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Kurt Johnson

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Everything posted by Kurt Johnson

  1. Kurt Johnson
    Paul, I believe Starrett makes those. Kurt
  2. Kurt Johnson
    Michael, I really love you’re craftmenship. And I REALLY, REALLY love your new workshop! It must be so easy to lose track of time there. Especially on a rainy or snowy day, some good music playing...... Kurt
  3. Kurt Johnson
    I have the Grobet jeweler’s saw and the no way compare. You have much more control with the Knew Concept. Kurt
  4. Kurt Johnson
    Yeah. It’s the best! I posted about it a few months ago. Just search knew concept ( I don’t know how to link it to your thread). I don’t have the space for my power tools at the moment. I used to really suck when using a coping saw or jewelers saw. With the Knew Concept it’s easier than a scroll saw. Its super light and well balanced, and easy to tension correctly. It is pricey, but it is a great tool. There is a fatter aftermarket handle for it that really is way too expensive. I may wrap the handle it comes with sticky tape like you would use on a hockey stick. Kurt
  5. Kurt Johnson
    Thanks wefalck, That's a starting point and makes a lot of sense. Kurt
  6. Kurt Johnson
    There are so many people at MSW that have intimate knowledge of so many different things. Anyone have a specific knowledge of paper as a medium (media?). My question is about the most likely best type of paper to use for my experiment. I did a quick search about paper modeling, but most seems to be about using card stock as a material. I want to model in 1/64 scale. The paper should I think be a hot press type to have a smooth surface. The initial coat of paint would be airbrushed acrylic, so it would be fairly dry I think when it contacts the paper. This is the look I would like to achieve. Kurt
  7. Kurt Johnson
    Jaager, Same goes for me. If I can ever get to that point to begin with. Kurt
  8. Kurt Johnson
    This was put out there to see if it had been done. I had forgotten about Philip Reed.I have had next to no time actually modelling for the last several months, so experimenting won’t be anytime soon. I was thinking you could use paper meant for painting on. If you airbrushed the piece of paper before it is cut into plates I would doubt it would wrinkle. Once given a sealing coat after they are all in place, poly or acrylic wax like Pledge, you’re only dealing with the top coat for any additional painting. It would also help bond everything. As far as thickness goes I’d have to see what was available. Maybe even silkspan could be used. In the end the cost might be the same. The look might be better. Manipulating the individual plates in placement I think would be easier. Timewise, who knows, but the final look is the goal. It might look like garbage. I think someone like Paul Budzik, would attempt the whole process with paint alone, not even bother making the plates. Wouldn’t need to worry about thickness then. Kurt
  9. Kurt Johnson
    I was thinking of some kind of archival paper that can be painted like the art suppliers carry. I think there would be less chance of them coming loose using PVA. Then seal them with wipe on poly or Pledge or Future Floor Wax like the armor guys do. Then you could also do washes like they do then. I honestly think they might outlast the rest of the model. They would outlast me for sure. Kurt
  10. Kurt Johnson
    I don’t know if this is heresy. Has anyone at MSW coppered a hull with paper? I was thinking from a scale appearance, it might appear more subtle and be easier to control than real copper. I would think it would be much easier adhere to the hull. You could prepaint them in several slightly different shades of “old penny”. Then you could dry brush highlights after they’re in place. I wouldn't simulate nails as they really wouldn’t be seen, and really make the area too busy IMHO. I’ll have to experiment. The plastic guys come up with some pretty amazing stuff, so why not us? Unless its important to the builder that its real copper. A lot of other parts on our ships are not made of the real thing. Kurt
  11. Kurt Johnson
    Jen, Each one gets better than the last. And the first one was good. Kurt
  12. Kurt Johnson
    Mike, Everything you create is a piece of art. Kurt
  13. Kurt Johnson
    Hang in there, Frank! I don’t know what you’re dealing with but I understand. I have some things of much greater priority at the moment also. I hope things workout for the best.
  14. Kurt Johnson
    Okay, so from a "working" standpoint its a milling issue. I can't recall the last point I worked with centercut wood, but it would be less of an issue? Kurt
  15. Kurt Johnson
