Jim Lad
-
Posts
8,275 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Jim Lad
-
-
Floyd, the Stag's windlass design is a little unusual, but here are a couple of crops from the original plan.
John
-
Nice to see her heading in the right direction now, Pat.
John
-
Cheers, Popeye. I promise I'll check my camera batteries before going to the museum next time!
John
-
Jay,
In order to more easily get the correct tension on the running rigging, attaching to the yards and sails first is probably best. I know it can be difficult reaching belaying points, but that's what we get for building to scale instead of full size!
John
-
This contemporary illustration might be helpful, Brian.
John
- kenr, lb0190, jdbradford and 7 others
-
10
-
Nice to see the Fly back again, Chris!
John
-
Jay,
I find that it's usually better to have as much as possible rigged before you actually attach the spars to the model. When the yard is off the model it's much easier to manipulate to get all the little fittings properly attached.
John
-
Michael,
It's your own fault for working at such a large scale. If you worked at 1:96 a lot of that detail would be invisible!
John
-
The answer may be - it depends!
If you're starting with a square billet of wood, then you can mark the taper out and plane down to the taper first, then when you round your spar the taper is already worked into it.
If you're starting with a round dowel then, assuming you don't have a lathe, many people chuck the dowel in a drill press or a hand held electric driss that has been clamped in a fixed place and then use files and sandpaper to taper the rotating dowel.
John
-
Michael,
Your block with the 'hard' eye strop is much better! Usually, the seizing went all the way around the thimble.
John
-
Nice clothespegs, Håkan!
John
-
-
Sarah,
I've made that type of spurling pipe in the past from brass tube. Heat the tube to red heat and allow it to cool in order to anneal it; put a piece of wire of roughly the inside diameter of the tube up inside it to stop it from kinking and then bend it over 90 degrees and cut off to length. If you do it that way you can also leave a bit of length on one end of it to put into the deck.
John
-
Michael,
Stropped blocks usually had a thimble in the eye, and the strop around the thimble was usually served, as well.
Looking at your photo of the stropped block, it looks like the rope of the strop has become partially unlaid in the process, which is what's making it look odd.
John
-
Thanks folks. If we don't all get washed away in this latest East Coast rain depression, I'll try and get back to work!
John
-
Hey - it's nice to see you back, mate! Looking forward to seeing your trawler again!
John
-
Ricky,
The lesson is: - use all the information you can lay your hands on, and not just the instruction book!
John
-
Come on, Håkan, pictures, man, pictures!
John
-
Sarah,
I found some photos that might help you.
1. Bollards to the left of this photo of a preserved trawler in the U.K.
2. A coaling scuttle on the same trawler
3. A photo off the web of a small spurling pipe (for the anchor shain) of the type shown on your plan.
John
- mtaylor and aviaamator
-
2
-
Beautiful work on that block, Michael!
John
-
All ready for the lobsters, Popeye!
John
-
Nice to see your build back, Sumner!
John
-
Dale,
The Stag is actually carvel built. Although a lot of early cutters were clinker hulled, the plans for the Stag show her very clearly as being carvel.
In theory, the difference between a cutter and a sloop (bearing in mind that in the 18th century a sloop could also be a small three masted ship) was that the cutter had a running bowsprit while the sloop had a fixed bowsprit, however in practice the terms seem to have been used rather loosely.
Falconer (Marine Dictionary 1780) lists a cutter as a sloop rigged vessel used in the south of England by smugglers and by the customs service.
John
-
Thank you, gentlemen!
John
Our Emblem ®
HMB Endeavour by BANYAN - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - circa 1768
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Posted
Pat,
I didn't think that AOTS and the replica would have differed very much, but I'd go with either one of those rather than the kit plans. If you need any photos of particular parts of the replica just yell - she's at home in the museum at the moment.
John