yvesvidal

I didn't want to do any close up shots of the stern area until I first was able to finish the treenailing and then staining. 
 
 
Also added the lift rope and rings to the gun port lids.

 
 
Finally got around to wiping a thin coat of poly to her walnut bulwarks.  Brings out the rich grain very nicely.  Liking the contrasting mix of colors from deck planking to bulwarks to the rails.

Panels mounted and trimmed out.

Hull painted to water line as suggested by all my mates.....8 coats of diluted acrylic.

The water line landed very nicely just below the gun port lids.  I really liked that.
As you can see, I've got another load of treenailing ahead of me.

Decided to paint all of her rails black....kinda liking the contrast (need some expert commentary on that issue)
 
Not going to do the forward panels for a while as I would like to spend some time on deck fixtures as a change of pace.
First, more treenailing.....lots of 'em. 

Sorry you're having trouble JD.
 
Thanks Michael..yes, sails can be a pain.
 
OK, I think I'm finished the deck and almost ready for some rigging. Can't believe I can see the end of this build already.  Here, are deck pics with all the rigging blocks finished. One particular piece I just did that came out nice was the red/green light stand. It started out as just bright gold. I coated it with wood strips, painted lights red green, and a brown top.
 

 

Hi I am getting started with my Mary Ann from Billing Boat, So here's a picture of how far I've come so far. This is my first model ship I'm building.When I am "only" 28 years I think that I will achieve to become so good at building large ships. My big dream is to build a HMS Victory when I feel I can handle it ... There's gonna built a number of other ships before. Sorry for my English

This morning , after I had my manditory Coffe, I unmasked the Boat finished making the Boom Vang, and put the mast in the Mast Slot ( to see where I am at ) I am very Happy with how the Boat is turning out , I am going to Paint the Cabin Grey , with Red highlights and the Yellow on the bow section. Here is what she Looks like,The Mast and Communications Tower have not been attached to the boat , are in position for the pic's

Today was another very productive day with the Boat ( I am enjoying building this one ) I started by making the spreaders for the mast, I then layed out and installed the eyelets for the stays, I then installed the spreaders , and painted 2 coats of flat black ( I am thinking maybe one more coat) I also painted 2 coats on the Boom, Then I Masked off and shot the final 2 coats of blue on the Hull, ( I am pleased with how it turned out ) When you look at the pics you will see that the bow section has been masked off as well . ( as that Bow section will be Yellow ) Here are the results

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Pride got out of the house for a bit, being displayed at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum's Model Expo.

 
This got me wanting to get something done on her so maybe next time she can actually sail.  One job is finally figuring out how to handle all those over-lapping sails.  For the expo I installed a test set-up in Constellation which, though it needs some adjustment, looks like it'll work.
 
I'm using a large "sail-arm" servo for the main sheet, which will be rigged as shown below to look more prototypical.
 

 
This arm will also move a pair of sheet arms that will handle the rest of the fore-n-aft sails.  When the sail-arm is centered, every thing is sheeted out.  Moving port or starboard will sheet in the main either way, but will only move one sheet-arm, sheeting those sails to that side while leaving the other sheets slack.
 

 
Here's the test rig installed in Constellation
 
 
 
I haven't decided if I'll use an arm or winch servo to handle the squares, but I'm leaning towards a winch, mainly because I have a couple of spares.  I'm also considering putting the main sheet on a separate servo for better balance and control.  I may put all the running stays on that servo as well.

Spars
 
All the spars were made of white pine, since it's been working so well so far.
Rough cut to size, square stock was made 8-sided, etc, etc, to round.
 
 
Gaffs and boom were fitted with jaws made from aircraft plywood and tried for size.
   
 
The boom has a shoulder cut in the end for the ring-tail iron and a bolster that keeps the mains'l clew out-haul held off the boom.
 
 
The main mast was fitted with a saddle and knees for the boom to rest on, after the mast's hoops were loaded on.

 
All the spars got stain and paint, and all the brass was blackened and painted.  The coarse yard got stuns'l boom irons, stuns'l booms, and jack stays.
   
 
Cleats and holes for sheets and the like...

 
and a clew iron for the main boom

 
The yards and boom

I cut paper patterns for the sails and pinned them up on the shop wall above the profile to see how things would look.  It looked pretty darned good to me,  Let's make some masts!

 
I made the masts using the "Bird's Mouth" method.  There's a lot of math and geometry available on DuckWorks if you're interested in trying this system.  My friend Mark, who was building a 12' skiff at my place, made the skiff's 12' mast using this method.  Made from 12 foot 2x4's, it turned out a mast that was extremely light, and incredibly strong.
 
