Bill Tuttle
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Bill Tuttle reacted to wefalck in Need help on painting sails
It is a question of scale and what the base material is going to be. Real fabric is not really suitable except for the largest scales, say 1:20 or above, due to too coarse weaving and thick threads.
Personally, I would go for either the silk fabric that is/was used in model aeroplanes or fine paper. Both can be stabilised and shaped using diluted white glue or thin lacquer. They then can be painted e.g. with acrylic paints.
Below is an example from my own production (in 1:90 scale):
The sails are put together from individual panels. I gather something similar could be done for your sail and the panels painted in different shades of red (ochre). What is the latest research on Viking-age sails ? I am not up-to-date there, but believe that at some stage diagonal panesl were discussed and re-inforcements with leather stripes.
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Bill Tuttle reacted to BANYAN in Rigging yards with no sails - question
Hi Gif_Haise. I have just had the same issue in my Endeavour build. I rigged the blocks in-situ and intended leaving them unrove as suggested above. However, when I posted my progress photos there were several queries (some p via PM) as to whether I was going to rig the clew, leech and buntlines. After a little bit of research I determined there are two schools of thought on the matter - with and without lines (obvious ) It was pointed out that most of the contemporary models of the period showed the lines fitted with them rove through the blocks with a small overhand knot stopping it from pulling through the block. I have used this approach leaving about 25mm of scale rope dangling. In real life i believe they would have fitted/rove a spike/toggle through the line to prevent the line pulling through when the sails were unbent. I will be posting some photos in my HM Bark Endeavour build log (Kits) of the finished lines later today/early tomorrow if you are interested in seeing what it looks like to assist your decision process.
Your choice though.
cheers
Pat
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Bill Tuttle reacted to michael mott in Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
Larry this comment really made me laugh, because it pretty much mirrors my own world vis a vis the closets, and I basically have all the tools I will ever need, except of course when I find a new tool that I don't really need.
Michael
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from Nirvana in Byrnes Table Saw
Jay,
Thanks, that is exactly what I was planning to do but was not creative enough to think about using a router bearing. Thanks for the help and that idea. That simplifies everything.
I am in the midst of trying to build some of those flexible clamps that Ed Tosti recommended in his book. Have you had any experience with those? I will have to order the LH thread tap and dies and then I am ready to go.
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from Modeler12 in Byrnes Table Saw
Jay,
Thanks, that is exactly what I was planning to do but was not creative enough to think about using a router bearing. Thanks for the help and that idea. That simplifies everything.
I am in the midst of trying to build some of those flexible clamps that Ed Tosti recommended in his book. Have you had any experience with those? I will have to order the LH thread tap and dies and then I am ready to go.
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from mtaylor in Small Wooden Clamps
Richard,
Thanks for the quick reply and help. This is not the exact post I was referring to but is the same concept. It is very helpful.
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from mtaylor in Small Wooden Clamps
Group,
I am ashamed to post this question but I was reviewing some of the MSW posts today and came across a post revealing some beautiful handmade wooden clamps used for holding the frames together. I failed to save this and have been looking for the post as well as the individual who made these. They used thumb nuts and 8-32 brass machine screws, I think, as well as boxwood for the body of the clamp. I have some very small versions of these clamps with brass rods tapped to receive the adjustment screw which were sold years ago.
Can someone help me with this. I would also like to know if they tapped the boxwood portion or added something within the wood. It was not clear in the photo to me.
Thanks
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from mtaylor in Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
Kurt,
Great article, need to review my Shop Notes volumes again. Thanks for posting.
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from Canute in Byrnes Table Saw
Jay,
Thanks, that is exactly what I was planning to do but was not creative enough to think about using a router bearing. Thanks for the help and that idea. That simplifies everything.
I am in the midst of trying to build some of those flexible clamps that Ed Tosti recommended in his book. Have you had any experience with those? I will have to order the LH thread tap and dies and then I am ready to go.
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from Nirvana in Byrnes Table Saw
I like the hold down fixture and need to build one of those for my saw. The splitter is also very nice and simple to make, very easy to make a few of those with different sizes to accommodate different thickness blades. Thanks for the post, Jay.
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from mtaylor in Byrnes Table Saw
Jay,
Thanks, that is exactly what I was planning to do but was not creative enough to think about using a router bearing. Thanks for the help and that idea. That simplifies everything.
I am in the midst of trying to build some of those flexible clamps that Ed Tosti recommended in his book. Have you had any experience with those? I will have to order the LH thread tap and dies and then I am ready to go.
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from mtaylor in Byrnes Table Saw
I like the hold down fixture and need to build one of those for my saw. The splitter is also very nice and simple to make, very easy to make a few of those with different sizes to accommodate different thickness blades. Thanks for the post, Jay.
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from Canute in Small Wooden Clamps
Richard,
Thanks for the quick reply and help. This is not the exact post I was referring to but is the same concept. It is very helpful.
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from Canute in Small Wooden Clamps
Group,
I am ashamed to post this question but I was reviewing some of the MSW posts today and came across a post revealing some beautiful handmade wooden clamps used for holding the frames together. I failed to save this and have been looking for the post as well as the individual who made these. They used thumb nuts and 8-32 brass machine screws, I think, as well as boxwood for the body of the clamp. I have some very small versions of these clamps with brass rods tapped to receive the adjustment screw which were sold years ago.
