captainbob

Got a start on the boiler deck. As you can see I decided to have the curtains on the doors and widows red. I considered blue,purple and pearl. but decided to stick with the red I had used previously.
I now have to finish with the walls and then have figure how much lightinh will be required.

I have continued to make slow progress. I can't believe how big this is. I should have kept to the 1/8" scale instead of the 1/4". I am glad I had a lot of lumber left from previous work. Anyway here are a couple pics.
 
The first shows the boiler deck planking complete and the false deck for the cabin area with the  lights on.The second shows the rough wiring
 
 

Hello again, finally!
 
I have been all over the state this past 5 months.  After our son's death, my wife's condition went south.  She has been doing dialysis in hospice at our daughter's since December.  She just got cleared to go to twice a week which will allow her to come home at least some of the time.  I'm getting the house all spruced up for her return this next weekend.  I have actually been able to get some work done on the shop to get it towards functional for the first time since we moved here 21 years ago. 
 
I now hope to be mentally able to work on my new ship for a change.  I am leaving Meridea for now until I can get some framing done on this America Schooner.  I am fairing the stations to fit the 1/4" scale and then I will measure the points for a fair frame at each frame position using strips at each elevation line.  That will give me an edge of frame line which I can use to develop each frame.  I will use CAD to develop my frame patterns, but only in 2D, since I could not get my mind around using 3D.  Thank you anyway, Ron, for trying to help me.  I couldn't retain the "how-to" even though I managed to get the stations positioned fairly close in a straight time run.   Once I got that far, when I tried to go back to it, I could not even remember how I got it to where it was.  I guess I'm stuck with using 2D.

Hello everyone
 
Many thanks for all of your comments and feedback; all of which are gratefully accepted.
 
Majellan's finished!  The final photos are as attached.
 
All the best and thanks for following along!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

thanks gents.....and those who hit the like button.   it was good to spend some quality time at the computer again..........even more to do a bit of tinkering     no real progress as of yet,  but I'm working on it.   after reading the suggestion Michael gave me,  I set up some of those shackles in my vise.........then I went out to get my propane torch.   sadly,  the bottle must have been low enough,  and the cold of winter robbed the rest of it..........the bottle was empty.   I'm shoot'in for a trip to Wal-Mart or some place to get a new bottle.........could've sworn I had one on hand.
 
I'll see what I can come up with today  

Hi everyone.
 
Just a quick update - I'm still working on Shadow's Lower Deck's accommodation.  Still at an early stage, though.
 
Have a great Friday and impending weekend!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Part 4 – The Keelson – cont’d


 
I should have mentioned wood selection in the prior post.  Kathryn has a mixture of oak and pine, with the oak being used primarily in structural components.  The HAER documentation does a good job of identifying the type of wood used for each component.  I’m using madrone (very similar to pear) for the components made of oak, and castello for the pine components.  Madrone normally is fairly pink, like pear, but my current stock of madrone is much paler than what I’ve used in the past.


 
The centerboard slot is cut through both the keelson and the keel, so the first task was to add the keel in the area of the centerboard slot.


 
The oak keel is very thin from the bow through the area of the centerboard slot – only 3” thick.  Since the thickness is consistent in this area a single piece could be milled.  The following photo shows this keel piece being glued in place.


 

 

The milling cutter would not mill the entire depth of the slot from the top of the keelson – the keelson would need to be flipped for completion of the slot.  Pilot holes were drilled through the keelson at each end of the slot location – this enabled proper location of the slot when the keelson was flipped.


 
The following photo shows the centerboard slot being milled.


 


The mast step in Kathryn is actually a longitudinal mortise, so this was also milled at this time.  The following photo of the completed keelson shows the centerboard slot and the mortise for the mast step.


 

 

In the interest of full disclosure, I need to admit that I cut the centerboard slot too far forward after misreading one of the various marks I had made on the keelson.  The end of the centerboard slot was in the proper place, so this was easily corrected by inserting a small plug in the forward end of the slot – as seen in the following photo.


 

 

Kathryn’s bow consists of an inner stem, and outer stem, and the cutwater.  All of these components will be made of oak.  The inner stem sits on the keelson, and is supported by a stem knee.


 
The inner stem needed to be shaped so that it inclines at the same angle as the forward edge of the keelson.  I was also concerned about the inner stem being sufficiently secure, so a tenon was formed on the stem and a corresponding mortise was cut in the keelson, as shown in the following photos.


 
 

 

I was also concerned about attaching the outer stem, which will lie against the inner stem, so 2 pilot holes were drilled in the inner stem for aligning the outer stem in a later step.  These holes needed to be fairly horizontal, so the inner stem was held in the milling vise at the approximate angle of installation.  A centering drill was used to assist in drilling at that angle.


 

 

Once the centering drill started the hole, a #60 drill was used to complete the drilling.


 
 

 

The setup for gluing the inner stem to the keelson was a little unusual, since it was necessary to ensure that the inner stem and the forward face of the keelson stayed in the proper alignment.  A parallel bar was set in a vice for this alignment, and the keelson/stem knee combination was aligned with the bar.  A square was also used to ensure that the stem knee stayed vertical on the keelson.  The clamping setup can be seen in the following photo.


 

 

The following photo shows the keelson with the inner stem knee installed.


 

 


 
The next work will include the installation of the stem knee and completion of the keel assembly.


