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The running rigging has been completed (bottom photo) on the main and mizzen masts which are identical to the foremast from the previous post except for the mizzen sheet which is configured with heavier blocks and bitts for the spanker's large sail displacement (top photo). I failed to mention that the main deck furniture has been affixed in its place per the sail plan as each masts' entire rigging from the forward companionway back to the main cabin has been completed. There remains only the ships' boats flags, pennants and rope coils to be done before Atlantic is off the blocks.

Thanks Tom
There was considerable damage that I didn't want to just "jury" rig....my audience will be me and I will do it as right as I can.  I know there is a point of overkill and I won't go there, but, I will do it right.  With the rigging there, there was no way to clean it the way it needed cleaned.
I have spent a few hours (while watching my Chiefs loose) dismantling the rigging.  
Why is the steering wheel outside the upper deck, never seen this on any pictures?
Thanks for your input, all these people are awesome.  I will take everyone's advice, on the search input of "Victory" or "Restoration".
Here are a couple of pictures......PLEASE advise me as you see fit...
Thanks and Happy New Year Sir

Thanks TBlack.....Army 6 years as Gunner/Crewchief on Hueys, jumped to Airforce for another 18 as Crewchief/Flightchief.
Although my audience will be mainly me, I don't do things halfway, as a dirt Late model crewchief, I built and raced my own drag car, granddad to 10.......I just like doing things right....BUT, I understand overkill.
There was quite a few things broken and the gun deck was filthy after how ever many years sitting in the detached garage BEFORE my son rented the house in Ottawa Canada.
This WILL be a big job, but, being retired and if the grandkids don't bother me with projects, I can take my time.
 
Also.......I have not ever seen the steering wheel OUTSIDE the upper deck, isn't it supposed to be under?

Rigging a three masted square rigged ship is a project in and of itself.  The photos that you have posted indicate that whoever built the model did a decent job building the hull.
 
I would, therefore, suggest that you strip the model down to the hull.  Carefully save masts, yards, blocks, deadeyes, etc.  Do not remove any of these items securely attached to the hull.  Clean the hull, saliva and Qtips, repair any damage and rerig.  You will need new rigging line.
 
You will also need a good reference.  Longridge’s The Anatomy of Nelson’s Ships has some good isometric drawings of rigging.
 
Roger
 
 

My son found this HMS Victory ship (identified by tlevine as a 1:96 Mantua model) in his garage in Ottawa Canada about 6 years ago in bad disarray.  I have been researching a lot about the HMS Victory and with my plastic modeling background (since 1967(ish)) this is a super challenge for me.  I am a woodworker, welder, race car builder, former fighter jet crew chief.....like to add wood model ship builder on my resume.
I have always wanted to build one......all that said, in my research, i have tried to untangle this rat's nest and reconstruct the mast and put this back together......but, I've also considered taking it down to the deck and starting from there...,...may i get your opinion about this? I also believe that I put will make it easier to clean and detail the deck.   There are pieces missing, parts disconnected, many issues.
A few pictures to view......please let me know, try to piece it back, or take it down to the deck?
 
Ps......can you also tell me a good book or source on rigging this.
 
Thanks and Happy New Year
Msgt Ray Parker (retired)
Wichita KS

Forgot to show the three ships line abreast
 

So finally she is finished !
 
In
 

 
Between her sister ships Agamemnon and Snake.  Since all 1:64 scale can appreciate their size and how they would have appeared back in the day.
 
So for my next project in the new year: While I await the Amati !:64 Victory and Vanguard's latest frigate in development.
 

 
 
 

Lower shrouds done, moving along. I find ratline making to be somewhat relaxing

Yards now done and have started the shrouds
 

Finally finished the ship's boats. Will start on the masts tomorrow.
 

Hello everyone and greetings from Bulgaria! 🙂
 
    I'm really happy to be part of this huge community and for me will be a pleasure to share with you my first ever build log. Actually, I am a total beginner in this new hobby and I don't now anything about ships terminology and building techniques. In the past I've solved a lot of jigsaw puzzles (one of my other hobbies), LEGO and UGears kits, but I think it's time for something more difficult and time consuming. This new journey will be very challenging, but also interesting for me. Surely I will learn many new things and hope this won't be my first and last ship model.
    But enough talking about me, let's go to the actual build log:

    Initially I was decided to buy something huge and more difficult, with many sails and ropes, but after several days of research I found this great forum and read a few of the beginner topics. Now I am supper happy that I didn't make such a stupid mistake to buy an impossible (for me) ship model kit. So I chose the OcCre's beginner kit - Polaris. As I mentioned I am a total beginner, that's why I ordered bunch of tools with the kit (hope that's almost everything I need for the build).


 
    After I've sorted all of the wooden parts and I've started assembling the bulkheads to the false keel. One thing that I noticed during sanding, is that the false keel is a little bend. Maybe this won't be noticeable after the deck is mounted?



    For this reason I used two big clamps to keep the false keel straight when gluing the bulkheads:
 


    To keep the bulkheads in 90 degrees angle I used small metal plates (I saw this technique in another Polaris log). I could say this method was very helpful, because it wasn't necessary to hold each part with hands till the glue is completely dry:



    And this is the final result, again you can see the slight bend of the false keel:


 


    Next will be the decking. I plan to start it in the coming days. Unfortunately I don't have enough time to build after work and most of the progress will be done during weekends. But anyway, it's more important to me to build it well, rather than fast. 🙂

Some final upper deck details. It's really rewarding starting to see what was just a few skeleton parts and paints start to look like a real detailed ship. With the cannons all fixed in place I had the fiddly task of tying each one down with the correct ropework, and then had the little jobs like the stairways, classic HMS Victory buckets and binnacle, and a couple of classic naval barrels tied down to the deck. 
 
