captainbob

Looking at the workmanship of the rest of the boat, I'd say this builder knows exactly what he is doing.
 
Bob

Go ahead and eat your humble pie if you want, we will still praise your work.  Well done.
 
 
Bob

Go ahead and eat your humble pie if you want, we will still praise your work.  Well done.
 
 
Bob

Another small update.
 
Here is the window framing and fake panel. Still needs some clean up, but once it is painted, it should be presentable.
 
Russ

First, I have to say that this has been one of those Builds that is hard to put down, Today I decided to make and install the decks, First I sealed up the forward compartments , Then I cut out the Decks and the Camber strips for on top of the bulkheads wich the deck will sit on, that way the deck will flow properly. Once the deck pieces fit to satisfaction they were glued into posistion . I then faired the deck with the Hull , and did a final Fairing . Now the exterior and deck are ready to be sealed with West System epoxy . I then dry fit the Coamings that were made yesterday , I still have not cut the sheer into them yet, The Coamings will be installed when I get to the finishing stage and at that time I will cut in the sheer . I wedged a peice of scrap to hold the Coamings snug and in place. Here are the results

when I finished doing the deck planking on the United States build........a thought occurred to me.  I haven't finished the fore and aft planking on the Syborn!   ohhhhh.......don't tell me I just cut up the rest of the planking for her!  I took her out of the closet and had a look, and then a sigh of relief.........I had used the darker Annegre on her!   the Annegre comes in two different hues.......a lighter and a darker color.......I have {had} a package of both.   after I was done rejoicing that I didn't  'starve' the build,  I figured.......what the heck......I'll plank the fore deck......and perhaps the aft deck too!   might as well........she's on the table  

I hope for good wind and a larger pool.
 
Bob

Thank you all again for your kind comments and likes. You made me feel inspired enough to find time to do a bit more!
 
I have made and fitted the first strake of planking either side of the keel. This is the first time I have attempted spiling of planking. So far it's OK... I have had to remake one strake through impatience, and the fit of each is not quite as perfect as I would like. The following photos show the garboard strakes being glued in place. I will post some more once I have several done.
 
  
 
The last photo shows the stern. You can see the ends of both strakes and the tick marks I put on the frames to define the widths of the planks. You can also see the stern planking, where I was a bit dim with the choice of wood! It's all cherry, but the first three planks are noticeably different in colour. I am hoping I can tone the variation down when I apply a finish.
 

 
In case anyone is wondering I emphasised the joints between planks by rubbing both edges with a 2B pencil before glueing them in position. I think it's reasonably subtle.
 
Another thing worth mentioning, since I don't remember finding this point made anywhere else, is how to measure the tick marks quickly and easily. Most people cut strips of paper to the length of the frame between the keel and the wale, which is what I did as well. However it is usually suggested that the next step is a diminishing grid: a 'fan' of lines drawn from a common point and with the other ends set out equally along a straight line. Sufficient line are drawn so that the number of gaps between lines is the same as the intended number of strakes of planking. The idea is that you lay your strip of paper across the grid at a position where the ends of the paper just touch the outermost parts of the fan. You then mark off along the strip the intersections between the lines of the fan and the edge of the strip. This gives you a strip subdivided equally by the number of strakes. It works fine, providing you keep your strip parallel to the line used originally to set out the fan ends. If you put the strip at an angle then the spacing will vary.
 
I prefer to use a simple sheet of lined paper - it can be graph paper with a square grid, but ordinary ruled notebook paper works just as well. You need to place your paper strip at an angle across the lines such that each end is exactly on a line and the number of spaces between the two lines at the ends of the strip equals the number of strakes. then mark off the intersections as before and the strip will be evenly divided. Both methods are similar, but my method is quicker, because you don't need to make the diminishing grid, and there is a little less opportunity for error.
 
Rob

Today I worked on making the cockpit coamings . First I finished installing the cockpit coaming backing on the fore and aft bulkheads. I then cut out the rear deck bracing ( as per plan ) Now the coaming's are the tricky part, there is no detail on the construction plan . ( other than the sheer profile ) I first made a template out of card board with the measurement s that were provided to me by the construction plan. I decided that my coamings would also act as the seat back, so my board would have to be wide . once the template was close I transfered it on 1/16" ( wich scales out perfect ) Material, soaked them in alcohol for 2 hours and bent them close to there location.( The coamings will be installed after the deck is on )  I left the top of the coamings tall, so that when the deck is on it will be easier to scribe the sheer ( because of forward deck camber makes it tricky at the transition point )Here are the results

Coil making jig.  It wasn't so much the making of the coils, it was placing them that gave me problems.  I think the resulting fiturative knots were way too big, but otherwise theywould have come undone...evenwith a soaking of diluted white glue.  I will puruse the forum for better examples of doing this next time. 
 
    Fortunately, this is a pretty simple rig.  I can ony imagine a square rigger.

Later that same night......
 


 
    I thought I would post these, but later decided not to because I would have more up to date pics.  <not>  The build goes on at a fast pace, but the photgrapher appears to be on vacation.  I hope to have some pictures later today
 if, for nothng else, to keep me off page 4.
 
    What started as a simple build has become quite cluttered.  Alot of knots and alot of rope coils (non perfect version).  While I am pressed for time, I need to remember to let the glue dry before moving on. 
 
