Kurt Johnson
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Bent top frames
Kurt Johnson replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Oh, the sweep ports. Doh!!! Nevermind. Kurt -
Bent top frames
Kurt Johnson replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Okay, but what is happening to the right the left gun port here. Why isn’t that frame a normal one? That’s the part I don’t understand. Kurt
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What is the structural purpose of frames that have bent tops, like those seen in the Pegasus? Kurt
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Wow that was quick! I meant to the same level of visable detail as an Antscherl creation (I was trying to be sure I spelt his name correctly), if the builder.wants to take it there. Kurt
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Chuck, I still can’t figure out how you can be working on several projects at the same time from a design stand point. The fact that you can is great for us, but Pegasus is so much more important. Kurt
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B.E. I like your idea of assuring the moldings are both at the same height at the stern. I'll definitely do that this time around. Some solutions are so obvious once you see it done. I found the molding at the first gun port a nuisance the first time. This time I'll make in a single piece and remove the gun port section afterwards. I also thought the 1/64" rabbit was a little too small. After all that red paint covered over. I'll probably go a hair wider. I'm wondering how to treat the wales final thickness. It tapers in thickness until it's flush with the normal planking at the bow. I think Chuck realised it after in was in place and then sanded it to shape. I wonder if both the first and second layer should both be tapered or, just the first or the second. I sort of don't like the idea of the top layer feathering to nothing. Kurt
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You might be able to pretreat the windows with CA which would strengthen them quite a bit. This, though, would probably make removing the char very difficult. Maybe if you glued the windows to some file card as a bolster would help. Then you could sand the card away the card afterwards. Kurt
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B.E. I had 3 pieces of good boxwood in my stash from Hobbymill before he closed up shop, real quality stuff. So I spent the day reducing it to 3/64 inch for Cheerful planking. I should have done this from the beginning. I have to figure out if it will adhere to the bulkheads where I previously used CA or will need to be worked on to bond with PVA. I really like this model so there’s no hurry. So now I’m trailing behind you and can take full advantage of your interpretation of the Cheerful. I really like the approach you take to your models, both historically correct and very artistic at the same time. I’m looking forward to your next update. Kurt
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I don’t think I will use CA again for that purpose.. Everything came off with really almost no damage to the framework. Kurt
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Well, we are no longer at the same place. I decided to “deconstruct” all of the planking. I had used wood that a member of my club gave me because he wasn’t happy with it, now I know why. Besides that the planking wasn’t tight enough too much daylight showing. On the up side Jason at Crown Timberyard will be reopening for business in the middle of March, so I can finally have some decent wood. I just need to be patient. Also this was the first time I used CA for planking and it seems to come apart a lot easier than PVA. Kurt
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Hi B.E. We’re almost at the same point. Kurt H
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When you get to this point you really have to admire her shape. Funny your discussing the sub-decking, but for some weird reason I always enjoyed that part of a build. ( not reading about it, but doing it) I guess because it ties the entire thing together. Kurt
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I’ve read your builds, but I couldn’t recall whether or not you had used it. It was my first time and I am really pleased with it. It’s kind of funny that we use the Imperial system and you no longer do. When I was in college there was rumbles of going metric, but the excuse was retooling for industry would cost to much. Industry lobbies have a lot of clout. I can use both, but visually can guesstimate better in inches. I never could convert Celcius in my head though. Kurt
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Looking great. I just started the first plank above the wale.I highly recommend heat bending the planks with a hair dryer ala Chuck Passaro. It’s the first time I tried it and it worked like a charm! Best part is there isn’t any wait to use the plank. There are videos on MSW, under Chuck’s planking videos. Kurt
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Okay, I read it and as I understand it you can imput the basic info and can then tweak it and play with it until you have what you desire. I am not minimizing the time and work involved. It allows you to take basic building blocks from an image or plans, instead of pulling stuff from thin air. You can also then add additional information on top of this template. Did I get this correctly? Sorry Chuck. I am not trying to hijack this thread. Just trying to understand the process. I know a tiny bit of traditional old fart drafting and this stuff seems amazing. It really seems to let your ideas be transformed into a reality. Even to crank out multiple physical trials untill it is perfect. How long would that have taken ten years ago.Then take the result and turn it into a marketable product. It’s a great time to be in this hobby (except for obtaining wood for a reasonable amount of money.) Chuck. You’ve had enough of a rest, get back to work. Winnie, blocks, blocks, Pegasus, rope, rope, coffee, rope........ blocks, rope, coffee......
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Must feel good when you finally nail it. I meant can you input any starting info from a scan or something or do you have to start totally from scratch? I never did anything with a computer like that. Kurt
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What’s involved with taking Greg’s drafting and converting it to your needs? Or should that be in a totally separate thread? Kur
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I don’t mind the cheats as long as everything looks proper. I think the entire goal of the model is different. The purists can always do things as they see fit. Allowing for some simplifications allows more average modelers to have a good experience ship modeling. Would the “rivet counters” (borrowed from another hobby, and not meant in a derogatory way at all) even consider laser cut frames? Kurt
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Very innovative! This is going to be a fun model to build, one worth pulling out all the stops on. Maybe the lower hull exterior planking could be in maple, instead of holly like Greg’s. That’s not as pricy as far as I know. You’re allowed one Winnie update for every Pegasus. Kurt
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This may be a long process, but it’s coming along much faster that I would’ve thought. Considering you’re also working on the Winnie too, no sleep for you! Kurt
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I think its just a matter of preference. What ever you feel comfortable with. The next step is a 1/16 inch strip for molding just below the gun ports, that for some reason has me feeling a little apprehensive. Not sure why. Kurt
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