We're now reaching the final stage of the hull section before we move on to the masts. Left to do are the canon port doors and a few little details. Stay tuned for more! 

Rudder time! After a fiddly time with the rudder fixings and covering up a few messy super glue marks it slotted right in to place. With the addition of some hooks and chain the hull is now officially complete!

Not been around for a while but I recently bought a new ship kit to keep me occupied over Christmas (no doubt a lot longer than that). I need a plank cutter for making multiple repeat 90 degree cuts. Yes I know I could have bought one, but I figured I would make use of my other hobby and 3D print one and thought people here might like to see it.
 
It takes a Swann Morton scalpel blade and lets me do any angle between 45 and 90 with adjustable/removeable fences to make repeat cuts.
 
This is the first version and already thinking about changes to improve it. Probably change it to use standard double edged razor blades among other things.
 

Some more work on the yards, boom en gaff. Quite a few pictures tyaken from different angles and before and after painting. Please indulge me.
 
Spritsail and spritsail topsail yard:
 

 

 

 

 
Fore yard, fore topmast yard and fore topgallant yard
 

 

Snatch block on fore topmast yard:
 

 

 

 
Main yard, main topmast yard and main topgallant yard:
 

 

 
Snatch block and sheave on the mail topmast yard:
 

 

 

 
Mizzen mast: driver gaff, driver boom, crossjack yard, mizzen topmast yard and mizzen topgallant yard.
 

 

 
Sheave towards the end of the driver boom:
 

 

 

 
Mizzen mast almost done.

Nice mast details Paul.  Sometimes it is very frustrating when looking for details and you end up finding conflicting  answers and you never know which is the right one.  You end up with more questions than answers. The only thing I can say is that when I visited the Victory at Portsmouth the Mizzen mast had no rubbing paunch on it.
 
If you enlarge this photo that I had taken, you will notice that there is a rubbing paunch on the fore and main mast but there isn't any on the Mizzen mast.  If there was one and at some time it had been removed I wouldn't know.  In my build I decided to leave it without the rubbing paunch. 

 
Robert

very nice indeed Paul, i have put all my Victory books away for now, so i dont know if Longridge had a answer to your question

Thank for the replies, Ted and Kevin.
I think you're right Ted. 
Longridge says "no rubbing paunch on the mizzen mast", and I think he's right, as far as the present built shows, which Robert demonstrated so beautifully.
I am waiting for 1x1mm styrene, so I decided to do the yards and booms.
Got myself the cheapest (and loudest) lathe available, but with ear protection and patience I got the job done.
 
 
Some yards and booms still have a thick end, to connect it to the lathe. I will leave that until painted, or remove it if it's in the way.

Getting caught up on the whale boats.

Ron, I mounted the boats on the davits ready to be launched. The rudder is pulled up on the side. This is how they would have  been on the whaling grounds. Sorry about the rework, but I understand details are important. 👍

1 step forward 5 steps backwards😫.  this is what happens when one fails to make careful measurements.  Had to rip out the guts and start over. The stern is more or less correct.  Some more detail needs to be added.  Would the whale boats have been hung on the davits with the tiller and rudder in place?

Whale boat progress. 

Here are 4 whale boats at various stages of completion. 

This will be my second model. I built the Lowell Grand Banks Dory First. I have not built any models in many years and wanted to start with something simple. The instructions for the Dory were great. i hope it goes as well for the Pram.
 

 
 
 
 
Every thing was present on an inventory of the Kit.  It was a bit difficult sanding the bevels on the different edges (faces? or some other term I don't know)  of the bow transom. The pictures in the manual show the transom being sanded with a big fat sanding stick. That did not work so well as each edge is pretty small. I made some thin ones-- and that worked much better. The scribed  lines are thin and the edges are pretty small. I found it much easier to see what I was doing with some head mounted magnifiers that were left over from soldering surface mount electronic components in the past. These things are  are my new best friends!
 
 
 
 
 
 Building the board for the molds was straight forward. The tabs on them need a bit of sanding to be fully seated int the slots. 
 
 
 
I tried to use steam to bend the keel plank but it did not seem to work.  I am not sure how long you hold the plank  over the steam to get it to bend. The manual says its possible to use a thermostatically controlled soldering iron. I have one of those but was not sure how hot it should be and I was afraid to use it. I finally  used the same technique that worked well on the Dory and just soaked it in hot water for 5 minutes and used rubber bands to gently bend the plank  to the molds.  I am going to let it dry out and rest overnight. 
 

 
Apologies for my photography, and any mistakes uploading the images, This is my first time trying this and I'm not sure I am doing it correctly
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Some progress on the rigging.
 

In this session I'm making some fiddle blocks. Here are the parts made with the laser from 1/32 cherry.
I borrowed the build method from Chuck..  I really like the blocks Chuck makes, but if I can make them myself, I can save a little expense, particularly when I mess up one or more trying to finish them.

Here are the pieces glued up.
 

 
The little tab is handy for holding it while finishing it up..  The cherry doesn't finish as fine as boxwood, but I like the color of the cherry and
it's really my go-to wood for this project.
 

 
Here is one of the backstays with the fiddle tackle.  Cheerful builders will find this familiar looking.
 

 
Close up of one of the fiddles..
 
Thanks for looking in..