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Kurt Johnson

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Everything posted by Kurt Johnson

  1. I just came across a new shape (to me) scalpel handle. I like to use scalpel blades in modeling and have tried different handles. I never liked the fat ergonomic ones. This is a number 3. It feels like an xacto handle. The best part its only 4.99 on eBay. An xacto feels like a natural extension of my hand after so many years. Kurt
  2. You’re an inspiration. Your metal work skills and all your other skills seem to go way beyond skills transitioned from bird carving (which I know is extremely demanding), but all this fiddly stuff. Your builds remind me of those guys in my father’s old model railroading mags from the 1940s and 1950s. Where the guy would take an old shovel, do this, then that to it. Took his Unimat and did this and that and behold a perfect replica of a .... I dreamed of the day I could get a Unimat and when I could, they where plastic Lego versions. I have a Sherline Lathe and Mill but still haven’t mastered them. Anyway you are a master model maker. If I ever grow up (which apparently isn’t going to happen, and time is running out) I would like to be like you. Kurt
  3. Frank, I hadn’t followed this from the beginning, but in the past several days I have rectified that. You have some seriously great modeling skills. Now I’m hooked. You set a high bar to b sure! Kurt
  4. I actually think it’s 3:1. I had noticed this giant inflatable hand laying in a corner of his shop under a tarp once. Now I finally know what that was for. Kurt
  5. Boy, that camera is your friend!! I’ve never seen a model look so clean and perfect. Not a smudge or scatch anywhere. Please tell me there’s a big pile of regects laying all over the floor. I don’t think a full sized boat would be able to look that fine. Kurt
  6. To be honest with you, I was wondering about also going a paper route. I was also considering just painting, with painting some plates subtlety different. The thought of things just falling off, doesn’t appeal to me. Although I might not be around to see it. Copper foil seems too darn bright! The aircraft guys come up with some really convincing finishes depicting individual metal plates. I don’t see why we can’t do it even better. Kurt
  7. Looking through Dick Blick artist supplies on internet I came across a product called Copper Leaf, which is the same as Gold Leaf but Copper (duh). I never knew it existed. Actually never gave it a thought. Has anyone used this in ship modeling? It comes in 5 1/2 inch square sheets.
  8. Looking real nice, Rich. I have always liked the Kate Cory. The camera can kinda brutal, but it always looks better in real life. Can’t wait to see how the whaleboats turn out. Kurt
  9. She’s coming along great. Your stuff always looks so darn neat and clean, even under close ups ( or are you photoshoping everything). It’s interesting to see the subtle differences evolving in your builds like the supports by the transom and stem on the build board. It’s gonna be fun when it’s ready for us. Kurt
  10. I would think they would have used clenched nails, with copper roves or clench rings on the real thing but, not nuts. Those could be made with a punch, and thin copper sheet if you actually wanted to. Not part of the kit of course. Kurt
  11. It was the Dark Titebond so it was kinda mocha color and cures brown, as for smell I don't remember any, its already in dumpster. I always score the surfaces with a new knife blade. Unfortunately in this particular instance I really can't clamp it, its too delicate, even for rubber bands. I usually try and peg joints some how with brass wire. I may end up trying to do that in the end. Thanks, Kurt
  12. I recently have been having a number of glue failures on the model I'm working, and have come to question the glue. It is Titebond 2, but its at least 2 years old, so maybe its shot. I went to Lowes to get new glue. I noticed that Titebond has Quick & Thick Multi Surface Glue. It says its a Thixiotropic PVA , titebond 2 is a cross linking PVA, not sure how that would effect what we do. Does anyone have any experience using it? It supposedly drys clear and has some gap filling properties, clamping time is half Titebond 2, 15 minutes and opposed to 30 minutes. I bought both. Any chemists among us have any thoughts? Kurt
  13. You do keep busy and have me drooling about this project. But then again, I’m always drooling ( so no big whoop!). The one up side is I get to hide my own Easter eggs!!! Seriously, I have been buying kits for a very, very long tme and have actually put some together. You have brought the possibilities of everyday modelers to more than several levels above what has generally been offered up until now. It is really very encouraging to see. I am going to follow the development of this very closely. It’s interesting watching how this evolves from thought to finished object. Keep us in the loop! Kurt
  14. I personally would like to see the long boat. Since I’m currently working on the Queen Anne barge it would be a nice addition, being the same scale and period. I definitely think it should be a small subject that could be completed in a reasonable amount of time. The amount of time required for say the Winnie and the space required, I would think be difficult to keep a group of people focused on to complete the project. Having it available as a starter package or as a complete kit would open the project up to a wider group of people. If someone wanted just the plans so they could scratch build it they could always go that route. I would be willing to pay for such a starter package or kit. I don’t see how anyone could expect not to. How much, depends on what it is. The cheapest kits are around $50 to $75 and that doesn’t buy very much. I would imagine it would be much better quality, so $100 to 150 wouldn’t be unreasonable. $75 for plans would also be reasonable. Something non military, like the sharpie or Michael’s pilot boat (not in 1/8, I don’t have the room) would be kinda nice. Kurt
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