 
In short, Using the formulas for the size mast you want, you cut strips of whatever wood; in my case white cedar scraps left over from making Constellation's masts and spars.  The bird's mouth is cut into the correct face.  I used a V groove bit in a router set up in a table with finger boards everywhere to hold the work down, and against the fence.  It took a little experimentation and playing around, but I eventually got the grove at the right depth.
screen shot from the noisy video of cutting grooves in strips.
 
These strips do not need to be the length of the mast as you can butt them to get the right length.  Just remember to stagger the butts, and not put any beside each other.  The strips are then glued together.  It's best to lay them out in some order of assembly as you do this.  I used Tightbond III liberally, to glue things up.  Take strips from your layout starting at one end of the mast and work toward the other end.  Use rubber bands to hold things together as you go.  You have to work fast because once it's all together you need to make sure it's straight, and you may need to adjust it, which you can't do once the glue sets.
 
 
Once the mast is made up, check it for alignment, fix it, and let it set up.
 
 
The spar is made 8 sided by planing off the corners.  I then made an 8 sided dowel of pine to slide inside the mast at either end.  The bottom one extends about 2" above where the boom jaws will sit, and extends out of the bottom for the step tenon.  The top one about 2" below where the gaff jaws will land and extends out of the top about 1/2" for the cap tenon.  These pieces primarily stiffen the spar from the step to above the deck, and at the doublings.  The mast is shaved to 16 sides, then a rough 32, and sanded, a lot, to get it round where it's supposed to be.
     
 
I made cross-trees and trestle-trees from the wood I used for the bitts and every joint is pinned with brass rod CAed in place.  The mast head at the doublings was squared and hounds glued and pinned with brass rod.  The mast caps were cut from 3/8" plywood.  I figure there's going to be a lot of stress on this area when she's sailing, so made it as strong and light as I could.
 
 
Pride's mast head furniture was all painted flat black, so, so is the model's.  The rest of the mast was stained and then given a coat of matte clear.  The bottom of the masts were painted a cream color, which I hadn't gotten yet.

A set of beams was installed forward of the fin trunk, to hold the battery.  It will lie flat, as low as possible, and be held by Velcro tabs.

 
The focs'le hatch on the real boat was different than the plans, it was much taller with a hinged lid.  I used the same wood used in the other hatch coamings and built it up in three layers, log cabin style.  I had some notion of putting something up here, like an on/off switch, but I doubt that'll happen.  None-the-less, I made a hinged lid and a hole in the subdeck.
 
 

 
In side the cabin hatch, I put in brackets to carry an aircraft plywood shelf for the rudder servo to mount in.  It's held by screws and will be removable for servicing.
 
 
The parts for the prop shaft and motor couplings came in
 
 
Which meant drilling a hole in the stern post for it.  This was done with a long 3/16" bit, over sized so the brass tube "stuffing box" can be adjusted and surrounded by epoxy.  This is yet another thing that ought to have been done to the keel while it could lie flat, before it was placed on the forms.  JB Weld was added inside to ooze into any nooks and crannies the epoxy missed.
 
 
   
 
Another ordered part arrived - a rheostat type speed controller, with forward and reverse.  This is operated by a micro servo, so I made up a mount to handle it.
 
 
It was fitted inside the cabin hatch on a beam that also serves as a stuffing box support,  painted with that red spray paint, and fixed in place.
 
 

 
 

The counter frames went in, showing why I had to trim down the stern post a while back.  An oak block was glued in where the rudder tube would go in, to strengthen this area, and a slightly over sized hole drilled through it and the counter.

 
A brass tube was epoxied in with JB Weld.  A brass rrod taped to the sternpost behind a spacer made sure everything set up in proper alignment.
 
 

 
The rudder was cut from polycarbonate (Plexiglas) and given a brass rod rudder post that was glued and drifted to it with smaller brass rods.

 
A copper plate was cut to size with 4 holes; two for mounting, and two that are tapped for mounting the gudgeon plate.  This plate was inset into the boats heel, epoxied and screwed in place.  This way water can't seep into the plywood keel because every hole in the hull is lined with epoxy.
 
 
The gudgeon plate is attached with brass machine screws and is removable.
 
 
The rudder post slide up through the rudder tube at the counter.  The tiller collar will hold it from falling out, the tube keeps it from sliding further up.  The gudgeon plate holds the heel of the rudder to the hull and serves as the lower hinge point against the forces the rudder will encounter.  Removing the rudder entails removing the gudgeon plate and the tiller, then the rudder drops right out.
 
