Sjors

Thanks very much everyone for all the kind words and "likes".
 
Jeff got back to me and confirmed that my observations about errors in the drawings were correct, and also confirmed that my corrections were….correct.
 
Deck Beams
 
I ummed and ahhed about the best way to prepare the Deck Beams with all of their various notches for receiving carlings, trimmer beams, beam arms etc. I then made the happy discovery that I possessed end mill cutters to exactly match these various sizes, so I decided to do as much of this work as possible on the mill in order to provide the maximum degree of accuracy and consistency.  In order to do that, I needed to start with beam blanks that retained a “square” face for use as a reference plane for the milling work. So blanks were prepared to match each beam location, with just the ends angled to match the angle of the hull sides (10 degrees as it happens).  Here are the beam blanks cut to size for each location and with a centre line marked for further reference:
 

 
I forgot to take pictures of the next stage, but this consisted of sticking the beam patterns onto the fore and aft faces of the beam blanks, using the centreline and bottom edge as a common reference.  The tops of the beam blanks were then cut down in height, using the mill, to align with the top of the pattern, while maintaining a parallel face with the bottoms.
 
By further happy coincidence, or clever design by Jeff, all of the notches, regardless of depth (top to bottom), were set back a common distance into the beams (fore to aft, or aft to fore). By milling the notches with the blanks lying on their sides, I could then use a common depth of cut for all milling operations, and would therefore only have to be concerned with the “length” of the cut.  That depth happened to be 1.5 mm. The length of cut varied with the size of timber to be accommodated, and was measured off the plans in imperial units (eg 7/32”) and then converted to decimal millimetres (eg 5.56mm) for application on the mill.  It sounds complex, but was actually pretty easy.
 
Once all of the milling was completed, the beams had their respective curvature applied while the paper patterns were still in place, using a combination of the spindle sander and disc sander to achieve the required curves.  Here is what the beams looked like after all of these operations were completed and the residual paper patterns were removed:
 

 

 
You can see in these photos, that the milling process leaves a rounded end.  These had to be cleaned up and squared off using a chisel, which again seemed more daunting than it was in practice to achieve.  The only real difficulty was in achieving the 45 degree angled notches to take the angled carlings that will eventually support the outside of the Mortar Pit.  To achieve these, I used the mill to cut the “straight” bit in the middle, to provide a reference plane, and then completed the rest with a chisel.  It was the 45 degree undercut that was particularly difficult – I’m sure there is an easier way than the method I used, but we got there in the end, and with no feeding of the scrap bin along the way! Here is a picture of the cleaned up joints:
 

 
And finally, here is a picture of the completed beams dry-fitted in place.  The “Trimmer Beams”, which will surround the Mortar Pit, are sitting loosely on top of the main deck beams.  These will be trimmed to final length once the deck beams are permanently affixed.  You can see in the photo that the centre lines of the beams seem to line up quite well, so the installation of the various carlings etc, should be relatively easy.
 

 
Next up, cutting the various Hanging Knees, Lodging Knees, Beam Arms, and Carlings – all of which will also need to be notched.  Progress may very well slow down from here as my period of convalescent leave ends this week and its back to work next week.

thanks Sjors.........I'm sure there are some with the munchies right about now    glad to have you following along
 
you are right Nenad.........I have been chained to this computer long enough!   all my logs are written {except for the Titanic...I still have to start it},  all the gallery pictures are posted.........it's time I got around to some playtime     I have a couple of pictures,  but I will compile a few more before I update again.

So here you are !!!!!!
 
The door was open so I drop inn.
Nice to see an BIG plastic build.....
No bashing this time ???
And you don't mind that I put a popcorn machine in the corner.
I just LOVE popcorn !
 
Sjors

So here you are !!!!!!
 
The door was open so I drop inn.
Nice to see an BIG plastic build.....
No bashing this time ???
And you don't mind that I put a popcorn machine in the corner.
I just LOVE popcorn !
 
Sjors

So here you are !!!!!!
 
