Victory....
 
Completed the foremast stay. Used the serving machine to serve around 6cm of line, then passed back and forth several times over a 5mm length to build up a mouse. Each pass was painted with a dab of diluted PVA to help hold the mouse together. Finished off with a further couple of centimetres of serving.
 
Added a loop in the end of the stay by folding the stay back on itself, holding in place using a set of helping hands and then added a false splice to complete the loop. Passed the other end of the stay through the loop and tightened until the mouse was snugly set in the loop and added to the top of the foremast. Added in a deadeye as per the shrouds and threaded in the lanyard.
 
Finally, rigged in the bobstay from the bowsprit to the front of bow with a rigging hook.
 
 

Right then, time for an update!
 
Got a few bits done. Added ratlines to the foremast shrouds, decided to go with natural thread for the ratlines. Really like the contrast between the shrouds and the ratlines. Still don't enjoy tying loads of love hitches but hey ho, it's got to be done. Shouldn't really complain as there aren't that many. Wait until I get onto Diana and Victory....
 
Completed the foremast stay. Used the serving machine to serve around 6cm of line, then passed back and forth several times over a 5mm length to build up a mouse. Each pass was painted with a dab of diluted PVA to help hold the mouse together. Finished off with a further couple of centimetres of serving.
 
Added a loop in the end of the stay by folding the stay back on itself, holding in place using a set of helping hands and then added a false splice to complete the loop. Passed the other end of the stay through the loop and tightened until the mouse was snugly set in the loop and added to the top of the foremast. Added in a deadeye as per the shrouds and threaded in the lanyard.
 
Finally, rigged in the bobstay from the bowsprit to the front of bow with a rigging hook.
 
 

Here is my 1st attempt using the cotton line No 10

A photo shot showing the three different serving lines (cotton 10 on the right, polyester in the middle and cotton 40 on the left) from a distance

A close up view of the cotton 10

A close up view of the 100% polyester line

and the close up view of the cotton 40...

 
For the mo I really don't know which one is the best to use as my serving line....
That's for today
Thanks again.
 
Cheers
 
 

Hi Stergios
 
I used the rope diameters as stated in the plans. To do the actual serving my current method is as follows:
 
Attached the line to be served to the serving machine having confirmed the length to be served.
Pass a sewing needle through the line at the start point and leave it in the line. Thread the serving line into needle and pull through. Keeping needle threaded, pass it through the same point gain at 90 degrees to first pass.
Knot the lines with a basic knot and dab a little watered PVA on the knot. This will hold fast and you can start serving immediately before PVA dries.
I use my right hand to turn the serving machine and my left hand to hold the serving thread. I use my index finger and thumb to hold the line keeping it slightly taut and slightly ahead of the serve, whilst allowing line to pass through as the serving takes place.
Once at the finishing point you have to be careful. Pass a needle through (still holding serving line in left hand!) at the ending point. Thread the end of serving line through keeping taut. Pull needle though twice as before. Line will now be held. Knot and glue with watered PVA.
I will post some pictures later if that helps.

First off let me say Hello to all the Lords of the Dark Side, your tolerance will be gratefully accepted.
 
I would like to give plaudits to Jeff Hayes of Hobbymills for superb quality materials, the timber really is first class, also to Jeff Staudt for a fine set of drawings.
 
A special thanks to Grant for all his hard work in working out the quantity of timber required and the different types, I just had to make some minor adjustments to the order. Below is a taster of the timber to be used.
 
 
 
As you are probably aware this is a group project build with Grant, Jack and myself, ( at the moment ), this the first scratch build for all of us apart from prefabricating kits parts that were not happy with and I think we've all done that.   
 
It would be great if others wanted to join in. We will be working in unison and posting in our own logs and this is the start of my log.
 
I started by practicing with my tools and would you believe it this framing jig appeared, as this was a practice piece and it didn't count towards the build but on investigation I found I hadn't got any more material I could use and so had to keep it.    
 
 
 
Following on from the jig, I started practicing on the frames themselves and I found out a few things I need to work on, 1st, Don't cut so close to the lines, give your self a bit of room. 2nd, Easy on the sanders, don't put so much pressure when sanding down and 3rd, It doesn't take much to remove the skin from the knuckles with a disc sander, this had been switched of and was slowing down, I helped it stop and found out how good my bandaids are.
 