 
The visible area around the rudder hole was painted black and the counter planked up with bass sheet.  All the wood framing here was painted in epoxy, and each plank was painted with epoxy onit's under side to make sure moisture inside here wouldn't get into the wood.   Later this was primed and transom knees were installed.
 
 
Using bass sheet again, I built the cabin trunk, the visible part that is in essence, a lid.  It's details, molding, skylight, compass box, hatch, etc; were all made from the wood of the Pride's top mast I was given earlier.  Looking at one of my pictures where the cabin can be seen, I think this wood worked out fairly well for this application.  It wasn't strong enough for anything else, like the tiller.
 
 

 
I used that "might-be-mahogany" wood used on the bits to make the hatch coamings.
 
 
I also used it to make the tiller.  You may have noticed there is no space to speak of inside the counter where I could hide control linkages for the steering.  Instead I'll actually be using the tiller to steer the model, so it will have to have some strength.
 

The subdeck's underside will get painted with epoxy which will seal it as well as glue it to the deck beams.  A layer of 1/32" bass strips about 1/4" wide will serve as the deck planking.  It will be died a combination of stains to approximate the color of Prides original decking.  These will be set in slow-cure epoxy when the time comes.
   
 
All that's a ways off yet, as there's still things to be done in the hull before the deck can go on...
 
For instance, the access hatch has to be framed and cut out.  A pair of posts were put in near the mast partners between the deck beams and the keel - these are compression posts and should help prevent deformation of the deck, just in case.
 
 
 
 
 
 
The motor mount frame was painted and the mounting plate was painted with the red spray paint from earlier.  It was then epoxied into the hull.

 
I was volunteering at the Naval Academy Museum model shop and once night one of the other fellas brought in a handful of splinters.  Seems the Pride had her fore-top-mast replaced at Richardson's Yard in Maryland and these pieces came from the old spar.  That means they were on the boat when I was.  Now to figure out how to incorporate them into the model.

 
The bitts were made from some dunnage found on a dock that looks like it may be some sort of mahogany.  It's hard and it matches the color of the originals pretty well.
Note the subdeck is marked with locations of deck objects, such as hatches.  On the access hatch is the scale main hatchway - which obviouslt wouldn't have been large enough for the model.  On the right of the photo is the engine room hatch.  The small rectangle on the left of the deck in a box that the galley stack pokes out of.  The fellow standing there is me, in 1:20 scale.  It's a picture of me from about a year before my time on Pride and serves to show scale in the photos.
The hatchway marked in the right photo is the focs'le hatch.
 

So, once more in go the clamps.  This time, making sure I measure from the right point, I used a different approach.  I laid in two layers of 1/8" thick strips, then installed the deck beams - now recut thinner - butted to the clamp.  Another layer of 1/8" strip was installed between each beam.  Mast partners were installed, then framing for the main cabin and the access hatch.  The access hatch doesn't correspond to any hatch actually on the boat - none of them was large enough at this scale to give me the access inside I needed.
 
 
   
 
The inner cabin trunk is framed from 1/8" plywood that came from a cigar box, or something like that.  This isn't the cabin you'll see, but an inner sleve the outer cabin trunk will slide over, like a box lid.  This will help keep out water.

 
Card stock was used to lay out the deck and make a pattern.  The sub deck was cut from 3/16" luan plywood.  It was kerfed underneath to help it flex in two directions; sheer and camber.
   
 
After giving the top strake a coat of black, I started marking the spar plan with 1:20 scale dimensions in preparation of making the spars.

 
I made a mounting plate for the motor from an electrical box cover plate.  The motor came from an old cordless drill.
 
 
I was getting concerned that a section of bulwark might get broken off by some big clumsy oaf, like me, so I put a rail on to connect it all.  This isn't the finish cap rail, but more of a structural member.  This rail will actually be in two parts.  This part is the inner part mounted flush with the outboard side of the hull.  It's glued and trenailed (wooden toothpicks) into the top of the planking.  An outer part will be applied later, bring the rail to it's correct width.

 
 
 
And some more paint.

With the hull glassed, I began to install the deck clamps.  These were of the same pine used to plank the hull, only 3/8" wide and 1/8" thick.  One later was epoxied to the hull.
The placement of the deck beams was determined based oh hatch locations, mast partners, etc.
While my friend Mark was building his skiff outside the shop, I put some of his leftover epoxy into the bilge of Pride's hull to fill crevasses, seal, and strengthen the garboard area.
   