The door was open so I drop inn.
Nice to see an BIG plastic build.....
No bashing this time ???
And you don't mind that I put a popcorn machine in the corner.
I just LOVE popcorn !
 
Sjors

So here you are !!!!!!
 
The door was open so I drop inn.
Nice to see an BIG plastic build.....
No bashing this time ???
And you don't mind that I put a popcorn machine in the corner.
I just LOVE popcorn !
 
Sjors

Hi Rich,
 
I'm using that Tamiya tape all the time !
You have different sizes of it.
When you put it on the surface, go with a finger over it and you will have no bleed paint anymore (Don't know how to say it another way )
Your work so far is just great !
 
Sjors

So here you are !!!!!!
 
The door was open so I drop inn.
Nice to see an BIG plastic build.....
No bashing this time ???
And you don't mind that I put a popcorn machine in the corner.
I just LOVE popcorn !
 
Sjors

(A page out of Sjor's book) pfffffffffft!! --I was only kidding about the sinking diorama! 

WOW!  you two are fast!     well......welcome!   no....no master.......please.......I haven't touched any REAL plastic since 2009!  I've just begun to pick at it a little....already found a few areas that I can play with.   so make yourselves at home and I hope I can make it interesting enough for you. 
 
I did do one more thing,  beyond what I've done so far.  I painted all the deck areas that will show.   I used a flat deck tan for this......I'd try to texture it,  but the way the bow and stern panels look,  I might be too afraid to botch it up {gathering in the edges and stuff}.
 

 
I'll get to do more once I get settled in 
 
 

Very nice Mobbsie !!!
Your skills improved by the day   
Some need two years for a scratch build and you are doing it in one weekend.......  
 
Sjors

I received this kit for Christmas from my admiral......she was so bummed out,  that it wasn't the Billing's Titanic.  I have never built an academy kit before......I was impressed with how the kit looks.   there is quite a bit of detail to it,  and I really like the size......the hull is 26 1/2 inches long.  I have to be brief....I am to grill supper.   it has been an off the wall busy day!
 

 
  I will start with an overall view of the parts......there are so many small parts.......I really have been away from plastic for quite a while.  I had to do this on the dining room table,  so there may be some bad lighting issues.
 

 

 
the instructions don't look too bad,  but since I plan to do some painting,  I think it best to hold off on the rigging until the painting is done.  {I'm sure they mean well}   I'm not too keen on the chrome....a few of the parts pertain to the stand,  but the name plaque,  props,  and anchors will need to be stripped.  I use brake fluid for the process and a good stiff brush.
 

 
there are a few water slide decals.......jury's still out on the flags.......they are peel and stick.   I neglected to mention that the parts are done in colored plastic.  for those who don't do much painting,  this kit would be ideal........reminds me of the larger scale Revell kit from the past.  here are all the white sprues.
 

 

 

 
the deck parts and sprue is done in a tan color....the deck areas will need to be painted a flat tan.  sorry.....I have the sprue panel upside down.
 

 
there is a black sprue panel,  a couple brown sprue panels,  and the funnel parts are done in an orange / yellow color.
 

 

 
there is a pack of rigging thread tucked in the sleeve of the stand base.   there are plastic ratlines in the kit as well....I may do away with them,  as well as throw another size rigging thread in the mix.  I'm pretty sure that not all the rigging is the same size.  the hull is an interesting part........the bottom paint has already been done.  I'll go into it more in my next post.
 

 
as the build progresses,  you'll see the detail that is molded into this kit.   it is a pretty nice kit......but it's going to be a nightmare to paint the detail on the bow and stern panels.  personally,  they might have done better to increase the part count,  instead of molding the detail into these parts.   that of course would alter the skill level.......and the market span as well.   I just hope I haven't lost my knack in painting small detail 

Hi Guys
 
It's update time again.
 
It's been a while since I worked on the Cross Section due mainly to working on the Bawley, that's completed now so it's back to the main build.
 
I was / am playing catch-up to Grant and so have been a bit busy in the shipyard.
 
