jud
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Everything posted by jud
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The people buying those things don't really care or know, all they want is a display piece. Only problem I see is there are no disclaimers about historical accuracy that is obvious but I bet they are there someplace. They fill a nitch or they wouldn't be in business. jud
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From HMS Victory Modlers Knowledge Repository and Forum This may answer your question Bosun. http://southseas.nla.gov.au/refs/falc/0487.html 5th. Run out your guns. " With the tackles hooked to the upper-bolts of the carriage, the gun is to be bowsed out as close as possible, without the assistance of crows or handspecs; taking care at the same time to keep the breeching clear of the trucks, by hawling it through the rings; it is then to be bent so as to run clear when the gun is fired. When the gun is out, the tackle-falls are to be laid along-side the carriages in neat fakes, that when the gun, by recoiling, overhauls them, they may not be subject to get foul, as they would if in a common coil. Cheers, Maurice hope no rules are broken by this, if so I or the moderators will remove this post. jud
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Go over to the Victory site and look at their gun deck section. jud
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Don't think you will find any perfectly square stock, if that is what you want to turn square stock center a best you can oversize stock and the rounds will end up centered. You could drill a hole at the center and use a center in your headstock and clamp up the chuck or better yet turn it with a dog on a faceplate. jud -
You can chuck round stock, as centered as you can, place a pencil on the tool holder and turn on the lathe. Slowly advance the pencil until it makes a mark, turn off the lathe and look at the mark, it will be on the high side, adjust the chuck, repeat until you reach the precision you want. jud
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Mike Y, sounds like you have a dust collector on that belt sander, if so, that's where the dust will be. jud
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No, but I will be eating a fowl sandwich later today. jud
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Using the proper sauce, the correct amounts at the right intervals you can cut your work in half. With the correct use of that sauce every plank will look like two, don't worry about it, just use it and double your progress. Cheers jud
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Michael: Like your Case Hardening method, probably give it a try using charcoal. Do you leave the oxidation on for all dips or do you re-polish each time? Drill rod is great stuff and I have found Key way stock is be handy for milling small items. Color is what has been used for a long time to determine temperature, the reason you found the forges in a dark corner in blacksmith shops. jud
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Any tips what do do with the loose ends of the tackle on my Shamrock? That was the question. Those little flat coils are obviously the accepted norm in modeling, it is not the norm aboard a working vessel. If your model is intended to portray the way it was, within your ability to model the available reference material, then it only makes sense to me that how the rope is made up would seem to have some importance. How others deal with their rope is their right, it won't effect me other than I'll notice obvious deviations from how it was done when I look at their work. That doesn't prevent me from admiring the work, skill and knowledge the model probably reveals. jud
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Those coils are decorative only and a poor way to deal with any line, keep them off of the deck by hanging them on a pin rail or something, if you need to prepare them for running, flake them down or lay them out. Never liked to see those flat coils of line on the decks of any model. I have never seen them on the decks of the ships I rode except as decoration on the Quarter Deck or on a Knot Board. jud
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Krulzelpuntz: http://www.castem.co.jp/lostwax/e-tech.html. Just one site that will show and explain the process much better than I could ever do, you will see that the tree is only a structure built from the wax patterns themselves, all joined together so one pore will fill them all. I would think that the method could be adapted to using resin, might require an injection device or a large sprue so the mold can be filled from the bottom to prevent voids. Casting metal guns, just as casting resin guns can be rewarding in itself, it also is knowledge that could be applied to other needs. Have read that molten metal, pored into a sand mold was the plastic for the world for hundreds of years and castings still are produced in great numbers. Few small foundry's have survived, but the means and reference material for an individual to produce their own casting, still exists. jud
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If the rigging has deteriorated to the point of falling apart, I doubt that you can do anything with it. Was that model exposed to the sun, the ultra violet light from the sun will break down almost anything over time. Get some rigging books and enough rigging line to replace all of it and present the package to your son. If he values the model he will re-rig it or find someone who can do so and look for other things that may need attention. He may even pass it along with the rigging items to one of his kids that shows interest. jud
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The lost wax process produces very good castings, you make one mold to produce the wax patterns, you then can produce as many wax patterns as you want. To create a mold from those wax patterns you build what is called a tree using your wax castings and connect them all together with wax runners and risers in a manner that will all fill the whole mold and vent the air out. There needs to be cavity's in the mold that allows for enough mass so the desired castings can draw molten material from, to fill any voids created because of the faster cooling of the smaller castings. When the tree is completed you build the real mold around the tree, when made, you melt the wax out of the mold. You can produce 10 or more cannons per pore this way. Jewelers use the lost wax process because it creates very detailed and sharp castings if the final mold material allows for that, often two mixes are used, fine material against the wax, usually brushed on, and a courser mold body. jud
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You can melt aluminum, if memory serves at about 1300°F, iron and brass is about 2100°F.. You can get a pot of aluminum to liquify by using charcoal or gas as a fuel, the web has much info on sand molding and furnaces. You are thinking along the same lines as myself about casting the guns, using castings you can cast the trunnions in, that is a big plus to me. What is running around the back of my mind is casting them using the lost wax method, maybe I will need to go to the art department at some college, that does bronze figures, they probably use induction furnaces. jud
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Have used belt dressing on slipping belts on farm equipment, comes in a spray can. What I would probably do is obtain a belt that fits loose, put together an idler pulley that is spring tensioned and use it only when using the ropewalk, since it is spring loaded, remove the belt from the idler for storage. The spring tensioned idler would maintain tension on the belt even if the belt expanded from heat or stretch when in use. Should not be difficult to fabricate such an idler. jud
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Seizing or whipping a line. Here is how I have done it.