 
There are things that should be done to the keel while it's still just a flat piece of wood, and before it's a permanent part of the hull.  Cutting the cut-out for the propeller is one such thing.

 
I wasn't sure how I was going to attach the external ballast until I saw some Newfie schooner models as big as Pride that used a simple fin with about 15-20 pounds of lead in a bulb.  Going with the idea, I started building a dagger-board box for the fin to slip in to.  The sides are 3/16 luan plywood, glassed on the inside faces, with a pine separator epoxied on fore and aft.
The remaining portion of the aluminum sheet I cut Constellation's yard trusses from will be the fin.
 
 
This oscillating tool I got from Harbor Freight for $10 made quick work of cutting the hole for the trunk to fit in to.  This, of course, is another thing that should be done to the keel before it's part of the hull.
 
 
Portions of the form at that station became internal braces for the dagger-board trunk.  They would be epoxied in.

 
The trunk was itself epoxied in.  After sanding, some glass cloth was laid over it to fair it into the hull and the keel.  Anything not covered with cloth was painted with resin.

 
The trunk got a cap from a bit of cherry I had around and a motor mount was fashioned from one of the forms.

 
A hole was drilled at the center of the trunk along the keel and a brass tube was epoxied into it.  When it set, I cut the tub flush inside and outside.  A matching hole was drilled in the fin, where a brass machine screw and nut would hold the fin to the boat.  The tube protects and seals the end grain of the trunks plywood where the screw will go through.
 
 
I began to fit the deck beams, but these seem thicker than they need to be.  They're like this on Constellation, but there's a lot more head-room inside Constellation compared to Pride where space is at a premium.

Watching several amazing POF builds, decided to start all over and build a POF Mayflower.....slightly larger.
Making really good progress....here's my first posting.
Dave

Thanks for the likes, it's always good to hear that others enjoy ones work 
 
The head:

I guess the following pictures are self explaing. so not much description is required:
 

 

 

 
When gluing these vertical timbers on to the brackets at this stage I was a little bit too optimistic, most of them broke later on when I was working on the model and I had to use a different approach:
 

 
The most forward of the vertical supports of the head and the starboard side planking of the head.
 

 
The vertical support (with it's knee) and the side planking will be glued on and the vertical timbers added afterwards. 
The outside of the planking has been stained and painted prior to gluing on to the model. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Klaus

Today, was another day of alot of Sanding and Fairing. I then masked off an shot 3 coats of Blue, before the power went out ,( we had a thunder storm this afternoon )  next I will sand the hull to 800 grit wet sandpaper and shoot 2 more coats of Blue. Before I do that I will Install all the thru Deck Fittings , and finish Painting the Deck , I also sprayed 2 coats of flat Black on the Comunications Tower and Fising weight ( I dont know why ) Here are the results after another great day with the Boat

Lately, I have been painting the second figure that will be placed on my ship.  It's Captain Job and he will soon be found on the bridge. I think it's successful and I've at least had fun painting.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Greetings and the next time more building and painting

Hello people   Today continued with the factory of the bulwark. The legs must be made and aligned and that was lots of work. I have glued the feet  to the deck with a mould  (after I had measured out where to stand, of course) and then the horizontal pipes fitted.
Because Cyanoacrylaat-glue adheres poorly on brass I have every bonding later touched with a bit of epoxy glue.

It looks nice, and things are properly aligned. The building is now ready apart from some minor things, and so we can start painting.


All fifteen ready




alles vast.

 
Sorry no further pictures here. Here is the epoxy I use


The almost ready-pictures









 
Thanks for all the reply's This evening I hope to answer some reply's (with a little help from google-translate)

No, I didn't install sails yet, but I did make one from the preprinted cloth that came with the kit. It was bothering me so much how it would come out. I said and shown earlier how the reef lines were preprinted dark brown dashes on the cloth. I hate that they did that! So, I started seweing over them with the same color thread, but hard for my amateur sewing on a machine to stay completely on the line, plus look at the bottom half that I started, even if it was perfect, the dark brown makes this look like Yankees pinstripe uniforms. I wish the only thing the printed was the numbers/letters J/K4, because I like that. I even went as fas as to hem the edges and paste it on the wall so I could hold the boat up to it to get a good feel for how the sail would look.
 
Sorry, but the reef lines should be just an off white, not dark brown. So, I'm going to just get some new material and cut it and just hem it, that's how I see other models, I'll have to do without the boat number being on it. I see even the box of the kit doesn't use this.
 
You can't zoom in on here to see the detail of why I don't like it.
 

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