I made a double frame but will not be using it, I can and will do better.
 
 
 
 
 
Following on from that I attempted the Keel, this is made up from 4 pieces, Ebony for the Keel, followed by Swiss Pear for the False Keel Upper and Lower and the Hog. This Keel looks difficult but in reality is quite simple, you just need to be accurate, a rabbet is cut into it when all the pieces are assembled. I was going to use my router for this but there is a deviation 2/3rds along it's length so this had to be cut by hand, I used my trusty Stanley knife carefully, (we have a history) and finished with a triangle file. Below is the completed practice keel
 
 
 
So, that's the start of my new log, if anyone has any questions please don't be afraid to ask Grant !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 

Excellent build Mobbsie! Many congratulations on completing her!

It is brazing if correctly titled but I think many just call it silver soldering. I use a silver flux paste from a syringe. Dead simple and excellent joint for this high tension rigging areas.

Hi mate,
 
I've got a gas pen torch and I use it for silver soldering which is WAY better than standard soldering for strength. Did my deadeye strops for my Bally with brass wire and silver flux. Definately the way to go. Having said that my traditional soldering iron is getting a workout at the moment whilst I dabble in some electronics (which is distracting me from my builds.....)

I think Jason has been distracted by his other build.... Not that i'm much better......

Hi mate,
 
I've got a gas pen torch and I use it for silver soldering which is WAY better than standard soldering for strength. Did my deadeye strops for my Bally with brass wire and silver flux. Definately the way to go. Having said that my traditional soldering iron is getting a workout at the moment whilst I dabble in some electronics (which is distracting me from my builds.....)

I think Jason has been distracted by his other build.... Not that i'm much better......

All Righty Then.. Photos of Carronades as Promised.. Cos I'm Nice Like That   
 
Fairly noticeable size difference don't you think,  they are both allegedly 12 lbr's though the Upgrade is more the correct size, as per my sources they should be circa 2 feet 2 inch long which is a little over 1 cm at scale.. The kit ones probably wouldn't be out of place on the fore-deck of Victory 
The upgrades were bright brass when they arrived and were chemically 'blackened' to this deep metallic looking bronze colour.  Looking at them in the first proper bit of sun-light I've seen since treating them it seems they may need to go a little darker!
I shall have to contemplate this over a coffee or two...   
 
later edit.. for some reason some of my posts seem to have unintentional large bold text in them.. don't know why this is happening.. it isn't in the original 'pre posting' versions.
 
Take Care Folks
 
Eamonn

I've purchased Gutermann thread from eBay. You can get all you'll ever need for a few euros. I've purchased Black and Tan for various requirements.
 
In addition to use on serving machine I use it for splices, and simulating seizing as described in the carronades section oft Ballahoo build.

Stergios - I'd add my voice to the 'support for serving' club.  In my view, it makes a big difference in the look of the rigging.  The principle of serving is very simple, theres no manual, but I've seen people sharing individual ideas and I've tried to do that as I goalong, a lot of it comes down to what you find works for you.  It does take more time, but I decided to commit as I would not have been happy with the non-served rigging and am glad I did.  I use Alexey Domanoff's excellent machine as seen here on MSW and have been happy along with many others, he does provide a guide on his website to the basic techniques.  Let us know what you decide!

The build is really coming together Stergios.
 
I would recommend serving as it looks excellent and is well worth the time. I wish I had served all my shrouds on my Snake.

Cheers guys.
 
I've done the ratlines in 0.25mm thread supplied with the kit. All tied in clove hitches and then soaked in watered PVA glue.
 
To trim off the ends I just used a pair of tweezers and a sharp scalpel.

Quick update on the Ballahoo.
 
Onto my favourite task of tying ratlines..... Gone with the tan line and it interesting to see the contrast to the black shrouds. Only got as far as the port side so far but making progress.
 
I draw a paper template for the shrouds and the spacing of the ratlines and used this to tie every fourth ratline. Double checked the spacing and then added every second and finally filled the gaps. Once the spacing was sorted I fixed in place with some diluted PVA, allowed to dry and trimmed of the ends.
 
Still got a bit to do towards the top end and then onto the starboard side.