    I had looked it up and couldn't find any mention of it. It will matter planing, carving and on any part of the board no matter how long it is. There are some trees, where the grain spirals, like a rope. A tree grows from its very top, adding new growth on top of older. That's why if some foreign object is stuck in it, the object will always the same height off of the ground no matter how tall the tree grows. I would think everything would be laid out consistently throughout the tree. I guess if you marked the top end of a log before its milled, you would find out the answer. I'm sure one of our engineer buddies here would know. I never gave it a thought before but some one has to have. Some trees are fairly consistent in width and I think there are less tubules and fibers as the trees get taller and thinner. Those areas will increase in girth with age and add more with time. It's not important but its one of those things that now I want to know now. I have to figure how to word my search, to stumble upon the answer.
  16. Kurt Johnson
    I’ve been working with wood for over 50 years, basic carpentry, fine (sorta) wood working, carving and here ship modeling, and a thought popped into my head (a rare occurrence, kind of hurts a little) when planing a piece of wood. Maybe everyone else in the world knows this except me. When working with or against the grain ( not cross grain) how does that relate to the direction the tree grows? I never thought about it before, just worked with the grain when ever possible. If I had to guess, I’d say working with the grain is working in direction towards the top of the tree. I spent a hour or so on line, reading wood working stuff, logging, wood mills, forestry, wood physical structure, tree growth and didn’t find the answer. Maybe its so obvious they knew they didn’t have to mention it. I now know about 100 different things about the grain of wood. I was a bio major in college, took several botany classes. Maybe it was that one time I cut class. I just don’t know up from down. Kurt 🤥
  17. Kurt Johnson
    I would never use a scalpel for anything but very very fine work. The blades don’t have much strength and can snap. I really won’t use an xacto either. I have a number of wood carving knives that I use for any heavy duty chores. Kurt
  18. Kurt Johnson
    Ed, Thanks for the answer. I’m sure I’ll find the dust jacket, I put some place safe, but forgot where that was. I guess pretty soon I’ll be able to hide my own Easter Eggs. Kurt
  19. Kurt Johnson
    You can line the metal ones also. I usually put a piece of wood or cardboard between the wood surface and clamp when I use the metal ones or when I use C clamps too for that matter. I always thought the miniature wooded clamps would be nice to have. I really should try and make some. Kurt
  20. Kurt Johnson
    Sorry I must have have hit something by error. I was going to say Engineers or a very similar mindset. I'm not, but had learned the how to approach a task from their point of view. Which is funny because I have always done the opposite in my personal life. I'm just curious because, the results definitely shows that it works. As they say "inquiring minds want to know".
  21. Kurt Johnson
    Ed, I have a personal question to ask you, what was your profession before you retired? It may have been discussed before and if it had I missed it. It may have been on the dust jacket of your book, which I took off and can't find ( weird habit I have, I don't want the jacket to get torn, so instead it gets lost). Anyway I always wonder, if skills from a person's daily life transition into their model building life. Your meticulous attention to detail and the logically planned sequence approach to building individual segments of your models reminds me of the friends I have who are Engineers, or very simila .
  22. Kurt Johnson
    Ed, I’ve been following your builds and I have begun Vol 1 of the Young America and I know I’ll enjoy every page. I would rather read than watch TV and certainly love good fiction. But books like yours are my favorite. I got hooked on Longridge’s Victory and Cutty Sark books in he 1970’s, Underhill too, and read them several times each. Now its your turn. I have to save up for Vol 2 and 3. Thanks. Lottsa quality time coming up! Kurt
  23. Kurt Johnson
    Just an update on the scalple handle after using it a little bit I think its garbage. It looks cool but thats about it. The rear portion screws off, which it does by itself. It’s more cheaply made than a standard XActo. I did get the Bard Parker 371070. It is nice but it should be for a real scalple. They go for over $100 when new. Mine’s not, so $10 isn’t too bad. It will take a while to get used to the thinness where you hold it. As intended there would be no resistence when using so a very light touch would be fine. Using on wood, etc, I’m not sure yet how comfortable it would be trying to hold it more firmly. I guess you could put tape or silicone tubing where your thumb and forefinger would go. We’ll see. Kurt
  24. Kurt Johnson
    I’ve ordered one for myself to give it a try. Kurt
  25. Kurt Johnson
    I believe the other side is for blunt dissection. The flat ones are fine I've used them for many years at work. Anyway, it feels good and for that price. Oh and when I use the X-Acto I only use their Z blades. Kurt

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