    Critical at this point isto remember to perspective of the rig.  How would that block be rigged and how would that belaying pin be tied off by people ON the ship, not what is easy for a modeler OUTSIDE the ship.  Thankfully I have a good supply of tweezers, forceps and mini alligator clamps.   Film at 11.
 
   
 

Just a few pics with the woodwork in travel mode.
 

 

 

 

Thanks for the reply, Russ. That makes sense.
 
I tried my first hatch cover in walnut. I really didn't like how it turned out. So, onto the scrap pile it went. Next, I built up another out of basswood. This time I remembered to slightly bevel the edges of the slats to be able to see the separation between them. I built the cover on a piece of paper to hold it together. I thought I'd paint the cover the same light gray as the bulwarks. Also, I found some pics online of hatch cover handles. They're from a liberty ship, but I really liked the concept. They made a round hole and then countersank a brass rod across the hole for a handgrip. I decided to go with this. After the paint cures, I may do a little bit of a dark wash over the cover to accentuate the lines. It all looks a little too clean.
 
Thanks for looking!
 
Steve

Hi Russ, thats the fun part. ( to get it from your head to the model )
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Pete:
Thanks. I am also curious to see if I can get the idea from my head onto the model.
 
Russ

Sam:
Thanks. Yes, the recesses will be windows. The deck house window unit usually had two panels that slide back and forth in the window frame. What I will do is to place a panel in the recess about half the length of the window opening to represent one panel. The solid wall panel will then represent the second sliding panel. A window will be placed around the opening and the entire thing painted. That should give the illusion of a fully functional window unit.
 
Michael:
Thanks for looking in.
 
Russ

Alright an update.  I've made some discoveries with the pirate sloop that helped this build immensely.  I kept the hull and stared at it during my past build.  I kept thinking the hull is good and it would be a real shame to discard it.  I was able to get most of the excess glue off and replace the main mast.  Then using paint brush bristles like I did for the pirate sloop I recreated the upper portions of the mast.  I like the look much better and they bend well.  I'll be getting back to ratlines again.  I'm thinking though of doing them differently.  I had more success with my Bounty making the ratlines off ship and gluing them on all at once.  That maybe a better method for this scale.  I think I will also leave off the upper shrouds.  They will be hidden by the sails anyways.  So the build is back on.  
 
   

Looking at the workmanship of the rest of the boat, I'd say this builder knows exactly what he is doing.
 
Bob

Here is a small update.
 
I have completed the shell of the deck house. It has planked sides and roof with false openings for windows on the sides and an opening for the door and sliding hatch on the aft side. There is still some fitting to do around the bottom edges of the house.
 
Feel free to comment and ask questions.
 
Russ
 
 

Thank you Russ, The seats were made off the model then installed .This is the first model that I have tried this on,so scale was not that important ( it just had to look good ) I made the caulking a bit dramatic to see how it would look overall. Its all a just learning process ,and Its alot of fun.
 
Best Regards,
Pete

When the Lettie was discovered after being abandoned the masts, bowsprit, and the windlass had been taken off the boat and mostly disassembled so I am not completely sure this is the correct windlass.  I got this design from Chapelle’s “The American Fishing Schooner”.  I think it will do.  It is mounted on a temporary base and I will be taking it all apart and painting some of the parts before mounting it on the boat.  I have to admit I had a lot of fun with the linkage.  I wish I had kept time on this I figure somewhere between 12 and 20 hours.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Bob and J and Bindy (and welcome back, Bindy). I'm working on the hatch right now. I've completed the coaming. I made it out of maple and finished it bright. Then I made the lower part out of lime wood and finished it with green paint. I've yet to make the hatch covers--I need to post some questions I have about those, but I'll do that later. J recommended a company called Scale Hardware. I bought some dome-headed rivets from them. The smaller ones I used to pin the corners of the coaming. The bigger ones I used on the strip in the bow bordering the breasthook. I used Brass Black from Birchwood Casey to darken the rivets. I found that a quick dip in naphtha followed by Brass Black applied with a Q-tip darkened them up nice and quick. The coaming isn't glued down yet. Thanks for looking!
 
Steve
 

She's coming along nicely.
 
Bob

I would like to Thank you all, For your intrest and the likes , its inspiring
 
Hi Michael, I looked at Tonis build ( for the louvers ) I am going to try that out . it looks fairly simple . I think your right, that kind of system might work. I to this day would still love to have a full sized one, They are so nice to sail, ( I sailed a 12 1/2 a few times, I did not want it to end ) and they are very easy on the eye's  
 
Hi Richard, Thank you, she is comming together nicely, I am also building the original 12 1/2 ( Cap't Nates ) as a proto-type the link is in my signature.
 
Hi Nils, Thank you for the kind words, I like the Herreshoff Designs ( deffinatly a dreamboat ) They are Amazing boats to sail as well
 
Best Regards,
Pete
 
I just had to add this photo

6 down 3 to go !
 
With a static model you have to leave all your ropes long enough to tie off but with working running rigging I have cord everywhere, they all have to be long enough to run the travel of the sail plus the height of the mast plus enough to run the length of the ship.
 
Good thing I know what each of them are for.