Can someone help me with this. I would also like to know if they tapped the boxwood portion or added something within the wood. It was not clear in the photo to me.
Thanks
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Bill Tuttle reacted to kurtvd19 in Just curious, does anyone make dado blades for the Byrnes table saw??
You can "stack" slitting blades to come up with the exact saw kerf you want for model work. Thurston sells all sorts of blade widths, just have enough so you can stack the necessary blades to get a kerf equal to the dado you want to cut. For our work the saw has plenty of power to do shallow dados. You would want the wider blades on the outside with the thinner blades sandwiched in between so no worry of the thin blades deflecting or heating up and warping as they are prone to do. Any dado being cut in our model work is not going to be all that wide or deep.
Kurt
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from Canute in Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
Kurt,
Great article, need to review my Shop Notes volumes again. Thanks for posting.
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from Modeler12 in Byrnes Table Saw
I like the hold down fixture and need to build one of those for my saw. The splitter is also very nice and simple to make, very easy to make a few of those with different sizes to accommodate different thickness blades. Thanks for the post, Jay.
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Bill Tuttle reacted to maltbyguy in Knife handle
Hi sorry for the delay in replying
you can fit the blade at any length
I use standard scalpel blades from Swan Morton I find them to me reasonably priced and very sharp
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Bill Tuttle reacted to tlevine in Knife handle
Kurt, in the photo from left to right are #12, #15 and #11 blades. The drop-off angle on the non-cutting side varies by manufacturer. The #12 is also called a tonsil blade (you can guess why).
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Bill Tuttle reacted to kurtvd19 in Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
The method I described for sharpening the blades was printed as a Shop Note (Vol 49.3 - page 176-177). I have attached a PDF of the Shop Note.
The NRG publishes collections of Shop Notes from the Journals. Shop Notes 2 is currently available at the NRG Store on the web site. The original Shop Notes has been out of print for a few years but is being republished soon.
Kurt
SAW BLADE SHARP - P.pdf
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from mtaylor in Willie L Bennett by Jack12477 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:32 Scale - skipjack
Jack,
This is a pretty little boat with great lines. I built one some years ago. It was by first scratch project so I traveled all over the Eastern Shore taking pictures of the Skipjacks still working. This was in the late 70's. I think at that time there were 18 still working. I could not find good plans for the Winder at the time so left that for later and never finished it. Got to get back on that sometime soon. Nice job, good luck, and let me know if I can be of any help. I bought a lot of books and took a lot of pictures during as well as after I finished mine. This may have been mentioned in an earlier post and if so I apologize but Ben Lankfords book WaterCraft A Modeler's Handbook had a lot of valuable information in it.
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from Canute in Willie L Bennett by Jack12477 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:32 Scale - skipjack
Jack,
This is a pretty little boat with great lines. I built one some years ago. It was by first scratch project so I traveled all over the Eastern Shore taking pictures of the Skipjacks still working. This was in the late 70's. I think at that time there were 18 still working. I could not find good plans for the Winder at the time so left that for later and never finished it. Got to get back on that sometime soon. Nice job, good luck, and let me know if I can be of any help. I bought a lot of books and took a lot of pictures during as well as after I finished mine. This may have been mentioned in an earlier post and if so I apologize but Ben Lankfords book WaterCraft A Modeler's Handbook had a lot of valuable information in it.
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Bill Tuttle got a reaction from cog in Willie L Bennett by Jack12477 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:32 Scale - skipjack
Jack,
This is a pretty little boat with great lines. I built one some years ago. It was by first scratch project so I traveled all over the Eastern Shore taking pictures of the Skipjacks still working. This was in the late 70's. I think at that time there were 18 still working. I could not find good plans for the Winder at the time so left that for later and never finished it. Got to get back on that sometime soon. Nice job, good luck, and let me know if I can be of any help. I bought a lot of books and took a lot of pictures during as well as after I finished mine. This may have been mentioned in an earlier post and if so I apologize but Ben Lankfords book WaterCraft A Modeler's Handbook had a lot of valuable information in it.
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Bill Tuttle reacted to Modeler12 in Byrnes Table Saw
Here is my second addition. It is essentially a hold down fixture but uses a ball bearing mounted as shown.
The design came from seeing what another modeler had done to cut thin veneer.
Jim Byrnes also uses this idea for his clear blade guard.
I have cut several pieces this way and it really works very well.
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Bill Tuttle reacted to Modeler12 in Byrnes Table Saw
I am sorry, but I rather have the dull look. It is less glare in my face
In fact I have adapted it to my Ryobi sander and it works great there also. That is a piece of 1/8 inch plywood on the table to give me zero clearance.
But that is not all.
I now have several featherboards that use a 1/2 x 1/8 inch aluminum bar and three 10-32 thumb screws. The one to the right is mounted in a 'tapered' threaded hole. As I tighten that screw it forces the bar against the sides of the slot to lock it in place.
The featherboards are made of 1/8 inch plywood.
I have used this for cutting narrow strips (not too cool when using your fingers). True, I have to readjust the featherboard as I progress cutting more strips from the same piece. But, se la guerre.
BTW magnetic featherboards don't work on aluminum tables, so the only practical way is to use the slots.
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