jud replied to Modeler12's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
A half hitch will hold it, two will hold the world. There is a saying I heard years ago, similar to that, don't remember just how it went. I would bet that I heard it from an old Bow swan Mate on the Ammen who was killed in the 1960 collision. I have found that Half Hitches if kept under tension and the bitter end is secure, will hold almost anything. jud -
Frames vs Bulkheads
jud replied to captainbob's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
It is free choice and what the individual preference is, guides the choice of methods. jud -
Can see several uses for it for different applications, should be a useful tool in any shop. Because of the way it would be used and the environment it would create when used, I would want some very good sealed bearings that are easy to change. Perhaps a shop Vac system would make it nicer to be around. jud
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Bees wax is used in saddle making and other leather work. When sewing the sheepskin on the skirting the hair fibers will catch in the waxed thread and make a mess by pulling the hair through the skirting, also makes it very hard to pull the stitching tight. I read about using beeswax as usual except when sewing the sheepskin, for that use a small piece of canvas, tie one end of the waxed thread to something stable and burnish the waxed thread using the canvas, it heats the thread,and polishes it allowing it to pass through the sheepskin without picking up the fibers, I have done it, it works, which leads me to believe that burnishing the rigging lines would also have some good results for sealing the line and controlling fuzzes. jud
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No Floyd, didn't know about the Portland club.Thanks for the heads up. jud
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Epoxying both sides might be fine for a static model, I wonder if it would be wise on a hull you intend to sail. You seem concerned that the outer coating may not seal the hull, reason for the insurance of coating the inside. If you seal both inside and outside and there is a leak on the wet side, water will penetrate into the planking and be trapped, causing blisters and rot. With an unsealed interior, any water that penetrated could escape from the planks and ribs. jud
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Some Auxiliary and support ships still had open 5"38 mounts when I was in, 59-68. I rode a Fletcher Can with single mounts as the main battery and our 3" 50's were open mounts like we had on the Helena except the Helena's 3" guns did not have the fire control radar antenna on the mount. The Helena did have twin 5" 38s as a secondary duel propose battery, she like the Ammen had all of the 40MM guns removed and replace with 3" guns. Those 40's were very good guns when used on the rivers of RVN. Both the water cooled twins and the air cooled single mounts were used, we kept a fire hose in the water tanks of the twins, without that cooling water those guns would blow hot water and steam all over us. jud
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The only 5"38's, twin or single, without the Gun Caption blast shield that I have seen were open mounts. 5" 38's were double porpoise guns and often were placed where an adjacent gun blast would make the Gun Caption observation of where the gun was pointed intermittent and difficult. We did have stop firing cams which opened the firing circuit if the gun was pointing at any topside structures, but they were not set up to interrupt the firing if a neighboring gun waved it's barrel into the line of fire, hence the Gun Captions head sticking out so he could keep track of what was in front of his gun. Doubt that those hoods were removed from any guns mounted on commissioned ships, were it me, I would include the shields on Mounts 51 and 52. jud.
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Household Ammonia
jud replied to Q A's Revenge's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Would an application of linseed oil bring the life back. Used it on a foot long birch bark canoe model that some relatives had acquired in the early 1900, it was badly dried out and brittle, the linseed oil brought it back. I use it on outdoor tool handles and it darkens the ash handles. jud
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