The Mortar Pit Support Standards are made, fitted and have been given a coat of Poly, at the same time I made the Centre Line Stanchions, these were made from 1/4" x 1/4" Walnut, these were turned on my lathe. I only had to make three but it took me eight attempts to do it ( need more practice ). These have now been given a coat of Poly and have been dry fitted.
 
It's now time to tackle the Upper Deck Beams, I really was not looking forward to doing these as I know for sure they will show up my extremely poor wood working skills.
With Beams cut out and sanded down on the drum and disc sanders the top template was lined up and pressed into place, the notches then had to be cut out, instead of milling the cut-outs I used a sharp blade to cut the outer edge of the notch then used a home made chisel and 3mm chisel to remove the unwanted wood, this for is the best way because I have little faith in my drill stand, I don't think I will get the accuracy that is needed, Beams 1, 2 and 3 have so far been made and are dry fitted.
 
I did receive a phone call on Friday evening from my Granddaughter asking if I can make her a Pirate Ship, it doesn't have to be very big but it needs to float and be robust, and can you have it ready to be taken to school on Monday, don't panic.
This request was met fully and you will see the result, I was told when she came to take it that weights were going to be placed on it to see how much it would take before it either capsized or sank, wish I had know before I started it.
 
I must thank Grant at this stage for pointing out some errors in the plans, these errors have been validated and corrections being made, thanks mate.
 
Pictures
 
The Black Pig, Captain Pugwash's ship

 
Pit Support Standards

 

 
2 of the 3 Stanchions dry fitted

 

 
The 3 Beams are dry fitted and should eventually match up with other Beams

 

 
So that's where I am guys, Beam building continues.
 
Any an all remarks and comments are welcome as usual.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 

Hi Rich,
 
I'm using that Tamiya tape all the time !
You have different sizes of it.
When you put it on the surface, go with a finger over it and you will have no bleed paint anymore (Don't know how to say it another way )
Your work so far is just great !
 
Sjors

Prepare the gun ports, and adjusting the board




 
cutting extra board

Have just a few time to work, but this is:

 
some details





 
and result after glueing

Thanks guys!
 
Update
Here another small update. A while ago I did some work on the cannon's. I almost completed half of the cannons, but I saw that I hadn't posted the photo's of it yet. So here they are:

 

 

 

 
And here some photo's of the ship itself. I did finish the gun ports on the left side, now all I have to do is the right side  :

 

 

 

Hello All, Thanks for the comments and Likes, as always very much appreciated. 
 
​Well as the build continues>
I had a few problems with keeping the lines on the hull straight, ( too what i was looking for) I get paper tape form the local store. and was getting a lot of bleeding though the tape, after searching the net, I found a few references to the Tamiya tape, I found it in the local hobbies store. Can only give it a go, the results were very high, a very small bit of bleeding. Nothing to bad.
 
~ Not sure if at this stage to varnish with mat clear?  oh far to much to think about today....

Late for the party but you did a hell of a job Popeye !
 
Something to be proud off !!!!!!!
I enjoy every post of your build just as the other 100 builds  before .......  
 
Sjors

Late for the party but you did a hell of a job Popeye !
 
Something to be proud off !!!!!!!
I enjoy every post of your build just as the other 100 builds  before .......  
 
Sjors

Late for the party but you did a hell of a job Popeye !
 
Something to be proud off !!!!!!!
I enjoy every post of your build just as the other 100 builds  before .......  
 
Sjors

Late for the party but you did a hell of a job Popeye !
 
Something to be proud off !!!!!!!
I enjoy every post of your build just as the other 100 builds  before .......  
 
Sjors

I want to say something that makes sense......but I just keep my mouth and enjoy     
Very nice update Augie !!!!!!
 
( note for myself.....pear for the deck ! )
 
Sjors

Late for the party but you did a hell of a job Popeye !
 
Something to be proud off !!!!!!!
I enjoy every post of your build just as the other 100 builds  before .......  
 
Sjors

Late for the party but you did a hell of a job Popeye !
 
Something to be proud off !!!!!!!
I enjoy every post of your build just as the other 100 builds  before .......  
 
Sjors