jud
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Wouldn't have something to do with a hippie stranded on an island would it? jud
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Dark Colored Glue
jud replied to Kenneth Powell's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Sure. jud -
Dark Colored Glue
jud replied to Kenneth Powell's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Tone and wrong assumption. I apologize. jud -
Miss Henrieta Pole of Ontario, a Rudderless lady. jud
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Wrapper ropes (Serving Machine)
jud replied to Romanov's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Looks good. I like the way you are feeding the thread, it looks like you have incorporated feed tension control. nice work. jud -
Wrapper ropes (Serving Machine)
jud replied to Romanov's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Looks good. Were it me, one of the ends would be made to slide, the cross shaft could be made with a flat or other system to allow for that. The spool would be mounted further from the work and there would be some friction devices in the feed path. From the thought and quality reflected in your device, I would bet you are already thinking about those refinements. Question, do those composition gears have self lubricating properties? jud -
Dark Colored Glue
jud replied to Kenneth Powell's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Those filled V's between planks would provide a uniform and consistent result on a flat surface. With a concave or convex surface, the width of the resulting fill area would become wider or narrower dependent on the rate of change along the curved parts of the hull you are planking. You may be able to minimize that by beveling the 4 external right angles of the plank, looking at an end view each side would look like a flat ended point. With each edge being an inverted V the distortion should be minimal, depending on how the flat point of the V between planks lined up. From what I have seen in build logs it seems that the best way to obtain matching and uniform planking is to force a match between planks by sanding or other controlled wood removal method, testing often as you go. Someone with more experience with planking needs to jump in here. jud -
Dark Colored Glue
jud replied to Kenneth Powell's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Larry; Assume the resulting V would be outboard. The spacing would only be uniform on flat areas of the hull, a curve either way would result in opening or closing the open V which would appear as uneven spacing of the planking. Could take time to vary your open V but I doubt it would ever look good. jud -
The ship was real, you can go aboard her at San Diego as well as the Star of India. I remember the Star lying at a dock with the tops down, a sad sight while in the Navy in the early 60's, went aboard her in 78 while still being restored. The term is touch hole or vent, some wick holes are found on oil lamps, "kerosene", in a rectangular shape with a wick advancing device as part of the mechanism, have several we use when the power goes out, takes about a minute to get at least 2 going, keep matches with them, all on a shelf in the living room. jud
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First cannon I made and fired was constructed from a 3/4" pipe. Smokless powder from shotgun shells was the propellent. When I finally got the powder burning after many tries, I was very close to the thing, started out behind a log reaching over it. When she went, she spit in my eye, the ball bearing projectile rolled out of the barrel and fell on the ground. Had time to shut the eye so a few small sore spots was all I suffered. Black powder spit a little higher from my home grown artillery but had limited distance, moving gas after being released from containment doesn't go far, regardless of it's peak starting pressure. jud
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popeye2aea, mousing the hook, another term forgotten, thanks for posting it. Have read someplace that the side tackles were left on the guns when firing, with the free end flaked out on deck so it could run with recoil, mousing the hook would have been needed to keep the hook on the ring. We moused the hooks on the boat falls of LCVP's, those hooks were a toggle design with a hole for a line at the end of the toggle. That setup allowed for the threading of the line through the hoisting ring at the end of the hoisting cables in the boat and pulling the hook in place rapidly. jud
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Interesting anchor line arrangement. Otherwise very nice work. jud
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I bet a good head knife would do an excellent job used with your guide and measure system. You run the head knife along your guide while applying as much pressure as needed, should end up with a clean cut, even in heavy woods at planking thicknesses. jud
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Belaying to knightheads and timberheads
jud replied to Landlubber Mike's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Would a couple of turns and a half hitch hold the line? No knots to kink the rope and quickly and easily cast off, the coil could then be hung as preferred. jud -
Mahuna. I address this to you and posted it here because It might be something that others will find useful, not only as a polish but as a blade finishing tool. Jewelers rouge is something I use, it has been the ruby colored stick which is very fine, just picked up a green colored stick of rouge at a Saddle Makers show to try, recommendation of a knife maker who said it was more aggressive than the ruby colored rouge, haven't fixed up a board for the green yet. For the ruby rouge I shaped a 1" X 4" pine board so it had a handle with a hole and a leather thong for hanging, it is about 12" long, used contact cement to glue a piece of saddle skirting leather on and rouged her up. I made it for head knives and also swivel knives but other blades find their way to it for a final edge polish which seems to reduce friction for a cleaner and an easier to control cut. jud
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I see I spelled it wrong, if you really wish to know, type in "smithy mill" on your browser. You will find much more than I could ever tell you. jud
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Much more expensive, but you can do much with a Smithy. Plenty of attachments and tooling available, if you need the high speed, mount your Dremel on the tool holder or mill whichever will provide the motion needed. I do have a table to get the work closer to the mill that mounts on the cross slide. Not a production machine, but I'm not into producing anything except for my own use. More machine than needed for hobby work, depends on your view. With it, some molding sand, a heat source, patterns and mold boxes you can easily produce any tools or simple machines that you could ever want. Make your castings from aluminum and mill it on your smithy. jud
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For instant running, flaking or the forming a balentine of overlapping coils would be workable, leaving either one lying on deck, over time, they would probably get fouled. jud
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Marlin is what we used for seizing s, it was lightly tared. Someone on this board said it was Stockholm Tar. Was not sticky unless hot but was a bit tacky, you could smell the tar. It was a loose twisted line kind of a tan color. jud
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Good experiment for the wood you are using, thin and cutting quickly should result in light charring. From what I have seen on this board, bulkheads appear to be charred much more, probably because of the increased thickness and more durable woods or as some shown in build logs are made from plywood. Charcoal would make a poor joint, If just discolored by heat but not charred, might be fine as is, a light sanding to remove any loose material would be good insurance. jud
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Have a Smitty 3 way Midis. Also have an 8" Rotary Table that I plan on making into a divider head with some add on home built attachments. Probably have everything I could need for model building and the means to make fixtures I might need for that hobby. jud
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Me too. jud
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The loop over the pin would be a guide on which side should be up if dropping the coil on deck, get the wrong side up and what a tangled weave we would make, get the right side up and the line would run off the coils without kinks or twisting. jud.
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Bill check out the arts departments of your local Universities and Collages, many teach bronze casting, along with having a lab equipped to do small runs. They usually will work with people needing castings and because your ship building can be considered an art they should be friendly. Might even work out some trading, offer to make some presentations of your work and techniques. jud
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If you cast them, cast them with trunnions. You could make the patterns and take them to a foundry that will cast in brass or a malleable bronze. The foundry castings would allow you to, after drilling the bores, to load and fire the things, a filament ignition device should be easy to make. Why have guns, if you can't shoot the things? jud
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