 

Whilst waiting for some supplies to arrive, I got to work on the pilot house. The house sits on a raised base and that was the first order of business.
 
Here is how I made the base. I made it this way to be able to more easily and in the round up of the bulkhead frame tops into the bottom of the base.
 
Russ 

Dave, Up next is the SS Mariefred a little passenger boat, possibly a ferry but nothing says so, that operated between Stockholm and Mariefred in Sweden.
 
Bob

Thanks Popeye and I still have window film left, Thanks.
Thanks Lawrence, They were fun to build except, as always, during a build I get thinking of the next build and I have to force myself to finish this first. 
My next build will be the SS Mariefred.  I got good drawings from the museum.  I should apologize to them.  The first set of drawings were just off the web and not from the museum that holds the drawings.  
Hope to see you all soon at the new build.
 
Bob

Now that I know so many of my audience are what I consider master builders, I'll need to up my game.
 
Thank you all for the likes and praise. 
 
Bob

At the lower right side of your entry it says, "like this".  How could anyone not like this?   She's well done and beautiful.
 
Bob

So much detail in such a small space.  The funnels are great.
 
Bob

From four simple tubes and a few small pieces, comes such beauty.  Well done.
 
Bob

There was no forced air air conditioning in those days, so they needed all the vents, and if there were an electric fan all the better.
 
Bob

At the lower right side of your entry it says, "like this".  How could anyone not like this?   She's well done and beautiful.
 
Bob

She's looking good, John.  Such a nice little boat.
 
Bob

At the lower right side of your entry it says, "like this".  How could anyone not like this?   She's well done and beautiful.
 
Bob

We don't talk about that in nice circles.
 
Bob

She's really looking good.
 
Bob

At the lower right side of your entry it says, "like this".  How could anyone not like this?   She's well done and beautiful.
 
Bob

Now the building is almost completed. I'm going to put on the deck of a few bunches of firewood. And I need to come up anything with the stopper and the stand.
And now you can see few total photos of the model

Well, she's finished!  Not yet on a stand or in a case, but finished.  I completed the sidelights last Monday and fitted them in the shrouds and did a bit of tidying up around the model and that was it.
 
I'm not sure what will happen to her now, but for the moment she'll remain in the model makers' display case at the museum as we currently have an exhibition on pearling showing.
 
Thanks to all those who have encouraged me over the course of the build.
 
Here a few photos.
 
John
 
 

Part 3 – The Keelson


 
After a lot of time spent researching Kathryn and drawing the plans needed to start the build – it’s finally time to make some wood dust!


 
Kathryn’s keelson is a massive timber, consisting of two parts secured by a scarf joint.  The individual frames are mortised into the keelson, and a slot for the centerboard runs down the middle of the keelson.  The keelson is 16” wide and the height varies, decreasing towards the aft of the boat.  The bottom of the keelson below the level of the bottom of the frames is only 8” wide.  Following are a few cross-sectional views from the HAER drawings to illustrate the keelson:


 



 
The first step was to make the two main parts of the keelson.  After gluing the drawings of the two parts to the appropriate stock, these parts were cut out and sanded to the lines using the disk sander and the elliptical sander (for any inside curves).


 

 

These pieces were joined at the scarf and glued, using the clamping arrangement shown.  A piece of plate glass was used to ensure that the keelson was straight.
 

 

The next step was to form the narrow bottom of the keelson.  This would be best done on the milling machine, but an approach for cutting along the curve of the keelson was needed.  I fabricated a ‘table’ for the milling machine with a peg located in the table.  (I saw this in use on another build log – a great idea)




 
By keeping the keelson stock pressed against the peg, it was possible to follow the curve of the keelson with the milling cutter.  Light cuts were progressively made on each side of the keelson until the proper depth was reached.



 

The following photo shows the milled bottom of the keelson.
 

 

The next task was to cut all of the mortises for the frames in the keelson.  Since the keelson sits on an angle, a jig was developed to ensure that the frame mortises were perpendicular from the waterline.  This jig simply consisted of a piece of wood with the top cut at the appropriate angle.
 



 

This jig was positioned against two machine screws in the tooling plate to ensure that it was horizontal, and the keelson was clamped against this jig.  A laser center-finder was used to check that the mortises would be vertical.
 



 

The mortises were then cut on both sides of the keelson (the drawing of the keelson was mirrored and pasted to the port side after initial shaping of the keelson).  All of the mortises are 2” deep.


 

The ends of the mortises were rounded because of the shape of the milling cutter.  These were then squared off using a knife and a small chisel.



 

When reviewing the photos from the recent rebuild, I was able to see that the forward end of the keelson was rounded to the depth of the narrow keelson bottom.


 

 

A rotary tool with a medium stump cutter was used to form this end of the keelson.

 

 

The bearding line is very pronounced at the front of the keelson (shown as the dark line bordering the mortises in the above photo).  The keelson was shaped to this line, again using the stump cutter.


 

 

Finally, the forward 12” of the keelson tapers from its 16” width down to 10” – this was done on the disk sander.


 

 
 

 

So the keelson is now fully formed.  Next up is to cut the centerboard slot, begin installation of the keel, inner stem, and stem knee.


 
Thanks everyone!

Michael, you're doing a beautiful job.  And thanks for the Tyne Ship website, I'll have to build one.  One of these days. 
 
So many to build, so little time.  Ah, what is a boy to do?
 
Bob