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Dan Poirier

NRG Member
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About Dan Poirier

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    Chapel Hill, NC

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  1. Welcome! I also think the Chris Craft speed boats look amazing. I haven't built any, though.
  2. I really enjoyed building the 3 MSW models that are recommended for beginners. The instructions had some hand-holding for beginners, just not as much as I was expecting and could have made good use of. At times undefined terms were used, or directions were incomplete. Still, I haven't built enough models to know whether there are others that are any better, or that's just par for the course. I've only gotten about as far as you with the Vanguard Sherbourne model, but so far I'm impressed with the instructions. There's more detail, and many more pictures, which is very helpful.
  3. I'm having to extend a few bulkheads so they go high enough to line up with the bottom of the top rail on the diagram underneath. I'm also going to have to move a few of the spacer/supports between the bulkheads a little bit lower, so I can trim those bulkheads down to line up with the top rail.
  4. Double-check the 3/8" size, it seemed awfully big to me. I thought it might be a typo for 3/16". (Ultimately, I just free-handed with a smaller file rather than buy a new one just for this.)
  5. In my experience the isopropyl doesn't completely dissolve the glue, but it does soften it from rock-hard to a thick sticky paste and then I can carefully pry the pieces apart. Sometimes the hard part is getting the alcohol to reach the glue.
  6. This was my first model kit and brings back some good memories. I think I redid my knees several times until I was happy with them. It's so nice being able to re-do a glued joint, and I take advantage of it regularly 🙂
  7. Welcome! I read the O'Brian series years ago, and now that I'm building model ships, I keep thinking I should read them again.
  8. I think I had to read the instructions at least four or five times before it started to sink in.
  9. Before installing the bulkheads, the notches in the keelson needed to be deepened. Then the bulkheads were glued in place, using part of a carpenter square to make sure they were upright and at right angles to the keel.
  10. I continued cutting the rabbets. In this picture you can see how cutting angles on the corners of the keel and keelson created a place for the edge of a plank to rest when the two pieces are joined. At the bow, the angle of the planks to the stem gradually changes from 45 to 90 degrees. The top end of the stem has a flat-bottomed rabbet to receive the ends of those planks. With the rabbeting all done, the keel and stem pieces were glued to the backing board.
  11. I'm starting on carving the rabbets to receive the plank ends. First marking 1/32" from either side of the edges of the keel and stem pieces, then starting to sand down, forming half of the 90 degree socket at a 45 degree angle that'll receive the plank ends when the two keel pieces are joined.
  12. I hope to improve my planking skills by doing the Nautical Research Guild's 18th-Century Merchantman Half-Hull Planking Kit. The first challenge turned out to be gluing the plan to a piece of foamboard. It was my first time using spray adhesive, and I discovered that there's no room for error - once the glued paper touches the glued foamboard, it's pretty well stuck. It did seem for a few seconds that I might be able to carefully peel the paper off and reposition it, but in no time I had completely destroyed my paper. Luckily, I was working with a copy of the original plans. I was able to make another copy and try again. This time I stuck the left half of the paper in place with post-its, then folded the right half back over it. I sprayed the back of the right half and the right half of the backing board, waited a minute, then very carefully unfolded the right side and smoothed it down starting from the fold. Then I folded the left half over the right and repeated the process. It worked so much better. (No pictures, since the plans are proprietary.)
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